weight reduction - CEG Archives

Spare tire and jack
Rear seats
Carbon fibre hood
....how deep are your pockets.....

Get rid of girlfriend!

-dan

floor it and jump out.

Don't ride with any fat kids...

No.. really what you need to do is remove everything you can.

Most people get those Carbon hoods because they reduce front-end weight. You see there is a sweet spot around the engine and front tire area that gives you the most results from weight reduction. I can't recall what percentage that ratio is anymore because I've been out of the racing theme too long.

What you will need to do is learn to use a welding gun. Just cut out metal from the front-end frame as much as possible. Yes this will hurt your front-end crash performance because there will be little between you and the engine. You can also remove the Timing Belt cover and Header Heat Shield for starters.

Something else to do is remove the back seats and put in some lighter front racing seats. When you remove the back seat you can just re-carpet that areas so that people can set back there, just not a comfy as it once was.

You should also think about using lighter rims.

Now if this was a truck you would do the same, only add weight to the back end because you would just sit a spin dust without enough weight. It's a good tip for those that have trucks that live in cold weather to have a few bags of dirt just encase you get stuck in the snow or want to prevent your rear-end from sliding around on ice.

Originally posted by TronX:
1. Most people get those Carbon hoods because they reduce front-end weight. You see there is a sweet spot around the engine and front tire area that gives you the most results from weight reduction.
Just cut out metal from the front-end frame as much as possible.

2. You can also remove the Timing Belt cover and Header Heat Shield for starters.

1. Are you forgetting what type of car this is. FWD

You can't take too much weigh off the front end or you lose all your traction. NO SUCH thing as good weight transfer either!

This is a touring/road racing car. NOT a RWD drag only car!!!

Balance is essential to everything.

2. Timing belt??? WTF are you talking about!
I think you need to step back and re-think what you are saying here. Just imagine removing the front cover. It should hit you like a ton of bricks. Either that or engine failure will.

I think he means the top cover. I don't have one. And I think he means just lowering the front end weight for a bit better balance. Demon, you know all about that, you've done it yourself.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I think he means the top cover. I don't have one. And I think he means just lowering the front end weight for a bit better balance. Demon, you know all about that, you've done it yourself.

ROFL! I was trying to figure what I said that made him trip all over my post? Kremithefrog has it right on the money.

is there a backseat delete kit like there is for the focus?

Kit? I call it a torx socket and a ratchet. Didn't know it was a kit.

in the focus fanatic mag they have a kit to replace the back seat with carpet and a back and seat piece to make ur focus a two seater

Oooo

Originally posted by contour19:
in the focus fanatic mag they have a kit to replace the back seat with carpet and a back and seat piece to make ur focus a two seater

Why? And no, "to go faster" is not a viable answer.

You would have to remove 100's of pounds to realize any gains, and in our carsd, there nothing that weighs any significant amount, that you can remove, to acheive this.

If you want to go faster, don't be ghetto. Get a turbo or nitrous or work the motor.

Driving around in a gutted Contour is far from cool, it's downright

When I took my car to the drag strip I managed to remove about 300lbs from the car. (50-60lbs being sub box)

Was the other 240lb your buddy holding a case of beer?

There's nothing you can unbolt, realistically (discounting doors, hood, trunk etc) that'll add up to 300lb (or 250lbs for that matter) Demon weighed all of the realistic stock "unboltables" (rear seat back and bottom, spare tire, car jack, tools) and I don't think it added up to even 100lbs, so I don't buy your 300lb weight reduction.

Maybe he poured some slim-fast in his gas tank?

Originally posted by Pimpalicious316:
http://www.jennycraig.com/

I disagree. 100 lbs is significant.

Every pound shaved is more effective than the last. Kind of like the law of diminishing returns in reverse.

The weight savings of a carbon hood would have to be weighed against the change in balance, but it might be viable. Leave the battery up front, for instance, and take out the spare tire and jack. Take out the back seat... Remove bumpers and replace all glass with plexi.

Driving around like this won't impress anyone, but we're talking about racing. If it's legal, and you want to win, you'll do it.

Originally posted by Stazi:
Was the other 240lb your buddy holding a case of beer?

There's nothing you can unbolt, realistically (discounting doors, hood, trunk etc) that'll add up to 300lb (or 250lbs for that matter) Demon weighed all of the realistic stock "unboltables" (rear seat back and bottom, spare tire, car jack, tools) and I don't think it added up to even 100lbs, so I don't buy your 300lb weight reduction.

It may have been close to 250lbs. When I weigh-in with everything I usually have in, the car weighs over 3k. I weighed before heading to the strip and it was at 2760lb. No back seat, trunk carpet, spare, jack, sub box, much of the pillar trim, seat belts, a/c, and a few other things. Call BS all you want. I weighed it and I saw it.

I managed to get my Cougar down to 2650 with my 19" wheels and body kit, still retaining the carpet and sound deadning materials also.

I dont know about the contours but the cougar has plenty of heavy panels and parts which can be removed to realise 250-300lbs of weight reduction w/o cutting.

IMO anyone who guts their car to be faster instead of doing real performance mods is retarded. driving around teh streets in a STRIPPED contour that still runs high 17s is not cool at all. notice all the people with the fastest times all have a full interior. granted i removed subs and spare and jack, but thats it.

plus whats the point in driving a stripped contour on the street that the weight reduction is ofset by adding subs?

bottom line: obcessive weight reduction for a daily driver is absolutely retarded. it is a ricer mod to the fullest. now a dedicated DRAG CAR that is stripped is reasonable, it has one purpose, and that is to be fast in a straight line.

Well I still have a few panels out, no back seat or belts, no trunk carpeting. I manage to drive around daily with no problems and even if I have to have passengers they still ride back there. I'm gonna do something with it one day, but I don't mind my car weighing less 24/7. I can also hear the subs better with no seat. Different strokes for different folks.
Oo and my car would run low 17s or high 16s in 1/4 mile if you were referring to my car.

Originally posted by TheAlmightyMe:

Originally posted by Pimpalicious316:
http://www.jennycraig.com/

definitely the cheapest way, although not the quickest or easiest

isnt there some "rule of thumb" that for every 100 pounds removed you shave about 1/10th of a second? i could have sworn i read that somewhere...(could be wrong) not worth driving around in a stripped car IMHO. weight reduction can save on gas, though im not sure it would be significant.

Originally posted by svt4stv:

definitely the cheapest way, although not the quickest or easiest

isnt there some "rule of thumb" that for every 100 pounds removed you shave about 1/10th of a second? i could have sworn i read that somewhere...(could be wrong) not worth driving around in a stripped car IMHO. weight reduction can save on gas, though im not sure it would be significant.

So its like if I was to arrive to my nearest 7-11 in 2 seconds sooner. WOW!

-dan

Along with light weight wheels there are light weight lug nuts. Also you can switch out your battery for much a lighter one(Dyna Batt, Odyssey 13-15 lbs. compared to about 40 lbs. stock battery). I switched out my front brakes for the Willwood brake kit which comes with calipers that weigh 20 lbs. less than the stock calipers.

Originally posted by Russell-3L:
IMO anyone who guts their car to be faster instead of doing real performance mods is retarded.

I respect you, but this is a retarded statement.

Weight reduction is a real mod.

Some of your post makes sense, I'll grant you that. The "single wiper" mod comes to mind.

But the original post was about how to reduce weight, not "how do I impress my ricer friends?"

Worrying about what people think about you instead of your trap speed? I'm not much for drag racing, but that's retarded thinking in any paddock.

Exactly. If you're not going to the drag strip to get the fastest times you can get, why even go? I can understand wanting to know what it runs in stock weight as well, but I also understand you put mods on a car so it goes faster. You remove weight so it goes faster. Same thing.

Originally posted by ContourSVT98:

Originally posted by svt4stv:

definitely the cheapest way, although not the quickest or easiest

isnt there some "rule of thumb" that for every 100 pounds removed you shave about 1/10th of a second? i could have sworn i read that somewhere...(could be wrong) not worth driving around in a stripped car IMHO. weight reduction can save on gas, though im not sure it would be significant.

So its like if I was to arrive to my nearest 7-11 in 2 seconds sooner. WOW!

-dan

if you're going to 7-11 you're probably just going to end up adding weight! donuts, slurpee, chili dogs, beer, chips, etc...

not to mention, to shave 2 seconds off of your time would probably require you to replace your engine with 3cyl. Geo motor or maybe even just a hamster wheel. It would take A LOT of weight reduction to reduce that much time.

weight reduction is an excellent addition to hp/tq mods. i read a great article in R&T (I think?) a few years ago about some prince who had the entire front end of his F355 replaced with CF. hood, bumper, fenders to reduce weight. he also changed the suspsension and did some go-fast mods. they (editor) said everythng that was done made a huge difference. that wasn't for dragging but for street and course driving. less weight means less for the car to move, plain and simple. if anything, some stuff you do to your car may add weight, or slow you down, and you may just even out.

Originally posted by svt4stv:
If anything, some stuff you do to your car may add weight, or slow you down, and you may just even out.

yeah, like those [censored] turbos. damn i hate turbos

~Andrew

Originally posted by Pimpalicious316:

Originally posted by svt4stv:
If anything, some stuff you do to your car may add weight, or slow you down, and you may just even out.

yeah, like those [censored] turbos. damn i hate turbos

~Andrew

You don't turbos?

How about super chargers?

I don't buy 250 lbs or 300 lbs for a second! Hell not even 200 lbs.

I don't even buy them losing as much weight as an SVT.

Why is that?

The SVT's have a heavier spare tire for one when compared to the 14" & 15" cars.

SVT rear seats are slightly heavier due to the covering on them (likely an leather optioned SE matches the weight)

The most weight reduction (not including fuel) I could get without stripping out interior cabin panels or the passenger seat was 91 lbs.
This was done on digital corner scales. It doesn't get any more accurate.

This doesn't include any weight saved from previous modifications either.(battery, no pre-cats, No y-pipe, custom exhaust, multiple brackets removed, etc) I saved quite a bit there!

The passenger seat weighs about 10 lbs. The inner cabin panels even less then that. So figure maybe 105-110 lbs with a fairly gutted interior. Yeah.

For ref - The rear seat bottom is really not worth removing. It weighs well under 8lbs. Cloth ones even less.

You get the bulk of your gains from the spare & jack, the rear seat backs, and amount of fuel. That's it.

Fuel weight is about 100 lbs for a full tank. So say 40 lbs with just under 1/2 a tank.

That means fully stripped with 1/3 tank a "heavier" SVT sheds about 150-165 lbs.

My figures for normal street trim with a full tank & driver: 3200 lbs
Race weight with 1/2 tank & driver: 3070 lbs

That's 130 total pounds lighter and 50 lbs is fuel weight reduction.

How much does the hood weigh? Removing that would have two advantages; weight and engine/intake cooling.

Originally posted by TronX:

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I think he means the top cover. I don't have one. And I think he means just lowering the front end weight for a bit better balance. Demon, you know all about that, you've done it yourself.

ROFL! I was trying to figure what I said that made him trip all over my post? Kremithefrog has it right on the money.

There is no such thing as a top cover for the TIMING CHAINS on a Duratec engine.

Matter of fact there is no TIMING BELT on the Duratec either.

There is a "front cover" that is an integral part of the engine assembly. Hence why removing it would be fatal and why I responded as such.

Also about your post Tronx; it stated cutting out sheet metal to lower the weight of the front end.
THAT SAYS AND MEANS NOTHING about lowering the center of gravity. That is a cheap drag racers trick to get better weight transfer to the rear wheels. Again hence why I responded as such.

Also to respond to the second thought, "indiscriminately" cutting weight out from below the center line RAISES the center of gravity which is detrimental to handling and performance. Other modifications should be done to counter these affects.

Nice try to cover it up but you just need to cut your loses at this point...

I tripped over nothing but horrible advice that has nothing to do with the original post (weight reduction for a FWD Duratec powered Contour) or really anything on this site for that matter.

Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
How much does the hood weigh? Removing that would have two advantages; weight and engine/intake cooling.

Also one VERY LARGE disadvantage.

SEVERE DRAG!

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by ChattavegasSE:
How much does the hood weigh? Removing that would have two advantages; weight and engine/intake cooling.

Also one VERY LARGE disadvantage.

SEVERE DRAG!

D'oh! I've never had a fast enough car where that would be an issue.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by TronX:

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I think he means the top cover. I don't have one. And I think he means just lowering the front end weight for a bit better balance. Demon, you know all about that, you've done it yourself.

ROFL! I was trying to figure what I said that made him trip all over my post? Kremithefrog has it right on the money.

There is no such thing as a top cover for the TIMING CHAINS on a Duratec engine.

Matter of fact there is no TIMING BELT on the Duratec either.

TronX has a zetec, which does have a top cover and a timing belt.

So you're saying the scale I used is roughly ~100lbs off? Or you just don't believe me? Either way I saw what my car weighs and I believe it to be close to what I saw (not completely accurate of course, but no more than 5-10lbs off).

And I thought a gallon of fuel is about four pounds, so less than 60lbs for a full tank.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
I don't buy 250 lbs or 300 lbs for a second! Hell not even 200 lbs.

I don't even buy them losing as much weight as an SVT.

Why is that?

The SVT's have a heavier spare tire for one when compared to the 14" & 15" cars.

SVT rear seats are slightly heavier due to the covering on them (likely an leather optioned SE matches the weight)

The most weight reduction (not including fuel) I could get without stripping out interior cabin panels or the passenger seat was 91 lbs.
This was done on digital corner scales. It doesn't get any more accurate.

This doesn't include any weight saved from previous modifications either.(battery, no pre-cats, No y-pipe, custom exhaust, multiple brackets removed, etc) I saved quite a bit there!

The passenger seat weighs about 10 lbs. The inner cabin panels even less then that. So figure maybe 105-110 lbs with a fairly gutted interior. Yeah.

For ref - The rear seat bottom is really not worth removing. It weighs well under 8lbs. Cloth ones even less.

You get the bulk of your gains from the spare & jack, the rear seat backs, and amount of fuel. That's it.

Fuel weight is about 100 lbs for a full tank. So say 40 lbs with just under 1/2 a tank.

That means fully stripped with 1/3 tank a "heavier" SVT sheds about 150-165 lbs.

My figures for normal street trim with a full tank & driver: 3200 lbs
Race weight with 1/2 tank & driver: 3070 lbs

That's 130 total pounds lighter and 50 lbs is fuel weight reduction.

100 lbs for a 12 gal tank of gas? Planning factor for JP-8 is only about 3 lbs/gal, and that's closer to diesel. You're talking around 9 lbs/gal?

And besides, Kremit had some other "add-ons" that he took out. Let's see, if I count baby seats, work papers, lunchbox, empty pop cans and nutri-grain wrappers, and other assorted detritus in my "before" weight, I might see a big difference, too.

Originally posted by Pimpalicious316:

Originally posted by svt4stv:
If anything, some stuff you do to your car may add weight, or slow you down, and you may just even out.

yeah, like those [censored] turbos. damn i hate turbos

~Andrew

like 19" rims, and 12" subwoofers, and amps, and adding an svt body kit or exhaust, etc...

addin the kit is for looks, in my honest opinion the SVT looks better to me then the stock contours. and we arent all out there for speed, but looks and sound. hell, i put all that on my tour and i love it, except for i have 18s.

The best weight reduction you can get is make a go kart. then install the engine on it. Don't even need a radiator, its all air cooled. no winshield either... Gotta gain major speed!

I'd think most of us agree a Contour would need professional overhaul to see a change worth the work. I mean, change as in many seconds shaven.

Even thinking that; the Duratec for that matter can only produce so much.

Reducing the weight of any car doesn't give it the next standard in acceleration, just more headaches tuning parts which took years to design.

Originally posted by MarshlMathrs:
addin the kit is for looks, in my honest opinion the SVT looks better to me then the stock contours. and we arent all out there for speed, but looks and sound. hell, i put all that on my tour and i love it, except for i have 18s.

The SVT kit is also more aerodynamic that the standard bumpers of a regular contour.

Originally posted by RogerB:
100 lbs for a 12 gal tank of gas? Planning factor for JP-8 is only about 3 lbs/gal, and that's closer to diesel. You're talking around 9 lbs/gal?

Where do you guys get your information from???

15.4 gallon tank and using 6 lbs per gallon of fuel.
That's nearly 100lbs. (My charts used 90 lbs as full fuel & only a 40lb reduction for 1/2 tank so I estimated a little light even)

Gasoline can change between about 5.5-6.5 lbs depending on numerous conditions.

JP-4 weighs 6.7 lbs per gallon. Hence why you couldn't move a full wing tank if you had to. Even the small centerline tank will split the forks on the dolly if it's past halfway.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
1. TronX has a zetec, which does have a top cover and a timing belt.

2. So you're saying the scale I used is roughly ~100lbs off? Or you just don't believe me? Either way I saw what my car weighs and I believe it to be close to what I saw (not completely accurate of course, but no more than 5-10lbs off).

1. That doesn't matter. He gave that advice to someone that has a Duratec.

Hence my response!

2. Probably more then that.
The information and numbers I posted are exactly calculated from digital corner scales. There is no way you dropped 250-300lbs without the scales dropping about half of the difference by being incorrect.

Hence Stazi and my responses.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
1. TronX has a zetec, which does have a top cover and a timing belt.

2. So you're saying the scale I used is roughly ~100lbs off? Or you just don't believe me? Either way I saw what my car weighs and I believe it to be close to what I saw (not completely accurate of course, but no more than 5-10lbs off).

1. That doesn't matter. He gave that advice to someone that has a Duratec.

Hence my response!

2. Probably more then that.
The information and numbers I posted are exactly calculated from digital corner scales. There is no way you dropped 250-300lbs without the scales dropping about half of the difference by being incorrect.

Hence Stazi and my responses.

1.It does matter. He maybe should have clarified, but the guy obviously would have found out quickly that he couldn't do that with his duratec. He was giving more general advice.

2.Ok. Say what you want. Same scale, used daily by a company so I'm sure it's pretty close to being right. So even if it was off, it should be off on my heavy weight and my light weight by about the same. I don't know why it's so implausible to drop 200-300lbs outta a contour. Other people have done it too.

kremit,
If you want to put an end to it, the easiest thing to do would be to take a bathroom scale and weigh every little thing you removed from the car. Post the list and their weights.

spare tire - ____ lbs
jack & iron - _____ lbs
back seats - _____ lbs
subs - _____ lbs
etc.

That would be really hard to considering half the stuff is at my mom's house, half is at my dad's house, other half (hahaha) is in the car. Both houses are 3 hours from here, and one hour apart from each other. And I don't have a bathroom scale.
I really don't care whether anyone believes me. I was just stating what I did.

spare tire - 30 lbs
jack & iron - 10 lbs
back seats - 20 lbs
subs - 50 lbs
etc. - the rest lbs

*all weights are guestimates; the author of this post assumes no liability for any actions taken after reading this post, nor does the author have any affliation with the companys that make the listed items.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by RogerB:
100 lbs for a 12 gal tank of gas? Planning factor for JP-8 is only about 3 lbs/gal, and that's closer to diesel. You're talking around 9 lbs/gal?

Where do you guys get your information from???

15.4 gallon tank and using 6 lbs per gallon of fuel.
That's nearly 100lbs. (My charts used 90 lbs as full fuel & only a 40lb reduction for 1/2 tank so I estimated a little light even)

Gasoline can change between about 5.5-6.5 lbs depending on numerous conditions.

JP-4 weighs 6.7 lbs per gallon. Hence why you couldn't move a full wing tank if you had to. Even the small centerline tank will split the forks on the dolly if it's past halfway.

15.4 gallon tank? I wish I had one of those.

Originally posted by SVT PETE:
If you want to put an end to it, the easiest thing to do would be to take a bathroom scale and weigh every little thing you removed from the car. Post the list and their weights.

spare tire - ____ lbs
jack & iron - _____ lbs
back seats - _____ lbs
subs - _____ lbs
etc.

I can do that list.

Hell most of it is posted on my website.

I'm done with this thread. Some of the folks just can't grasp simple common sense...

For real? You weighed what came outta my car? Awesome!

Some people can't grasp a simple fact of what happens in real life. Quit bench weighing.

Scale showed 2760lbs when I weighed, that was with jack and spare still in the car. Just FYI for those that wants to know and more INFO for the non-believers to try to shoot down with "common sense". Common sense says you remove buncha weight, and weigh car, it weighs less.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
For real? You weighed what came outta my car? Awesome!

Some people can't grasp a simple fact of what happens in real life. Quit bench weighing.

Scale showed 2760lbs when I weighed, that was with jack and spare still in the car. Just FYI for those that wants to know and more INFO for the non-believers to try to shoot down with "common sense". Common sense says you remove buncha weight, and weigh car, it weighs less.

And what, you compared it to the weight of an SVT or V6 Contour and vio la, 300lbs?

BS!

Fact of the matter is that (NOT COUNTING MODIFICATION), you cannot realistically strip a Contour down 300lbs without gutting the entire interior - which I'll bet money on, Kremi did not do.

At the end of the day you ignore the info posted my Demon and I (both veterans and degreed) over some claim Kremi made. Is this StreetKiaz.com or what.

Originally posted by Stazi:

And what, you compared it to the weight of an SVT or V6 Contour and vio la, 300lbs?

BS!

Fact of the matter is that (NOT COUNTING MODIFICATION), you cannot realistically strip a Contour down 300lbs without gutting the entire interior - which I'll bet money on, Kremi did not do.

At the end of the day you ignore the info posted my Demon and I (both veterans and degreed) over some claim Kremi made. Is this StreetKiaz.com or what.

All I did was compare it to the weight of MY car before and after.

Well, I somehow did it.

HAHA, it doesn't matter whether anybody believes me. So people, believe whoever you want. But like I said, they're "bench" weighing. I removed the weight, weighed the car, and saw the difference. I guess it's like Ripley's Believe it or not, it's up to u. I guess this is like streetkiaz, if streetkiaz has "experts" that 'know everything' trying to shoot down a FACTUAL experience.

2 + 2 = 4

It's all in the numbers. Yours don't add up.

Your numbers are saying 2 + 2 = 22

Originally posted by rkneeshaw3.0:
2 + 2 = 4

It's all in the numbers. Yours don't add up.

Your numbers are saying 2 + 2 = 22

OK, to you it's all in the numbers. To me, well I was there so I know what's up. Like I said, don't gotta believe me.

Kremi, you even question you own methods, so how is that FACTUAL?

I'm not trying to personally attack you, but I believe DemonSVT's digital scale, corner-weighing method, over your "Guesstomatic 2000" method - anyday.

I've AutoX'd for a few seasons now, and have taken as much as was reasonable off the car (rear seats, sub box, amp, spare and tools), and it wouldn't have exceeded 100lbs.

Think about it and be serious 300lbs?

C'mon, you'd have to had removed your rear doors and hood to hit that!

Originally posted by MarshlMathrs:
addin the kit is for looks, in my honest opinion the SVT looks better to me then the stock contours. and we arent all out there for speed, but looks and sound. hell, i put all that on my tour and i love it, except for i have 18s.

Maybe he was in the car when he weighed the first time

Honestly, even with your "guesstimates" your weight came out to 110lbs? And that's stripping everything with actual weight. What do you have in the car that could account for the other 190lbs besides a dead body in your trunk?

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
What do you have in the car that could account for the other 190lbs besides a dead body in your trunk?

beware...you never know. keep your doors locked. kremi is a rather unstable individual

~Andrew

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Maybe he was in the car when he weighed the first time

Honestly, even with your "guesstimates" your weight came out to 110lbs? And that's stripping everything with actual weight. What do you have in the car that could account for the other 190lbs besides a dead body in your trunk?

Mark

Nope.

Now I did have less gas, so maybe 40-50lbs there. But again, I did have the spare and jack in when I weighed. I removed a buncha stuff, that's all I gotta say. Believe it or not. My car weighed roughly 2760lb. Other people have done it too. So if you haven't done it, don't knock it. You can say this should weigh this,etc. but unless you do it, you don't know.

Or no, I'm just making all this up.

U guys r so funny.

what kind of scale did you use, kremi?

I said before. It's a truck scale at a construction company. Yes I know it's not gonna be dead on accurate, but you think they really use a scale that is 100lb's off? And if it is off, like I said, I used it for both my before and after weight, so should be off the same amount.

LOL.. It's not hard to drop 300 from a car. I've seen everything ripped out and gutted to drop 1000+ pounds. Itâ�?��?�s as simple as finding wide-open metal areas and cutting them out to replace with lighter materials. There is a lot of junk piled into are cars that make them very race unfriendly, but otherwise needed for everyday driving comfort and safety.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I said before. It's a truck scale at a construction company. Yes I know it's not gonna be dead on accurate, but you think they really use a scale that is 100lb's off? And if it is off, like I said, I used it for both my before and after weight, so should be off the same amount.

Well I rest my case. A construction company scale which is crude at best - compared to a digital corner weighting scal setup.

Hmm, I go with the digital racing scales.

Originally posted by Stazi:

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I said before. It's a truck scale at a construction company. Yes I know it's not gonna be dead on accurate, but you think they really use a scale that is 100lb's off? And if it is off, like I said, I used it for both my before and after weight, so should be off the same amount.

Well I rest my case. A construction company scale which is crude at best - compared to a digital corner weighting scal setup.

Hmm, I go with the digital racing scales.

not only that, but a large scale like that isn't going to accurately handle a small vehicle imo.

and, yes, a scale can be off 100lbs now and 10 lbs later.... much like a car can run poorly one minute and fine the next. don't think that consistency and accuracy are the same things!

Best weight reduction for the car that I've found:

I've gone on a diet.

Originally posted by Stazi:

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I said before. It's a truck scale at a construction company. Yes I know it's not gonna be dead on accurate, but you think they really use a scale that is 100lb's off? And if it is off, like I said, I used it for both my before and after weight, so should be off the same amount.

Well I rest my case. A construction company scale which is crude at best - compared to a digital corner weighting scal setup.

Hmm, I go with the digital racing scales.

I go with digital racing scales too but don't have access to one(the truck scale was digital as well, and it's for smaller big trucks, not semis).

But when did Demon remove weight out of MY car and weigh it? We've weighed a lot of other cars out there and it always seems to be pretty close to what it should be.

Fact is I removed 200lb+ from my car. Just because you or your friend haven't done it doesn't it mean it can't be done.

Like I said, a bunch of other people have done it as well. Here's one in this thread: "I managed to get my Cougar down to 2650 with my 19" wheels and body kit, still retaining the carpet and sound deadning materials also."

So unless you do it yourself, you don't know. I'm not gonna go telling you stuff about a turbo Stazi, or building an engine Demon, cuz I have done neither. I have removed weight and weighed my car though. You don't have to believe I did it. I don't have to believe you've ran high 13s in your contour. Neither one of us saw each other do da thang.

Again, quit "bench" weighing.

Kremit,

Does your weight drop include removing your A/C, UDP, and cam gears?

Originally posted by SleeperZ:
Kremit,

Does your weight drop include removing your A/C, UDP, and cam gears?

Not cam gears, but the a/c only weighs 24lbs total (condensor,compressor, accumulator, and most the lines). That was on a bathroom scale though, not a digital racing scale, so don't believe it.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
When I took my car to the drag strip I managed to remove about 300lbs from the car. (50-60lbs being sub box)

I know I said I was done with this thread but just to remind everyone on how this started since he keeps sliding further and further back.

How would you read what he posted?

He dropped 300 lbs for his trip to the race track right???

That is, was, and always will be complete BS since there is no way you can "field strip" more then about 100 lbs regardless of what Contour/Mystique/Cougar you have.

I'm not talking about removing doors, glass, hood, dash, battery, et cetera...

So you trying to go back on what you said? Sorry I gotta be so specific: I weighed my car once when it was around stock weight. Then I removed stuff over a period of time and removed even more just for this day, weighed it and headed straight to the drag strip. Happy? I know u still are gonna say I didn't remove all that weight. Disagree all you want. Me and others have done it. Just because you haven't done it doesn't mean it's not doable. I guess I can say you don't have a 3L since I don't have one.

I guess the argument may be confused here as Kremi may have one HELL of a sub box (or something

) that he removed prior to reweighing the car.

What Demon and I are saying is that on the base weight of any Contour, you cannot field strip 300lbs off it!

Kremi may have wieghed the car with who knows what sh!t in there then removed it and viola 300lbs lighter.

Simple fact of the matter is that if you take an average Contour with no stereo (read: sub box) in it and try and slim it down, you won't get anywhere much past 100lbs lighter, without removing doors, all but the drivers seat, panels etc.

I think I spotted Kremi's car photographed on the net, here it is.

I think I spotted Kremi's car photographed on the net, here it is.

Thats funny right there. I don't care who you are.

Originally posted by Stazi:
I guess the argument may be confused here as Kremi may have one HELL of a sub box (or something ) that he removed prior to reweighing the car.

What Demon and I are saying is that on the base weight of any Contour, you cannot field strip 300lbs off it!

Kremi may have wieghed the car with who knows what sh!t in there then removed it and viola 300lbs lighter.

Simple fact of the matter is that if you take an average Contour with no stereo (read: sub box) in it and try and slim it down, you won't get anywhere much past 100lbs lighter, without removing doors, all but the drivers seat, panels etc.

I think that's the answer.

This subject is spinning it's wheels. No need to drag it on any further.