I have Flushed the system and put in a new 180 tStat, but this did not work. The temp gage is climbing to the L and this is not good! Driving in the day it hits the L, but at night (when the sun goes down here in Yuma 111 degrees today (Hell) sometimes it hit 115 - 118, Arizona) it runs between the O and the R. Any help here would be appreciated! It is just too close to that upper end of the temp gage! All that heat cannot be good for the motor! Anyway I could use some advice.
Does anyone know what problems (if any) there would be if I took off the catalytic converter? Since it is sitting right in front of the motor this has to be contributing to the heat problem. Would taking it of cause other problems? Will the computer chip handle it or will it cause it to freak out?
Thanks for any help!
CC
it'll cause a CEL unless you get a MIL eliminator, which you can make yourself or buy from
www.zxtuner.com but I doubt that would help your cooling problems at all. the cat is cooler than your engine. are your fans working good? is your radiator good? is your water pump good? use a 75% water/25% antifreeze solution, it may help out some. and move to a place that's a bit cooler or drive around without the hood on the car.
Start by checking for codes (engine/tranny)
Heres what I would check,
The ECT and the Temp gauge sensor.
Since you just changed your t-statā?¦ Air trapped in the block.
Elec cooling fans
Radiator external clog (plastic bag stuck to the front)
Radiator internal clock (flow test)
Engine running to lean or vacuum leak (should set a code)
EGR valve stuck closed (you didnā??t disconnect it did you?) (Should set code)
Head gasket
Torque converter or tranny slippage (should set code)
jeff
What does MIL stand for? Otherwise I have checked all the items you have suggested and it hasn't made a difference. However, I will keep plugging away till I find what will work!
Thanks for the advice and link!
CC
Hey Jeff,
I'm going to bold my reply answers as I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything when I replied to you. Thought it might make it easier since you had a few more suggestions then I was expecting.
You said:
Start by checking for codes (engine/tranny) When I was checking the Plug gap I forgot to reconnect the VCT Solenoid and got a 1380 code (VCT Solenoid Valve circuit Short or Open) plugged it in and no more codes since!
Heres what I would check,
You suggested:
The ECT and the Temp gauge sensor.
Please forgive my ignorance but what is ECT? It has been awhile since I have worked on my own car.
Since you just changed your t-statā?¦ Air trapped in the block. Will be checking this, but don't think so.
Elec cooling fans Both of these kick in while idling.
Radiator external clog (plastic bag stuck to the front)
No plastic bags or other obstructions.
Radiator internal clock (flow test)
Engine running to lean or vacuum leak (should set a code) As I said earlier no other codes and it runs very smooth.
EGR valve stuck closed (you didnā??t disconnect it did you?) (Should set code)
Didn't disconnect the EGR Valve but will check to make sure the previous owner didn't either.
Head gasket It's running pretty smooth and I don't seem to have any coolant leaks so I am thinking it is OK.
Torque converter or tranny slippage (should set code)
Tranny seems to be in good shape no slipage or any other anomalies so far. Will be getting a closer look at it in the near future though as I want to change fluids and filter, and screen.
I appreciate your input and will check on those things that I have overlooked. Would appreciate any other ideas you might have as well.
Thanks Much!
CC
I hear this an awful lot about higher milage Zetecs. I am not sure what causes it, but it is either that the temp gauge gets out of calibration (or bad temp gauge sensor) or that the engine coolant sensor that controls when the fans come on is bad. Another thing to do is clean the exterior of your radiator. Although you might not have major obstructions, little things like dirt and bugs accumulate and block aiflow over time, especially if you do alot of night driving. I think the best way to do this is to squirt forcefully between the fins to get the crud out, but be careful not to bend them or cut yourself. If you are really devoted you can go to a supply store and get some condensor coil cleaner and spray that on and then rinse out the coils. That would do a really good job. Zetecs aren't known for waterpump failures and even if it did, it would overheat quickly without cooling down. I believe your problem rests with the sensors or maybe a little with the plugged radiator. Good luck!
ECT= Engine Coolant Temperature sensor, this is the device that sends the computer the temperature of the engine coolant. It is located near the thermostat and has a two wire electrical connection.
The Gauge sending unit is a single wire sensor (located near the ECT and is only used for the gauge.
Both sensors can be checked with an ohm meter. You can gate a Haynes or Chilton manual for the values and procedure.
You say that itsā?? 111 degrees, is your car actually boiling over or is the gauge going out of the normal range?
When driving on the hwy (lets say 60MPH) does the temp drop or go up. What about stop and go driving?
jeff
Thanks for the advice will give it a try. Clean coils can't hurt and who knows it just might make a difference! It is amazing the stuff they make now days! Anyway will give it a try as it certainly can't hurt!
Thanks!
CC
Thanks for the info and I appreciate your reply!
Yes 111 degrees and really we are having a mild summer this year. Normal for us this time of year is 115 or higher! I know it makes me ill sometimes. I hate it, but that is the nature of the weather here!
Highway temps do seem to hold pretty good around the O and R, but in town driving is what kills it! It hasn't actually boiled over yet, but it can't be far from it! It has hit the high side of the L. Turning off the AC helps but still that is a bit much huh?
Anyway will give your information a try and see if the sensors are working properly. Might be a little while before I get to it though. Will keep checking here for more advice and will post anything I find!
Many Thanks!
CC
Ok guys,
As we are on this subject, I have some questions too as I am working on a Zetec4 also in a Merc that is soon coming south to Las Cruces, NM for a new home in HOT country too.This car has a special 2 valve thermostat. As it opens it shuts off something else in the back of the thermostat housing. This thermostat design is not an after market type and so far, I have only been able to find a replacement at the Ford dealer for $12 and they sell only 192 degree ones here. Are you all using aftermarket 180s? I am NOT impressed with working on this engine as most everything seems to be designed with you going back to the dealer for service or his parts...Even with the new thermostat, this Zetec4 is running warmer than I want it to....We all need to find some good answers to these cooling questions that we all are experiencing....PS. Been to Yuma in JANUARY several years back with my Beretta....Had to turn on A/C that day ..TOO HOT for me...Duane Koss / Blue Springs, MO
MIL- Malfunction Indicator Lamp or check engine light.
Thanks for the info will be checking this out!
CC
i'm using 180 degree thermostat from
www.zxtuner.com with no problems.
The one I picked up was from Napa. Just went in asked for a tstat for a 98 Ford Contour, told them which motor and they gave me one to fit. I am still pursuing the heat problem, and will keep posting when I have any changes!
Just for Everyones info that might read this I have been having a heck of a time finding plugs for this car. Turns out that the parts stores are miss reading what they are using for a replacement for it. The original plug was a APP5344 (Note the DOUBLE P) When they two parts stores sold me plugs (the replacement Plugs) they gave me APP5364's When they should have in fact given me AP5364's (Note the SINGLE P). So just for informational purposes make note of the difference!
Thanks for the info about the tstat your using!
CC
Thanks for the Info! Appreciate it!
CC