I just replaced my timing and serp belts. Before the change, the dashboard would shake at idle but after searching I assumed it was normal for a '95 zetek and decided to live with it. I have done all of the tune up items talked about on the board and other than the idle, its great. If only there was a way to adjust the idle - I am sure the problem is just that the rpms are a bit too low but according to searches here on that topic there is no way to increase idle rpms.
Anyway, after replacing the belts now instead of dashboard shaking I get VERY loud belt squealing at idle. I think that since the belt is slipping a little, the load on the engine is therefore less, which results in less shaking.
I just wondered if anyone had a solution to the belt noise. It only happens at idle, while in drive.
Check engine/tranny mounts. Did you replace the tensioner and idler pulley when you changed the serpentine belt?
The mounts are good and the pulleys were replaced. I am thinking of trying a different belt but am not sure what are the odds that will help. The one on there now I bought at autozone - not the gatorback kind, the regular one.
The real problem is the darn low rpm idle. With just a hint of gas pedal (while holding down brake) it purrs perfectly.
Originally posted by johnoh:
.. the pulleys were replaced. I am thinking of trying a different belt but am not sure what are the odds that will help. The one on there now I bought at autozone - not the gatorback kind, the regular one.
Did you mean the tensioner was also replaced? Yes, I would try a different serpentine belt too.
I was thinking of my crown vic tensioner pulley. I can't remember if I replaced it on the contique, but if the tensioner and tensioner pulley are one unit, I am sure I did not replace it. I'll try a new belt.
Info on belts, pulleys, tensioner, from
Autozone
Johnoh, I adjusted my idle by taking up the slack in the throttle cable and adjusting it out one notch where the housing attaches to the throttle body.
Take the clip loose that holds the cable housing in place, and pull the housing out a little, until you get it where you want it. Put the clip back on, and it should idle a bit higher. Just do it a notch at a time, until it's where you want it. You don't want it to idle too high.
Welcome, hopalong
. Thanks for posting.
Originally posted by hopalong:
Take the clip loose that holds the cable housing in place, and pull the housing out a little, until you get it where you want it. Put the clip back on, and it should idle a bit higher. Just do it a notch at a time, until it's where you want it. You don't want it to idle too high.
Welcome hopalong that is what I was looking for! Although I am not quite getting your instructions so please bear with me a bit.
There are two cables, the (throttle?) cable which is nearer the TB and then two inches toward the passenger wheel is yet another cable (the speed sensor cable?), which has a green plastic connector about an inch long near its end. So I am not sure which of these two you mean.
Also when you say "take the clip loose that holds the cable housing in place", I'm afraid I do not understand that.
There is the springloaded spring-wound housing (which I am thinking is the cable housing you referred to) that connects directly to the TB, but I do not see how its clipped or how I would loosen it. There is also the cable guide housing where the cable goes from bare wire to plastic-covered wire, but I am thinking you do not mean that.
Would you mind taking another go at the instructions? Thanks a million.
Side point - there DOES appear to be an idle adjustment screw on the passenger side of the TB, but I do not see how one could turn it. By removing the passenger-wheel facing allen-head screw that connects the springwound housing to the TB, you can then see a screw under it that has no visible way of turning it. Its about 1/4 inch in diameter and sits vertically and protrudes down below the housing, and a piece of metal on the housing hits it which causes the cable housing to stop. If I could turn that screw, it appears that the cable housing would not be able to loosen as far, causing the throttle plate to be kept slightly open. Hmm
No prob, johnoh.
It's best not to try adjusting any screws on the throttle body. The only adjustment that I can see is the air bypass screw, and that is sealed at the factory. I wouldn't mess with it if I were you.
Oh, yeah, do this while the car is turned off, since it won't idle right with the air box off, and you'd have no way of knowing if it helps or not. I did mine with the air box off, but I'd have to go out and look at it again to see if you can get to it with the box on.
The throttle cable is the one closest to the passenger side. It is attached to the black cam on passenger side of the throttle body shaft. The other one should be your cruise control cable.
The throttle cable is held in place in the bracket by a steel clip that slips in the top of the bracket. Take a look at the throttle cable housing, it has a lot of "notches" or rings on it where it goes into the bracket.
If you pull the clip off, you can then pull the cable housing back from the bracket. You'll feel it click as you pull it back. That's what I mean about only going one or two notches at a time. If you pull it too far out, the car will idle too fast, and that's not a good thing. After you pull it out a notch or 2, put the clip back on.
You just want it to idle a tiny bit higher so it smooths out. It made a huge difference on mine.
I have other issues to sort out, but I can't seem to find a fix for my surging/bucking problem. I looked through the archives, but the closest I could come to a fix was posted about 4 years ago, and the link to the fix seems to be dead. Darn.
Okay I got it now. Thanks a lot! I have not put everything back together yet to try it because I have to run.
This tip should be in the "how to" section. A lot of us have dashboard shaking idle speeds that are too low and up until now I have seen no way to adjust idle speed!
I am assuming I have to move back enough notches to create a slight opening between the the throttle plate and throat. To do that I had to move back 4-5 notches - as far as it would go - otherwise there is still slack in the cable and the plate is fully closed.
Just take the slack out of the cable and go maybe one more notch. You will be very surprised how small an opening it needs to bump the idle up where you want it.
When I did mine, it idled too fast with the tiniest visible opening, that's why I suggested 1 or 2 notches to start with.
Let us know if it works out.
i noticed that too. With the notches as far out as I could get there was only a pretty small opening in the throttle, but it idled way too fast. The next notch down results in a super small opening, and the idle appears to be about the same as it was before, maybe just a tad higher. At that setting the belt squeaks and the dash shakes, but somewhat less than before. I'll leave it there for now.
I came across a post on some other forum where a guy said he put one of those split shot lead fishing weights on his throttle cable, so it lifted the cable out of the cam groove enough to increase the idle.
I haven't gone that far yet, but he said it smoothed things out a good bit.
I hate to say it, but quality didn't seem to be job 1 when Ford came up with these cars.
I have a 96 Aerostar that has been hands-down one of the best vehicles I have ever owned.
The Contour runs really well when it runs, for a 4 banger, but I have yet to figure out how to get it fixed, and this seems to be a very common problem with these cars. This is THE worst car I have ever tried to troubleshoot.
I have no problem with Fords, but this does NOT seem to be one of Ford's better ideas.
But, I'll keep plugging, since I actually do kinda like the car.