My overhead light and footwell lights won't turn off when the car is on. Seems to think the doors are still open. Any suggestions on what I could look into to correct this problem. Thanks.
Welcome onboard. Best to give car details, helps due to difference between years and models.
Try the dimmer switch if you have a late model ('99 or'00) Contique.
My car's a 96 LX V6. Do you mean the instrumentation dimmer switch? Thanks.
I have probelm once in a while, my drivers door switch for the interior lights is flaky. Look at that.
Now, lights don't come on when I open the door. I'm not going to try to fix it since it's not worht the $$ and it's not draining the battery.
It sounds like you have a short in the circuit somewhere. It's not going to be a stuck switch because if it's stuck then the lights will always be off (it can't be stuck on "open"). The footwell lights always go off when you start (IIRC), so that would suggest a short in the interior illumination switch.
I don't think it's my door switches, because with the key out of the ignition, opening either door activates the lights. The lights go off as usual after a short delay when the doors are closed. Only when the car is running do the lights refuse to turn off. A short somewhere, as davo7svt suggested, sounds to be on the right track. davo7svt, could you provide a little more detail about your diagnosis and do you think this is an easy fix for me? BTW, I have the service manual. Thanks.
Yes; in later years that switch had the ability to switch courtesy lights on, added. However, not on your car. I would suspect courtesy light relay on interior fuse panel might be the culprit although key-in warning circuit might also be at fault. I would suspect faulty component first before wiring unless you have recently had dash work done on car.
Does your key-in warning work, i.e., ignition-off but key-in and open door should give warning? Also when door is opened, then closed, key-in should kill the lights immediately before the time-delay does?
For troubleshooting this type of problem you really need the EVTM (elect/vacuum troubleshooting manual), not the service manual, to understand the circuit. Sometimes they do provide troubleshooting charts for elect circuits in service manual.
Do you have the switches in the right position?As I recall you may set them up to stay on, or to have the delay kick in after door is opened and closed, or to turn on only when door is opened.Could it be that simple? Probably not.
Cheers
Yes, my key-in warning chime works. However, when door is opened, then closed, key-in does not kill the lights immediately before the time-delay does.
I had the same exact problem before you goto ford dealer for $75 or replace fuses or any munbo jumbo !Take off you battery cable for 20 minuites! It will reset things so the lights turn off
It fixed my situation at least
Xoom
Tried my own last night, apparently the dome light(s) don't go out until you turn the key, just inserting it doesn't kill them. So in your case the lights would go out after you close the door and the delay times out, and then come back on when you turn the key on.
I don't have my EVTM available but as I recall the circuit; the (a)relay mentioned previously, the (b)door jamb switches, the (c)key-in switch/relay, and the (d)timer module all have a part to play for lights to come and go off. Your test show that b, c and at least the delay part of d are ok. The timer d also works the intermittent wipers and the windshield washer pulsing, so you could check those features (although there are several more) easily.
A cursory check of relay coil can be accomplished just by putting your finger on the relay, and either operating the ignition from off to run (but not start), or operating the door jamb switch by hand (and delay expires), to feel if the coil energizes.
Tried the battery disconnect mentioned by Xoom, didn't help. My intermittent wipers work fine. Is the relay easy to replace? How much would the part cost? Thanks for all your input.
Relay r12 (brown) located on flip-down interior fuse panel is easy to replace, it just pulls (wiggle or use yellow fuse puller} out of socket. Should be no more than $20 but I'm just guessing. However, I'm not able to say for certain that this relay is the cause of problem. Pulling relay out will cause lights to go off, which maybe a better situation for you pending fix.
In these situations I can simply substitute from my other car to confirm problem solution. You only have the option of substituting a similar relay from the under hood fuse box by the battery. The horn relay r7 is similar type (brown, closest to battery) and you may wish to substitute it inside the car to see if that fixes problem.
These relays are indentified in owners guide BTW, if you don't have one try this:
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=general&Number=61629&page=5&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1
Should have my EVTM tomorrow, will have a further look then.
That's a great idea horseydug. My dad also has 96 contour, so I can confirm the fix with his relay before making a purchase. BTW, my owners manual says R12 is white.
It sucks that it didnt work but thats as technical car savvy as i get LOL i guess yours is different my wipers didnt work kinda sucked
Xoom
Well temporarily steal your Dad's and see what happens.
I should have read my own first post.
My '98 Mystique has a brown r12 relay whereas my '97 has a white one, according to the respective owner guides. I also took out the Mystique's yesterday, before my post, to make sure it killed the lights; it did, and is currently sitting here by my keyboard.
BTW putting relay back in a little tricky since your hand blocks view of socket, has to be done by feel alone. Hopefully I'll get it back in when I try
again after the sun comes up and before my wife needs her car this am.
Finally got around to swapping for my dad's R12 relay. No effect. Problem still there. Any more suggestions before a visit to the dealer? Thanks.
Wondered what was happening -- I'm not entirely surprised with the resuts, but at least we're narrowing it down. I got my manual back and had a quick look last week, I'll study it again and get back to you tonight, but the timer module is now the most likely component.
In the meantime if you read this, and since you can do this at n/c, I would try substituting your Dad's timer module. Its mounted to the underside of the fuse panel, no need to flip the panel down. Many contacts on it and plastic clips so you sometimes have to use small screwdriver to gently pry it out.
The internal circuitry of this module is not shown in the manual, however it performs a variety of functions, some of which we've checked.
I studied the diag again and have no further suggestions re faulty components that would cause the symptoms you are experiencing. Hopefully the timer change solves it.
This problem seems similar to what I'm experiencing in my 98 Contour SE. The overhead light doesn't come on when the door is opened but the footwell light does.
Also, my intermittent wipers aren't working. When I want to wash my windshield, I have to first turn on my wipers at the slow setting, and then push the fluid. If I try to just pull back on the lever to get at the fluid, the wipers don't automatically come on like they should.
You mentioned in the post above that the timer module may be the culprit?
Can you provide any more info?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Randy.
Sure, Randy:
On the dome light first make sure it's set for 12 sec delay position, rather than off, turning it to on should of course do just that. Presumably the delay-off is working on the foot well lights proving that part of timer is working ok.
On the wipers; there is an interval wiper relay (r15 green)plus the timer involved in the intermittent/wash operation. I've had to replace the former, due to dirty contact, although another member simply took apart and cleaned it (using matchbook striking surface). Easy test on relay is to substitute the rear defrost relay (r13 green) and see if that solves your problem. Position of relays shown in owner's manual but they are numbered 13/14/15/16, top to bottom, after you have flipped the interior fuse panel down.
Post again with outcome.
I had the same problems with both Contours. I was equally puzzeled becuase of how the lights operated. I thought there were major problems with some logic module some where.
It turned out to be bad contacts in the door switches in the doors. They are really cheap and rely on chassis ground of the car. Remove the switches and with knife or file clean up the contact area around the hole. There is a good chance that this is the problem. Good luck.
Originally posted by jborge:
I had the same problems with both Contours. I was equally puzzeled becuase of how the lights operated. I thought there were major problems with some logic module some where.
It turned out to be bad contacts in the door switches in the doors. They are really cheap and rely on chassis ground of the car. Remove the switches and with knife or file clean up the contact area around the hole. There is a good chance that this is the problem. Good luck.
exactly! I had this problem a few weeks back with the driver's door, now the passenger side is acting up. Just take the switch off, lean it up (and the door as well) and reinstall. problem should disappear.
(here's a better question - why are these switches grounded to a PAINTED surface?
)
The philips head screw is what contacts the ground plate, and the screw hole on the body, which gives it the ground, my screw hole isn't painted. Ive never had any problems
Turns out it's the wiper motor relay (R15). Tested it with the rear defrost relay (R13) and it worked fine. Unfortunetaly, none of the Ford dealerships have this relay in stock and it'll cost $28 CND to replace. Anybody know of any auto parts stores in the Ottawa area that would carry something like this or is it a dealership part only?
Thanks for all your help, Randy.
Dont know if you have fixed the problem with your lights yet but, I know how I fixed mine. If you take your door panel off an move the foam baffle back near the latch in the door you can take out your locking assembly by removing two bolts in the upper part of the door in the door handle, and removing the three bolts on the latch side. Then if you pull the whole locking assembly out you can see there is little white plug that is plugged in right next to the latch, pull that out and reinstall everything as you took it out. This seems like it may take awhile but it should only take 20 minutes at the most if you have no problems. It worked for me and I was just adding a suggestion to help out a felow ceg member in need.