Went to the Track - Good new & Bad new

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
out of curiousity, how does the previous 1/8th mph and et compare to this run?

Previous 1/8 mile was high 9.1 to low 9.2 range at 80.5-81mph.

That's why I think the tire slowed me down because on run 2 because I hit 9.01 but only 80.8

Even with a tick or two slower 60' then last spring I was 2 tenths faster in the 1/8 mile at that point!

I figure I have gained some power since spring with the custom intake pipe and better midrange tuning. My midrange is mean for a little 3L.

It was the axle.

Sheared right in two between the splines and the shoulder.

I will post pics as it's impressive to cleanly shear a piece of billet steel.

Wow, very nice times! Good thing it was just the axel and not something internal.

the guy in the vette must have sh!t a brick nearly gettin beat down the quarter by a n/a daily driven family car with an engine barely half the size of his. i wish i could have seen that. good show

Originally posted by SVT PETE:

Ridiculously awesome times, Greg.

Awesome Job bro...

You sure this wasn't at one of those notorious Canadian tracks?

WTG man, That is something to get on video. I'm sure there are many of us that would love to see a NA 13 second Contour scaring a corvette.

Awesome times Greg...sorry to hear of the misfortune though....I'm sure you'll still "attempt" to better those times!

I think you need to hit the dyno and see what that magic motor of yours is putting to the ground.

Good luck, and keep em' running strong you guys!

Here is those pictures of the axle.

Things are slow around here because I've been building a computer and reworking 2 others so everything is torn apart.

Plus we are getting ready for company next week.

The timing of this failure couldn't be any worse.

Oh well it should be fixed by Thursday. (waiting on axle)

Frame that axle on the wall of the garage!

Un-freakin-believeable for a N/A powered 'Tour (well, outside of one that hasn't been totally race-prepped and gutted).

wow, great times. shame the axle broke!!

That goes to show that an upgraded diff moves the wink link of the MTX75 out to the axels, no?

With stage 2 axels, where would the weak link move to? Gear teeth?

Wow that is a clean break, sure it wasn't a defect?

Nice times btw!

weak

j/k

I was at the track and can vouch for all of Greg's times. The scary thing is our track isn't great and isn't known as a "quick" track. The conditions were great and brought the density altitude near sea level. If humidity would have dropped and the sun came out, it would have been flat out ideal.

Greg's CSVT really moves and it's quite impressive. I could only wish to be as quick. I would have to do a 3.5 liter block swap to match his 3.0 liter times.

I believe Greg, because he's a blunt straight forward guy, BUT, with that said, I am just baffled at the .5 reduction in ET, but no improvement in MPH. I know Greg will prove my nay saying....

He had a flat rear tire the second run.

-Andy

...and his second run was a 13.7 :-) His first run was a 13.4

Originally posted by Andy W.:
He had a flat rear tire the second run.

-Andy

The only way an upgraded shaft is going to do any better is if the material is tougher or there is a better heat reat in the spline transition.

The fracture point is as the base of the splines on the diff gear input shaft - something you can't make bigger on the car as the diff gear cannot be made any larger to accept a larger spline. (Yes I was an axle shaft engineer for 5 years

)

So in conclusion, I hope that the Stage 2's or whatever have a better material and steel microstructure, as well as a higher hardness in the spline region - although going too hard or too deep on the case hardening will make it brittle and prone to fracture all over again.

Heat treating splins is always a bi-atch.

PS - awesome times Greg - my heart would've been coming out of my cheast in excitement if I had out-launched a Vette at the track!

The perfect Contour storm...."bad boy motor", great driving, optimal weather...

NICE!

stazi......forgive my possibly ignorant question here.......what about cryo treating the axles to improve strength? would something like that done to a heavier duty axle help?

Greg, any way of getting much-much bigger picture from you? I want to show it to someone, see what the expert's opinion is. Someone I know had done a great deal of research on the subject. In a nutshell the treatment produced a softer core and harder shell. That way the axle was always under internal stress and if it ever broke it would literally explode. On the upside it was handling the load which would otherwise require a substantially bigger axle. This was not for a car, but something bigger

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I believe Greg, because he's a blunt straight forward guy, BUT, with that said, I am just baffled at the .5 reduction in ET, but no improvement in MPH. I know Greg will prove my nay saying....

Best run to best run I actually improved nearly 1 mph from last spring.

Also the bulk of my time was made by half track. From half track on I was only a tenth or so quicker.

I was 75lbs lighter and I also hooked up in first and second.

It just goes to show you that my trap speed was maxed based on HP to weight because of all the traction issues in 1st and 2nd.
I didn't spin once in second this time out. A good indication of that is the 2nd run's 2.18 60' time but 9.0 1/8 @ 80.8 vs last spring's 2.17 60' time but only 9.17 1/8 and slightly faster 81.4x mph. Though the second run's mph could be slightly lower from the rear tire??? With the same 60' time it shows the car was much "quicker" from 60' to 660' even with the poor launch and messy 1-2 shift.
The extra spark tuning I did over the summer obviously added some mid range torque.

I made more ground right at the start which directly equals quicker ET and less time spinning the tires which can inflate trap speeds.

Last spring my quickest run (13.94) only trapped 101.1 but my fastest trap came on a run a couple tenths slower. The majority of my runs I trapped in the 100.5 - 101 range.
My previous 1/8 mile numbers were 80.5 to even a 81.8 mph. The higher the mph the slower the launch and 330' times were too. Less ground covered early so more time to accelerate to speed.

To plot the new & old best runs against each other.

New up by .13 to 60'
New up by .30 to 330' (65% of the gain from launch through the 2-3 shift!)
New up by .38 to 660'
New up by .43 to 1000'
New up by .47 to 1320'

That's 1 tenth gained on the top end showing that the bulk of my ET gain was mainly traction and being a chunk lighter in weight.

Even the extra trap speed gain was pretty much all done in the first 660' with nearly a direct carry over to the end. Considering past half track is all HP to weight verses drag it's not surprising I only picked up about another .2 mph verses my previous numbers when compared to the first 660'.

Who knows? Maybe I picked up the nail before the staging lanes before run 1 and I would have trapped 103mph??? I only checked my air pressure waiting in the tech line.

Okay 103's not likely but still...

i think it may be a defect in the shaft that broke like that. The last time i went to the track i broke both axles, this was last spring. The shaft on the driver's side broke of exactly like that, as a matter of fact i saved the piece that broke of. It is in my garage right now. The reason i say it may be a defect is beacause all i have as far as "power" mods go is an intake, crappy 2.25 borla exhaust and a lightened flywheel. I do have a different clutch and Torsen also. Who knows?

Cryo treating will not change the morphology of a Quench and Tempered axle shaft - so no it won't do squat for it.

Secondly, that failure is NOT a defect. I could whip out a copy of my spline shear stress calculation to show you that the stress concentration at the root of a spline tooth is extremely high (due to the high "k" factor that splines hve on stress calcs), and that ANY car could break those axles - maybe not the first time, but the cumulative fatiguing of the shaft at the spline root would eventually snap it like that. That break that Demon posted pictures of is a text-book example of a shaft fracture at a spline transition.

Like I said the only way to beat this phenomenon is as follows:
1) Larger spline diameter (not possible in this application)
2) Better spline root to relief transition (i.e. smoothing of the spline root) - expensive
3) Better quenching with a polymer instead of water to increase toughness and improve grain structure
4) Use of a 41xx series steel with higher concentration of chrome and molybdenum - also expensive for a production car with a common driveshaft across all V6 MTX lines.
5) Reduce shock loading

You need to remember (or learn if you're not an engineer) the effect of impulse/aka shock loading. i.e. Applying 100ftlb of torque to a shaft over 1 sec is 10x less damaging than applying it over 0.1sec (i.e. like in a launch at high rpm's)

hmmm...i wonder if the steel between the stage 1 and stage 2 axles are any different?

so demon, how much horsepower is your car making? I'm very curious...

Originally posted by TheGreatOne:
so demon, how much horsepower is your car making? I'm very curious...

Let's just say, since he removed the restrictor plate, the car's not quite street legal.

I'd like to thank Will Ferrell for that little bit of humor.

Mark

now if only greg had a red csvt we could call it the 'red dragon'.

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:

Originally posted by TheGreatOne:
so demon, how much horsepower is your car making? I'm very curious...

Let's just say, since he removed the restrictor plate, the car's not quite street legal.

I'd like to thank Will Ferrell for that little bit of humor.

Mark

HAHAHAAAAA!!!!!!!!!!!! That'd be F'n hilarious!

Here's the scripture off of SPMotorsports site for the drive axles...

STAGE 1
1117 billet inner housing with oversized Tripod, 4130 chrome-moly induction hardened bar, 1117 billet outer C.V. induction hardened, Thermoplastic Elastomer Duraboot spline plug inner C.V. design. Stage 1 NOT recommend for drag racing.

STAGE 2
1117 billet inner housing oversized tripod, race-proven chrome-moly 4340 torsional center, 4340 c-m outer C.V. induction hardened, Thermoplastic Elastomer Duraboot spline plug inner C.V. design.

Just thought i'd try and help out.

Robert

43xx series chrmoe-moly steel...pricey - but good!

my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

its part that connects into the knuckle.

Btw, instead of the red dragon, why dont we just call it the angry dragon.

haha, we'll see how many people get that one.

EDIT: durr...im a retard. Maybe i should look at the picture first.

Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

its part that connects into the knuckle.

Btw, instead of the red dragon, why dont we just call it the angry dragon. haha, we'll see how many people get that one.

no thats the part that connects to the tranny. look at the little snap ring on it

yep, i get the angry dragon joke. gross, but funny.

Like i said i broke mine that same exact way, and if he has a torsen, which i think me does, then in the diff there is a "blocker plate" to keep the two shafts apart. There is a small hole in the blocker plate just big enough for the right size punch to get it out. The only thing is you have to take out the other shaft and halfshaft to get the punch in there.

aaron

Originally posted by Russell-3L:

Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

its part that connects into the knuckle.

Btw, instead of the red dragon, why dont we just call it the angry dragon. haha, we'll see how many people get that one.

no thats the part that connects to the tranny. look at the little snap ring on it

Yeah that ring gave me hell...I think that is the piece that goes into the tranny...i look over my trans swap pics.

Originally posted by beyondloadedSE:
angry dragon

kleenex anyone?

The BIG problem is the inner tripod shaft is the one that breaks.

They need that made from 4340 or better.

Making the outer out of it does not fix the problem. Why are not both made from it if it's a "Stage 2"

Making the outer piece from 4340 does nothing by itself!

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

I had to tear the other side apart and knock it out with a center punch.

There is a small pass through hole in the differential.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by Y2KSVT:
Can't break that 101mph barrier can you? That's damn impressive though.
Anthony had called me to let me know and I could hardly believe it. It's too bad about the axle though.

I may have if I could have ran again with a full cool down and lots of ICE. Who knows???

Also that flat rear may have slowed the trap down in the second run??? Just speculation

Yes there were a lot of people there watching. I was stoked.

Wow! Congratulations. I am so pleased that you did so well. With a little luck and that extra timing you could theoretically have been looking at a 12.999
hehehe, I'm not expecting it but I think it is possible.

So you think that I will snap off my axles in my car if I run drag radials? I was going to actually run some drag slicks before I left but I couldn't find any rims to mount them on. I need to get some steelies and hook them up.
Let me know how that goes.

warmonger

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I believe Greg, because he's a blunt straight forward guy, BUT, with that said, I am just baffled at the .5 reduction in ET, but no improvement in MPH. I know Greg will prove my nay saying....

Thats not uncommon and makes sense. The top speed in the 1/4 is determined mostly by the power the car makes and the coefficient of drag among other things.
The launch won't affect overall top speed but it will seriously affect the ET. If you launch strong you get moving UP to speed quicker and it saves you a bunch of time.

I understand that, but fromy experience in the SHO community and here, most FWD cars, have much higher MPH than RWD cars, usually associated with a higher powerband better launch, etc. For example my buddy's sho ran a 13.39 @ 108. The CSVT has about the same powerband, but a little bit shorter gearing than the SHO, and I would obviously expect a drop in ET with the better traction, additionaly I would expect a few MPH increase. Again, I fully believe you can drop your et .1 or even .2 with no MPh gain (as I have with practice in my truck, first time at the track I ran a 13.3 @ 103 and my last time I ran a high 13.1 @ 103). It just seems odd to have a total et decrease of almost .5 seconds and no mph increase? And I thought I saw someone saw they were having problems with the timers....but, like I said, I know Greg will return to the track and prove me wrong. IMO, I just think the 13.70 is a more accurate time.

Originally posted by warmonger:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I believe Greg, because he's a blunt straight forward guy, BUT, with that said, I am just baffled at the .5 reduction in ET, but no improvement in MPH. I know Greg will prove my nay saying....

Thats not uncommon and makes sense. The top speed in the 1/4 is determined mostly by the power the car makes and the coefficient of drag among other things.
The launch won't affect overall top speed but it will seriously affect the ET. If you launch strong you get moving UP to speed quicker and it saves you a bunch of time.

Un frikin beleivable!! Makes me want to go spend 5000 on my car.

Please tell me SOMEBODY got a video of all this!!

I also was able to witness this amazing day at the track for demon! congrats again man.

When he staged for his 2nd run,the guy next to me said to his buddy, "what the hell is a escort doing here?"

I looked at him, and said, "That will be the fastest N/A escort you'll ever see."

After he saw demon run, he was in shock. it was great.

Great day at the track with lots of fast cars. glad to see its back on the road!!

Originally posted by dartsoccer8:
I am able to bare witness to Greg's 13.4!! congrats again man.

When he staged for his 2nd run,the guy next to me said to his buddy, "what the hell is a escort doing here?"

I looked at him, and said, "That will be the fastest N/A escort you'll ever see."

After he saw demon run, he was in shock. it was great.

Great day at the track with lots of fast cars. glad to see its back on the road!!

"That will be the fastest N/A escort you'll ever see."

Awesome.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
"That will be the fastest N/A escort you'll ever see."

Awesome.

I must have that ZX4 option package...

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The BIG problem is the inner tripod shaft is the one that breaks.

They need that made from 4340 or better.

Making the outer out of it does not fix the problem. Why are not both made from it if it's a "Stage 2"

Making the outer piece from 4340 does nothing by itself!

THis is what their website said-
This is our 300HP axle set for the Contour and Mondeo. designed for 300HP (maybe more) they are one solid set, center bars made from a high grade chrome moly designed to have more torsional twist (from our special heat treat) they are ready when you are. Using a different heat treat on the outer c.v. and using our oversized inner tripod these axles are ready. This axle can also be ordered in a special Road/Rally version. What we do it carefully polish and match the internals and use a special grease with vented boots (road/rally is an extra $100.00) email or call for ordering the road/rally system.

So, they apparently use an oversized inner tripod? Does that even help? I know of only BurritaSVT destroying these, but once again, that goes back to the shock coefficient Stazi was mentioning. . .sounds like no one could put slicks with 400+hp without destroying these axles. . . I'll go to the track with Tom when he's back to see if they can handle it, but I'm a bit leary. . .sounds like I'd have to baby the frist two gears and then play catch up on 3rd and 4th. . .

Originally posted by ssmumich00:

Originally posted by DemonSVT:
The BIG problem is the inner tripod shaft is the one that breaks.

They need that made from 4340 or better.

Making the outer out of it does not fix the problem. Why are not both made from it if it's a "Stage 2"

Making the outer piece from 4340 does nothing by itself!

So, they apparently use an oversized inner tripod? Does that even help?
I know of only BurritaSVT destroying these, but once again, that goes back to the shock coefficient Stazi was mentioning. .
sounds like no one could put slicks with 400+hp without destroying these axles.

The Stage 2 has THE SAME inner tripod that the Stage 1 has.
ONLY the outer is made from 4340 steel.

Why that cheaped out is beyond me but even still they chose the wrong one to make from 4340 because the inner is the weaker link!

Yes the oversized tripods and larger corresponding CV joint help eliminate that as the weakest link.
The first axle I damaged was an OEM and the inner CV was what failed.
The HD (Stage 1) axle failed at the inner spline while the larger CV's withstood the beatings. (many more beatings on street tires before the 3 drag radial runs)

Without replacing the entire tripod with one made from a stronger material the inner tripod will always be the weakest link.

You are correct that Stage 2 axles are a complete rip off and offer no gain in launching ability.
Even Stage 1 axles are a rip off because you can buy the exact same thing from GCK for $120 each (retail) with a lifetime warranty vs ~$400 a set with a "limited" 6mos rebuild warranty.

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

I had to tear the other side apart and knock it out with a center punch.

There is a small pass through hole in the differential.

Just thinking, couldnt you drill a hole in the part that broke. Tap it and use one of those body punches to pop it out?

I know what a pain in the azz it is to pull an axel.

Originally posted by dubkatz:

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by MapOfTaziFoSho:
my question is how'd you get the broken piece out of the trans? Or is that the CV side...I don't think it is...

I had to tear the other side apart and knock it out with a center punch.

There is a small pass through hole in the differential.

Just thinking, couldnt you drill a hole in the part that broke. Tap it and use one of those body punches to pop it out?
I know what a pain in the azz it is to pull an axel.

Pulling the other side took maybe 15 minutes.

It is a simple job.
Pop the tie rod, end link and ball joint. Then hit the 2 nuts for the carrier bearing. Pull the suspension off the ball joint and let it hang. Pull the intermediate shaft out far enough to let it clear.

Drilling into a piece of billet steel (even non chromium) and in that tight space would be a major PITA. Not to mention the metal shavings might drop into the transmission.
Then you still have to figure out a way to get a slide hammer to attach to the piece and when you do hope it doesn't break the attachment!

Greg, they say if you don't break every once in a while, you're not trying hard enough. Congrats on those new times, and keep on trying hard! You're almost fast enough to hang with my new combination slated for next spring...

Originally posted by ssmumich00:

So, they apparently use an oversized inner tripod? Does that even help? I know of only BurritaSVT destroying these, but once again, that goes back to the shock coefficient Stazi was mentioning. . .sounds like no one could put slicks with 400+hp without destroying these axles. . . I'll go to the track with Tom when he's back to see if they can handle it, but I'm a bit leary. . .sounds like I'd have to baby the frist two gears and then play catch up on 3rd and 4th. . .

Oh, does that sound fun!
If the two of us get together at a texas track here.....
I have plans too! I need to get some exhaust work done AND make up a new 70mm TB when I get back because I seem to have lost my old one ....

Lets make sure we do at least the first couple of runs on street gas so you don't go and blow me out of the water.
I'll try to get that crap done in the first 2-3 weeks of getting back so we won't have to wait long. Then I can see what happens just from some wider stock tires and exhaust/intake improvements.

yeah i know the feeling and mine was on street tires.........lol

Originally posted by BurritaSVT:
yeah i know the feeling and mine was on street tires.........lol

Interesting.

I see you broke your's on the other end...

Did you get a lot of wheel hop???

I just read the whole things -

Congrats on the passes Demon...

Have you looked into tuning your suspension a bit more?

You can drop alot of rotating mass in the rear and lessen rolling resitants (sp?) by using some narrow rear tires and skinny drag rubber like Moroso, M&H or M/T front runner tires.

It drops alot of unsprung weight and gives a decent boost in trap speed.

Also if you have balanced out the front suspension a bit and kill some chassis squat in the rear, you can cut some 1.9 and 1.8 60ft times on drag radials.

You also might consider switching to M&H or Mickey Thompson winkle-wall radials. They should dampen alot of wheel hop your getting now, when the side walls flex to take up some of the shock load. BFG and Nitto DR's don't flex at all in the sidewalls.

Check them out there -

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/strip.html

Originally posted by Anthony Thomas:
1. Congrats on the passes Demon...
2. Have you looked into tuning your suspension a bit more?
3. You can drop alot of rotating mass in the rear and lessen rolling resitants (sp?) by using some narrow rear tires and skinny drag rubber like Moroso, M&H or M/T front runner tires.
4. It drops alot of unsprung weight and gives a decent boost in trap speed.
5. Also if you have balanced out the front suspension a bit and kill some chassis squat in the rear, you can cut some 1.9 and 1.8 60ft times on drag radials.
6. You also might consider switching to M&H or Mickey Thompson winkle-wall radials. They should dampen alot of wheel hop your getting now, when the side walls flex to take up some of the shock load. BFG and Nitto DR's don't flex at all in the sidewalls.

1. Thank you

2. It is tuned. FOR Autocross and road racing. Just drag racing is irrelevant really. Well definitely in a FWD car!

3. See answer 2. A big waste of money IMO and definitely for my setup.

4. That's not as big deal in acceleration because it's not the drive wheels or causing extra drag because they are on the front. It does slightly lower rolling resistance. I ran with my rears at 42-44 psi to help achieve some of that same effect (i.e. riding on just the middle of the tire) and that's free.

5. I have No lift or dive. I have H&R's with Bilsteins!

6. Maybe for someone that wants to truly drag racing their heavy FWD touring platform. Slicks have a lot more rolling resistance so you need to seriously up the power level to over come that loss on the top end.
I know sub 2.0's are out there on DR's if the axles could hold it.
Heck even on the same axles if you slip the clutch a lot more. Letting the clutch take the initial brunt (more then just a simple slip too!

) should be good for sub 2.0's with the proper setup and power to weight.

My axle did not just "instantly" break. I slipped the clutch (apparently not enough

) and the car jumped forward and only when I rolled to full throttle did the axle twist. You can see the twist marks in the metal and then it just fractured from that point.

So slicks are at the bottom of the list after spending a grand or so on Stage 3+ axles. IMO money not worth it unless you jut had it to burn or had to have the FWD launching ability!
For those power mongers; with axles that held one would surely be the quickest car out there.

It's been proven it doesn't take monster power to be the quickest but just very good power to weight combined with better driving and traction.

I've never liked FWD and I like it less more and more.

I would love to see one of us install a set of radius arms. Honda people swear by them, and I think we would benefit more.

Looks like my car might just be the mule.

the ONLY advantage the atx has is during launches

when i had the atx I pulled a 2.2x 60' time, on bald snow tires, that will never happen w/ a mtx

with teh atx i launched by holding the gas and brakes and teh torque converter would stall at 3500 rpm

doing this it also pre-loads the drivetrain instead of an all-at-once shock like you get by dumping the clutch

btw my 2.2x 60" time the converter was only stalling about 3000 cause taht was after it was kinda messed up

Originally posted by Russell-3L:

with teh atx i launched by holding the gas and brakes and teh torque converter would stall at 3500 rpm

3500? Damn.

In my old Contour, also a V6 although not a 3.0, I'd be lucky to see 2300-2500 with the brakes holding back the car, and that was with the gas matted to the floor.

Even the Zetec I have now doesn't go near 3000 before stalling. How did you get yours so high?

-SAV

Originally posted by SAV-ZX2:

Originally posted by Russell-3L:

with teh atx i launched by holding the gas and brakes and teh torque converter would stall at 3500 rpm

3500? Damn.

In my old Contour, also a V6 although not a 3.0, I'd be lucky to see 2300-2500 with the brakes holding back the car, and that was with the gas matted to the floor.

Even the Zetec I have now doesn't go near 3000 before stalling. How did you get yours so high?

-SAV

i ahd my torque converter modified for a higher stall.

i went with a no-name company that was half the price of level 10, and thats why i had issues with it. you get what you pay for!

Quote:

I pulled a 2.2x 60' time, on bald snow tires, that will never happen w/ a mtx

Hey I got a 2.09 x 60" time and I was running 18' rims.

I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

In the contour right?

um...of course

Originally posted by Bronco_II:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

In the contour right?

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
um...of course
Originally posted by Bronco_II:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

In the contour right?

Weak!

Originally posted by mmars:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
um...of course
Originally posted by Bronco_II:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

In the contour right?

Weak!

Aw... Give 'em a break.

He has the aerodynamics of a brick and is pulling over 2 tons to boot.

He's got to be quick somewhere...

BTW there is a prime example of good ET with no trap speed. Torque to weight power baby...

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by mmars:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
um...of course
Originally posted by Bronco_II:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

In the contour right?

Weak!

Aw... Give 'em a break.

He has the aerodynamics of a brick and is pulling over 2 tons to boot.

He's got to be quick somewhere...

BTW there is a prime example of good ET with no trap speed. Torque to weight power baby...

Yeah, I'm just messin with him...

Now imagine how much it would slow down if I stuck my big head out the window :-)

And I think I can get a low 1.8 out of it on F1s if I take it to the track enough :-) alot of guys have pulled mid 1.7s on stock rubber :-)

Originally posted by DemonSVT:

Originally posted by mmars:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
um...of course
Originally posted by Bronco_II:

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
I get consistent 1.9X 60fts :-)

In the contour right?

Weak!

Aw... Give 'em a break.

He has the aerodynamics of a brick and is pulling over 2 tons to boot.

He's got to be quick somewhere...

BTW there is a prime example of good ET with no trap speed. Torque to weight power baby...

Originally posted by RTStabler51:
Now imagine how much it would slow down if I stuck my big head out the window :-)

And I think I can get a low 1.8 out of it on F1s if I take it to the track enough :-) alot of guys have pulled mid 1.7s on stock rubber :-)
Originally posted by DemonSVT:

thats is a really good track. around here stock lightnings can't cut past 2.1's.

I wish their was some video of the run with the c5. I have a friend that is always talking about corvette this corvette that (with an occasional reference to a RUF Porsche). It would be nice to throw some back at him.

Originally posted by nasty1:
I wish their was some video of the run with the c5. I have a friend that is always talking about corvette this corvette that (with an occasional reference to a RUF Porsche). It would be nice to throw some back at him.

You and me both!

If it had been a 1000' race I would have whooped him... IF...

That's a big if since IF the race was 1/2 mile it wouldn't have even been close.

I'm sure it still scared the hell out of him to almost lose to the family 4 door. I'm sure he wouldn't have heard the end of it.

Apparently the announcer implied I was going to get killed before the race started.
I wonder what he said when I was at half track and still handily ahead???

probably.......

i do believe i misjudged this family sedan

nice job man

Originally posted by Blackcoog:

Quote:

I pulled a 2.2x 60' time, on bald snow tires, that will never happen w/ a mtx

Hey I got a 2.09 x 60" time and I was running 18' rims.

Greg, you need to get up to Cedar Falls next year. The staging lanes are nice and smooth and plenty of grip. As for Chris' times (Blackcoog)... dude, every time you left the line I was waiting for a big POP! That thing was hoppin like a mutha!!!

Wow, I'm impressed!

Wijn

Congratulations...you really have done a fine job with getting the most out of that car.

FWIW, I broke my stock axle similar to that, and I was making a lot less power. I think its the wheel hop that really puts them over the top though.