After listening to my autos teacher, who said my engine timing might have went bad and why my engine didnt start when I tried to start it, I went at it, in the 5°F Weather....
I got that timing belt redone, spent over a few hours, outside, in the cold, fixing it, before I put the serpentine belt on, I inspected, all 3 marks were perfect... Tried to start it, same problems... sounds like its about to (higher RPM than starter produces) then drops down to where you can hear the starter taking over.......
Any thoughts at all????
Specs are: 95 'Tour, 4Cyl, about 140,000 miles, Worked great the day before it did this! (this whole situation happened overnight...)
Ignition coil?
Took it to autozone "Oh its a good coil" I dont believe it....
Originally posted by LoCoZ:
Ignition coil?
Originally posted by KevContour:
Well bring one over!
Steve where are you? 
Right here, where are you?
Originally posted by bk4293:
Right here, where are you?
No small road trip today to drop off an ignition coil? 
When you turn the key to the second position, can you hear the fuel pump prime up?
Yes, that was the first thing I listened to, then it went off after it did its thing
Originally posted by LoCoZ:
Ignition coil?
NO!!! GAH! Ignition coil is perfect... Threw it into my mom's Ford Escort, that escort sounded better with my coil! I was hoping that escort wouldnt start at all... but to be safe I threw her coil into my contour, contour still sounded like S*** and wouldnt start. Thanks anyway for the offer on the ignition coil... I am OUT of ideas............... All that freezing in this 2°F Weather for nothing!!! I shoulda bought an Escort.... 
Could it be a bad fuel injector thats preventing the 'tour from starting? It sounds alot better since I did the timing belt, but still wont start (sounds the same, but I dont have to apply my foot on the accelerator.) I have also tried new spark plugs... Im fresh out of ideas...
You could try a shot of either or quick start into the Throttle bore to see if it fires? Its pretty simple...you have to have spark, and you have to have fuel. Are you sure when you installed the timing belt everthing was lined up?Give your tank some gasline anti-freeze and a light spray of either and see if it fires first. You could also have an injector electrical problem. Pull a plug if you like and see if your getting good spark.
i was told ether was bad for an EFI engine, tho I coulda been lied too... But I am getting spark, I used an old plug and just grounded it and it sparked
Either is not good for any engine, thats why I said a light spray or mist just to see if it fires, or you could even try some gas in a spray bottle use caution if you do that though. Hold the flap in the throttle open and give it a couple of squirts inside, then put the hose back on. So if your getting spark, then you have a fuel related problem.
Do you have any fuel pressure at your upper fuel lines???
You can check the little schrader valve by quickly depressing it to see if you have pressure. Wear safety glasses so you don't get any in your eyes.If working with fuel related problems always use common sense and caution.
Can you hear all the injectors clicking??? If you still come up empty...tow it in to the stealer for diagnosis, could be wiring related problem with the injectors.
Alright, today it started, 3 times (engine wasnt fully assembled so I couldnt keep it on long, Air cleaner, valve cover, and serpentine belt were all off)
Ok, got all that put back on, tried starting it, now sounds like I have a fuel pump problem, sounds really low pitched and wont turn off... Frozen over? it worked fine the 3 times i started it earlier? But I did not use any ether. Contour sounded great when it did start tho, it ran off an Escort LX charging system so I was able to keep it on while serpentine belt was off, It sounded better than the first time I had it running too... I am very lost...
Screwed around with it more, Noticed alot of weird things:
1. CEL Wont go on when key is turned to ON/RUN
2. Fuel pump makes weird noises
3. Fan goes to Low speed when key is turned to ON/RUN
4. Fan will not shut off, continiously on
5. All Fuses are good
Please help me before I lose it....
Originally posted by Big Poppa:
tow it in....
... to the junkyard
Man...this car is giving you major grief! I suggest the same... bone yard, or stealership, since you are unable to diagnois the problem or problems yourself. Not for the fact that you have not tried, but may be more than a job of a "BACKYARD" mechanic!
Yes... Though I wonder how hard it is do do my own fuel pump, and i hate doing a Forum-search.... takes too long
How about a bad PCM? the CEL doesnt go on, so wouldnt the PCM be to blame? And the fan being on when the key is at ON/RUN? (Im throwing ideas out of my head at the moment...)
Originally posted by KevContour:
Originally posted by Big Poppa:
tow it in....
... to the junkyard
Give it to me....I will fix it and use it for my beater!
Originally posted by KevContour:
Yes... Though I wonder how hard it is do do my own fuel pump, and i hate doing a Forum-search.... takes too long
Fuel Pumps not that hard a job, but why would you do the fuel pump if your not sure thats the problem?? Have you done a fuel pressure test? To see if the pump is at fault?
Could be a fuel pump...
Could be a PCM
Could be alot of things....
Did you try shootin some fuel into the intake??
Tell ya what...I,ll give ya $50.00 as is...and a booklet of bus tickets?
Well... before I do anything, I will check for voltage to the fuel pump first, and there is no fuel pressure, pressed down on the valve on the fuel line, nothin.... But right now the blame is on the PCM.... My CEL dont go on when key is at Run/ON... And my CEL bulb is fine (took my instrument panel out and took the CEL bulb, placed it in the ABS, and ABS light in the CEL, everything was fine.... very lost...
If fuel pressure is low, replace your fuel filter. Mine was mostly clogged. This simple repair made mine run like new....
It was just replaced in December
Originally posted by KevContour:
Well... before I do anything, I will check for voltage to the fuel pump first, and there is no fuel pressure, pressed down on the valve on the fuel line, nothin.... But right now the blame is on the PCM.... My CEL dont go on when key is at Run/ON... And my CEL bulb is fine (took my instrument panel out and took the CEL bulb, placed it in the ABS, and ABS light in the CEL, everything was fine.... very lost...
Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) power relay provides power to the PCM. The PCM power relay also provides reverse battery protection for the PCM and related actuator assemblies.
OPERATION
The PCM power relay is energized in "RUN" or "START" through the ignition switch. When energized, battery voltage (B+) flows through the relay. This voltage powers the PCM and its outputs.
When the ignition switch is turned "OFF", the relay de-energizes, stopping B+ to the PCM
My friend was a moron and put the jumper cables on the Escort backwards... saw a big spark when I plugged it on the contour b4 i clipped it and pulled it off quickly (Contour was on ACC to have the stereo on) Stereo turned off and back on quickly, and went back to the radio station... I hope it dont matter TOO much... But it was acting up before I jumped it.
Originally posted by KevContour:
My friend was a moron and put the jumper cables on the Escort backwards... saw a big spark when I plugged it on the contour b4 i clipped it and pulled it off quickly (Contour was on ACC to have the stereo on) Stereo turned off and back on quickly, and went back to the radio station... I hope it dont matter TOO much... But it was acting up before I jumped it.
Maybe you might want to check the PCM relay, although I think thats not your problem.There is also a fuel pump relay as well.
All the relays are fine (PCM, Fuel Pump... I took the relays and shoved it in the Horn relay port, and they worked fine when I honked the horn...) Since I have OBD-I, I tried doing the self-test and try to pull the codes with a voltmeter... i didnt get anywhere, and the CEL didnt come on (CEL still wont come on, and swapped CEL bulb with the ABS Bulb) no codes are going though, i just get .240 on the voltmeter, and nothing else... I think PCM is gone... Anyone else have a guess?
Instead of a voltmeter use a test light...and connect your jumper wire as instructed, hook your test light lead to the positive side of the battery and probe the correct port with your test light...That way you can sit in the car and watch the flashes of the light. The Module actually sends out a ground signal that is why it is important to test from your positive terminal off you battery, and probing the negative signal end of the connector. I don't doubt that you know that...just thought you might want to try it that way first.I will look at some diagrams of the contoller to see what else it could be.
Blame PCM? I just came in from screwing around with my contour, and listening to the stereo on ACC w/ stereo on loud... I was about to go in, decided to turn the key to Run, and the CEL came on and the Fuel pump you could hear came on, I ran the battery low though and had to jump it, After it almost starting, the car goes back to the way it was (no CEL on Run, no fuel pump, Cooling fan on Low speed) It kept toggling on and off, and when it was on, the contour was about to start, then it goes back into "Broken" mode... Is this a sure sign of a bad PCM?
Today I pulled out my PCM (had to get serial number off it) and I decided to turn the car back on, it has the same effect with the PCM in, but would feel better if I had it tested, anyone know how to get these things tested? And anyone here do it before?
You know, the PCM has no control over the fuel pump on a 95.
Maybe you should be checking the wiring out under the AUX box. Ignition, fan, PCM, and fuel pump power are routed through there.
Are you sure? Pretty sure the PCM also controls the fuel pump as well on the 95's... Because I remember reading how if there is a failure, PCM goes into a "Limp-Mode" making fuel pump constantly run even if engine is off and key is on Run mode, but when no errors, PCM puts it in normal mode, could be wrong
(also there are error codes for a fuel pump for the OBD-I (which im told only a 95 has OBD-I))
Originally posted by KevContour:
Blame PCM? I just came in from screwing around with my contour, and listening to the stereo on ACC w/ stereo on loud... I was about to go in, decided to turn the key to Run, and the CEL came on and the Fuel pump you could hear came on, I ran the battery low though and had to jump it, After it almost starting, the car goes back to the way it was (no CEL on Run, no fuel pump, Cooling fan on Low speed) It kept toggling on and off, and when it was on, the contour was about to start, then it goes back into "Broken" mode... Is this a sure sign of a bad PCM?
What year is your Contour? The junkyard had some PCMs for $30....Ford told me the reflash would be $80.
OK, now for the trick question. Look at the wires in your engine bay, are the wires bare, is the insulatino falling off? If so this could be your problem. Check the wiring on the passenger firewall in the engine bay going to the pcm. Are they bare, pinched, insulation falling off. Jigle these wires while trying to start, does it make a difference?
i noticed the insulation was bad on the fuel injectors awhile ago, I just cut the cover for the wiring, and put electrical tape... worked for a few... Dont know about now, I just put 5 gallons of gas in the car, and added some Heet, maybe it may help....
How many miles is on your car. If the insulation is falling off of your wiring it is covered under and extended warranty to 100,000 miles or so......My car would not start, or at times it would start and at others it would not, drove me nuts until i touched the wires on the firwall and it started right up. hit a bump and the car would quit.
I have a 95 2.5l contour.
Originally posted by KevContour:
Any thoughts at all????
Specs are: 95 'Tour, 4Cyl, about 140,000 miles , Worked great the day before it did this! (this whole situation happened overnight...)
I reread all your posts. If you pressed the valve on your fuel line and no fuel came out then you have NO fuel pressure. Check this again and see if this is the case...fuel should squirt out in a steady high pressure steam. If it doesn't replace your fuel filter again and make sure it is installed correctly.
Once you are passed this point, I would take another look at your fuel injector wiring harness. Move or jigle it the best you can to see if the engine starts. If it does then you need to replace this harness....about 300 dollars or so for this gem. I would venture either you have a fuel supply problem or wiring issues that are causing your problem.
I did try that again, when the PCM appears to be working (CEL came on and heard fuel pump go on) Fuel pressure is good. But I came down to the conclusion my wiring harness is defective... And since the contour is a 95 w/ about 140,000 miles, they wont accept it, Though Ford said my contour had the wiring harness recall done...
Got pictures of my defective wiring harness, it appears to be everywhere, not just some lines....
Ignition Coil Connection
These fell off... I tried to retape em back on awhile ago... But goes to the Power Steering sensor
These are for the fuel injectors, all of them are this way
Coolant Tempature Sensor, believe this tells the PCM how hot the coolant is, and to turn the fan on or off... Probaly why my fan never went on with this plugged in.
Now I called Ford, Ford told me, the wiring harness recall was performed on this car, (Appearently not, or else they better look into the replaced harnesses!)
I just thought I would share this, might help someone in the future. Hopefully the contour will start after I replace this, since Ford wont since im over the warranty milage....
