Okay, here's the deal: The ATI deal is taking forever, but I think when and if it happens it will be a quality product, hopefully at a decent price. For those reasons, and the fact that ATI is a great company that has helped out CEGers before, I don't want to mess up that GB. So, for now, I'll say this is NOT a GB. If a) ATI wants to bail, which would be a shame, b) we can get enough people to do two GBs, or c) ATI can't com through at a good price, then this can happen. If people start dropping out of the ATI Aussie buy becuase of this, I will close it up and not release any details, so don't try to bail on the Aussie bar for this deal until we get things figured out.
The scoop: I talked to Company X. Company X can make sway bars for us. They can make a 7/8" solid swaybar that would be heavier than the Aussie and not quite as stiff: 15% less. However, if would be perfect for street cars as it would keep handling neutral even at higher speeds, and really, when you have 50lbs of subs, what's 2 more lbs of swaybar? I THINK this would be identical to the Addco bar you can buy now, but I can't get details from Addco: their loss. The onyl difference is Addco is $160 shipped, this bar would be $100 + ship. This would also be a great stiffness for road-racing, but serious racers might care about the extra weight. This bar is a good bit stiffer than the 20.5 (21)mm BAT bar.
They can also make a 1" hollow bar. This would be 15% STIFFER than the Aussie bar, and just a hair heavier. I would sell this for "off-road" use only, since it would be pretty serious. It would be the perfect bar for auto-cross, especially with Stazi's endlinks and the poly bushings. I've heard that the Aussie bar may be a little too much for high-speed racing, so this bar would probably be too much. However, for those that are running a pretty serious suspension set-up and want ALL the undesteer gone, this would be the stiffest bar ever made for the Contour/Cougar platform.
I can't see getting both of these made. Personally, I think that for most CEGers use, a $100 7/8" swaybar would add negligible weight (about the same as half a gallon of gas) and provide near-perfect all-around handling. Obviously SVTs with the smaller front bar, and cars with Stazi or other aftermarket endlinks would have more effective stiffness from this bar. This is what I would get, and I think it would be THE bang-for-the buck handling mod. The 1" hollow bar has a market, but there are very few hardcore auto-x racers here. However, if the Aussie bar falls through, this will be VERY close in specs to that. It's 340% stiffer than stock, the Aussie is 345% stiffer. Not a huge difference.
So, with enough people (Company X wants 50), we could run this GB for the 7/8" for people who aren't sure if they need the Aussie, or who can't wait; and keep the Aussie group bar rolling. So, if you are interested, please put yourself in one of four categories:
If you are in the Aussie GB:
1: I'll get the 1" if the Aussie GB falls through.
2: I'll get the 7/8" if the Aussie GB falls through.
3: I'll bail and go with the 7/8" bar.
If you aren't:
4: I'll sign up for the 7/8" right now.
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE YOURSELF FROM THE AUSSIE LIST!
I won't ruin two group buys by competing within CEG, and I won't sour relationships with ATI over this. If we do both, we'll only take option 3 from a few people, so both can happen.
im down for the 1", i am on the aussie bar gb and would like to stay there , but if it dosent end up working out ill take the 1".
Really, I'll take whatever gets produced first at a decent price. I don't know how harsh the 1" could be, but if it isn't too bad for street use and if it would get rid of understeer, thats the one I would prefer. I'm going to be in one of these one way or another, its just the first one gets the cash.
BTW: what about the bushings needed for your bars? Those going to be included?
It'll have bushings included, yes. And please, people, read about what swaybars do! They don't have anything to do with ride quality. They are used to tune the suspension for understeer/oversteer. For low-speed high-g cornering, you want more oversteer, for high-speed stuff oversteer is a little easier to come by, so a smaller rear bar is in order.
link to good thread on sway bar physics
ill be using for the street so id be fine with the 7/8th. id rather spend $100 than $250, plus not having to wait for a longgg time. i appreciate ATI's help but i think this would work out better for me personally.
all i know is ive got this big ol brand new subframe sitting in my backyard waiting for a sway bar to go in with it.
Im deff down for this Company X makin the 1" hollow bar. Put me down.
I'm down for the 1", i am on the aussie bar gb and would like to stay there , but if it dosent end up working out I'll take the 1".
$100
-B.
You are doing this the right way, and I want to be the first to thank you. Its nice to know there is a backup plan. I would really like to get mine by this summer though.
Originally posted by SvtEdwardo420:
im down for the 1", i am on the aussie bar gb and would like to stay there , but if it dosent end up working out ill take the 1".
Ditto
Whoops... I forgot to note that the 1" bar would be $130+ ship, with bushings... my bad.
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Whoops... I forgot to note that the 1" bar would be $130+ ship, with bushings... my bad.
Ill still take it! 
I would be in for the 1" bar.
-tropictour
I'm in for a 7/8" if the other GB falls through.
1 in bar if ATI can't pull it off. I have thier subframe and it is quality work.
2)I'll get the 7/8" if the Aussie GB falls through.
Okay, the other GB is not going anywhere, so forget that.
Here's the deal. I managed to find an Aussie bar, and it's great, but for non-autocross use, I think the ideal bang-for-the-buck suspension mod is the 7/8" solid bar. It's very nearly as stiff as the Aussie, and I think especially for SVTs with the 19mm front it will keep the balance more neutral at highway speed. The Aussie bar is lighter by a couple pounds, which is nice, but close to negligible. I'm pretty busy now, working a lot of overtime, but if someone would take over the GB, this could happen very quickly. PM me and I'll give you the contact info. They seem very easy to work with, and I'm sure this could be a great GB.
So here's the deal. IMHO, this is the way to go for anyone looking for a better street setup. At the price we're talking, it would be a no-brainer for anyone with a stock bar. Anyone who wants a 7/8" solid bar for $100+ship, with bushings, sign up. Anyone willing to make it happen sooner, PM me. We need 50 people.
Please, no general swaybar questions. I'm writing a swaybar FAQ that I'll post in suspension soon.
So you would get everything to install it for $100+shipping? If you can make it happen Im in because the other GB is not looking good.
-tropictour
It won't come with endlinks, but Stazi might want to offer a GB to go along with this. You don't need endlinks by any means, but they will be nicer than the stock ones, so I did mine while I was in there.
I'm in
1. 98_HO_Contour
2.
3.
4.
5.
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
I managed to find an Aussie bar, and it's great, but for non-autocross use I think the ideal bang-for-the-buck suspension mod is the 7/8" solid bar.
My SVT isn't a daily driver anymore; I use it on the street occasionally, but mostly it's for track days so I still want an "Aussie" bar. Tell you what, since you think the 7/8" solid bar is so good I�ll buy you a new 7/8" solid bar and you can send me your "Aussie" bar in exchange. Have we got a deal?
Sorry, I would have said non-auto-x/track use, but I assumed that people who track thier Contours probably have a firm enough grip on suspension tuning to know what works for them. I mean non-racing, and I said "bang for the buck", not "best". Obviously, if you race, and feel the need for that much roll resistance in the rear (some don't), then the Aussie is better. Is it worth 80-90% more, like it may end up costing if that GB ever goes through? Not for street use, IMHO. A 17% difference in roll stiffness, and ~3lbs extra weight isn't going to be noticeable on anything but the most finely-tuned car with the best driver. Honestly, I highly doubt if I swapped bars on you, you'd even notice. I wouldn't have bought an Aussie if I didn't get one used.
Again: The Aussie is a great bar, but you will never tell the difference on the street. Plus, you can actually get this bar...
Originally posted by 98_HO_Contour:
I'm in
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3.
4.
5.
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5.
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
I just want a bar, add me to this list. Please let this one go through, I want it before snow fly's. -B.
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
well i suppose i was a possible on the last one, go ahead and put me down as possible on this one, though now its more than likely!
Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
well i suppose i was a possible on the last one, go ahead and put me down as possible on this one, though now its more than likely!
In.
-tropictour
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
8. KingpinSVT - maybe
9. tropictour
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Quote:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
8. KingpinSVT - maybe
9. tropictour
10. Mkingracing
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
8. KingpinSVT - maybe
9. tropictour
10. Mkingracing
11. Blackfoot
has someone carried this over to NECO?
Originally posted by KingpinSVT:
has someone carried this over to NECO?
Not yet. I'll do so. Good thinking.
I guess add me to the list, but only if the ATI aussie bar falls through.
Originally posted by morbid:
I guess add me to the list, but only if the ATI aussie bar falls through.
Very High likely hood it will fall through.
Originally posted by Blackfoot:
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
8. KingpinSVT - maybe
9. tropictour
10. Mkingracing
11. Blackfoot
12. Morbid - if no Aussie.
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
8. KingpinSVT - maybe
9. tropictour
10. Mkingracing
11. Blackfoot
12. Morbid - if no Aussie.
13. lbizboy - NECO
14. SoonerLove - NECO
Please let me do all the list-adding now that I'm working two forums, otherwise it gets confusing and people get left out!
28% of the way to increased rear roll stiffness! 36 more people are out there, I know.
Is this list for the 1" or the 7/8"?
This is the 7/8". After installing my Aussie bar, I decided there is no way a Contour should ever have more rear roll resistance than that. A 7/8" solid (this one) or a 15/16" hollow (Aussie) are essentially the same except one is a little lighter. With either one, you will have more rollbar-induced bias to oversteer than you need, even with the 20mm non-SVT front bar. There are a huge number of other suspension parameters that need to be addressed before you can get more effective rear roll stiffness. I'm lifting my inside tire on tires that are not all that sticky, so until I get 60/40 weight distribution and much higher spring rates, I have as much stiffness as can be used by the car.
I don't know if you were hoping for the 1" or 7/8", but I thought I'd take this opportunity to state that testing has shown the Aussie to be very close to overkill, and that anything stiffer is of no benifit.
Well I have my custom 1" hollow, heat-treated bar in my car now -- and I love it. The weight difference between the solid BAT bar and mine is amazing, and even a few pounds on a suspension component does matter. My bars will be available for purchase next month, once I get back from Cougarfest and come with poly bushings and stronger endlinks (I've seen too many Cougars break the endlinks, so I designed new ones).
E1
Originally posted by EternalOne:
Well I have my custom 1" hollow, heat-treated bar in my car now -- and I love it. The weight difference between the solid BAT bar and mine is amazing, and even a few pounds on a suspension component does matter.
The swaybar is the one suspension component where weight is minimal in effect. The only unsprung weight on the thing is the ends, and then only 1/2 the weight counts since it's hinged.
Quote:
My bars will be available for purchase next month, once I get back from Cougarfest and come with poly bushings and stronger endlinks (I've seen too many Cougars break the endlinks, so I designed new ones).
E1
What's wrong with Stazis endlinks?
Please PM me! I'll cancel this to make yours happen if it's a better product. You omitted one major detail: wall thickness. How thick is the tubing you used? You bar could be either stiffer than the Aussie (bad thing!), or less stiff than the BAT (possibly bad). Fill me in on the details!
Remember people, stiffer is not always better! We have independant suspensions for a reason: why make them less independant? There is more than enough bar on a stock Contour to keep body roll in check, so the bars should be used for tuning of handling at the limits. However, spring rates, ride height, wheel size, tire choice: those all matter here too! There is no "right bar", but I feel the 21mm (13/16, really) BAT bar in the rear with the 19mm front SVT bar will provide the roll stiffness and handling balance that a high-end suspension needs. A 20mm front will work well with the Addco, BAT, or Aussie.
So please: stiffer is not better! Look at that picture above. If I used all four tires to corner, I could make it around the corner faster. I'm hoping to correct that with spring rates, but we'll see. Suspension tuning is just that: tuning. Extremes are NEVER good. Big wheels are bad, but really small wheels are slow too. Lots of camber helps you corner, but kills you in the straights... it's always something in the middle that will be the fastest.
1. 98_HO_Contour
2. SVT4STV
3. GetLuckier151
4. SvtEdwardo420
5. Res
6. RG
7. BlackwidowSVTT
8. KingpinSVT - maybe
9. tropictour
10. Mkingracing
11. Blackfoot
12. Morbid - if no Aussie.
13. lbizboy - NECO
14. SoonerLove - NECO
15. tnkgurl - NECO
16. predator - NECO
17. vodfan - NECO
18. aircougar - NECO
It seems there is no more interest. I don't know what happened to all the people waiting for the other GB, but I guess they don't want in. We don't have enough for my GB, but Eternal 1 says he can do something. I'd just order the Addco bar for $160 shipped from shox.com (you need to look under Contour) if you want it now, or wait for E1 if you don't need it until next season.
BTW:
My testing is complete, and I've determined a few things:
Aussie bar/Addco is way too much for stock suspension. BAT 21mm is a much better balance. This holds true for any springs with rates similar to stock as far as f/r stiffness ratios. The stock suspension is a compromise. Soft springs don't do well with heavy loads, so Ford put stiffer springs in the rear than the weight distribution would call for, so as to deal with rear seat passengers and trunk cargo. They balanced these springs with the stiff front swaybar. You can beef up the rear bar to match, but then you have rear rates that are too high, and you lose traction. This is a very nose-heavy car, so you'll never get really tail-happy like a Porsche or other rear-heavy car, but you'll tripod when cornering, which lifts the car off the ground and puts MORE weight on the overworked front tire, and you lose some of the benefits of the stiff bar.
With Ground Control coilovers, the rates go up much more in the front than the rear. They are balanced with the car at 65/35 (525#/280#) so that a race-ready car will get the best handling. The Aussie/Addco bar works perfectly with these spring rates. All four wheels stay put, but handling is neutral for a fwd 65/35 car.
That said, if you get the Addco/Aussie for street use, you'll probably not ever notice the extra stiffness, so it won't hurt you to get the Addco if E1 ever comes through for $100 or less. It's only during track time that you'll push it hard enough to see the difference.
hey all, per Phil's reco i ordered the Addco sway bar from shox.com yesterday for $129. i spoke with Daryl there this morning. he said that Addco was shocked to hear someone actually ordering one since they have never even made one before!
looks like i get to be the guinea pig on this one. they said itll take 4-8 weeks to be done. maybe if some more people order some things will speed up.
btw its 22mm bar. 1mm over the bat bar and not a 23mm stazi bar in sight
ps ill post pics when it comes in.
Originally posted by svt4stv:
I ordered the Addco sway bar from shox.com yesterday for $129. They said itll take 4-8 weeks to be done.
D'ya have any updates from Addco - after one month of waiting?
Question,
Would some type of subframe connector alleviate this "Tripoding" that you (auto-x fil) experienced?
Originally posted by R_G:
Originally posted by svt4stv:
I ordered the Addco sway bar from shox.com yesterday for $129. They said itll take 4-8 weeks to be done.
D'ya have any updates from Addco - after one month of waiting?
still waiting that reminds me i need to call and see what's up. they said it could take up to 8 weeks.
AutoXfil said subframe connectors could increase chances of tripoding but i discussed this with Stazi who said the opposite. he said the whole point of them is to keep all four wheels on the ground. 
I might be interested, pending the results of svt4stv's bar.
I have confiance in you, Auto-X-fil. I read all the post and I will buy the sway bar that you recomend me.
I have a 2000 Cougar V6 with Selex Gold suspension (total regulable) and front OMP strut bar. I sent you a PM. If you can make the process to sell me it with all necessary for installation.
hay yawl.
ive been lazy/busy/forgetful about posting this...
i finally received my Addco sway bar about two months ago. BUT, i only got to put it in a few weeks ago since we were still wrapping up my 3L.
i took pics of it outside of the box/car but didnt want to post them until it was in. i didnt want people to say "hey, that bar doesnt have the curve like the Aussie/stock bar. its not going to fit." and then it doesnt fit and i feel like a big dumb
anywho, it fits perfectly. that little curve in the bar is to clear the fuel hose but it fits just fine without the curve. it does not pinch the fuel hose, there is enough room for the two to live happily together above the subframe.
so without further ado....
only $148.00 get them while theyre hot!
i want an aussie bar..
The only reason i wouldent jump in on this GB is because i really dont want a new subframe because we all know the swaybar mounts are GOING to break... something i dont want to happen.
Originally posted by Tourige:
i want an aussie bar..
The only reason i wouldent jump in on this GB is because i really dont want a new subframe because we all know the swaybar mounts are GOING to break... something i dont want to happen.
You don't get it ... the stock sway bar will break the subframe mounting points ... what makes you think that the Aussie bar will not and this one will? Trust me, I tried in vain for months to get another production run on the Aussie bars, but it just didn't go through.
no, im saying if i got an Aussie bar then it would probably be worth it to reinforce the subframe.
Originally posted by Tourige:
no, im saying if i got an Aussie bar then it would probably be worth it to reinforce the subframe.
Gotcha ... the way that was worded had me thinking 
now that im thinking, couldent you get a shop to weld the stock ends so they would be stronger?