i did a little search but didn't find to much so...what is the fastest cougar/contique non-svt 2.5?
oh yah in the 1/8th cause that is the only track around here, but i will be making a trip to a 1/4 mile very soon. i just wanted to know what to shoot for???
Aaron
i think it may have been mmarfan...he ran a 14.9 with his contour.
It used to be Demon SVT before he moved on to a 3L. IIRC, he had about a 14.45 1/4mi...
Originally posted by 99cougar:
so...what is the fastest cougar/contique non-svt 2.5?
ok so
non-SVT=14.9
SVT=14.4
Originally posted by 99cougar:
ok so
non-SVT=14.9
SVT=14.4
SVT 14.6
I thought he wanted NON-svt.
Fastest I have seen was a 15.2.....out of Joe (Formally HisSvt1....now Logan00).
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
i think it may have been mmarfan...he ran a 14.9 with his contour.
Close, I did get to a 15.012 @ 90.58. I was dying to get into the 14's, then I bought a 6... hehe 
fastest N/A non-SVT 2.5... <---Thread Title
Originally posted by S2Knott:
Demon has the fastest time 13.47!
http://home.kc.rr.com/newshore/Cars/SVT.html
13.47 was on a 3.0L, not a 2.5L
Mark
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
fastest N/A non-SVT 2.5... <---Thread Title
Originally posted by S2Knott:
Demon has the fastest time 13.47!
http://home.kc.rr.com/newshore/Cars/SVT.html
13.47 was on a 3.0L, not a 2.5L
Mark
And its not the fastest overall time now either (although still quite amazing of course).
it never was the fastest overall. it IS the fastest all motor but i believe a turbo contour pulled a 13.2 but i can't remember who...
I guess these cars are just not made for the track. But they still are super fun to drive!
I just look at these times and think, they are slooooow. But then again I am coming from DSM town were people get into the 12 kinda sorta lots. These cars are a much nicer ride if I do say so myself, just not as fast. If the SVT stock is about a second faster to 60, why is it only a half second faster to the 1/4? Or if I am misreading or misinformed please tell me what is the correct times.
TITLE: fastest N/A [B]non-SVT[/B]
Demon has an SVT
Originally posted by TourDeForce:
TITLE: fastest N/A non-SVT
Demon has an SVT
I know man. 
I am continually amazed at the number of folks that just do not know how to READ!!!
It is just down right scary some times.
I ran a 14.7 a loooooooooooooooooooong time ago. It was only a couple of months after the K.C. '99 meet where I ran a 15.9... Man, add a Superchip and get away from KCIR and pick up 1.2 seconds!
Yeah, these cars are sloooow. And boring.
But how about when Hot Rod magazine tested a new stock 271 HP HiPo Mustang in the 60's at an ET of like 15.8? Or when it tested a stock GT 350 back then at 14.7? Granted, it seems to be raining fast cars nowadays, but keep some perspective.
A stock 170 HP/MTX Contour should run just as quickly (though being much more fragile and not as easily modded into real monsters) as many historical "performance" cars did stock.
Originally posted by path914:
It used to be Demon SVT before he moved on to a 3L. IIRC, he had about a 14.45 1/4mi...
Sorry, read the title a little too quickly. My bad...
Originally posted by PDXSVT:
Yeah, these cars are sloooow. And boring.
But how about when Hot Rod magazine tested a new stock 271 HP HiPo Mustang in the 60's at an ET of like 15.8? Or when it tested a stock GT 350 back then at 14.7? Granted, it seems to be raining fast cars nowadays, but keep some perspective.
A stock 170 HP/MTX Contour should run just as quickly (though being much more fragile and not as easily modded into real monsters) as many historical "performance" cars did stock.
yeah and in the 60's they were running them on polyglass tires too....generally 14" and not very wide....now put some modern tires on there and see what times they run...
btw my brother has a '66 shelby gt 350 and i've seen it run 13's all day long...
Better tires did help alot with those old cars. Like how some people rented the Hertz Shelbys but kept a pair of drag slicks mounted on wheels to change over for a day at the drags.
Chrisilver: What rear end gear ratio is your brother running? Has he kept the ignition and carb stock?
Originally posted by PDXSVT:
Better tires did help alot with those old cars. Like how some people rented the Hertz Shelbys but kept a pair of drag slicks mounted on wheels to change over for a day at the drags.
Chrisilver: What rear end gear ratio is your brother running? Has he kept the ignition and carb stock?
i'll see what gear he's running.....his motor is pretty much stock,but it has been rebuilt,and he put a slightly better cam in,and a better carb,but i think that's it.....btw it is a 4 speed manual...
pretty sad a focus in running 11's and we have not got close
Bah... Screw focuses running 11's they are way lighter than SVT's, but There a couple 11 second maxipads and they are equal in weight if not slightly heavier...
It's just a matter of time though, someone is going to figure out how to get these cars to hook up and we'll look back and laugh at 13 second time slips...
yup
Maximas are lighter. Most years notably lighter.
Well at least until the latest generation.
Outstanding 4 door sedan!
They are able to hook up a lot better then we can.
Also their axles are about 5 times stronger then our design.
It's definitely one of the top FWD platforms. (Yes I had to throw the "F" word in there)
really........they look so much heavier like maybe 3200lbs or so......
Originally posted by PDXSVT:
Yeah, these cars are sloooow. And boring.
But how about when Hot Rod magazine tested a new stock 271 HP HiPo Mustang in the 60's at an ET of like 15.8? Or when it tested a stock GT 350 back then at 14.7? Granted, it seems to be raining fast cars nowadays, but keep some perspective.
A stock 170 HP/MTX Contour should run just as quickly (though being much more fragile and not as easily modded into real monsters) as many historical "performance" cars did stock.
I have three words in response to that: Bias Ply Tires.
Edit: after reading on, I noticed that was said a couple times before I got to it. BTW, the Camaro: 13 flat, 4:56 gears.
Originally posted by Quick_SVT:
Bah... Screw focuses running 11's they are way lighter than SVT's, but There a couple 11 second maxipads and they are equal in weight if not slightly heavier... It's just a matter of time though, someone is going to figure out how to get these cars to hook up and we'll look back and laugh at 13 second time slips...
Amen! That is what I'm saying. The current builds we do with some better tires and axles should propel the good driver into the high 12's, I'm confident of that. With a little weight reduction and the right tires I'm sure my car could do that. Trouble is I won't remove all the stereo equipment to compromize and make it faster! I'm spoiled.
War: Would I like to own what? The website, or the car?
Just asking..
Ray
Oh. I don't own the website...if that answers your question.
I've put an add in the classifieds on my ride, just debating my options.
Read the title!!!!
frikkin b00n's!!
Originally posted by S2Knott:
Demon has the fastest time 13.47!
http://home.kc.rr.com/newshore/Cars/SVT.html
I thought we were already done with that topic, there aren't that many fast N/A non-svt's right?
Just kidding man. I was sort of on topic before that though.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Maximas are lighter. Most years notably lighter.
got that right. Harold weighed his in at 2840 lbs in full street trim. And the drivetrain is extremely stronger than ours. He was still running stock axles after numerous track runs on slicks and putting down 538 whp, 603 wtq. Stock internals too.
But hes now sold it and is moving on too bigger and better things. Hes in the process of building a 1000 whp Lexus SC300.
but this is all kinda the fun about these cars, they aren't that fast and they arent everywhere running low times, so when they do pull something in the 13's (and soon hopefully the 12's)its really amazing and cool. atleast thats how i feel about these cars.
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Maximas are lighter. Most years notably lighter.
got that right. Harold weighed his in at 2840 lbs in full street trim. And the drivetrain is extremely stronger than ours. He was still running stock axles after numerous track runs on slicks and putting down 538 whp, 603 wtq. Stock internals too.
But hes now sold it and is moving on too bigger and better things. Hes in the process of building a 1000 whp Lexus SC300.
I just have a question. How many people have actually straight up broke the stock axles in drag racing?
I know the stage 2 axles from driveshaftshop were breaking, but how many people went and sheared their stock axles before going out and buying stage 2 axles?
I want to know because most people I know just went and bought the stage 2 axles because they just assumed the stock axles suck. Turns out, I've heard less people talking about stock axle breakage than I have the stage 2.
Same thing with the hubs too.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Maximas are lighter. Most years notably lighter.
got that right. Harold weighed his in at 2840 lbs in full street trim. And the drivetrain is extremely stronger than ours. He was still running stock axles after numerous track runs on slicks and putting down 538 whp, 603 wtq. Stock internals too.
But hes now sold it and is moving on too bigger and better things. Hes in the process of building a 1000 whp Lexus SC300.
I just have a question. How many people have actually straight up broke the stock axles in drag racing?
I know the stage 2 axles from driveshaftshop were breaking, but how many people went and sheared their stock axles before going out and buying stage 2 axles?
I want to know because most people I know just went and bought the stage 2 axles because they just assumed the stock axles suck. Turns out, I've heard less people talking about stock axle breakage than I have the stage 2.
Same thing with the hubs too.
This is exactly what I've been thinking the whole time.. Im guessing people are automatically going with the Stage II's as they expect to break the stock axles, or for peace of mind.. But I've wondered just how much the stock axles truely can handle..
Mark
i iave broken the stock axles. 2x on the driver's side and 1x on the passenger...
I broke both a stock axle and a GCK HD axle.
Both from launching.
I agree that there is no "overall" strength difference in any of the "currently" available axles. They all are limited by the size of the splined shaft.
I recommend GCK HD axles for replacements for broken stock units because the price is good (~$125) and they carry a lifetime warranty.
I agree that there is no "overall" strength difference in any of the "currently" available axles. They all are limited by the size of the splined shaft.
NOT ANY MORE...$1700 will fix it. pictures soon to come.
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
I agree that there is no "overall" strength difference in any of the "currently" available axles. They all are limited by the size of the splined shaft.
NOT ANY MORE...$1700 will fix it. pictures soon to come.
For $1700.00 do we atleast get a reacharound? 
Mark
Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
I agree that there is no "overall" strength difference in any of the "currently" available axles. They all are limited by the size of the splined shaft.
NOT ANY MORE...$1700 will fix it. pictures soon to come.
For $1700.00 do we atleast get a reacharound?
Mark
haha..lmao
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
I broke both a stock axle and a GCK HD axle.
Both from launching.
I recommend GCK HD axles for replacements for broken stock units because the price is good (~$125) and they carry a lifetime warranty.
mine has also been from launching, but i got mine from a parts place around here called carquest. are they nationwide...ever heard of them? i got mine for $70 apiece plus my broke stock one. if you do not give them the stock one they cahrge you a $106 core charge but hey if my car is already broke i have no problem going ahead and taking the broke one out and giving it to them right then.
$1700 for just axles.
Then the only improvement will be it doesn't break axles when it runs 13's...
Okay maybe high 12's...
Like we need another reminder why FWD sucks ass...
comes with hubs too..I will have them in three to five days. I will keep you guys posted.
I work down the road from their distribution center here in MN...I have found from friend and personal experience that a lot of their parts are over priced....but if what your saying is true about the axle/hubs....sounds like a pretty good price compared to $1700...even though it's not even close to comparing apples to apples.
OEM hub assembly (bearing, knuckle, hub itself is 227.00 from the dealer..
Comparatively.. yes.. not bad, but WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY*breath*AAAAAAAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY too expensive, still.
Ray
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
comes with hubs too..I will have them in three to five days.
Too bad that does not help the shaft that goes into the transmission. 
I broke that end both times!
what can you do about the shaft in to the transmission?
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
comes with hubs too..I will have them in three to five days.
Too bad that does not help the shaft that goes into the transmission.
I broke that end both times!
i think they are making everything out of 4340 chromoly.
yeah 4340 chromoly and then they do some process putting it in a vacuum to make it stronger and add something to it something like scandium? not sure, did not quite understand when he explained it to me but these things are not breaking. For some reason they do he will make me new ones.
he better, after $1700. . . .that's like a new set of rods+pistons. . ..
that's the end that i broke too is the one INSIDE the differential!
no i have a torsen...i went to the track and of the line i sheared of the splines inside the diff. Luckily there is a "peephole" in the middle that i could use a small punch to knock it out with!
why do you ask if it was a stock diff?
you sheared the splines on the axle? Or part of the diff.
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
you sheared the splines on the axle? Or part of the diff.
on the axle. Same thing happened to demon.
yeah thats not going to happen to to the material and strength of the 300m.
The draw for the lower stage axles comes from the increased torsional twist of the new center sections, not increased strength of the whole piece. That increase in twist is supposed to soften the blow to the trans end pieces... obviously, it's not soft enough for some people's power, traction, or wheel hop levels... GREG! LOL!
The $1700 axles sound like they will find the next weakest link in the system, which would probably be the custom hubs (Buckshot blew two custom hubs, not sure which stage they were though), or the diff gears that plagued Mumm Bros.'s Cougar... Money money money...
what was mumms running for diff gears?
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
what was mumms running for diff gears?
Special hardened ring and pinion after stripping several stock sets on road tracks. Not sure what diff they actually ran or it was a custom spool or something... Euro gear set which was closer ratio too. They also had solid motor mounts (made me a set a loooooooooooong time ago) and custom A-arms which eliminated a LOT of wheel hop.
i am not quite sure what the part they broke looks like does anyone have photos?
Originally posted by bnoon:
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
what was mumms running for diff gears?
Special hardened ring and pinion after stripping several stock sets on road tracks. Not sure what diff they actually ran or it was a custom spool or something... Euro gear set which was closer ratio too. They also had solid motor mounts (made me a set a loooooooooooong time ago) and custom A-arms which eliminated a LOT of wheel hop.
That's probably why they broke their final drive gears. Those will take the brunt of driveline shock if the motor is locked from moving since the final drive has the most play of any of the trans gears.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by bnoon:
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
what was mumms running for diff gears?
Special hardened ring and pinion after stripping several stock sets on road tracks. Not sure what diff they actually ran or it was a custom spool or something... Euro gear set which was closer ratio too. They also had solid motor mounts (made me a set a loooooooooooong time ago) and custom A-arms which eliminated a LOT of wheel hop.
That's probably why they broke their final drive gears. Those will take the brunt of driveline shock if the motor is locked from moving since the final drive has the most play of any of the trans gears.
That along with heim joints on tubular A arms, big fatty racing tires, 300 horse, and jammin gears to run down those Bimmers!!! They tried reinforced stock mounts and couldn't get the power down nearly as well... I never had any trouble with my solid engine mounts either... well, other than BUUUUUUUZZZZZZ BuuuhUUUUUUUUUUUUZZZZZZ Ba-wa-huZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ! <----- 1, 2, then skipping to 4th or 5th
Yeah! You make me want to get out and race tonight!
I'm pulling my rear mount tonight to fill it. I managed to find some hard assed polyurethane and I'm going to do it right this time and cut everything away.
I was very tempted to just do an exchange with that guy "pole..." but since I have to go under the car to lubricate everything and do some work, I may as well do it myself.
I went to the junkyard and got two new steering knuckles for $100. I've discovered that there is some damage to the drivers hub and passenger hub from when I had new wheel bearings pressed in. It has been causing a slight shudder in the front of the car so I am not taking any chances this time. It ends up being cheaper to get two knuckles with good bearings and hubs then to buy the stuff separately and have the stuff pressed again.
So I'm doing new hubs and filling the mount today. I'm adding a second sealed gellcell battery to the trunk today and improving some of the wiring.
After I get that done I'm going to build a new 70mm TB since I have the parts.
When I get the lower intake from SOMEONE I'm going to work on that thing to remove the secondaries and prep it to fit my converted ovalport heads.
Finally, I will install the new manifold with no secondaries and redyno. Then if I can, while I'm on the dyno I'll pull the 60mm TB and swap in the 70mm TB and then dyno again.
That should give me a before and after dyno of the manifold, then a dyno with the 70mm so that I can see what each one was worth.
After that I'm going to change out my turbo manifolds to some headers and dyno again to see what the final package looks like. If I get the SCT Racer package I'll truly have the ability to get the most out of my engine package.
So that is the plan.
Of course if anyone wants to buy it then, the price will be going up a little bit according to the amount of money I put into the new mods.
Originally posted by warmonger:
I'm pulling my rear mount tonight to fill it. I managed to find some hard assed polyurethane and I'm going to do it right this time and cut everything away.
If it "ain't" 94A it "ain't" sh~t...
Hardware store urethane is very soft.
It's probably harder than that! It is from the hardware store and it is quote, "once-cured it can be shaped by sanding and filing".
Other than this stuff, the best I could find was 60A. I debated that since I thought some flexibility might be best for NVH, but then I said screw it and went for the hard stuff just to make sure I don't have to do it again.
I cleaned out the mount last night and it was a beeeaaootch!
The urethane (flexible type) that I put in before had filled in the center of the two rubber disks and it was sooo tough to pull out! It made what should have been short work with a drill of about 5 minutes to get the stock rubber disc out to an hour process! And it was still flexible, like a damned rubber band. So I didn't achieve anything the last time but to make the stock rubber stuff more secure with no added stiffness.
All it probably did was preserve the stock rubber longer. Oh well, its out now and I'll be casting the new mount in an hour or so.
How long do I let this stuff cure for?
I used windshield poly, the guy was at my shop with that nice electric caulking gun (stuff is hard to squeeze) changing a windshield, so I asked a favor and it helped a lot with the hop and drivetrain movement, did front and rear.
I myself and some of the guys I know with crazy fast civics use the stock axles cuz the upgraded ones still broke almost as much with no warranty so a $60 replacement is much better then $400 (they keep spares with them at the track). I have broke my whole diff housing thou as well that sucks, fyi the whole assy from fords is much cheaper then buying separate parts, but of course atb is the way to go.
94A is the top end, 2 part casting compound and it takes days to fully cure. (2 days for minimum retention and 6-7 days to fully cure)
I would expect whatever urethane you picked up has the instructions on it.
If it's just a one part RTV style urethane I would expect the cure time to be significantly shorter. Though by the description it sounds like a 2 part compound.
If I fathomed a guess from your description I would say the stuff you picked up is most likely in the 80A - 88A range. (That's the very high end for urethane compound) The high durometer products only come in casting compound form.
The "typical" top end urethane like window weld or high end 3M products is only 60A. Most other mixtures are softer then that even.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
94A is the top end, 2 part casting compound and it takes days to fully cure. (2 days for minimum retention and 6-7 days to fully cure)
Where can you pick up the 94A stuff and what is it commonly used for?
Oh well. 12 hours later and the stuff is still liquidy. I'm bummed about that. I would rather it set by now. Some parts of it are starting to cure though it seems like jelly right now.
Don't worry, this stuff will be hard enough.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
If it "ain't" 94A it "ain't" sh~t...
Hardware store urethane is very soft.
Oh yeah?!?! Well, if they're made of urethane instead of metal they ain't ****! I would have thought you would have gone to tubular metal ones by now just from weight savings alone Greg! Be a MAN! Go for it!
Originally posted by zrated:
Where can you pick up the 94A stuff and what is it commonly used for?
Urethane Casting Compound. It's used for casting... 
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/109/html/3264.html
Originally posted by warmonger:
Oh well. 12 hours later and the stuff is still liquidy. I'm bummed about that. I would rather it set by now.
Was it two parts? (i.e. a compound)
If so did you mix up the entire batch or try to measure out both parts?
Originally posted by bnoon:
Oh yeah?!?! Well, if they're made of urethane instead of metal they ain't ****! I would have thought you would have gone to tubular metal ones by now just from weight savings alone Greg! Be a MAN! Go for it!
I have the aluminum front roll restrictor shell. Does that count for anything?
I did not want mounts harder then the tranny case they attach to. That's the reason I never used a solid torque brace.
The 94A mounts are extremely solid. If you haven't seen the mixture when hard it's very difficult to compare it to any common urethane. It's basically solid as steel with a small amount of vibration dampening. I was quite surprised when I first did mine.
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Urethane Casting Compound. It's used for casting...
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/109/html/3264.html
Yeah I kinda figured the casting thing out from the name
I was more concerned with where it was available besides ordering online. Is there any industrial suppliers or places that carry that kinda thing or should I just order it from McMaster?
Originally posted by bnoon:
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
If it "ain't" 94A it "ain't" sh~t...
Hardware store urethane is very soft.
Oh yeah?!?! Well, if they're made of urethane instead of metal they ain't ****! I would have thought you would have gone to tubular metal ones by now just from weight savings alone Greg! Be a MAN! Go for it!
I just turned down a aluminum insert for my rear mount. I'm gonna loctite that beeotch in tomorrow after work probably I might be making a few tubular mounts for the rest of the car.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Oh well. 12 hours later and the stuff is still liquidy.
did you get it from the link i gave you? if so something was done wrong, it SHOULD have cured to tough in about 2 hours and be fully hard(damn near rock) in 2 days.
IF you're using the 94a i sent you a link for, then you didn't mix it long enough, i had one episode where i mixed it for under the 2-minute's it suggests(i was rushing) and it was still soft a day later.
It's all good now. It was a temperature/humidity thing coupled with inexperience in mixing.
I should be putting it on tomorrow.
I know this is off topic but does anyone know what Suneil's Car runs in the 1/4. And one last question what is the fastest 1/4 you have heard from a svt contour N/A or turbo
Here: Originally posted by todras:
Or Suneil. No times though.
Originally posted by 99svtContourMan:
what is the fastest 1/4 you have heard from a svt contour N/A or turbo
13.4 NA
13.2 Turbo
so Demonsvt your N/A was 13.47 and the best turbo time you know of is 13.2. That doesn't seem right. If thats the case What do you think your car would run with a turbo.
13.4 is a great time for a N/A contour. I would like to see that without nos though. You would have to have some good horsepower to the ground to get that time with the weight of that car. I manage low 13's in a 2300 lb car, with 265+ hp at the wheels, and posi trac. There was a guy in the probe club I was in who pulled off a 13.1. I think he had a built J-spec motor with a 75 shot of nos though. It was nice to see a probe beat a mustang 5.0, z28 and a few other older muscle cars.
So, if Greg ran a 13.4 N/A.....how could his car have the giggle gas? Nitrous = Forced Induction or Nitrous doesn't = N/A either way...
Originally posted by dutchie:
13.4 is a great time for a N/A contour. I would like to see that without nos though.
There are only so many factors that effect track times, power, weight, gearing, traction, and driver experience. Power and weight are two of the big ones.
what I am saying is that those times would be hard to pull without nitrous. I, and anyone else who knows basic math, can tell you though, if a turbod CSVT runs a 13.2, a NA contour would need pretty close to the hp of the turbod car to make a time of 13.4. Building a 2.5 l duratec to those hp specs without turbo/super/nos would be a stretch.
That is just me making a statement based on experience and observation.
If he did pull those times, more power too him.
I understand what you are saying, I was just clarifying that N/A isn't with nitrous.
I am skeptical about Greg's times as well as I noted when he first posted them. Not because I do not think they are possible, but the time/mph just don't corralate for our platform. I know he has the time slip to prove it, but to me...its just weird....when the track opens up in KC I hope he pulls multipe 13.4Xs...
Originally posted by dutchie:
There are only so many factors that effect track times, power, weight, gearing, traction, and driver experience. Power and weight are two of the big ones.
what I am saying is that those times would be hard to pull without nitrous. I, and anyone else who knows basic math, can tell you though, if a turbod CSVT runs a 13.2, a NA contour would need pretty close to the hp of the turbod car to make a time of 13.4. Building a 2.5 l duratec to those hp specs without turbo/super/nos would be a stretch.
That is just me making a statement based on experience and observation.
If he did pull those times, more power too him.
I agree, N/A would not be with nitrous.
I agree, that's great if he is getting those times...but there are stats all over the place for other cars that make it hard to believe. Then again, I didn't believe the guy who pulled a 13.1 in the probe club until I saw his video.
my brother's (now dead) 2000 camaro ss made 330 hp @ around 5,800. Car weighed 3,400 lbs. 3.42:1 gears lim slip. 0-60 4.9-5.1, good quarter was 13.25 @107
An early 2000s 333hp M3 will run low 13 consistently, some high 12s with a driver.
A few guys in the zissan/datsun club run low 13s and high 12...but that is Twin turbo with other work.
Originally posted by dutchie:
13.4 is a great time for a N/A contour. I would like to see that without nos though. You would have to have some good horsepower to the ground to get that time with the weight of that car. I manage low 13's in a 2300 lb car, with 265+ hp at the wheels, and posi trac. There was a guy in the probe club I was in who pulled off a 13.1. I think he had a built J-spec motor with a 75 shot of nos though. It was nice to see a probe beat a mustang 5.0, z28 and a few other older muscle cars.
All the turbo cars are slipping through 1st and 2nd gear.
I ran a 13.8@109 on stock width 215/45-17 street tires that were old before I left for Iraq.
I have now installed 235/45-17s and I expect to improve that time by dropping the boost. I should trap lower but my traction will be improved and I can probably pull better than a 13.8xx.
Demon stated that he used drag radials. I have no idea what his motor puts down but I would expect that without any power adder he is at or abou 225-230 wHP with his fully programmable TWEECER tuning capability. The weight of his car should be around 3000 pounds.
By comparison, I ran 14.8x@96 with 206 wHP and piss poor racing skills with my 3L conversion and stock 215/50 tires.
My car weight was estimated at 3200 pounds because of the stereo system and spare tire, laptop in the car.
Demon managed a 14.8x with his 2.5L and stock tires, about 190 wHP I imagine. His car should have been about 3050 then.
I cannot expect that he could have significantly more than 230 wHP, but I know he has a lot more midrange torque.
Still, to pull 1.5 seconds off his 1/4 mile time and trapp 102-103MPH is quite impressive for only another 40 wHP.
So if he does have some nitrous then it is a sleeper kit.
I'm sure when he dyno's we'll be able to see why his motor is so strong.
Yeah, traction seems to be an issue in our cars, not to mention fwd cars in general. Although I've learned how to launch with a little practice. Speaking of, I test drove a new altima recently, talk about torque steer. makes it hard to drive in a straight line.
Drag radials do help alittle. I run fat racing slicks on the summer car once and awhile for traction, although I've had the datsun sideways through 3rd gear with those tires on completely dry pavement ...but that car is very light in the rear.
Tom, I understand what you are saying...correct me if I am wrong though....the cams is what mainly dictates how the powerband turns out. With that in mind, shouldn't a 13.4 CDW27 car be trapping ~105ish? a 'mere' 101 at 13.4 is a car with lots of torque and grip off the line and not much up top IMO.
As I've stated many times, I'm not discounting Greg, but my brain housing group just doesn't compute the time/mph factor.
Glad your back in the states and could leave the sandbox behind!
Originally posted by warmonger:
Originally posted by dutchie:
13.4 is a great time for a N/A contour. I would like to see that without nos though. You would have to have some good horsepower to the ground to get that time with the weight of that car. I manage low 13's in a 2300 lb car, with 265+ hp at the wheels, and posi trac. There was a guy in the probe club I was in who pulled off a 13.1. I think he had a built J-spec motor with a 75 shot of nos though. It was nice to see a probe beat a mustang 5.0, z28 and a few other older muscle cars.
All the turbo cars are slipping through 1st and 2nd gear.
I ran a I have now installed 235/45-17s and I expect to improve that time by dropping the boost. I should trap lower but my traction will be improved and I can probably pull better than a 13.8xx.
Demon stated that he used drag radials. I have no idea what his motor puts down but I would expect that without any power adder he is at or abou 225-230 wHP with his fully programmable TWEECER tuning capability. The weight of his car should be around 3000 pounds.
By comparison, I ran <a href="mailto:14.8x@96">13.8@109">13.8@109</a> on stock width 215/45-17 street tires that were old before I left for Iraq.
I have now installed 235/45-17s and I expect to improve that time by dropping the boost. I should trap lower but my traction will be improved and I can probably pull better than a 13.8xx.
Demon stated that he used drag radials. I have no idea what his motor puts down but I would expect that without any power adder he is at or abou 225-230 wHP with his fully programmable TWEECER tuning capability. The weight of his car should be around 3000 pounds.
By comparison, I ran <a href="mailto:14.8x@96 with 206 wHP and piss poor racing skills with my 3L conversion and stock 215/50 tires.
My car weight was estimated at 3200 pounds because of the stereo system and spare tire, laptop in the car.
Demon managed a 14.8x with his 2.5L and stock tires, about 190 wHP I imagine. His car should have been about 3050 then.
I cannot expect that he could have significantly more than 230 wHP, but I know he has a lot more midrange torque.
Still, to pull 1.5 seconds off his 1/4 mile time and trapp 102-103MPH is quite impressive for only another 40 wHP.
So if he does have some nitrous then it is a sleeper kit.
I'm sure when he dyno's we'll be able to see why his motor is so strong.
Originally posted by dutchie:
I, and anyone else who knows basic math, can tell you though, if a turbod CSVT runs a 13.2, a NA contour would need pretty close to the hp of the turbod car to make a time of 13.4.
Not necessarily.. Ive seen a 1400HP Viper that couldn't get into the 10's.. While I've seen pleanty of 500HP cars running high 10's.. The 1400HP Viper, like Burrita's Contour both have a heck of a time catching traction.. Greg also had drag radials the day he ran the 13.47.. He's also removed/transferred a lot of weight, while Burrita has(from what I can imagine) only added weight with all of the extra turbo/intercooler hardware.. Then you factor in the driver.. I can imagine Greg can row through the gears pretty well, proving excellent #'s everytime at the track.. So basically, these #'s aren't too far fetched, and with a good driver and some traction, a turbo SVT should easily be in the 12's..
Mark
Originally posted by 99svtContourMan:
I know this is off topic but does anyone know what Suneil's Car runs in the 1/4. And one last question what is the fastest 1/4 you have heard from a svt contour N/A or turbo
never drag raced. . . .
I agree, a turbod SVT should be able to be into the 12s....it just doesn't seem to be happening...? A N/A contour on the other hand is a different story. apart from traction, there just doesn't seem to be enough power.
like you said with the viper example, traction is an important issue. that;s why a lot of the muscle car guys tub and shorten the rear ends, reduce the pressure in the tires etc...which also makes for nice wheelies
.
IMO the only reason a turbo'd car has not broken 12's is driver related. They have more then enough power to get into the 12's.
For that matter look at the S/C cars. I do not even recall one that's even broken into the 13's. That's ranging from 260 to nearly 400 wheel HP in those cars as well. They should be well into the 13's. One of them perhaps even cracking 12's.
The bulk of the ET on this platform is made in the first 330' and that is all driver vs traction. A tenth or two can be made from smooth, fast shifting as well. That's NOT powershifting!
Well that's all taking for granted one doesn't shell an axle...
hey Demon...yah think a 3L with a decent setup and an above average driver with 100 shot and some nice radials could get into the 12's???
we might just see sometime...
I need money for a turbo kit, or the keys to one of these 350+HP monsters, THEN we'll see 12's!!!
Mark
Originally posted by 99cougar:
hey Demon...yah think a 3L with a decent setup and an above average driver with 100 shot and some nice radials could get into the 12's???
we might just see sometime...
I think you and I could both be competing for that in the near future, as I plan to put a 100 shot on my 3L.
Mark
or a 100 shot on what i plan to do...
And a supercharger on top of that!
Fo Shizzle!
Originally posted by svtProdigy:
or a 100 shot on what i plan to do...
That would be DOPE yo!! Better get 2 of the big bottles! He needs them by tonight! Just might have to overnight them from Japaaaan!
Originally posted by RTStabler51:
And a supercharger on top of that!
Fo Shizzle!Originally posted by svtProdigy:
or a 100 shot on what i plan to do...
Mark
Originally posted by 99cougar:
hey Demon...yah think a 3L with a decent setup and an above average driver with 100 shot and some nice radials could get into the 12's???
we might just see sometime...
or 13.4's????/?
ooops
Well, I am so glad too....that makes two of us. It is awesome to be home.
I've had a couple weeks now to get used to being a dru...er....back to the states and I'm better now.
I'm going to go outside and put on this motor mount now...now that I'm out of red wine that is.
Originally posted by warmonger:
or 13.4's????/?
ooops
Well I suppose that's better then owning a turbo 3L and running what... 13.9's
You may be making a heck of a lot more power then me but even at the end of a 1/4 mile straightaway you're still behind me. I won't even get started on adding corners to the course.
I never intended my car to be fast in the 1/4 mile. It's always been geared for handling and road racing. I consider myself a much better road course driver then drag strip driver.
BTW have you hopped up the Volvo yet?
You can take off from a dead stop pretty good, but don't even think that will save you from me in the twisties!
You won't be able to accelerate out of the corner into short straights the same way.
Besides, I'm a pretty darn good road course driver and the car is more than capable with the current suspension setup. It is pretty well balanced after all, the BAT euro kit. That, along with the new tires I put on. Those are killer. I am amazed at how much more grip a new set of tires with a little more rubber provide.
Besides, I have to get a multi-stage boost controller to stop wheelspin. NO other alternative. Honestly, I need a lower pressure spring in my wastegate and then use an external boost controller.
I'm still waiting on the Volvo to be delivered. It has been on order for 3.5 weeks now and I'm getting a bit impatient!
Originally posted by warmonger:
Honestly, I need a lower pressure spring in my wastegate and then use an external boost controller.
Now you are thinking with simplicity.
It is much easier to create an rpm or signal driven "vacuum leak" to raise the boost pressure.
Matter of fact Mitsubishi had a solenoid setup in the Conquest. That had a 3 way vacuum solenoid that limited boost in first gear. (i.e. whenever it was energized)
I just happen to have that solenoid in my electronics cabinet. I forget off hand but it was about a 3-5psi cut in boost from the factory 10psi. It was accomplished by offset pressure through the 3 ports.
I removed it when I went to a 2 port opposed vacuum diaphramed wastegate actuator. (internal wastegated turbo)
You wanna part with that solenoid?????
Originally posted by mmarfan:
Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
i think it may have been mmarfan...he ran a 14.9 with his contour.
Close, I did get to a 15.012 @ 90.58. I was dying to get into the 14's, then I bought a 6... hehe
I think I can beat this come April.
I ran a 15.8 @ 90 mph with a 2.5 60"
I'll see if I can dig up my timeslips.
I WILL BEAT THIS TIME! I forgot to realize that tomorrow I am installing my SVT LIM and Tb...and I didn't have the SVT upper when I ran last time.
Originally posted by warmonger:
Besides, I have to get a multi-stage boost controller to stop wheelspin. NO other alternative. Honestly, I need a lower pressure spring in my wastegate and then use an external boost controller.
I think you'll also gain traction without the secondaries in there and a larger TB. Whenever the secondaries pop open, the tires go BANG-ZING and try to spin off of the rim now, don't they? First and second gear? A slower/smoother transition to mid range torque will help a TON!
As Greg and I have always said, "Baaaah, secondaries!"
BTW, how does the Conquest control that solenoid? Microswitch on the linkage, or a timer circuit?
Originally posted by bnoon:
BTW, how does the Conquest control that solenoid? Microswitch on the linkage, or a timer circuit?
Just a simple switch on the shifter linkage at the shifter.
