Im looking into getting air intake for the tour, but im unsure what will give me the best performace. Ive been reading posts about both. cold air I would need to move the fuse box
Im not sure how that would go down i think that also invloves moving the battery too...
then I read about ram air, but it seems like its just sitting next to the engine, not really cold... I saw one site that had the ram air and like flexable plastic tubing that goes down into the wheel well. So any advice would be great!
How much work in involved in the cold air method? I dont mind doing alot of work, im more worried about being unable to finish it etc. since its how I get to school and hopefully work. all the pictures I have seen have had the battery and the fuse still in the engine bay, so im wonerding how that works out, and when they say relocate the fuse box, is there enough length in the wires to move it the 3-4 inches it needs to be moved?
i have not done it myself but i know someone who did it to his daily driver and while he called it a pita with proper planning you shouldn't have too much trouble.
check it out here.
people have had mixed experiences with ram air....Some people say the car stalls at high speeds, or at idle, and some say it works but shows little gain.
You best bet is to stick with GrandMasterKhans CAI system. PM him on the boards, he can explain to you everything you need to know about it.
Lupe
yes, ron took the words out of my mouth. GMK(grandmasterkhan) has fabricate the correct tubing to go from the uim to the fenderwell without relocating you fuse box or battery to teh trunk, unlike the cai tubing in the thread posted above.
Sweet!!! i PMed him so hopefully he'll respond to me. I so want my tour to be quick, so many haters...
You can always justify that to yourself by saying " i'll have better weight ditrubution!!!= better handling" anyways when GMK replys get back to use on the price of this thing. i just recieved my cc cai but depending on the price of his vs price/labor of this one i might get rid of this one....also didnt somebody have a cai that the piping ran from the tb straight down towards the bottom of the motor??? then you had to relocate your maf??
get the GMK cai extension from gmk on fastcougar.com. cc.com just stole the design and reproduced it
where does the snorkel on the SVT's get its air from i.e. where is the other end of the snokel end?
Wouldn't this be a CAI if you run an RU-3530 in a sealed box (the ol' rubbermaid gargage can everyone uses) which if done right could be sealed on the MAF on one end and sealed at the snorkel on the other end?
All the air would be forced to be sucked up through the snorkel aka cold air intake/ram air.
I'm looking at the engine bay, and how much there is to scoot the battery to the left and, there seems to be only an 1 inch, maybe a lil more. Would you guys recomend a diffrent battery that is smaller?? how much do those cost?? I've also seen a Ram air that has a plastic hose attachted to the end of the filter that goes down into the wheel well.
Originally posted by mygameisplatnum:
where does the snorkel on the SVT's get its air from i.e. where is the other end of the snokel end?
Wouldn't this be a CAI if you run an RU-3530 in a sealed box (the ol' rubbermaid gargage can everyone uses) which if done right could be sealed on the MAF on one end and sealed at the snorkel on the other end?
All the air would be forced to be sucked up through the snorkel aka cold air intake/ram air.
Any answers?
Just saw that setup personally, yesterday at our SC CEG meet.. looked pretty good, and would seem to work well.
So, yes, your theory is right, it can be done, but results are still not known.
Ray
Umm, that's the way it should be done. Remove the "silencer" (as people call it
), and seal yourself a K&N to the hood and fender. With out a heatshield it's generally a bad thing...This is how many of us have them.
I also see the term "ram air" being tossed around and absolutely nothing you guys have mentioned is remotely close to ram air.
i'll tell you from personal experience i did not like the GMK CAI. I felt like it would run out of breath at higher RPM's...and sure enough when i put the short ram back on i swear it was quicker! With the CAI it really did feel like the gears dragged out in the upper RPM range! Soooo...
I went to Home Depot and bought a trash can and made a heat sheild...and then i took one of my pipes from the CAI and stuck it in the hole that i cut, with the hole facing out of the front bumper. Then i took a metal box i found in my garage and cut it up. I then took a cereal bowl from my kitchen and cut it too fit inside the metal box. The bowl is like a funnel that forces and air into the tube which then forces air in the engine bay and take some pics of it and post them....
Originally posted by 99cougar:
i'll tell you from personal experience i did not like the GMK CAI. I felt like it would run out of breath at higher RPM's...and sure enough when i put the short ram back on i swear it was quicker! With the CAI it really did feel like the gears dragged out in the upper RPM range! Soooo...
I went to Home Depot and bought a trash can and made a heat sheild...and then i took one of my pipes from the CAI and stuck it in the hole that i cut, with the hole facing out of the front bumper. Then i took a metal box i found in my garage and cut it up. I then took a cereal bowl from my kitchen and cut it too fit inside the metal box. The bowl is like a funnel that forces and air into the tube which then forces air in the engine bay and take some pics of it and post them....
Dood..i have no idea what you said or could follow it but be sure to post pics of it if thats what u did.
I myself just bought a trash can from Wal-Mart and made a sealed box for my RU 3530 tonight. Man it was a PITA to make it so that it was sealed w/ my Pro Flow MAF and the snorkel. The hardest part is cutting the top and using the foam pipe isulation to seal w/ the hood. I haven't put it in yet so I'm not sure it if seals w/ the hood. I mean how can u tell if it seals perfect or not? The best way I could thnk of to cut was to draw a line that follows the top of the fender (where the hood hits the fender) on the one side and continue that line all the way around the garbage can. Hopefully this wrks well.
Anyone else do it differently?
i kinda figured it was all mumbo jumbo but yes i will try and post pics... i think it works really well when it is thirty degrees outside like it is today!
I've never understood the reasoning behind taking out the stock airbox, simply to make another one out of a Rubbermaid garbage bin...
I know you get a bigger filter and a slightly bigger "airbox", but I really don't see it being THAT much better than say a K&N drop in (in the SVT airbox), performance wise. It'll sound a lot better, but without major mods is the RU-3530's extra CFM's really necessary (over the E0998)?
I myself have the CF version of the GMK. I know it's not a perfect intake solution (with the bends before the MAF) but I feel as though it'll make the best numbers.
Originally posted by Bridge:
I've never understood the reasoning behind taking out the stock airbox, simply to make another one out of a Rubbermaid garbage bin...
I know you get a bigger filter and a slightly bigger "airbox", but I really don't see it being THAT much better than say a K&N drop in (in the SVT airbox), performance wise. It'll sound a lot better, but without major mods is the RU-3530's extra CFM's really necessary (over the E0998)?
I myself have the CF version of the GMK. I know it's not a perfect intake solution (with the bends before the MAF) but I feel as though it'll make the best numbers.
Well I personally have the Pro Flow 75mm MAF for the SVT attached to a KKM adaptor attached to a Ru-3530 so w/ these mods im getting considerable more air flow over stock. I also just finished making my sealed airbox to house evevrything that is attached to the snorkel. As far as horsepower increase goes w/ those mods....eh maybe 5 hrsp gain...but it can only be made better if chipped etc. Basically opens up the oportunity for more hrsp down the road. Plus allowing the engine to breath better is a plus.
Not to be rude, but its quite amusing reading about all these setups and claims, but no one has a dyno graph to back themselves up, so in reality, no one knows for sure if their setup is really working.
I know from previous cars, sticking a filter on the end of the MAF will loose you power,
A. from Hot air and B.Turbulence/Velocity.
A cold air, ie filter in the fender, will loose low end, but gain high end.
A. Ram air --true ream air, ie from bumper to throttle body will work better if correctly routed.
To be honest, unless some one can back themselves up, stay with a stock and drop in K&N.
Sorry but the "I felt a difference does not work!"
Originally posted by Arsenal:
To be honest, unless some one can back themselves up, stay with a stock and drop in K&N.
all the conflicing reports is why i have a k&n dropped into my stock box.
maybe one day when i have the time, money, desire and curiosity to burn perhaps i will settle this. then again, maybe not.
Originally posted by Arsenal:
Not to be rude, but its quite amusing reading about all these setups and claims, but no one has a dyno graph to back themselves up, so in reality, no one knows for sure if their setup is really working.
I know from previous cars, sticking a filter on the end of the MAF will loose you power,
A. from Hot air and B.Turbulence/Velocity.
A cold air, ie filter in the fender, will loose low end, but gain high end.
A. Ram air --true ream air, ie from bumper to throttle body will work better if correctly routed.
To be honest, unless some one can back themselves up, stay with a stock and drop in K&N.
Sorry but the "I felt a difference does not work!"
Try looking in the drag/dyno forum 
..it HAS BEEN known by damn near evry CEG'r that the RU3530 does increase hrsp, and using a heatshield, Aftermarket MAF, or sealed airbox w/ cold draw from the fender snorkel, or all of the above, etc. helps more.
That's fine, but if this is suppose to be a thread about which intake setup is better, it is no use 'just saying.' If people would back up their claims, it would be that much better. Just seems logical to one.
I am not doubting the setup you listed, but just the simple fact that it is all opinion thus far in the thread.
I just tried a search and no threads about an Intake being dyno tested over others.
There are dynos out there. And the K&N with MAF adapter showed gains over the stock SVT airbox.
I bet DemonSVT has them somewhere.
hey arsenal i am sorry!...i must no be a rich lil mo fo like you. Cause i do not have the money to go put my car on the dyno, just to see if an intake setup i installed on my car made more hp or not. Sorry but when it comes to an intake "I felt..." is good enough for me!
Aaron
ha, Well I guess its the way to determine if you are really making power or not.
A. you don't have to be rich to run a dyno run, you can do a run for about $35. So if you think how much you put in to the car, it is not really that bad.
I suggest looking for a Dyno in your area and find out the rates. You can also get the A/F ratio monitored, and can also tune your car, this does cost more, about $75 an hour, and usually just a flash, but it is worth it.
I see in your sig that you have spent at least $2000 just on extras for your car, so to a dyno run would be nothing to spend right!
in my mind my money right now would be well spent on other things...like books for school...so yes 35 or 75 bucks is a good bit to me...RIGHT NOW. as for the $2 trash can...man it felt good on the butt dyno!
lol best $2 u ever spent right? 4real though, I just did it for mine and have yet to drive it...we will see how the rubbermaid works
man talk about your ghetto setups.
If you were real serious about horsepower something tells me you shouldnt be drving a CONTOUR!!!!!!
i shake my head with some of you guys postering and posing about your wicked set-ups and then out comes some ghetto garbage can setup!
Originally posted by loggerbomb:
then out comes some ghetto garbage can setup!
Originally posted by loggerbomb:
Audiovox Prestige
J/K.... LOL
I just don't like them..
Ray
Originally posted by loggerbomb:
man talk about your ghetto setups.
If you were real serious about horsepower something tells me you shouldnt be drving a CONTOUR!!!!!!
i shake my head with some of you guys postering and posing about your wicked set-ups and then out comes some ghetto garbage can setup!
1st off I myself that actually OWNS a SVT like to add mods to increase hrsp. It IS an SVT so I guess you have been living under a rock for um...forever...and i guess you wouldn;t know that these cars are made for performance in their class. 2ndly the adaptor w/ K&N plus heatshield (garbage can)DOES increase hrsp. It has been proven and stated many times. 3rd the rubbermaid garbagecan heatshield is arguably one of the better if not best avail for our car. The one I am running seals off ALL hot air from the engine as well as being painted w/ 1200 deg. heat resistent paint. 4th, if painted balck like mine is w/ pipe insulation on the top edges to seal w/ the hood is used, it looks totally stock. It does not even stick out 1 bit when the hood is open. Looks like any other heatshield you would otherwise spend $50 or so on at some website. 5th, if we as automobile owners wern't looking to add hrsp and performance why was the website that YOU ARE ON ever developed? 
uhhhh wow this thread has gone down the toilet...so what im getting out of this
ram air, or whatever its true name is, its what im going to call it, ram air adds a nice little boost on hp and tq with a heat shield.
now a question
is there a how to on how to make the rubbermaid heat sheild?
Ram air does not require a heat shield. Atrue ram air setup, goes from a source usually in the front bumper directly to the throttle body, so just straight ambiebnt air.
The thread is going down because as soon as someone asks for proof of gains everyone gets on the defense and claims their setup is the best.
Thats why this thread is actually worthless as no proof.
Just s thread with what setup you have.
and make or buy a heat gaurd to seal off most of the engines hot air, or you could buy/make one of those kits that routes the air from your foglight directly into your filter,although there have been numerous discusions about the turbulence problems this causes.............. 