Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives
Posted By: HThomas Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 03:46 PM
I just bought a used 2000 SVT and love it. My SVT has 52,000 miles on it. I need some help diagnosing a problem. It has a high-rpm miss at part throttle.

As background, I have to admit I am a bit of an old-school car mechanic and engineer. My previous car was a 1966 Dodge Polara with a 225 slant six. I bought this car new when I got out of the Army. I have run this car into the ground as my sole daily driver, accumulating 388,000 miles over the last 35 years. I know the Polara like the back of my hand, as I have rebuilt the engine 5 times over the years.

I finally decided to pull the Polara??s plug and permanently park it in the ravine when rust problems finally won out over my band-aid welding and fabrication skills. The floor pan and frame rusted so severely that the A-pillar buckled and the roof folded a little bit.

Which brings me to the SVT Contour. What a cool car! I love that lusty engine. Plus that 6-speed tranny (6 speeds counting reverse, that is) is a dream to snick through. It is heaven-sent compared to the Polara??s 3 on the tree. I don??t know why so many people extol the virtues of Honda??s manual trannys; clearly the MTX75 in the SVT is the paragon of smoothness, compared to 35 year old column shifters.

But yesterday I noticed a high-rpm miss at part throttle. By high-rpm I mean anything over 2500 rpm. By the way, this motor really revs like a champ! The Polara seemed to like low revs, probably because of its 3.2 lb pistons or 4.312? stroke. I would never have dreamed of taking it up over 2500 rpm. Mercy me, the torture we inflict on these new cars! I have even heard that some cars can rev upwards of 6000 rpm now.

Anyway, there was a high rpm miss. So I moved the Contour into the barn and up on cinder blocks and got to work diagnosing my new dream chariot??s problem. Imagine my surprise when I opened the hood and found a plethora of things amiss.

For example, I could not find the distributor. And if I can??t find the distributor, then how can I set the vacuum advance? The Polara really responded well to lots of vacuum advance ?? that??s the coolest technology to come to distributors since spur gears for quiet operation and rubber gaskets to keep the rain and mice out.

I figured that if I had a misfire, I was missing one of three things: air, fuel, or spark. Air is okay, since the Polara??s 225 still runs, so there must be enough quality air around my barn. So then I checked fuel. I hooked up my Schrader valve pressure gage to the test port on the fuel rail. Imagine my surprise when I saw the fuel pressure at 42 psi and climbing! I immediately shut the engine off, since we all know that fuel pressure should never exceed 7 psi. That??s what the single pumper on the Polara always read. I am amazed those fuel lines didn??t burst right then and there. I have heard other reports of fiery cataclysm on the CEG lately, something about a hot tub incident, and I want no part of it.

Poking around the engine bay, I was amazed by the engine block. I had never seen a block looking so pale and silver in color. I have dabbled in metallurgy for years and I immediately recognized that this was not nodular or spherdoidal cast iron. I cut off a little chunk from a mounting tab near the tranny and sent it to the Metallurgy lab at work for some analysis. Imagine my surprise when I found that the block was made of A356 sand cast aluminum! This is the stuff of rocket science, this aluminum. I guess cars are really going space age now. I remember reading in Popular Science as a boy about how the first Jupiter lander was going to be made out of that stuff. And now it shows up on my new car. Do you think maybe I got a prototype piece that somehow slipped out of the R&D lab? Or did Ford recently take to selling prototype cars in response to financial woes?

A more pedestrian question: can the SVT??s brakes be converted to drums? I would like to change at least the back brakes to drums, maybe the fronts too, since drums did so well on all 4 corners of the Polara as long as I didn??t stop too quickly from highway speeds. I was averaging over 100k miles life on a set!

Have any other shade tree mechanics out there noticed that none of your wrenches fit the Contour that well? It seems like all my standard bits are just a little bit too small, or just a little bit too big. For example: to get the lug nuts off, the 7/8? socket seemed a little too big, so I had to forcefully pound on a 13/16? 6 point socket with a lead mallet. I am worried that I will have to repeat this abusive fitting procedure ever time I come across a new fastener. Will rod bolts and head studs take kindly to this? Or am I missing something here?

I dunno, maybe I should just give up on the SVT and fix the Polara instead. The SVT seems to have some fundamental design flaws, as outlined above. If I invested in a proper sheet metal brake and a lot of stainless sheet, I think I could refabricate significant portions of the frame and floor pan and have the Polara back as good as 1966 new. Then the $30 I just spent on new wing vent window weather-stripping wouldn??t go to waste.

What do you guys think?

-Harden Thomas
Posted By: caltour Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 04:12 PM
Hey, Harden. I totally enjoyed your post, it's great to start off the day with a good laugh! I was rolling on the ground after I read the part about the wrenches that don't fit, and the wonderful new space age metal, aluminum.

Congrats on keeping the Polara running for so long. That is a major accomplishment. I love good old V8 Americana too, but they have a way of turning back into the elements of which they are made.

Sorry I can't help with the missing at high RPMs. There is an amazing amount of knowledge and experience on this board, though, so you will get a lot of good info today from the members. I bet someone will advise you about the diagnostic computer codes our cars put out when there is a problem. Someone will probably also advise you about cleaning the MAF in the intake system.

Don't be alarmed if you also get some humor-challenged replies, too. It happens even on the best of forums.
Posted By: ScottK Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 04:27 PM
Hmmm, did you perhaps notice that your engine was pointing the wrong way too? Beleive it or not they actaully sent a few of these cars out of the factory with the engine installed (get this) sideways

Maybe since they forgot to put on the distributor and the carberator they got mixed up in the engine orientation too
1966 Dodge Polara for reference.

Member's prior post Hot Tub Tales
Posted By: TourDeForce Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 04:54 PM
Originally posted by caltour:
Hey, Harden. I totally enjoyed your post, it's great to start off the day with a good laugh! I was rolling on the ground after I read the part about the wrenches that don't fit, and the wonderful new space age metal, aluminum.

Congrats on keeping the Polara running for so long. That is a major accomplishment. I love good old V8 Americana too, but they have a way of turning back into the elements of which they are made.

Sorry I can't help with the missing at high RPMs. There is an amazing amount of knowledge and experience on this board, though, so you will get a lot of good info today from the members. I bet someone will advise you about the diagnostic computer codes our cars put out when there is a problem. Someone will probably also advise you about cleaning the MAF in the intake system.

Don't be alarmed if you also get some humor-challenged replies, too. It happens even on the best of forums.




My first suggestion to you is to pick up a Haynes manual from your local auto parts store. Lotsa good info in there on where to find the distributor & muffler bearings & such.

Now, the miss you describe may be plugs &/or wires. If you have not had them changed as yet, you may wish to consider Autolite APP764 plugs. They seem to work best in the V-6 Contour. There is a How-to in the FAQ section of CEG that will show you how to change the plugs with minimal fuss.

Wires, you have 3 choices (in order of preference):

1 Magnecore
2 Stock
3 Autolite Pro-Fit series
Posted By: ibub_dup1 Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 06:29 PM
is it april 1 already?
Posted By: Bud Miller Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 10:38 PM
Originally posted by HThomas:

Poking around the engine bay, I was amazed by the engine block. I had never seen a block looking so pale and silver in color. I have dabbled in metallurgy for years and I immediately recognized that this was not nodular or spherdoidal cast iron. I cut off a little chunk from a mounting tab near the tranny and sent it to the Metallurgy lab at work for some analysis. Imagine my surprise when I found that the block was made of A356 sand cast aluminum! This is the stuff of rocket science, this aluminum. I guess cars are really going space age now. I remember reading in Popular Science as a boy about how the first Jupiter lander was going to be made out of that stuff. And now it shows up on my new car. Do you think maybe I got a prototype piece that somehow slipped out of the R&D lab? Or did Ford recently take to selling prototype cars in response to financial woes?





Years ago I had a cousin who worked for Fords up in Michigain at the tractor plant. Back then, they were using lots of aluminum for tractor engines and transmission cases. Really surprised me, since I thought tractors depended on their "trench hugging weight" Ha Ha. But my cousin pointed out that the best shovel is a leightweight shovel. And I can't dispute that!

Bud Miller
** No mistake, it's a Mystique **
Posted By: Rogerm60 Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/15/04 10:48 PM
Originally posted by ibub:
is it april 1 already?




No, but I do remember somone saying to 'beware the Ides of march'.
Posted By: epattonm Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/16/04 04:43 PM
Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Originally posted by ibub:
is it april 1 already?




No, but I do remember somone saying to 'beware the Ides of march'.





HAHAHAHAHAHAHA ya, a weird, crippled man. What a great play.
Posted By: ibub_dup1 Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/16/04 06:11 PM
Originally posted by Rogerm60:
Originally posted by ibub:
is it april 1 already?




No, but I do remember somone saying to 'beware the Ides of march'.




ides of march? they did an old song called "vehicle", didn't they?
My thoughts on the "high rpm" miss are...

Spark Plugs, Wires (both already suggested)
Could be a bad coil pack
Maybe the intake needs cleaned, there's a how to on the main page

The intake cleaning that doesn't require removal of the intakes is easier and less time consuming. The manual removal of the intakes really isn't all that hard and most of the time spent is cleaning carbon/oil buildup out of the intakes.

Being a fuel injected car, that fuel pressure is probably fine. (im not farmiliar with what the pressure should be, but its not like a carbureted system)

There is no distributer. Almost everything on these cars is controlled by the computer (Timing, air-fuel ratios, etc.)

These motors do tend to like high RPMS due to the dual stage intake. As you may know, the intak system has primary and secondary ports. The primaries are always in use, but the secondaries open up at ~4000rpm. You should feel a little "kick" when accelerating over 4000rpm

Just as some background on this car, the duratec motor was designed by Porsche and Cosworth (Kudos for the secondaries). They are known to require maintenance but unless neglected are awesome cars. The heads have 4 valves per cylinder (2 intake, 2 exhaust) and are made of aluminum also. Hmmm... I think that's all the important stuff...

Quote:

I have even heard that some cars can rev upwards of 6000 rpm now.




Now, im sure you know this, but redline on these Duratec V6's is 6,750 rpm... (I think fuel cutoff is at 7k)


3.2lb. pistons...
Posted By: Bud Miller Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/16/04 11:04 PM
Originally posted by 99MystiqueATX:
Just as some background on this car, the duratec motor was designed by Porsche and Cosworth (Kudos for the secondaries). They are known to require maintenance but unless neglected are awesome cars.




Excellent point there MystiqueATX. That's one of the little known facts about Contour/Mystique development: that Porsche reluctantly turned over their motor design to Fords. I remember reading in the industry press when the Contour/Mystique was launched that Fords had spent six billion in development. Six billion! Part of that investiment must have gone to the Porsche motor. I'm not sure, but one can imagine the argumnets over whether to keep it air-cooled or go with liquid cooling. And I wonder why they decided to do a V-block rather than keep the boxer config. Hell, Subaru keeps the boxer alive in their sedans, so I think this may have been one of Fords and Porsch's biggest mistakes. Anyone else heard any rumours about this stuff???

Bud Miller

** No mistake, it's a mystique **
Posted By: btrautman Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 02:02 AM
1967 Chevelle with 400 block and 350 crank and rods destroked. 11.5 to 1 compression. Engine balanced and blueprinted. Hays traction ladder bars. Crane roller rocker arms and stud girdle set. Eldebrock torker manifold with 650 double pumper carb. 490 lift on cam 310 duration. Headers with glasspacks. Sitting at an idle I could press down on the gas pedal and let up and the engine would easily rev to 6 grand or so........just reminiscing?something I built up when I was 19?. Eventually sold the car when I went into the service. The ole boy that bought it took the motor and put it in his Corvette. Sold the body.

Off-topic I know...sorry.....





Posted By: Buzz Green Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 02:40 AM
Hey everyone, Buzz Green here, the undisputed king of Nascar. Speaking of Nascar, why wasn't the tour ever the body for Fords?

The missing at high rpms could be a few things...

Throttle position sensor, don't ask me why, that's what my textbook said. It doesn't seem to make sense to me, but maybe someone can make heads or tails out of it.

It sounds like you might be running a little rich, in which case I would use a octane booster, this should get your plugs nice and clean.

I have always been a bit of a shadetree myself, get the car running, drive around town about 10 miles, work on it some more, that's what I love about the tour, it's practically 3X better than that, consistantly. I mainly like to tear it apart, what's it worth having a car if you don't tear into it every now and then.

Personally I love the feeling of slamming the throttle to the floor, and dropping it from neutral to drive, this car is indestructable.

Has anyone used their tour to haul animals? I live on a farm, just wanted to know if it's a good idea or not. I was thinking nothing bigger than a llama. Well, gotta get back to my nascar videos.

Hope I answered your questions...

Buzz,

96.5 tour, NOS.
I think if the TPS was bad, it would throw a code being too rich or lean. It can only compensate something like 30% rich or lean before throwing a code. Wouldn't the TPS cause driveability problems as well?
Posted By: gearhead_dup1 Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 04:19 AM
Originally posted by HThomas:

A more pedestrian question: can the SVT??s brakes be converted to drums? I would like to change at least the back brakes to drums, maybe the fronts too
-Harden Thomas




I would recommend Ludwigs.....but be prepared for the loud booming sound you get when applying these brakes! You may also experience the very distubring but fortunately only occasional rimshot. It really wakes you up when it happens though.....
Posted By: TourDeForce Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 04:21 AM
Originally posted by Buzz Green:
Hey everyone, Buzz Green here, the undisputed king of Nascar. Speaking of Nascar, why wasn't the tour ever the body for Fords?

The missing at high rpms could be a few things...

Throttle position sensor, don't ask me why, that's what my textbook said. It doesn't seem to make sense to me, but maybe someone can make heads or tails out of it.

It sounds like you might be running a little rich, in which case I would use a octane booster, this should get your plugs nice and clean.

I have always been a bit of a shadetree myself, get the car running, drive around town about 10 miles, work on it some more, that's what I love about the tour, it's practically 3X better than that, consistantly. I mainly like to tear it apart, what's it worth having a car if you don't tear into it every now and then.

Personally I love the feeling of slamming the throttle to the floor, and dropping it from neutral to drive, this car is indestructable.

Has anyone used their tour to haul animals? I live on a farm, just wanted to know if it's a good idea or not. ...




OK, Buzz. First off, you're scaring us. Please don't scare us any more.

Towing with the Tour is not a great idea. It's a great car to drive & tear into & have fun with, but you'll note from the Tranaxle forum that the automatic tranny is a weak point if not maticulously maintained - and even then it can be problematic.

Neutral drops are also a really bad idea if you plan to keep the car for any length of time. I suppose that would be true for just about any car. Modern transmissions are not designed for any kind of consistant abuse.

That's it for now. See ya round Harden..er.. I mean Buzz.
Posted By: caltour Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 05:00 AM
Rumor: The A/C in Harden's 'Tour is driven by a two-hundred pound all-magnesium turbine he got out of a medium-sized Bell helicopter. The copter is said to have crashed on a remote portion of Harden's property in 1986, when Harden's ties to certain foreign rebel groups was being investigated by the CIA. Harden supposedly mounted the turbine on the roof of his 'Tour, along with a 500 psi cooling unit that came from a walk-in commercial fridge. Confirm or deny, Harden.
Posted By: SmoothSVT Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 05:05 AM
Deleted
Posted By: MarkO_dup1 Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 07:17 AM
troll. troll. troll. troll.
Posted By: HThomas Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 12:44 PM
OK guys, I think I got my problems all figured out.

First off, the local Snap-On rep told me all about these metric sockets. They are even cooler than those Gator bits I saw on TV. - they seem to fit quite well on the Contour. I wish someone had brought up that whole metric thing a while ago, because now about half of the fasteners on my SVT have been abused into rounded-off oblivion.

I have to apologize for my previous post (the long one). It seems that no one takes me seriously. I guess I was on a little bit of a rant that day. But I get that way some days when the wife revs up the microwave and the plate in my head starts itching.

I managed to track down that misfire. Turns out it was related to a grounding problem. I did a search here on the CEG and found a few posts about redoing the ground loops, so I did the same for my SVT. I bought about 18" of 2g copper wire at Home Racer's Depot, re-annealed it in my oven (better safe than sorry), and then installed it under my hood. I also added a variable impedance capacitor in series so I could fine tune the response. I did a couple of high-rpm blasts through the alley behind the party store and the problem seems to have gone away.

By the way, there was a lot of chatter earlier about the Ides of March. Dunno where that came from, but I know for a fact that it was the Kingston Trio that pioneered that song. Then apparently Iron Maiden and Bill Shakespeare ripped them off.

And lastly, I don't want to talk about helicopter turbines. That whole Sandinista chapter of my life is over. Someone needs to tell Mr. North that too.

-Harden
Posted By: Bud Miller Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/17/04 11:06 PM
[quote=Buzz Green
It sounds like you might be running a little rich, in which case I would use a octane booster, this should get your plugs nice and clean.




Good point Buzz. I wanted to reply sooner, but I had a job interview... at Steve's Tire up near Springfield. first things first! Ha ha.

One other excellent trick for removing carbon deposits from the pistons, spark plugs and valves is to trickle some water into the intake. I learned this trick a long time ago when my dear old Citation used to suffer from a combination of pre-ignition & combustion itching. Back then it was easy with TBI - just drip the water in the intake hole. With the the modern Contour/Mystique setup, I ususally just thread the hose up past the MAF, making sure not to tangle the butterflies. Start the motor and let it warm up at idle for about 30 minutes, then turn the water on. Not too much!! Just a trickle until you see steam coming out the exhaust pipes. Let that drip for about 20 minutes, feathering the throttle up to about three grand and back to idle. If you have an OBDII device, you can monitor richness and O2 ratio, which will tend to drift due to the supersaturated exhaust.

It works wonders. Clears the carbon out. Then you can do an old fashioned "italian tuneup" by driving the car and letting the motor bounce off the rev limiter a time or two. It's amazing the difference. It's completely reduced my need to run Octane Booster. Now just plain 86 octane at the Clark station is all I need. Isn't it great the way a little effort can really take care of problems.

Bud Miller

** No mystake, it's a Mystique **
Oh yea, I was gonna point that out. Probably 90% of parts on these cars require metric sockets.

I really don't see any point in converting to drum brakes. Disc brakes will stop better and are less prone to heat exhaustion.


Originally posted by HThomas:
I also added a variable impedance capacitor in series so I could fine tune the response.




Say what?? Im confused.
Harden, you're a funny bastard
Posted By: HThomas Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/18/04 12:41 PM
Quote:

I think if the TPS was bad, it would throw a code being too rich or lean. It can only compensate something like 30% rich or lean before throwing a code. Wouldn't the TPS cause driveability problems as well?




No, I verified it's not a TPS problem. I broke out the modern-day divining rod (also know as the Fluke multimeter) and measured voltage output as a function of throttle plate angular displacement. To measure that angle I just hooked up a little lightweight fish scale tension spring in series with a potentiometer to the throttle arm, measured spring extension as various throttle openings, and converted to degrees using the arctangent function in Excel. The resulting angle vs. volts transfer function is quite linear (albeit showing some hysteresis)and verifies that the TPS is ok.

Quote:

I really don't see any point in converting to drum brakes. Disc brakes will stop better and are less prone to heat exhaustion.




You totally missed the 50s, didn't you? Those drum brakes could last forever, baby. As you probably noticed with my Polara, I set my cars up for the long haul. So, as preventative maintenance, I figure drums will be a good swap, since they seem to last forever. Also, I can then sell my disks to one of those Zetec gomers that wants to upgrade and add another mod to their CEG signature. Lastly, have you been able to find any asbestos disk brake pads? No, I didn't think so. If you want the real deal (asbestos), you gotta go drums.

About the ground loop: I added the capacitor to act as a ground loop filter, to quell some of those grounding transients. I have heard that on cold start, the ground loop can get very spiky and even approach instability. And if the ground loop is iffy, then what about all the electronical circuits that reference it? Garbage in, garbage out. So I got this little capacitor at Radio Racer's Shack. The kid there was even nice enough to put my name, number, and address in their database so they can contact me about exciting offers in the future.

-Harden
Yea, only being 17, I guess I did miss the 50's

Maybe someone else can chime in about the about the life of their disc brakes, but from what i've seen they last quite well. My mystique has 61,000 miles on it and the disc brakes are perfectly fine. (Yes, I know that's nothing compared to what your polara had when you retired it) I guess it all depends on how hard you are on the brakes.

Oh yea, haven't they stopped using asbestos in brake "shoes" too?? I do believe asbestos causes cancer
Posted By: JEDsContour Re: Please help an old-school mechanic - 03/21/04 04:02 PM
Originally posted by 99MystiqueATX:
Oh yea, haven't they stopped using asbestos in brake "shoes" too?? I do believe asbestos causes cancer




Only when inhaled...
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