My brother gave me this beautiful 99 Contour sport, after it was T-Boned by another car, but besides the obvious damage, I also noticed the dashboard was warped. I have read that this is a common problem with contours from my year, I was planning on replacing it with a dashboard from the '00 model, has anyone done that, if so, how did it work out?
99 and 00 used the same dash so you won't gain anything. There have been many posts about this in the past, including how many have installed the now expired recall kit that somewhat repairs the dash.
Yep you want to install a 98 dash. That's what I'm looking to do as well.
Or you can buy the fix kit from Ford for ~$50 and fix the one you have for good. It'll take about 4-5 hours.
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Or you can buy the fix kit from Ford for ~$50 and fix the one you have for good. It'll take about 4-5 hours.
Looks like a$$ though.
After sitting in a car with the kit, I will strongly disagree.
It's not that bad, I hardly noticed it, the kit that is.
Somebody post pictures then, because I've never seen a good looking one but I know it was revised at one point.
Do you have any pics with the repaired dash?
I read that they changed the dash or made it from a different material in the 00 model. Won't replacing the dash with the same product eventually lead the the same result?
Originally posted by GOAT:
I read that they changed the dash or made it from a different material in the 00 model. Won't replacing the dash with the same product eventually lead the the same result?
Yes it would that is why you want a 98 dash if that's the route you are going to take.
You keep bringing up the '98 dash, have you verified the vent connections, hardware locations (especially around the glovebox), and air bag changes are all suitable for a swap? Not to be a dick but you haven't done this yet and you're recommending someone else try it.
I'll take some pics this weekend.
I'm simply recommending that if he wants to go through the trouble of a dash swap that this is the way to go. And BTW all the things that you mentioned are not a problem if your willing to do the work.
Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
I'm simply recommending that if he wants to go through the trouble of a dash swap that this is the way to go. And BTW all the things that you mentioned are not a problem if your willing to do the work.
That's the question I'm asking, what IS the work? Is it more than changing a '99 with a '99?
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
That's the question I'm asking, what IS the work? Is it more than changing a '99 with a '99?
Yep it's a little more work but not much. They didn't change much with the dash but the surface asthetics. The airbag is the biggest issue.
I was thinking about the interior of the svt, and I was thinking that if I get an svt, I would completely swap out the dash for a pre-98 mystique dash. I am sorry, but the contour dash is ugly. By dash I am talking about everything including the HVAC (ugly in contour) and where the cd player sits and the cupholders. Oh yeah, and the surroundings of the e-brake looks much better in the mystique, so I was just wondering if this swap is a possibility, because I know that would be my first mod. I am hoping to get an svt before the end of this summer.
Sorry if the way I said it came out wrong, but I dont see how you conour guys can stand that design.
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
You keep bringing up the '98 dash, have you verified the vent connections, hardware locations (especially around the glovebox), and air bag changes are all suitable for a swap? Not to be a dick but you haven't done this yet and you're recommending someone else try it.
I'll take some pics this weekend.
Did you get the pics taken? I ripped my dash out this weekend and rebonded it with 2 part epoxy. It seems to be holding well but I will still be doing the dash swap when I can find a suitable 98 replacement.
Yep, that's the crappy looking fix that I'm used to. Personally I don't like it, to each his own I guess. What fix is there for the dash warping/peeling up around the instrument cluster?
I am on my second dash & it is starting to warp now. However, this dash is also seperating near the glove box
! Sometimes it actually prevents me form open the glove box unless I push it out of the way. I also have 2 bubbles apearing at the gap just before the top of the air bag. Hard to explain without pictures, but my point is that I don't think the new vent piece by the windshield will help keep the whole dash from eventually pealing. I definately want to get this dash problem resolved, but I don't want to keep doing things that are only temporary fixes for a long term problem. I hope all of us together can come up with a good solution.
Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
... I ripped my dash out this weekend and rebonded ...
How difficult was it to remove the dash? Did you pull the steering wheel, etc? It just seems like a ton of work to me. Any imput, or after-thoughts will be appreciated.
It was not a very hard job. I had good instructions from the Ford service CD. I had to remove the center consoul and the steering coloum to remove the dash. Only tools required were a ratchet with 4" extension 7, 8 and 10mm sockets and a #30 torx bit or screwdriver. It helps to have a second hand when doing the reinstall (thank you Cheryl, my wife) to reconnect the hoses back there and placing the dash. It takes time to do it right so you need to have a full weekend to do it. The rebonding takes the most time because I found it is best to work in small sections.
PS. Your hands will get cut up a bit but that's expected.
Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
Yep, that's the crappy looking fix that I'm used to. Personally I don't like it, to each his own I guess. What fix is there for the dash warping/peeling up around the instrument cluster?
Hmm, should I tell you how to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster after you insult my car like that? 
I guess until you see one in person you'll never open your mind enough to realize that it really is a good fix to the problem. And unlike the hack jobs you keep talking about, this one is permanent.
BTW, to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster (AND AROUND THE GLOVE BOX) you will use rivets. Pull the dash material tight, drill a hole, install rivet, repeat. Be careful around the instrument cluster not to drill too deeply or you will penetrate the top of the dash; starting in the center above the cluster will yield the best results. When doing the glove box it is possible to install the rivets in such a way that they won't show--using masking tape mark where the location of the topmost part of the box side and install the rivets below this point.
Download this .pdf for a step by step guide on the dash R&R.
Originally posted by epattonm:
Originally posted by SVTCANUK:
... I ripped my dash out this weekend and rebonded ...
How difficult was it to remove the dash? Did you pull the steering wheel, etc? It just seems like a ton of work to me. Any imput, or after-thoughts will be appreciated.
You haven't fixed yours yet? 
The most frustrating part was getting the steering column reinstalled by myself. It has tabs you have to insert before you can start a bolt and makes it quite the fiddle. Offer a friend some beer and pizza and you two can knock this out in a day.
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Hmm, should I tell you how to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster after you insult my car like that?
I guess until you see one in person you'll never open your mind enough to realize that it really is a good fix to the problem. And unlike the hack jobs you keep talking about, this one is permanent.
BTW, to fix the peeling around the instrument cluster (AND AROUND THE GLOVE BOX) you will use rivets. Pull the dash material tight, drill a hole, install rivet, repeat. Be careful around the instrument cluster not to drill too deeply or you will penetrate the top of the dash; starting in the center above the cluster will yield the best results. When doing the glove box it is possible to install the rivets in such a way that they won't show--using masking tape mark where the location of the topmost part of the box side and install the rivets below this point.
The job I did is far from hack and exceeds anything that would come from Ford. It looks perfect and if I hadn't told you it was repaired you wouldn't be able to tell. BTW a much better way to repair the area around the cluster and of course the method that I used is to use 2 part epoxy 2 pieces of flexable wood moulding and some clamps. Apply epoxy use wood to avoid maring the surfaces and clamp. Don't need to worry about drilling holes too deep or crap like that and it's done in 5 minutes.
I'm interested in hearing about how you repair other areas that are peeling like around the airbag as mentioned earlier. Let me guess you decorate your dash with rivits and call it art.
Good on you for possibly devising a better solution than Ford. However, spend some summers in the southern US and let's see how the glue method withstands the heating cycles. Personally I'd much rather have a mechanical solution to this bonding problem in the defroster area, especially a solution that utilizes the metal subframe of the entire dash assembly as it's attachment point and not the plastic substrate underneath the foam.
The rivets around the instrument cluster and glovebox was, again, from the Ford documention. That information is posted above. I have no experience with warping around the air bag location and will not speak to a possible solution.
Based on all your posts from earlier in the thread I thought using a '98 dash was THE way to solve this problem, what are you doing repairing yours?
Originally posted by bigMoneyRacing:
Based on all your posts from earlier in the thread I thought using a '98 dash was THE way to solve this problem, what are you doing repairing yours?
Waiting for a suitable dash to become available. FYI it gets just as hot here in the summer as it is there. We don't all live in igloo's you know. BTW glue and epoxy are two different beasts that do similar jobs.
I cannot believe that is what everyone calls uber ugly, that is not that bad. When mine does go bad, I will use that. IMHO
I just think it would look better if it went from one side of the dash to the other and covered all of the area from the vents to the windshield, similar to the 98's and earlier. It just looks like a half a$$ed attempt IMO, by that I mean the design and not the install which looks professional.
LAST YEAR THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE DASHBOARD. I HAD MY 99 SE SPORT DASH REPLACED AT NO CHG. DUE TO THE RECALL. MINE WARPED AS WELL.
Originally posted by hiddendragonse:
LAST YEAR THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE DASHBOARD. I HAD MY 99 SE SPORT DASH REPLACED AT NO CHG. DUE TO THE RECALL. MINE WARPED AS WELL.
Recall has expired. They stopped replacing dashes and started fixing them.
looks better then mine i have that too on my 99 but they put the strip over that and pop ribbit it looks very sloppy
The dash on my 99 svt was warped when I bought it. Dealer replaced it under warranty but it took three overnight stays for them to get it right. They kept ordering the wrong one apparently.
Do you have to take the dash out to perform the Ford fix? If so, how hard is it to take out the dash?
Originally posted by FJI:
Do you have to take the dash out to perform the Ford fix? If so, how hard is it to take out the dash?
My understanding is that you only need to partially remove the dash for the Ford fix. It does not need to come completely out of the car, although if completely removed it would be easier to work with I would think. It's large and awkward to handle inside of the car.
Originally posted by FJI:
Do you have to take the dash out to perform the Ford fix? If so, how hard is it to take out the dash?
I've done it; you'll actually save time and get better results by removing the dash completely. Do a search for dash warp, tons of info out there on what's involved.
I wasn't able to pull the dash from the car completely, although I wish I could've. The wiring that runs down the passanger door couldn't be removed without tons of work... or so it seemed. Either way, mine's done.
Originally posted by epattonm:
I wasn't able to pull the dash from the car completely, although I wish I could've. The wiring that runs down the passanger door couldn't be removed without tons of work... or so it seemed. Either way, mine's done.
IIRC there are 3 plugs and some ground wires there, not much work at all.
Not in mine... I traced the wires all through the dash, then they come out from the dash and go right under the molding, without any transition. I wasn't able to disconnect all the wires coming from the firewall either. (driver's side). I wanted to take that thing out so bad... I spent 30 minutes trying to figure out how all the wires (the ones I couldn't remove) disconnect.
How'd fix come out? How long did it take you? Those videos help?
The fix came out good IMO. There are a couple things I would have done differently, but overall, it looks better than what the dealer would have done. The videos were good, but that pdf file was key. I am fairly good when it comes to tearing things apart, then putting them back together. I highly recommend someone else to help out. If my dad wasn't around to help me, I prolly wouldn't have it together yet. If anyone wants help doing this, PM me, or if it's within driving distance, I'll meet ya for a small fee (to cover gas), and some pizza.
I have searched all over the forums and have contacted multiple Ford dealers looking for the P/N for the Ford dash kit. No luck. Does anyone out there know the P/N? The dealers have not been able to help me get one, even with the Owner Notification Program number.
Thanks
This is right off my receipt, and yes, this is the newest, best (IMO) one. 1S2Z*5404282*DA
with a description of "320 KIT PAD"
Cost$69.77
I got mine from a Youngstown Dealer, and they have one or two more. So they could ship it there maybe. The Dealer is Donnell Ford
7955 Market St.
Youngstowm, OH 44512
(330) 726-9011 (for parts)
(888) 265-3673 (toll free)
Hope this helps someone!!
It's interesting to see how they did yours with that black piece on top....not sure if it matters, but I live in Jersey and the dealer did both mine and my friend's 99 mystique without using that black piece. The dash appears exactly how it was before except for slight dimples where i guess they used the rivets to pull it back down. The slight wave in the dash line in front of the defroster vent is hardly noticeable and may be a little more tolerable for those of you who hate the big black strip. Just my 2 cents. :-)
Thanks for the help with the P/N. This will get my Ford dealer on the ball.
When I had my dash repaired, they didn't use the black strip over the defroster vents. All I can see different is the addition of a small black strip where the dash butts up to the windshield. It isn't objectionable at all. I'm not aware of any pop rivits used....if they did, they did a good job.
