First off my name is Albert and i'm kind of car savvy. My specialty is the lovely DSM (japanese car made by americans) so I know about screwy problems with Mitsubishis.
Searched Post I am familiar with car forums as well and performed a search. Coinsidently enough the guy in this thread actually lives in the same town as me. So hopefully Carl Beasley Ford can give me the same deal
The MLPS seems to be my problem but it looks like its been replaced before based on the pictures in the reference thread.It's black and looks newer with a connector. The transmission was serviced in 2001 from the sticker under the hood. My o/d light was flashing as well so is that definetly a VSS or VSS connector?
My speedometer is fine and in order to limp myself to work today I had to turn the o/d off on the highway and it was fine. Then for regular driving i switched back because it seemed to drive smoother and the light started flickering on and off.
Today is the first time I had this problem and the transmission has a significant whine w/ higher rpms. Sounds like a tranny ready to grenade to me but i'm not sure. The fluid is good nice and pink but it did have a burning smell to it. The first time I checked it I did it with the car off and it was mildy dirty but still pink. I then rechecked it with the car running in Park and it looked perfect.
Please let me know which direction to go. This car was purchased for $2200 in May w/ 121k now it has 128k.
Also one important thing to add because every variable counts. Yesterday there was very hard rain and hail. I actually pulled into a carwash bay (I'm smart hehe) to protect the paint/glass. Some mild flooding and went through maybe 1/4 tire high water at one point. Parked the car went out to grab some grub and it drove perfect as usual at 8pm last evening. Then at 630am this morning the problems started by slipping transmission and a loud whine w/ rpms.
Welcome
. As you suspected, it could be water getting into the conectors for the MLPS or VSS. I would suggest removing those connectors and drying it out first (use hairdryer). Then reset the PCM (pull Fuse 4 and 11 for a few minutes). If the OD off light flashes again or CEL codes lights up after that, scan it and you should be more aware of what the issue is. Good luck.
Go get your codes read BEFORE resetting the PCM. That way, you have an initial starting point.
Also, give the complete set of symptoms.....
Steve
Great thanks for the advice/help. But how do I go about removing the plug from inside the wheelwell.
It seems brittle and I don't wanna break the sucker.
It has two tabs I tried pushing in and using a screwdriver being careful I couldnt slip it off.
EDIT: Got that falker loose. looks like its never been removed and to my amazement some drips of water came out and a wet connector.
105* today it should dry it out well but I will use a heatgun I have here at work.
Thanks a bunch I hope this solves the problem. I was out on my back in my khakis lol.
The tranny drove and shifted normal then about 5minutes into the drive it would slip. It has never slipped before today. Any gas over 1/2 throttle it would slip. I noticed it going on the highway. Then the shifter when put into neutral at a stop (trying to cool down tranny)it wouldn't find drive again until I shut the car off and turned it back on and waited like 30sec (while holding up morning traffic on a US highway) The first big hill it let go completely and I had to stop on the hill. Then after turning the car off/on again the tranny was fine. It does seem like a nonmechanical problem to me as well.
Do you think water could of entered the transmission? it wasn't very high.
Can a wacky sensor make these problems occur? I guess i'll find out on the drivehome at 6pm for myself.
Try taking out in 2nd gear next time it slips. That is a mechanical selection and should work provided there are no mechanical or hydraulic issues.
Still need those codes to get a direction...
BTW, which sensor are you working on, the TSS?
Steve
ok got outta work at 6, Reconnected both sensors and no more slipping but gears shift harder. Using 2nd to start it is a smoother start.
Autozone OBD2 codes ran were the same I was aware of:
P0133 O2 Sensor
PO420 Cat
PO171 Lean 2nd bank
No tranny codes. On the way home on the highway the o/d light started flashing again. Still no slipping but like I said harder shifts.
Any reccomendation where to start on sensors? The tranny still whines w/ RPM's but shifts and had it to 80mph without slipping, uphill 45mph no slipping (earlier today it couldn't make it up the same hill) so I believe something is working better.
Me and my bud use this car to carpool to work is the purpose as a daily driver. He's not into replacing what the codes ran at before until inspection. What annoys me is he has the money to make it right but with a Widebody MR2 Turbo, Navigator, and a Turbo CRX he really just wants it to get from point a to point b with minimal expense its really a low key car to commute so we don't get targeted as 22/23yr olds.
If it was my car I would make everything right. In my eyes as an enthusiast i'd want all my cars running up to par for reliabilty. The car recenty got 34mpg on the highway on a day trip to NYC. The car does run slightly hotter because of the Cat but has a brand new thermostat and coolant sensors.
If it is a V6 Duratec, start by changing Bank 1 Upstream O2 sensor. Then drive for a while and see if other codes return. Note that P0171 is Bank 1 lean.
Bank 1 Upper O2 sensor removal in Duratec Maintenance FAQ
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=v6maint&Number=1023736&Forum=v6maint&Words=replace%20o2&Match=And&Searchpage=0&Limit=2500&Old=allposts&Main=1023736&Search=true#Post1023736
If it is I4 Zetec, then change the upstream O2 sensor (before the catalytic converter).
Edit. You did not mention which connector you had water in, you need to check for both VSS and MLPS. The way to get the tranny codes is run a real time scan (when the engine is turned off, the tranny codes are usually erased unless it is a "hard" code).
Has the ATfluid ever being changed?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=992476&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Edit. You did not mention which connector you had water in, you need to check for both VSS and MLPS. The way to get the tranny codes is run a real time scan (when the engine is turned off, the tranny codes are usually erased unless it is a "hard" code).
Has the ATfluid ever being changed?
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=992476&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=31&fpart=1
Its a 4cyl and the water was in the VSS connector (by the driverside tire) I can change the ATfluid, could the driving I did today been hard enough on the tranny to make a whine louder and for it to have harder shifts? Lucas products i've had personal success with.
I guess i'll have to try the scanner again. Man I'm spoiled on my DSM I can just plug in a palm pilot and walla. 
screw OBD2...lol
Allright I have an important trip this weekend and I need for this to be working. This evening I'm going to pickup some ford atf and some Lucas and do a transmission fluid change. I also found a VSS at CarlBeasley...lol same dealership as in my archived thread available. Picking that up tonight as well.
Are there any other possiblities of what it could be? I definetly do have the oem VSS and the partsguy on the phone said its the updated version.
I'm doing the OBDII scan again this evening (this time leaving the car on w/ the overdrive light flashing)
The VSS os not the sensor you can see from the driver's side wheel well.
That one is the TSS (Turbine Shaft Sensor). The TSS has been implicated in 1-2 bang shifts, but not much more.
Steve
Originally posted by projectSHO89:
The VSS os not the sensor you can see from the driver's side wheel well.
That one is the TSS (Turbine Shaft Sensor). The TSS has been implicated in 1-2 bang shifts, but not much more.
Steve
Typo...yes its the TSS. I definetly had the bang shift prior to this problem even happening so with that and a combination of a fluid change I hope I can diagnose this. Oceancity MD calls my name and so do the ladies 
ok just went out on a drive till the tranny started messing up again and the o/d off light was flashing again. NO CODES.
The tranny still whines like a mofo too.
Installed TSS ( I just got home at 7:15 lol )easy job just turned the wheel no need I saw in taking it off. Reseting PCM and then I'll see whats good hopefully.
Tony2000 and ProjectSho thanks a bunch Problem Solved
Shifts perfect no more 1-2 bang. $24.78 el cheapo fixo. After the worst problem (clunky shifting and slipping) is now fixed.
I did my first step of diagnosis on the whine. Stuck it in Nuetral and reved. Its coming from the engine, Probably overdue for an oilchange
I'll do that tomorrow before I leave for ocean city. Maybe i'll get lucky this weekend too
Originally posted by Spyderman:
Tony2000 and ...
When did I lose 5? Glad everything is fine (for now).
Originally posted by Tony2005:
:) Glad everything is fine (for now).
You didn't jinx me cuz I always jinx myself allready 
Well I drove it 45miles yesterday fixed and it was PERFECT. Get up this morning to go to work and it starts slipping gets stuck in 1st or 2nd gear and I lost transmission completely.
It will rev in all gears and w/ a different pitch rev I can get it to go but it won't shift.
Seems like its lights out for the tranny. The o/d light started flashing again but the CEL is still off since the reset last night.
Any Ideas? The car is now on the side of US30..
old thread
In the link above it talks about excess tempature and possibly a clogged cat could make this problem worse and heat up the tranny and engine.
The Coolant temp sits around the A/L and has been plugged into a diagnostics machine that says its within spec.
The owner of the car is saying I am to blame when I am trying to help. He wanted to drive it into the ground the other day mind you.
So if there is a scapegoat like the Cat being so clogged that the engine runs hot and therefore makes the tranny get too hot I can bail my self out since he chose not to service it.
The engine performance was weak to begin with and only seem to be choking on itself more and more.
My friend had a Z28 Camaro that actually began to overheat and slip his tranny when his cats were clogged. I raced him in my eclipse gst and put about 2 cars on him. He limped it home cut his pipes off problem gone (loud as hell) but problem gone. and it definetly helped his performance cuz that LS1 was ahead by 3cars after he fixed it. Besides the fact that the cats restrict power also.
Time to call in the hook.....
Originally posted by projectSHO89:
Time to call in the hook.....
Tow time i presume. I think I've learned my lesson don't drive neglected cars or the person you borrow it from will immediately blame you. 
I asked him about towing it to Beasley Ford and he rather just let it sit in a parkinglot.
Thanks again I think i'm done putting any time into this.
The car BlueBook's for $2800. The labor is $300 and a 90day warrantied tranny from the junkyard is $400.
Is it worth it? I have the opprotunity to buy the car for $1000
How many miles on the car? What options? Where are you getting $2,800 BlueBook value?
Ok im at 124k miles and in the last month my tranny has been going crazy. It will start out ok then as I drive and slow down it will jerk when i give it gas into 1/2 and the other gears are realitevly fine. When I start it in the morning It was fine for a little while. Today as I was drving home it's starting to have problems down shifting just a little and then finnally the o/d light started blinking as I was trying to get home. I'm afraid it's broken now but maybe could have been fixed if I had looked at this a month ago. Also when im in gear and not moving my spedo gage bounces from 0 to 10 mph. Maybe something is cooking it and thats why it is shifting bad because when I first start it still runs ok. I've tried calling part stores about the TSS and none have it around here. I added lucas that didn't help much. When that light started blinking I was freaking out. I stoped my card and started it again and it was off like it's supposed to be. I can't afford to replace the tranny and I can't buy a new car. I drive this thing 400+ miles a week and it has been well maintained. I run full 10w/30 synthetic in it every 3000-4000 miles. Replaced belts, plugs, sp wires, water pump and both belts as pm. Only thing that has ever broken is the timing belt tensioner but that was fixed and no problems since then until now. If i am cooking my Transmission i'm just making it worse every time i drive it and I might actually need a new one now that its been a few weeks. New TSS, get the cat checked, anything elese I should get checked before I borrow the cash to get my car fixed ?
Thanks for the info Tony I will try that later today. I called napa and they have a vss for a manual transmission, is that the same thing, the guy was like huh what the heck is a vss and they did not have anything that resembled a tss.
Originally posted by Diftgog420:
.. I called napa and they have a vss for a manual transmission, is that the same thing,...
Different.
From www.teamfordparts.com
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR, Contour, Mystique, 2.5L, Automatic Trans., From 2/1/95 95-00 MSRP $51.18 CEG $28.56
Order By Description. Parts & Prices For Estimating Only.
VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR, Contour, Mystique, 2.5L, Manual Trans., From 2/1/95 95-00 MSRP $51.71 CEG $28.85
Order By Description. Parts & Prices For Estimating Only.
I bought 12 quarts of castrol mercon V ATF will that work or should I use some thing else. Man shes getting worse.
While we usually say Mercon/Dextron III as it was spec when the car was built, recently Ford issued a TSB to say that Mercon V is the new tranny fluid for all its automatic transmissions. So, yes, if that is what you have, use it.
Read this.
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=tranny&Number=1280884&Forum=tranny&Words=mercon%20v&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=3months&Main=1279489&Search=true#Post1280884
I used
Mobil 1 , which I noticed replaces both Mercon types now (it didn't last year when I changed my ATF).
I went back to the store and bought 8 quarts of coastal dexron III/Mercron and 4 quarts of Valovoline Max Life which i'll put in after I flush it. Gonna get up early tomorrow and do the engine oil/filter and the tranny fluid. I ordered the vss from Team Ford. Thanks for the hookup on that. Also I haven't changed my 02 sensors yet and I'm at 124 k. I done just about everything else though. I did notice today that there was burning smell, liked burnt oil and my dipstick has burnt oil on it and it was smoking when I pulled it out. I thought that was normal for a car with this many miles on it.
It's not the stop leak Max Life is it?
Jus the valovoline 75,000 + miles stuff in the red bottle
In was changing my regular oil today and the oil filter wouldn't budge. The damn mechanic put it on to hard again. So I got the screwdriver and It wouldn't stay in enough to turn it. Basically ripped the whole filter off except fot the very bottom piece that screws onto the car. So now, 10 hours later it's sitting on jack stands in the parking lot of my apartment complex with no oil in it and no way to get that damn piece off. I hate the location of the oil filter in our cars. So i was never actually able to get to the transmission oil change. Going to have to have the car towed to the mechanic and hope he can use a dremo or somthing to get it off.
Originally posted by Diftgog420:
In was changing my regular oil today and the oil filter wouldn't budge. The damn mechanic put it on to hard again. So I got the screwdriver and It wouldn't stay in enough to turn it. Basically ripped the whole filter off except fot the very bottom piece that screws onto the car....
Which is why I use a $4 oil filter removal cap. Designed just for that size filter. That has happened to me in a previous vehicle but it was in a more accessible location. I managed to use a big plier to twist the remainder of the filter out.
What a pain, the filter only needs strong hand tightening. I like to use a filter with the gasket that is Teflon treated, so it won't stick,such as the Motorcraft FL820S (for the Duratec).
Well got that fixed, oil change and tranny flush for $65.00 cause I took the mechanic the parts. He ran two of the quarts of the valvoline through the car. It's drving a little better but still needs to go to the ol' tranny shop friday for more diagnosing.
Sounds similar to my scenario. I'm having my contour with basically the identical mileage to tranny shop.
The TC probably is toast because when I went back to the car later it drove fine cold.
tried fluid change no luck still slips, worse I would say.
just paid for my $275 60,000mi tranny with a warranty today.
cant wait to pick it up Saturday
$575 and I don't have to get my hands dirty...pretty good deal to me
what company did you buy the transmission? thanks
Originally posted by cashewnuts:
what company did you buy the transmission? thanks
I did a car-part.com partsearch and found it.
Great guys I found on there, Just picked it up saturday in Philadelphia from K&A Autosalvage.
They forklifted it into my mom's minivan I was borrowing. It wasn't fun putting it in the tour's trunk later bymyself.
Those 3spdOD tranny's weigh alot.
I'm used to lifting DSM 5spd awd transmissions and its definetly alot heavier.
Also picked up a B&M Transmission oil cooler thats being installed today with the trans.
It's thier medium sized one. For $54 shipped not a bad deal at all.
I think I'm going to run the same oil cooler with -an fittings on my Colt.