I have a 1995 Contour 2.0L 4cyl. It recently began running very hot in stop/go traffic. The temp usually runs between the M and the A of Normal in the guage. Now, when I get in stop and go traffic (doesn't seem to matter what the weather is) the temp climbs and if I don't get out of the traffic soon it goes into the red. Any (cheap) ideas?
Thanks
Is your coolant topped off? Are you loosing coolant?
Also, when you add coolant, are you adding a 50/50 mixture? Pure water or pure coolant doesn't cool as well as a 50/50 mixture.
Im not sure what your problem is, could be a thermostat, you probably already had it checked however until you find the problem see if turning your heater fan on high and on heat this will take some of the coolant from the engine and help cool her down through the heater core. This is not a fix but just a bandaid so you dont overheat.
I actually just flushed/filled the coolant when this problem started to occur. I am concerned that the cooling fan does not seem to be coming on. It runs if I press on the 'test' switch but I don't think it is working when it needs to. Is there a sensor or anything that might be bad?
Originally posted by jamesbury:
I actually just flushed/filled the coolant when this problem started to occur. I am concerned that the cooling fan does not seem to be coming on. It runs if I press on the 'test' switch but I don't think it is working when it needs to. Is there a sensor or anything that might be bad?
Hey.. let me know if you find something...
My first question at CEG was about that...
A lot of people told me that if it is under "normal" it is NORMAL...
I hate to have the engine running that hot in traffic... u know what I do?? I turn on the A/C and then the fan kicks on...
BTW, I chanaged the temperature sensor that goes by the thermostat... I think... that was like 3 years ago... I assumed the fan was kicking on too late... but even with the new sensor the fan was kicking on late... I guess that is a Ford design issue...
Can you tell me where I can find info on how to change the temp sensor? Anyway, on hot days (90+) it has gotten into the red and I have turned the defrost on full blast with the windows down (not fun in traffic on 90+ degree day!) and this cooled it off. Also, when the engine is cold in the morning and I turn on the ac in my driveway the cooling fan does not turn on, is that important?
I just had the same problem with my 99 SVT. I noticed that the cooling fan fuse was blown, so I got it replaced and then the new one blew. Turns out the fan was binding up and blowing the fuse. $500 later ($300 for the fan and $200 for labor) the fan works and my car is running where it used to run.
I call it the test switch but there is a bracket type thing attached to a wire going to the fan that when squeezed makes the fan run (until released). Would this still work if the fuse was blown?
Sounds like the radiator fan to me. There is a recall out for that part (well, I think it's more like an extended warranty, something like 10 years or 100,000 miles). I had the warranty done on a 95 Mystique last week, for the exact same problem. Ford replaced fan, wiring harness, etc. I'm having the same repair done today on a 95 contour. Same exact problem you are having. In traffic, on hot days, the car ran hot. The fan was not coming on to cool the radiator. I suppose when I was driving at highway speeds, there was enough air flow to cool the system. Anyway, Ford did the repairs at no cost.
You are right, I had mine replaced in April/May. I guess maybe it is another bad one.
Take a look at picture 09
IIRC this is the sensor... not sure... it is pretty simple to change it... but I wouldn't suggest you to do it... it didn't help me at all...
Look for picture #09
Okay, maybe I talked to soon. From what I can tell, Ford replaced the fan motor, wiring harness, coolant temperature sensor, and probably even the resistor, on the 95 Mystique. But, there's still something that doesn't seem to be quite right. In the morning, ambient temperature around 70, on a 10 mile drive to work, running 45-60 mph, the temp gauge stays around the R or M. In the afternoon, temperature around 95-100, same 45-60 mph, the temp gauge stays around the A or L. Sound familiar?
Sure does. I have also had another item arise. What I thought was a 'test switch' actually seems to be a loose connection. I have to wiggle the connector and press it towards the fan and the fan comes on. Sometimes I have even gotten it tight enough that it goes on/off with the A/C like it is supposed to when the engine is cold but usually it is full on or full off. When it is working I see the same results you described but driving usually works it loose and my car is running between L and red when I get home. There does not seem to be any slack in the wiring that connects to the fan motor, do they cut wiring when they perform the fix?
I didn't see any evidence of cut wiring, but I really didn't look that close. It seemed to just be a 'plug in' type of operation. I'll try to look tonight when I have that car again. The part that you thought was a 'test switch': could this be the resistor that determines the fan speed? My original one was overheated and charred...
It is a black plastic frame with 3 yellow fins in it. If you would like I can upload a picture of it tonight when I get home. I certainly appreciate all of your communications on this!
Yeah, that's the part I'm remembering. I think it determines the fan speed. I used the Haynes manual, to try and figure out what the thing was, and I finally decided it must be a resistor. If I remember right, it should have two wires going in to the top of it, and only one wire coming out the bottom. Or maybe it's three going in the top, and two coming out the bottom. Anyway, if squeezing it or wiggling it makes the fan go on and off, it sounds like something isn't quite right inside the unit. For what it's worth, Haynes says that if the fan works when hooked up directly, then the problem must be in the coolant temperature sensor, the wiring harness, or the engine management system. That could be about anywhere. Hope this helps.
I'm sorry, you lost me. So are you saying that you think the problem could be about anywhere or are you saying that it is probably the resistor itself? Don't worry, I won't hold you to any of this! :->
Sorry. I just meant that if the problem is "somewhere" in the wiring harness or engine management system, as Haynes suggested, then that could mean a lot of places....But, in my opinion, it does sound like you have a problem in the resistor.....just my opinion.
Thanks! I will go about troubleshooting starting there and let you know how it goes!