Headers installed - CEG Archives

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Done. Total time: 10 hours. 5 hours for the front which included a radiator replacement and oil cooler installation, and 5 hours for the rear. With the radiator out the front header was CAKE. The rear sucked, but that might be my impression because of how easy it was for me to do the front.

Some of those bolts are a PITA to get to, if you have small hands, you're blessed for work installing headers on a contour. Would've helped a lot. I left one bolt on the rear header only halfway screwed in because it got really tight and I was afraid to ruin the threads in the soft aluminum head, the other 5 bolts are nice and tight so I'm not going to worry about it so much. It was the one directly above the alternator. It was just not a good situation for that bolt.

All in all, haven't had time for impressions yet, but sure has a mean groul sound to it at low RPM/idle. I'll be breakin' them in nicely tomorrow and over the weekend

I sure am glad to have this job done and out of the way. Like really glad.

EDIT: jeez, forgot why I made this post in the first place; big thank you to everyone for the detailed information in the header install how-to, FAQ, and Weapon R headers thread (stazi's money saving EGR fix)!

Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
I left one bolt on the rear header only halfway screwed in because it got really tight and I was afraid to ruin the threads in the soft aluminum head, the other 5 bolts are nice and tight so I'm not going to worry about it so much. It was the one directly above the alternator. It was just not a good situation for that bolt.

I had the same problem with that same stud. When I took the nut off the stud came with it. Once I put the header back on that stud did not want to go back in, so I left it out. Haven't had any exhaust leaks yet so I wouldn't think that you would have any problem.

Hah to bad yo did them this week, im in almost done my header How-to

Glad it went problem free, and yes, the rear is a MAJOR PITA.

Originally posted by Tourige:
Hah to bad yo did them this week, im in almost done my header How-to

Glad it went problem free, and yes, the rear is a MAJOR PITA.

Do you include the MIL process in your How-To? because it could possibly help me out with some confusion in that process.

Originally posted by bradSVT:

Originally posted by Tourige:
Hah to bad yo did them this week, im in almost done my header How-to

Glad it went problem free, and yes, the rear is a MAJOR PITA.

Do you include the MIL process in your How-To? because it could possibly help me out with some confusion in that process.

the wiring?

Cause it should come with instructions.

I was going to make my own but got confused. Oh Well, hopefully I can figure something out in the next couple days.

Originally posted by bradSVT:
I was going to make my own but got confused. Oh Well, hopefully I can figure something out in the next couple days.

Thanks, I have seen that and figured I would do that. I am suppose to do that to which o2 sensors? I forget if its the ones off the headers or the y-pipe.

After the pre-cats, off the y-pipe.

Put the capacitor and resistor closer to the plastic connector to keep it as far as possible to keep it from the exhaust pipe.

Thanks for the help, I will do that.

The rear bank can be done very quickly if you loosen the front subframe bolts,remove the rear subframe bolts,and remove the rear motor mount.Doing this gives you plenty of room to remove the rear manifold.Remove the studs on the rear manifold so you don't have to remove the Alt.In order to maintain alignment, spray paint around each subframe mounting hole.I had access to the alignment pins from ford,but this will work too.

Originally posted by tsSVT:
The rear bank can be done very quickly if you loosen the front subframe bolts,remove the rear subframe bolts,and remove the rear motor mount.Doing this gives you plenty of room to remove the rear manifold.Remove the studs on the rear manifold so you don't have to remove the Alt.In order to maintain alignment, spray paint around each subframe mounting hole.I had access to the alignment pins from ford,but this will work too.

If you do it properly the rear is actually not that tough, its getting the socket on the bolts and the studs thats the hard part.

Originally posted by Tourige:
If you do it properly the rear is actually not that tough, its getting the socket on the bolts and the studs thats the hard part.

If you do it like DanG, it's really easy. He just pulls the engine.

Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:

Originally posted by Tourige:
If you do it properly the rear is actually not that tough, its getting the socket on the bolts and the studs thats the hard part.

If you do it like DanG, it's really easy. He just pulls the engine.

yes.... Easy....

Originally posted by Tourige:

Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:

Originally posted by Tourige:
If you do it properly the rear is actually not that tough, its getting the socket on the bolts and the studs thats the hard part.

If you do it like DanG, it's really easy. He just pulls the engine.

yes.... Easy....

Would you believe me (or him) if he says that that's a 4 hour job for him now?

Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:

Originally posted by Tourige:

Originally posted by Jeb Hoge:

Originally posted by Tourige:
If you do it properly the rear is actually not that tough, its getting the socket on the bolts and the studs thats the hard part.

If you do it like DanG, it's really easy. He just pulls the engine.

yes.... Easy....

Would you believe me (or him) if he says that that's a 4 hour job for him now?

lol, when doing all the headers is a 5 hour job for me (and ive only done it twice) ill bet its easier with the engine in the car.