E.T.? - CEG Archives

Originally posted by pole120:

Originally posted by Marky:

If you get close to the 14's be sure and post the slip.

and a video

i guess my car stacks up pretty good then. i dont know how to post slip. but if friday is nice ill be at the track knockin on 14s door.
my 60 ft on most of the runs were 2.3's which sucks but i just cant get this car to launch good w/ my Neo Gen Nittos.
the car weighs 3050lbs. w/o me.

If you get the car to run 14's with a 2.3 60', you better find a way to post slips, or you're going to be in for some flaming IMHO. For the most part, you're completely stock with a K&N and a y-pipe. Running with some 18" wheels isn't helping your cause either. If I were to give an honest guestimate, I'd say 15.3-15.4 at best. Not sure how you pulled off a 15.1?

Mark

my 18s are the same or lighter than stock and my overall tire height is about 3/8 of an inch lower which brings the gear ratio up a little. tell me how to post slips and i will.

guys what did your svts run stock? mine went low 15.40s.
ps
whats wrong with bosch plus 4s?

Originally posted by racerbox77:
guys what did your svts run stock? mine went low 15.40s.
ps
whats wrong with bosch plus 4s?

they may be lighter or the same weight as your stockers, but the rotational mass is moved further out, which takes more power to make it move...??? or something like that...also your contact patch is prob wider....and the plugs r garbage

Originally posted by racerbox77:
guys what did your svts run stock? mine went low 15.40s.
ps
whats wrong with bosch plus 4s?

misfires....amongst other problems

Our cars DON"T like Bosch products... period. Unless its a cabin filter. I think the plugs have something to do with not being able to gap them properly because of their crappy design. Duratecs are picky about plug gap, wire, etc.

SVT stock is a high 15.3 (I think) with a GOOD driver.

Stock is 15.3ish with perfect everything.

Normal is 15.5ish

Traps around 90mph.

i disagree about the plugs. rotational mass moved out. i guess that makes sense. since there is more wheel and less tire,but hey im happy with the performance now. i expected 14s after the flywheel replacement.but i would have to assume y-pipe w/o cat should knock off a tenth. when your dealing with @200 horse it doesnt take much. roughly 10 horse = one tenth.

Originally posted by racerbox77:
i disagree about the plugs. rotational mass moved out. i guess that makes sense. since there is more wheel and less tire,but hey im happy with the performance now. i expected 14s after the flywheel replacement.but i would have to assume y-pipe w/o cat should knock off a tenth. when your dealing with @200 horse it doesnt take much. roughly 10 horse = one tenth.

???

Wow... where'd you educate yourself from?!

1) Bosch plugs are PROVEN to be BAD for our 2.5L Duratec
2) 200 horses? Nope... to the ground 160-175 depending on driver/conditions
3)Y-pipe w/o a cat... won't do anything on yoru time. Intake? If your car can't suck in more air.. it can't technically release it any faster.

i think it has been proven that having no cat or a gutted cat with high flow y pipe isnt as effective as having a working cat...???

Originally posted by tour96se:
i think it has been proven that having no cat or a gutted cat with high flow y pipe isnt as effective as having a working cat...???

From what I have read.

plus 4s proven to be bad? who proved it? maybe on forced induction car? deleting all those nasty bends AND the cat with a bandrel bent y wont help?? because the intake wont suck enough in? i thought the intakes and maf were ok until you start really making power. an engine is an air pump basically. right now the bottle neck of my air pump is the cat-back. get rid of that bottle neck and the air pump can pump more get it? if anything i might lose a little low end torque by opening up the exhaust.

Originally posted by LilStrypedSVT:
1) Bosch plugs are PROVEN to be BAD for our 2.5L Duratec
I agree, but I'm sure he wants specifics as to WHY they are "bad".
2) 200 horses? Nope... to the ground 160-175 depending on driver/conditions
I doubt he meant FWHP. I would assume he is talking at the crank.
3)Y-pipe w/o a cat... won't do anything on yoru time. Intake? If your car can't suck in more air.. it can't technically release it any faster.

A highflow y-pipe w/ or w/out a cat should still improve power throughout all rpms. And technically, if the exhaust is a huge restriction(as the y-pipe IS with our cars), then it CAN release it faster without any form of "intake".

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:

Originally posted by LilStrypedSVT:
1) Bosch plugs are PROVEN to be BAD for our 2.5L Duratec
I agree, but I'm sure he wants specifics as to WHY they are "bad".
2) 200 horses? Nope... to the ground 160-175 depending on driver/conditions
I doubt he meant FWHP. I would assume he is talking at the crank.
3)Y-pipe w/o a cat... won't do anything on yoru time. Intake? If your car can't suck in more air.. it can't technically release it any faster.

A highflow y-pipe w/ or w/out a cat should still improve power throughout all rpms. And technically, if the exhaust is a huge restriction(as the y-pipe IS with our cars), then it CAN release it faster without any form of "intake".

Mark

Ahhh.. right. Thats where an Intake will not benefit unless exhaust is combined.

yes flywheel horse

(not an amature)

Where in Ohio are you?

And yes do a search on Bosch 4 spark plugs, they don't like the Duratec for some reason.

TourdeForce sent me an email as to why exactly those plugs arent good. It made sense and I wont buy them again, but I just put them in about 500 miles ago. If I start to notice a problem Ill change them out for some Autolites, as he suggested.
Im about 45 minutes from Norwalk Raceway. You?

Hey Mmarfan,
what was done to your SE? thats almost exactly what my car runs.(or ran, last time)

Originally posted by racerbox77:
I just cant get this car to launch good w/ my Neo Gen Nittos.

Now I can see why you can't get your 60's down... I've never been fond of those tires, for multiple reasons.

Ray

Ok guys went to the track last night fully expecting 14s with my newest mod(y-pipe). BUT it didnt happen 15.08 was my best

and that was with my best 60 ft so far 2.55. (with my nitto neo gens Ray) every other run netted me the same times as before the y (15.12,15.21,15.14 at 89.7-90.5)
i suppose the exhaust at least at this time isnt the bottle neck.

unless the y being 2.5 inches and the cat back being stock is hurting any gains i would have gotten.
i want to make or buy a nice ram air set-up. any suggestions on which are the best and where to find? rather not go thru the trouble of relocating the battery.

you pulled a 15.08 with a 2.55 60' on an NA 2.5.....hmmmmmm

post a vid and a slip, thats all i can say. not trying to start a war here, but that's fishy

Short ram intake. Has been discussed over 800,000 times. K&N air filter(part# RU-3530) + MAF Adapter. Everything for under $75. Heatshield is optional, but can also be made with a rubbermaid trashcan and foam/rubber stripping.

Mark

15 flat with a 2.55 60' from basically a stock SVT.

Not going to happen!!!

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
15 flat with a 2.55 60' from basically a stock SVT.

Not going to happen!!!

my thoughts exactly

Definitely not. With just a catback exhaust I could only pull a 15.3 out of my SVT, and that was with a 2.2 60' time.

I don't care how fast you shift your tranny after a 2.55!!!!! 60' time, you're not going to make up .6 of a second!

Mark

ok you guys dont believe me and that makes me feel awesome! I can post time slip if I borrow a digi and read up on how to get it up loaded.( not too savy on the pc)Once again im near Cleveland,Oh and pretty close to sea level.Also Norwalk Raceway is an awesome track. Let me review my car=
weight-3240 w me and spare,jack +12 inch sub and 2 amps
tires-nitto neo gen 215/40/18
wheels-enkei gf1
springs-bat
struts-st200
both strut bars
polyurethan-sway bars,front mtr mount
shifter-stock shortend(dont buy ebay shortie-broke after second power shift)
brakes-cross drilled+slotted w/ kevlar racing pads
intake-k+n cone with stock housing cut to open it up more
(better than plastic garbage can)
tps-.98
maf screen-gone
plugs-bosch+4s
wires-8mm
stat-170 w/ water wetter
hood seals- gone
oil-syntec
y-pipe-tru bendz w/o cat
resonator-gone
thats it so far.
I guess im in that .9% of great drivers

Originally posted by racerbox77:

I guess im in that .9% of great drivers

that can defy the laws of physics...

or so they will say.

and BTW, if Demon says your time is fishy, he's usually right, and don't argue.

so basically you have a aftermarket y pipe to make the car quicker...

Originally posted by tour96se:
so basically you have a aftermarket y pipe to make the car quicker...

That's what I've gathered from his mod list. The part I don't get is where he says that cutting the factor airbox is better than a heatshield and an open filter.

The MAF screen isn't going to net an HP, 18" wheels(more than likely heavier than the stock 16"s and tires) are going to slow him down. And with a 2.55 60' time, he'd be hard pressed to break 16's!

By the way, what was your mph?

Mark

Just a y is not going to net a tenth in 1/4 mile time, is it? I don't own a Contour so I wouldn't know (Mazda6.) But it seems to me with stock manifolds and exhaust, a new y won't do anything.

BTW, I've gotten a 15 flat with a 2.5 60ft before.........in the 6! I'm sure different gearing and power had something to with that though.

you obviously did read hiswhole post. he's got a kn filter, strut tower bars ,synthetic oil, etc!

Originally posted by tour96se:
so basically you have a aftermarket y pipe to make the car quicker...

I just don't get how a y, and BOSCH's are going to help him bring his 18" heavy-ass rims (even if they DO weigh less than stockers, though I doubt it) and 2.5X 60' time down to a 15.ANYTHING.

Ray

Yeah i have no idea how he says he's running a 15.08 .. I've got a basically stock (hp wise) SVT and i'll be happy if its under 16 at all. Granted shes got 130,000mi. But still, a full second is a HUGE difference.

Originally posted by Stylin55_oh:
Yeah i have no idea how he says he's running a 15.08 .. I've got a basically stock (hp wise) SVT and i'll be happy if its under 16 at all. Granted shes got 130,000mi. But still, a full second is a HUGE difference.

Don't stock 95 SE's hit 15.9 or seomthing like that?

Originally posted by elraido:
Don't stock 95 SE's hit 15.9 or seomthing like that?

NOT with a 2.5-2.6 60' time. That's the point.

The 1/4 mile time he is stated would be excellent for any SVT.
It's just not going to happen with such a horrible launch and 1-2 shift.

A 2.55 verses a 2.25 60' time will be nearly .5 seconds slower at the end of the 1/4 mile. So that's like stating a near stock SVT would run low 14's with a 2.1-2.2 60' time. NOT GOING TO HAPPEN!

mph on the 15.08 run was 89 mph. my best mph was 90.7. so nobodys doubting my mph its the et. Im not lying -why would i??? the mph is on par with others the et is lower. so the horsepower is average.(because mph = horsepower) guys, being close to sea level matters. also i dont know how experienced others are but ive been drag racing many many times in the past 12 years. how are you guys launching on street tires? ive read 3500rpm ... i rev it to about 5000 and slip the clutch./ not enough to burn it up./ the tires spin barely as the car propells forward and when the tires hook 100% the tach doesnt go down and the car doesnt bog. at that point the tach is around 5500 and then i slam 2nd hard at 6800rpm
-forgot about my Fidanza flywheel.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Stock is 15.3ish with perfect everything.

Normal is 15.5ish

Traps around 90mph.

so if thats stock why wouldnt you believe with my mods i could chop 2.5 tenths???

You obviously haven't paid any attention when drag racing, or you have a rigged track that gives people false hope! An 89mph trap with a 2.55 60' time would be around a 16.0-16.2! For you to run a 15.0 with the 60' time you had, you'd need to trap closer to ~96mph.

As for launching, good luck with your differential. With 3500rpm launches and reving to 5000rpms, you're sure to be either clutchless of diffless.

For an optimum launch, I rev to about 2800rpms. At the line I'll let the clutch pedal out until it's almost about to grab. Once ready(when I get the green), I start to slip the clutch and rev the motor to keep the rpms at about 2800-3100rpms. Once you've got a little momentum and you've completely let out on the clutch pedal, you'll be right at the point of your secondaries opening and your powerband begins. After that you're on your own.

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:

Originally posted by tour96se:
so basically you have a aftermarket y pipe to make the car quicker...

That's what I've gathered from his mod list. The part I don't get is where he says that cutting the factor airbox is better than a heatshield and an open filter. The MAF screen isn't going to net an HP, 18" wheels(more than likely heavier than the stock 16"s and tires) are going to slow him down. And with a 2.55 60' time, he'd be hard pressed to break 16's!

By the way, what was your mph?

Mark

i also have a fidanza flywheel.
the factory air box is shaped like a cone around the filter. it has a small hole at the end which is connected to the little elbow which runs into the fender(99 svt). what i did is put in a k+n cone style filter and took out the screen(had to do some fabbing to make the factory adapter fit snug against the maf)then i cut in a circle about 5 inches of the black plastic housing that surounds the filter off this gives it more air and sheilds it from heat.
total cost = $45 filter/labor=free /cut finger=free

this set-up will be for sale if anyone wants it as soon as i recieve my cc cold air intake.

I live AT sealevel, and every track I've ever been to is sealevel (I haven't had the ability to experience things such as Denver (from a racing perspective).

Sea level will NOT cut that time off FOR you. EVEN at sea level, you'd have to trap at ~95mph to get that time with a 2.5x 60'.

EDIT: I see Y2K beat me to it. I should've read it more thoroughly.

Ray

Originally posted by racerbox77:
the factory air box is shaped like a cone around the filter. it has a small hole at the end which is connected to the little elbow which runs into the fender(99 svt). what i did is put in a k+n cone style filter and took out the screen(had to do some fabbing to make the factory adapter fit snug against the maf)then i cut in a circle about 5 inches of the black plastic housing that surounds the filter off this gives it more air and sheilds it from heat.
total cost = $45 filter/labor=free /cut finger=free

this set-up will be for sale if anyone wants it as soon as i recieve my cc cold air intake.

I know exactly what you're talking about. I've had my SVT since it was brand spankin' new. First off, you're going to want to remove that little elbow in your intake, it's a pretty big restriction of airflow! What "CAI" are you going to be running? Is it the GMK unit?

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
You obviously haven't paid any attention when drag racing, or you have a rigged track that gives people false hope! An 89mph trap with a 2.55 60' time would be around a 16.0-16.2! For you to run a 15.0 with the 60' time you had, you'd need to trap closer to ~96mph.

------------------------"WRONG"

As for launching, good luck with your differential. With 3500rpm launches and reving to 5000rpms, you're sure to be either clutchless of diffless.

------------------------"MAYBE"

For an optimum launch, I rev to about 2800rpms. At the line I'll let the clutch pedal out until it's almost about to grab. Once ready(when I get the green), I start to slip the clutch and rev the motor to keep the rpms at about 2800-3100rpms. Once you've got a little momentum and you've completely let out on the clutch pedal, you'll be right at the point of your secondaries opening and your powerband begins. After that you're on your own.

Mark

------------------"YOU RUN ? W/ 3.0L???"

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:

Originally posted by racerbox77:
the factory air box is shaped like a cone around the filter. it has a small hole at the end which is connected to the little elbow which runs into the fender(99 svt). what i did is put in a k+n cone style filter and took out the screen(had to do some fabbing to make the factory adapter fit snug against the maf)then i cut in a circle about 5 inches of the black plastic housing that surounds the filter off this gives it more air and sheilds it from heat.
total cost = $45 filter/labor=free /cut finger=free

this set-up will be for sale if anyone wants it as soon as i recieve my cc cold air intake.

I know exactly what you're talking about. I've had my SVT since it was brand spankin' new. First off, you're going to want to remove that little elbow in your intake, it's a pretty big restriction of airflow! What "CAI" are you going to be running? Is it the GMK unit?

Mark

what elbow? the thing that used to go into the fender? its been awhile since that mod, i dont remember an elbow.
custom cougars cold air is the one.

Originally posted by racerbox77:
Ok guys went to the track last night fully expecting 14s with my newest mod(y-pipe). BUT it didnt happen 15.08 was my best and that was with my best 60 ft so far 2.55. (with my nitto neo gens Ray) every other run netted me the same times as before the y (15.12,15.21,15.14 at 89.7-90.5)

------------ WHOOPS! I meant 2.25, sorry..

Originally posted by racerbox77:
the factory air box is shaped like a cone around the filter. it has a small hole at the end which is connected to the little elbow which runs into the fender

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
I know exactly what you're talking about. I've had my SVT since it was brand spankin' new. First off, you're going to want to remove that little elbow in your intake, it's a pretty big restriction of airflow! What "CAI" are you going to be running? Is it the GMK unit?

Mark

Originally posted by racerbox77:
what elbow?

Are you serious?

Mark

Originally posted by racerbox77:

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
You obviously haven't paid any attention when drag racing, or you have a rigged track that gives people false hope! An 89mph trap with a 2.55 60' time would be around a 16.0-16.2! For you to run a 15.0 with the 60' time you had, you'd need to trap closer to ~96mph.

------------------------"WRONG"

No... that was right.. a trap of 95-96 would be REQUIRED to pull off a 15.0x with a 2.5x 60'.. plain and simple.

Originally posted by racerbox77:
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:

As for launching, good luck with your differential. With 3500rpm launches and reving to 5000rpms, you're sure to be either clutchless of diffless.

------------------------"MAYBE"

not a maybe.. your differential is SCREAMING at you to take it easy.

Ray

Originally posted by racerbox77:

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
1: You obviously haven't paid any attention when drag racing, or you have a rigged track that gives people false hope! An 89mph trap with a 2.55 60' time would be around a 16.0-16.2! For you to run a 15.0 with the 60' time you had, you'd need to trap closer to ~96mph.

------------------------"WRONG"

2: As for launching, good luck with your differential. With 3500rpm launches and reving to 5000rpms, you're sure to be either clutchless of diffless.

------------------------"MAYBE"

For an optimum launch, I rev to about 2800rpms. At the line I'll let the clutch pedal out until it's almost about to grab. Once ready(when I get the green), I start to slip the clutch and rev the motor to keep the rpms at about 2800-3100rpms. Once you've got a little momentum and you've completely let out on the clutch pedal, you'll be right at the point of your secondaries opening and your powerband begins. After that you're on your own.

Mark

3: ------------------"YOU RUN ? W/ 3.0L???"

1: Bold statement you've made there. First off, YES you are WRONG! You will NOT run a 15.0 with a 2.55 60' time. I now see that you've changed your mind on what you ran, and conveniently changed your 60' time to a 2.25. When you want to come back with your timeslip, we'll talk.

2: Maybe? You're not talking to a newbie that's never broken a part on his car! You're talking to someone that frequents the dragstrip probably 10-12 times a year, blown a motor, 2 trannies, etc.. I know what it takes to break parts!

3: I ran a 14.4 with my 3.0L. Can't wait to hear what you've got to say about that!

Again, when you want to come back with FACTS, and not made up BULLSH!T, we'll talk. Until then, STFU!

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:

Originally posted by racerbox77:
the factory air box is shaped like a cone around the filter. it has a small hole at the end which is connected to the little elbow which runs into the fender

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
I know exactly what you're talking about. I've had my SVT since it was brand spankin' new. First off, you're going to want to remove that little elbow in your intake, it's a pretty big restriction of airflow! What "CAI" are you going to be running? Is it the GMK unit?

Mark

Originally posted by racerbox77:
what elbow?

Are you serious?

Mark

i thought it was self explanitory that that piece was gone. what purpose would it serve if the filter housing wasnt conected to it anymore??

AGAIN 2.25 sorry bout that didnt realize my misprint.

2.5 would be a slow pass. agin not made up. dont care if you believe or not. well i guess i do care, because if it is soo hard to believe that im doing that, and i am, then i deserve props not bashing.
i know breaking stuff sucks. ive turned a wrench or 2.
also what was your 60 ? mph?

racerbox77 - I've come to the conclusion that you are not going to listen to anything I've said. I've tried helping you, but you are going about it like an ignorant newb. You've been on the boards for a mere 15 days and you think you know it all? I'm now backing away, and will let you believe your own fictional stories.

Mark

ignorant- no
lack of proof reading-yes
does it matter how long ive owned my car, or how long its been since i started posting on this board? yes -for contour specific things, but general car talk -no. So far my fastest car has been a 89 mustang 5.0 which ran 11.50s on slicks. then i had a 85 iroc-z which ran 11.90s, a 69 chevelle 12.20s, 96 saleen mustang 13.60s, 97 probe gts 15.20s, etc...my dad's car won the "Fastest Street Car Shootout" in 01' and we came in 2nd in 02' (8.19 @ 166 mph street legal)his web site is www.BOXPERFORMANCE.COM (check out the "TOOL BOX" section for horsepower calculators and top speed,etc. just trying to tell you i may know a little more than you think.
-check out the site...

anyway ill post slips hopefully tomorrow.

Nice stuff on that website. You say that is your dad? Cool. Is he ever going to do anything with front drive vehicles?

Originally posted by racerbox77:
TourdeForce sent me an email as to why exactly those plugs arent good. It made sense and I wont buy them again, but I just put them in about 500 miles ago. If I start to notice a problem Ill change them out for some Autolites, as he suggested.
Im about 45 minutes from Norwalk Raceway. You?

Originally posted by racerbox77:
Hey Mmarfan,
what was done to your SE? thats almost exactly what my car runs.(or ran, last time)

I'm more toward the Cincy area, so I'm much further away.

The SE had:
APEXi SAFC
SVT upper and lower honed and port matched
2.5 inch exhaust split to 2.25
short ram "cold" air intake
65mm throttle body (which is for sale if anyone wants it, it includes a TPS with it)
15 inch stock alloy SE style wheels.
Eibach springs/ Koni struts

Originally posted by warmonger:
Nice stuff on that website. You say that is your dad? Cool. Is he ever going to do anything with front drive vehicles?

yes, he does all types of cars, and bikes. he did a head for an srt neon just last week. he will do tour heads as well. well do mine, but im going to wait till the motor breaks before i pull them off.(the motor WILL break)

heres one of my slips. took pic w/ my phone.
[IMG]http://us.f605.mail.yahoo.com/ym/ShowLetter/file.bin[/IMG]

hope this works

OK guys here is my Car Domain site I just set up. The pics were taken w/ my Razor cell so there not great but for all you non believers click the link.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/1592122

what do ya think?

Originally posted by elraido:

Originally posted by Stylin55_oh:
Yeah i have no idea how he says he's running a 15.08 .. I've got a basically stock (hp wise) SVT and i'll be happy if its under 16 at all. Granted shes got 130,000mi. But still, a full second is a HUGE difference.

Don't stock 95 SE's hit 15.9 or seomthing like that?

No! They pull a 15.5 with a 2.5 60' Remember?

Originally posted by 98ford2L:

Originally posted by elraido:

Originally posted by Stylin55_oh:
Yeah i have no idea how he says he's running a 15.08 .. I've got a basically stock (hp wise) SVT and i'll be happy if its under 16 at all. Granted shes got 130,000mi. But still, a full second is a HUGE difference.

Don't stock 95 SE's hit 15.9 or seomthing like that?

No! They pull a 15.5 with a 2.5 60' Remember?

I already said it was a typo on my part. 2.25 not 2.5
"JEALOUSY IS A WASTED EMOTION"

IF that is your time slip then well done. That time slip is accurate to me. And if you ran it with your svt, then good job man.

Can I ask what you did to optimize your TPS, as it states on your cardomain site?

Mark

Originally posted by racerbox77:

Originally posted by 98ford2L:

Originally posted by elraido:

Originally posted by Stylin55_oh:
Yeah i have no idea how he says he's running a 15.08 .. I've got a basically stock (hp wise) SVT and i'll be happy if its under 16 at all. Granted shes got 130,000mi. But still, a full second is a HUGE difference.

Don't stock 95 SE's hit 15.9 or seomthing like that?

No! They pull a 15.5 with a 2.5 60' Remember?

I already said it was a typo on my part. 2.25 not 2.5
"JEALOUSY IS A WASTED EMOTION"

I wasn't actully insulting you, I was reffering to a kid who was one here a few weeks ago talking about how his 95se could pull a 15.5 with a 2.5 60'

So anyway back to you, nice times. And if people are jumping on you it's probably because they have experience, and comments like this don't help, even if you are a really good driver it just doesn't go over real well

Originally posted by racerbox77:
I guess im in that .9% of great drivers

hey i only made that comment because nobody believed me about the times. But i see your point it was a smart azz comment.

Y2KSVT i spose your being a condesending with your question about the tps but ill entertain it.
optimized TPS meaning stock it read .92 volts. i changed it to .98 just like i do to all the mustangs ive owned. not much but it helps.
im sure you know this, but to others reading this dont set it over .99 volts

Originally posted by racerbox77:
Y2KSVT i spose your being a condesending with your question about the tps but ill entertain it.
optimized TPS meaning stock it read .92 volts. i changed it to .98 just like i do to all the mustangs ive owned. not much but it helps.
im sure you know this, but to others reading this dont set it over .99 volts

You are kidding right?

This mod does nothing.

The PCM uses the TPS reading based on the percentage of TPS deviation from it's static (or starting/idle/base) reading.

That static reading could be .75v or .99v and 60% TPS is still 60% TPS.

Changing the static position of the TPS does nothing.

For instance: In the stock code +60% from static indicates you have reached WOT. Regardless of what "static" is to begin with.

If static is 15% then 75% indicates WOT.
If static is 20% then 80% indicates WOT.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by racerbox77:
Y2KSVT i spose your being a condesending with your question about the tps but ill entertain it.
optimized TPS meaning stock it read .92 volts. i changed it to .98 just like i do to all the mustangs ive owned. not much but it helps.
im sure you know this, but to others reading this dont set it over .99 volts

You are kidding right?

This mod does nothing.

The PCM uses the TPS reading based on the percentage of TPS deviation from it's static (or starting/idle/base) reading.

That static reading could be .75v or .99v and 60% TPS is still 60% TPS.

Changing the static position of the TPS does nothing.

For instance: In the stock code +60% from static indicates you have reached WOT. Regardless of what "static" is to begin with.

If static is 15% then 75% indicates WOT.
If static is 20% then 80% indicates WOT.

OUCH!!

Mark

if thats true then its news to me. i thought this was discused on ceg and determined to be a good mod. i know it has been talked about and agreed that this is a good thing many times in years past w/ stangs. anyway good or not i did it

If you haven't done it already, you might optimize the throttle body. It doesn't take very long, and is CHEAP!

Mark

doing that fri. along w/ custom cougars cold air. should be delivered by then. then its off to the track. if the cold air intake and throttle body dont get me in the 14s i think ill sell the car

Are the Custom Cougars and GMK intake the same thing? I'd take your car as late as you can for racing. Obviously, the cooler the air the better for this time of year.

Mark

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Are the Custom Cougars and GMK intake the same thing? I'd take your car as late as you can for racing. Obviously, the cooler the air the better for this time of year.

Mark

They are very similar,but the cc is cheaper and I think it looks nicer.

got my CC COLD AIR INTAKE on friday. what a pain in the azz to install. the adapter that bolts to the maf was about 1/2 smaller than the maf inlet. so i ground as much away on the adapter as i could w/o going threw. kit came w/o directions and short one hose clamp. the BIGGEST PROBLEM was that the egr hose connects BEFORE the maf on the cc kit. factory its after. well i thought this would be a problem and sure enough on my way to the track the cel came on. so i rigged it by routing the egr hose to the small nipple after the maf and extended the vent tube out to the large nipple on the adapter that bolts to the maf. then the car ran perfect. DOES ANYONE KNOW where i can buy a maf adapter that is larger in diameter on the maf side so it matches better but the same size on the inlet. i cant believe they would design the kit like this. but in the end i was happy. it was about 80 degrees last night when i reaped the benefits.

if you cant see the #s it says 14.96 at 90.8 mph. with a 2.16 60 ft. this was on the same street trim. when your 60 ft drops you would normally lose mph because the car has less time to accellerate.(thats why if the tires spin the car normally goes more mph) so that being said i should have gone about 88-89 mph on that run but seeing the 90.8mph tells me that cc is def. giving it more hp. didnt ahve time to optimize the tb ill do that sunday.
IM NOW A PART OF THE 14 SECOND CLUB.

OMG

Wait.. so.. because you were able to move your vehicle 60 FEET FASTER, you think you are going SLOWER at the end?

Ray

..you have no idea how to install this thing do you??? the only egr tube hooks to the exhaust maniflold..not the intake tube..the only thing that goes to the intake tube, are the two pcv hoses and the iac hose..the temp sensor hooks to the maf adaptor..

iac not egr my bad. that makes sense but the temp sensor is to small in diameter to fit in adapter hole. i guess ill make it fit.

Originally posted by Ray:
Wait.. so.. because you were able to move your vehicle 60 FEET FASTER, you think you are going SLOWER at the end?

Ray

let me reitterate, if a car makes two passes on the same day with the same mods. one run it goes 15.00 at 90 mph with a 2.3 60 ft(spinning not bogging). The next run it goes 14.8 at 88 with a 2.1 60 ft. the mph went down because the car has less time to gain speed. get it ?

Originally posted by racerbox77:

Originally posted by Ray:
Wait.. so.. because you were able to move your vehicle 60 FEET FASTER, you think you are going SLOWER at the end?

Ray

let me reitterate, if a car makes two passes on the same day with the same mods. one run it goes 15.00 at 90 mph with a 2.3 60 ft(spinning not bogging). The next run it goes 14.8 at 88 with a 2.1 60 ft. the mph went down because the car has less time to gain speed. get it ?

I'm not experienced in drag racing, but that just doesn't seem to make sense.

Originally posted by racerbox77:
iac not egr my bad. that makes sense but the temp sensor is to small in diameter to fit in adapter hole. i guess ill make it fit.

...thats better...everything lined up when we did bills..as far as the iat just you some silicone..

Originally posted by 98ford2L:

Originally posted by racerbox77:

Originally posted by Ray:
Wait.. so.. because you were able to move your vehicle 60 FEET FASTER, you think you are going SLOWER at the end?

Ray

let me reitterate, if a car makes two passes on the same day with the same mods. one run it goes 15.00 at 90 mph with a 2.3 60 ft(spinning not bogging). The next run it goes 14.8 at 88 with a 2.1 60 ft. the mph went down because the car has less time to gain speed. get it ?

I'm not experienced in drag racing, but that just doesn't seem to make sense.

well thats reality. if you dont believe me ask a veteran drag racer, hell ask Don Garlits.

lmao at bills smiley