Has anyone ever changed the plugs themselves

Originally posted by hiddendragonse:
I was reading in the manual and they make it seem that you need to take it in. Has anyone done it before? What are the pitfalls to avoid changin them?

Nope people here just swap in 3L's......j/k welcome to CEG

Originally posted by TourDeForce:
4 or 6 cyl - it is not difficult to do yourself. Here are some pointers that will make it easy for you.

The reason why I made a stink about the distinction between 4 and 6 cyl was mostly because 1.) I'm lazy and 2.) if its the Duratec I would highly recommend getting a wobble joint for your ratchet if you don't already have one. That back bank of plugs can be a little frustrating for anyone who's not familiar with changing plugs on the Duratec, as it sounds like our original poster is.

The first time I did my plugs I used only an extention on my ratchet. I banged up a knuckle and had to remove the coil pack. Then a friend (former Ford mechanic) showed me how to do it with a wobble joint. That, and the experience of doing it the first time really helped. No injuries and no unnecessary removal of parts when I had to change them a second time. BTW, as previously mentioned, make sure you get double-platinum plugs or you too will be doing a second change in a couple of months. I learned the hard way.

Also, don't forget to change the plugs when the engine is cold, and don't forget the anti-seize!

Well I own the Zetec, and Changing the plugs on that thing is the easiest thing IMO. Get a S.P. Socket, and an extension, pull the plug wires out, put the socket wrench in, remove the previous ones (the S.P. Socket has a rubber grip which will grip the plug better) Pull it out, gap the new one, insert the new one in reverse order of removal.

When I called the dealer they were like so against the repair being done by myself and also they were against me using any other plugs except motorcraft $10.00 per plug????? He told me the Autolite and Bosh plugs were trash. All of the materials tha I am reading states it can and cant be done without removing the intake manifold on top. The ho to also didnt mention it.I cant even see the rear plugs over this part of the engine. I want to do this myself. If I went to the dealer they wanted close to $500 dollars??????

You can do it yourself. Don't be scared, once you get started all your fears will fo away. Before I bought my contour I didn't do any work to cars. No I pulled my own engine and am going to put it back in. So just start witht he front three and do one at a time and just remove the coil pack for the back three. Just don't over torque and you'll be fine

Don't cross your wires. A misfire can kill your pre cats. Other than that, changing plugs is pretty easy.

If I were charging $500, I too would make it sound like it can't be done by yourself. Autolites are the same thing as motorcraft,,, though bosch 4+ plugs are crap (atleast for our cars), I'm sure their normal plugs are OK, though you must have double platinum for our cars.

how do you get to the rear plugs without taking off the intake?

Originally posted by hiddendragonse:
how do you get to the rear plugs without taking off the intake?

I don't have a duratec, so I don't know, but it looks like you can do it if you just remove the coil pack or something like people said, probably a PITA to get to, but like other things, you don't always have to follow the normal way, and can save yourself some time. Though removing the intake manifold probably isn't too hard either.

It's really not that bad if you have the right tools. I just did it again for the second time and I just used a standard socket with a nice long extension. One thing that really helped the second time was a 10 in flex handle bar. The first time I did it, it took forever to loosen the plugs with just a rachet. With the bar, the extra leverage helped and they just popped loose after a few seconds. Getting the right plugs is probably the key. I think I ended up doing it the second time because I didn't get around to changing the wires the first time and that might have had something to do with the plugs getting fouled up.

The rear plugs aren't all THAT hard to change. I've changed mine on my 98 V6 Mystique many times. I know some people say you don't need to remove the coil pack but there are only four 7mm bolts holding it on and it's easy to do. I've never removed the intake manifold to change the plugs.

After I have the coil pack out of the way I twist the plug wires back and forth rather than pulling straight up on them so I don't damage them. After I have the wires off the plugs I use a 3/8 ratchet with a couple of extensions and a universal swivel along with a spark plug socket. The little beggers are really not that hard to remove and I certainly wouldn't pay anyone $500

to change them for me. Man, for that much I could really buy a nice set of tools to do just about everything on my car.

Pay close attention to what wire goes where when you're removing them, be sure and reattach the two ground wires to the coil pack when you put it back on and use anti-seize on the spark plug threads.

There is a How-to on the CEG website that tells step-by-step how to change the plugs, including gap setting and torque specs. Click here for a shortcut to it: Duratec V6 Spark Plug Changing

DUDE:

I changed mine with ONLY the following tools

a socket wrench
a 5/8 spark plug socket
¿8mm? socket (for front cover's 3 small bolts)
LONG extension
gap tool
hands

For the back bank, have someone else lift the hood higher than your prop rod holds it(almost vertically, and you can slide that extension (even without a swivel joint) straight in to the plugs...
I didn't remove ANYTHING..

Nothing to it at ALLLL

Ray

I didn't remove ANYTHING

I guess I get claustrophobia so that's why I always remove the coil pack. And you did remove something - the front cover.

I don't remove that since I don't have it installed. I spent $130 recently on a new IMRC box. I read that the front cover can cause the box to go bad by trapping heat so it will remain off until I sell the car some year.

If I may make a suggestion for someone is doing the plugs for the first time. Do one at a time. Unplug the wire, remove and replace plug, plug wire back in. Just remember which ones you did and didn't do. Easier to do this way than trying to figure out mixed up wires. Plus less chance of dropping anything in with only one hole open.

Some other suggestions (as may have been said)

1. Use anti-seaze on them
2. Do not overtighten!!!
3. After removing the wire boot, blow out around the plug with an air compressor before removing the plug.

Another helpful suggestion:

Duct Tape the Spark Plug Socket to your wrench. That way the socket doesn't come off your wrench while you're trying to remove the plug!

another hint: don't do it with a warm engine.. hot threads warp/strip easily... not a good thing..

I fixed the "heat trapper" with a few aesthetic mods to the cover...

Ray

It is not hard. Just remember if someting is in your way remove it. Too many people try to make things hard by not removing items. It takes me 45 minutes taking my time. Do one plug and or wire at a time and you should not have any problems.

I did it today!!!!! It was not hard at all. It took about an hour. They were easy to get to...thansk all for the tips. I spent $30.00 on parts vs. the $500 the dealer wanted.

Good to hear! Congratulations!

I replaced my plugs last summer (twice actually, bosch +4, and two weeks later, autolites) and removed the hood to get to the backs. Was anyone else this stupid, besides me!? However, I did create a little extra work for myself, it made it alot easier getting those 3 out. It was the "Oh Sh*t, careful, don't scratch the hood" feeling when I was putting it all back together.

Never surrender your cars soul to a fancy lookin' plug.
*cough, bosch, cough*

WHat is wrong with bosh plugs? Everyone hammers it so badly....

Originally posted by hiddendragonse:
WHat is wrong with bosh plugs? Everyone hammers it so badly....

Many, I mean MANY people have used Bosch Plugs, from normal to +4, and they have been WELL KNOWN to fowl up quickly and cause misfires in the duratecs, don't know about the 3.0 or Zetec. Same thing with their wires, which I also had, for two weeks. As for why exactly it happens.... no one shall ever really know......

Well, I'm sure someone knows why.

you say that the bosch plugs are crap.....while i am not arguing i am wondering if you know of or have any information concerning why specifically this is the case. 6 months ago (july 03) my mechanic buddy replaced my plugs with bosch +4's and so far i have not had any problems.

p.s. while removing the coil pack may make life somewhat easier it is in fact not necessary. you will however need the following: swivel joint, socket w/ extension or flex shaft, a cool engine, and several choice words.

99 svt, flowmaster, stoptech crossdrilled front rotors, goodridge braided steel lines, dot 5 brake fluid, mobil 1 10w30

The +4s are great for most automotive applications, however they are not well suited to the Duratec & here is why:

Despite having "4 times more platinum than the Bosch Platinum plugs", the outer electrodes of the Bosch +4 plugs are not platinum or platinum capped.

Bosch +4 desc

Most ignition systems operate in one direction only. As I understand it, the waste fire ignition system on the Contiques fires twice for each burn cycle. Once from one electorde on the "fire" stroke and once on the "exhaust" stroke in the reverse direction. It is a VERY good ignition system & I am not aware of any upgrades that are able to outperform it in any meaningful way.

The outer electrode of the single plat OEM plugs had a tendency to "scallop" because of the reverse direction of the waste fire cycle. This causes misfire contidions as wear widens the plug gap. This happened to me & many other CEGers. My spark plug outer electrodes looked little spoons.

The Bosch +4 outer electrodes will gradually wear away in a similar manner. This will cause mis-fire conditions in short order, & require replacement of the plugs in much shorter intervals compared to double platinum Autolite plugs.

Additionally, I would suspect that the configuration of 4 outer electrodes surrounding the center electrode to have a tendency to cause considerable quenching in the combustion chamber of a high compression engine like the Duratec, which would result in a less efficient ignition of the air/fuel mixture. Again, more prone to mis-firing under less than ideal conditions. As soon as a plug wire even begins to degrade, your +4s will let you know about it. That is my own theory.

Jim R

without having read the entire thread i will chime in with "changing the plugs on the duratec is cake"...and im an automotive dope pretty much

many say you dont even have to remove the coil pack to get to the rear bank of plugs but i did have to remove it....however, first time it took me an hour to do it and since then its like a pitstop...goes really quickly

only plugs i'd use would be motorcraft and yeh i paid 10 bucks a pop from the mis-dealer too

sorry to say I placed the bosh platinums in this ride...I guess I will be experienced the next go around. My cel is still on and I have a 0420 and 0430 code that still registers.

As for your CEL codes, I would start here: TB cleaning

When done, reset your computer & if the CEL comes back, get the codes read & we'll go from there.

would cleaning the throttle body help clear 0420 and 0430 codes. I dont want to replace the cat just yet if I dont need too. I am overdue on emmissions. please help

There are two things I would do before I replaced any cats:

1. TB cleaning.
2. Change out the plugs for some Autolite APP764 double plats.

Do each one & then reset your computer.

I can't say for sure if these will cure it, but they will CERTAINLY give you a more complete combustion and optimize the function of your existing cats.

TB cleaning can be done in a hour or so, & is relatively easy for the do-it-yourself novice. Total cost about $3 for some TB cleaner. Don't use regular carb cleaner, get TB cleaner.

Sample cleaning

Spark plugs will cost you about $4 each. You know how those are installed now.

If this fails, Buckshotmotorsports.com offers "optimized" manifolds for about $80 a pair that some happy CEGers might help you install - MIL eliminators & all.

I will clean out the tb but will hold off on the sparkplugs. they are not fouling out right now. What I did get from the car was a rattling sound when I punch the trottle. This was before I changed the plugs and now. It could be the tb. I will clean the tb and see what happens. I am over due my emmissions since 12/17/03. I want to get this licked without having to spend a "g". thanks for all your suggestions. I will also be replacing the water pump belt and changing the oil at the same time.