I have a triple gauge pod and need something to fill the third hole. I plan on getting the xcal2 at some point, so I was thinking an a/f meter wouldn't hurt.
Now, if I get headers and have a y-pipe w/ no cat, will I need to buy an a/f meter with its own o2 sensor since the stock sensors will have mil eliminators. .... Or does the xcal2 allow you to program the ecu in a way that you don't need mil eliminators?
Also, there is a digital tach in the guage pod but it is not hooked up. I haven't searched YET (please don't jump on me), but if you can provide information on connecting it in this thread, please do. Thanks.
frog,if you get a/f meter,send it out to have it recalibrated,or upgraded to me more accurate than they are out of the box,and no the xcal or headers wont affect it,the mils only alter the signal for the downstream sensors,up hook the a/f gauge to your upstream sensor,its real simple,look for the harnes to your front sensor,you'll see a white wire with a red line in it,just splice it into that wire,done
Who would I send it to for calibration? Thanks.
iirc isnt it the gaugedoctor? i maybe wrong,try getting ahold of stazi,i think i saw him post it before
ANY gauge running off a narrow band O2 sensor is nothing more then a fancy light show. It is absolutely worthless for tuning regardless of how fine the gauge reads. The O2 sensor is the important part of this equation.
At best a blinky light can be used as a safety after thought for boosted engine. However you must remember it is an afterthought because the O2 sensor is very inaccurate and slow responding away from stoich.
If you want something for tuning get a wideband O2 with gauge or a pyrometer. If you just want to fill the hole the best choices IMO are oil pressure, oil temp, volts, water temp, or a high end digital tachometer. (stock tach sucks!)
Already got the voltage and the digital tach (yeah the stock one sucks, I have to shift early because I can't trust it).
I may go with water temp or something.
I know a narrowband o2 a/f meter wouldn't be great. But it's a lot cheaper than wideband (isn't cheapest wideband setup over $300?) and should be somewhat useful.
OIL PRESSURE!!!
That is the number 1 gauge choice to get.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
OIL PRESSURE!!!
That is the number 1 gauge choice to get.
I'll second that. Oil pressure gauge should be the first one you buy.
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
OIL PRESSURE!!!
That is the number 1 gauge choice to get.
I'll second that. Oil pressure gauge should be the first one you buy.
I'll third it. Do I hear a fourth?
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
OIL PRESSURE!!!
That is the number 1 gauge choice to get.
I'll second that. Oil pressure gauge should be the first one you buy.
I'll third it. Do I hear a fourth?
Fourth! Going once, going twice...
Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
OIL PRESSURE!!!
That is the number 1 gauge choice to get.
I'll second that. Oil pressure gauge should be the first one you buy.
I'll third it. Do I hear a fourth?
Fourth! Going once, going twice...
...apparnt the person who stole the other two gauges out of the tri pod i have didnt feel that way,thats the one they left behind!!!!! i agree though
Then, if you have a mechanical gauge instead of an electrical one, they did you a favor.
Well maybe I'll get oil pressure and remove the voltage gauge. I don't really need to know voltage, but if I want to, my radar detector will tell me.
Obviously I don't know much about gauges,,, will the sender for an electrical oil gauge go directly into the block (where the allen screw is under the stock sender) or do I need some sort of fitting? Thanks.
Originally posted by tour96SeVT:
Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by posthuman63t:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
OIL PRESSURE!!!
That is the number 1 gauge choice to get.
I'll second that. Oil pressure gauge should be the first one you buy.
I'll third it. Do I hear a fourth?
Fourth! Going once, going twice...
...apparnt the person who stole the other two gauges out of the tri pod i have didnt feel that way,thats the one they left behind!!!!! i agree though
Chris some one stole your gauges?
not recently..back in rome
Ordered the oil pressure gauge. It's summit brand, so probably not the most accurate, but close enough.
Originally posted by SVTfrog:
Ordered the oil pressure gauge. It's summit brand, so probably not the most accurate, but close enough.
Mech or Elec? I don't think anyone has squeezed the electrical in behind the a/c compressor yet. Most of us running them in the 'correct' place are running mech...
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Mech or Elec? I don't think anyone has squeezed the electrical in behind the a/c compressor yet. Most of us running them in the 'correct' place are running mech...
A simple 90 degree elbow or a T-fitting lets you run an electric sender. The stock sending unit is mounted there.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Mech or Elec? I don't think anyone has squeezed the electrical in behind the a/c compressor yet. Most of us running them in the 'correct' place are running mech...
A simple 90 degree elbow or a T-fitting lets you run an electric sender. The stock sending unit is mounted there.
I didn't think there was enough room back there for it...but thats what I get for thinking :-P
Electrical... where would I get the elbow Demon? Parts store carry them?
home depot will probably be your best bet.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Mech or Elec? I don't think anyone has squeezed the electrical in behind the a/c compressor yet. Most of us running them in the 'correct' place are running mech...
A simple 90 degree elbow or a T-fitting lets you run an electric sender. The stock sending unit is mounted there.
I think I'd mount it in the head personally, if I could fit it as that will show pressure dropoff quicker I'd think.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Mech or Elec? I don't think anyone has squeezed the electrical in behind the a/c compressor yet. Most of us running them in the 'correct' place are running mech...
A simple 90 degree elbow or a T-fitting lets you run an electric sender. The stock sending unit is mounted there.
I think I'd mount it in the head personally, if I could fit it as that will show pressure dropoff quicker I'd think.
Wouldn't it be the opposite with the 'crappy' 2.5L heads with the oil being 'trapped' in the heads and thus not enough oil in the crankcase? Wouldn't you see the drop in pressure down there first?
How's the wiring from the gauge attach to the sender? The sender is a cylinder that has a threaded in to go into the block/head and has another part on the other side. No wires coming out of it.
If you are talking electrical, I believe its a female spade that goes over it..
Ok, that's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure. Directions just said to connect it without any further detail.
There was mention of a "High end digital tach". What manufacturer would you recomend. I was only able to find cheap stuff or gauges that were a bit too large for our pods.
One company is Stewart-Warner. Pretty nice equipment from them.
Yup i have the Stewart Warner G.U.S. and its amazing
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Mech or Elec? I don't think anyone has squeezed the electrical in behind the a/c compressor yet. Most of us running them in the 'correct' place are running mech...
A simple 90 degree elbow or a T-fitting lets you run an electric sender. The stock sending unit is mounted there.
I think I'd mount it in the head personally, if I could fit it as that will show pressure dropoff quicker I'd think.
Wouldn't it be the opposite with the 'crappy' 2.5L heads with the oil being 'trapped' in the heads and thus not enough oil in the crankcase? Wouldn't you see the drop in pressure down there first?
The system is really a set of controlled leaks, not sealed.
The heads/cams are further away from the source with some of the controlled leaks being the crank and rod bearings. Since the distance to the heads/cams is further away then anything else, the resistance to flow will be higher. The pressure will be higher up close to the pump and lower further away with every pressure drop.
Are you suggesting the head might not be a bad place to put a electrical sender now? Just want to clarify. Ive had mine in here for awhile now even though this forum has looked down on this.
Originally posted by Speed Demons:
Are you suggesting the head might not be a bad place to put a electrical sender now? Just want to clarify. Ive had mine in here for awhile now even though this forum has looked down on this.
No, I believe Tom is suggesting (as I did a few years back) that you may see a pressure drop sooner in the heads vice the crankcase.
Yep, that is kinda what I was thinking.
So even though the head location would be less acurate, it would show a pressure drop sooner? Wouldn't that be most useful for most of us?
I mean, I don't care if I really have 45psi and it says 40psi. I just want to know if there is a problem, and the sooner I know, the better.
Since the problem is in the bottom end with oil, I believe that you'd see the pressure drop in the bottomend, not the top. If the oiling problem was in the top end, then the head mounted area would be the way to go, but since its in the bottom end, I want to know what the pressure is down thur.
How many people have experienced leaking with mechanical oil pressure gauges... I would cry if my gauge leaked oil all over the interior.....