MISSFIRING - CEG Archives

I searched and found this

Originally posted by chongo:
I thought I would post this incase any of you have this problem or for those that might get this problem.

Engine will misfire after it's sat warm. Either idling or stuck in traffic. Loss of power, engine may stall. Would run good (no misfires)if on highway or roads with little or no traffic. Misfires were on cylinder 2 & 3 no other codes.

I had been dealing with this issue for 10 months, not even Ford could figure it out. My two mechanics friends after months of fustration finally did last week.

Ford told me to stop using winter fuel and also said all my cats were bad, but wouldn't warranty them.....
(I took it to Ford 3 times)

I had changed wires, plugs, ignition coil, PCM computer, cam & crank sensors, ECT sensor, DPFE sesor, fuel filter twice, cleaned UIM & LIM, etc........you get the idea.

It was finally solved as the fuel pump was bad . It didn't show on any fuel line pressure tests or obd2 scanner tests.
Idle psi was fine, hold psi fine...etc.

I did appear finally last week when we tested the fuel line pessure again (I can't remember how many times we've done this) and the pump was only priming 5psi on a warm engine. I took 5 priming cycles to get to 25 psi. Cold engine was fine.
Don't ask me how that's possible I have no idea..

We just got very lucky that this happened!!!
As I said it never appeared before during pressure tests. Changed pump car runs like new.

I hope this helps someone, so that they don't have to go through the same time frame where you can only drive your car for 10 minutes and then have to let it sit for 1 hour before you can drive it again. Quick hops to 3 stores was impossible.

Thanks to everyone that tried to help, but none of you figured it was the fuel pump either......

you guys think that might be it? Ive completely ran out of soloutions..

I have been dealing with an almost identical problem to what you initially posted for quite some time now and have replaced plug wires (three times), plugs (twice), fuel filter, cleaned manifolds and tested nearly every sensor and valve that I can think of. I also replaced my coil pack with no success. I have never had any issues with idle or stalling but I do get the misfire/bogging in the same rpm range while under more than roughly half throttle. I hope that one of us runs across something soon that will benefit the other bc I know how frustrating a problem like this is.

Originally posted by cuda06:
I have been dealing with an almost identical problem to what you initially posted for quite some time now and have replaced plug wires (three times), plugs (twice), fuel filter, cleaned manifolds and tested nearly every sensor and valve that I can think of. I also replaced my coil pack with no success. I have never had any issues with idle or stalling but I do get the misfire/bogging in the same rpm range while under more than roughly half throttle. I hope that one of us runs across something soon that will benefit the other bc I know how frustrating a problem like this is.

then I guess for you, you should try a new fuel pump

Are the wires in the plastic holders going over the engine? It seems you checked for carbon tracking. On my Mystique one of the wires sits kind of close to a ground screw, make sure the wires are away from metal.

check the fuel filter, it might be plugged and causing some resistance on the fuel pressure. Hell get a Fuel pressure gauge to see whats going on.

Originally posted by Tourige:
check the fuel filter, it might be plugged and causing some resistance on the fuel pressure. Hell get a Fuel pressure gauge to see whats going on.

fuel filter is brand new, not even a month old. I inspected the plugs and wires today and it all seemed legit, no sign of carbon buildup

Fuel pres Guage? that'll tell you if the pump is dying.

Originally posted by Tourige:
Fuel pres Guage? that'll tell you if the pump is dying.

i havent done that yet, dont know howto

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by Tourige:
Fuel pres Guage? that'll tell you if the pump is dying.

i havent done that yet, dont know howto

Im sure if you searched...

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by Tourige:
Fuel pres Guage? that'll tell you if the pump is dying.

i havent done that yet, dont know howto

get a fuel pressure gage and you attach it to the fuel rail where the schreader valve is, start her up and see what it reads, iirc the duratec is about 35 to 40 psi when running

from past experience: fuel pump.

Most members hate Bosch+4 plugs.I,ve replaced both of
my duratecs with bosch plugs and the problem went away!

Originally posted by outkast:
Most members hate Bosch+4 plugs.I,ve replaced both of
my duratecs with bosch plugs and the problem went away!

autolites never gave anyone trouble either..

Check your fuel Pressure. My friend had the same thing you have on his 1990 Jeep 4x4. It was the fuel pump as well.

Originally posted by SquareHead:
Check your fuel Pressure. My friend had the same thing you have on his 1990 Jeep 4x4. It was the fuel pump as well.

I will tommorow

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
I searched and found this

Originally posted by chongo:
Engine will misfire after it's sat warm. Either idling or stuck in traffic. Loss of power, engine may stall. Would run good (no misfires)if on highway or roads with little or no traffic. Misfires were on cylinder 2 & 3 no other codes.

It was finally solved as the fuel pump was bad . It didn't show on any fuel line pressure tests or obd2 scanner tests.
Idle psi was fine, hold psi fine...etc.

you guys think that might be it? Ive completely ran out of soloutions..

This used to happen to my car every once and awhile, and it would only happen with less than a half a tank of gas and on hot days... Well one sunday morning last summer I ran outta gas and burnt the fuel pump out, had it replaced and have yet to have it happen again.

Originally posted by BrApple:

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by Tourige:
Fuel pres Guage? that'll tell you if the pump is dying.

i havent done that yet, dont know howto

get a fuel pressure gage and you attach it to the fuel rail where the schreader valve is, start her up and see what it reads, iirc the duratec is about 35 to 40 psi when running

checked it today and it was 40psi..thats a relief

now I guess I should try the coil pack?

I had a misfire problem and it turned out to be the lame assed coil pack.

Accel makes a coil pack for us now and they claim it has a highed power output

I would have tried it out if I hadn't already payed for an OEM unit from Bill J.

Scroll down to the bottom of this page You'd want the 140036 because it has the vertical connector

guess it'll be the coil pack now..think that might fix my idle problem?

If you have a bad coil pack, then it could easily cause an idle problem.

Originally posted by TC'd Swazo:
If you have a bad coil pack, then it could easily cause an idle problem.

well lets hope that it is cause after this, im outa ideas

well you can just get a coil pack from autozone to try and if that doesn't fix it, you can just return it

i had the same problem on the se before and thought it was my coil pack but it ended up being my wires. had bosch wires on there for about a month that fixed the misfiring but then it came back and actually started to melt one of the boots on the wire. ended up getting some autolite wires and those ran pretty well.

oh yeah and i changed the fuel pump filter too. that helped smooth everything out a LOT. idle and acceleration were as smooth as a baby's bottom.

Originally posted by ronin45:
oh yeah and i changed the fuel pump filter too. that helped smooth everything out a LOT. idle and acceleration were as smooth as a baby's bottom.

well my fuel filter is brand new (2 months old) fuel pump is working fine with the psi being at 43..my wires are brand new magnecors..plugs are brand new with no
signs on carbon after 2 months of use..so i hope like hell its my coil pack..

so get a coil pack..and come to UCONN

Originally posted by Count Chockula:
so get a coil pack..and come to UCONN

wont be here till tuesday! jesus elky i offered to drive ur svt to uconn..with my projectors..but oh well

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by outkast:
Most members hate Bosch+4 plugs.I,ve replaced both of
my duratecs with bosch plugs and the problem went away!

autolites never gave anyone trouble either..

Now why would I change from auotlites to bosch?
It could be the mixed fuels we use in Maryland

PUT THE STOCK REPLACEMENTS IN!

Get the Magnacores out!

Even Magnacore wires suck for the Evo.

Originally posted by LocoGSR:
PUT THE STOCK REPLACEMENTS IN!

Get the Magnacores out!

Even Magnacore wires suck for the Evo.

this is funny because I kept the stock wires forever untill last week when i threw them away making room for new detailing stuff..and 2 days later the missfiring started..sucks doesnt it?

I have a buddy with '99 Contour with same problems...gonna go see him tomorrow and use advice found here. Added problem is that his is a Contour which is both gas and propane fired. He bought it from the State after they used a fleet of them for a couple years, I guess. Anyone see any additional problems because of this? Anyone have any previous experience with these cars? Thanks much!

Originally posted by Johnnytar:
I have a buddy with '99 Contour with same problems...gonna go see him tomorrow and use advice found here. Added problem is that his is a Contour which is both gas and propane fired. He bought it from the State after they used a fleet of them for a couple years, I guess. Anyone see any additional problems because of this? Anyone have any previous experience with these cars? Thanks much!

Propane???

Originally posted by CSVT1214:

Originally posted by Johnnytar:
I have a buddy with '99 Contour with same problems...gonna go see him tomorrow and use advice found here. Added problem is that his is a Contour which is both gas and propane fired. He bought it from the State after they used a fleet of them for a couple years, I guess. Anyone see any additional problems because of this? Anyone have any previous experience with these cars? Thanks much!

Propane???

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by CSVT1214:

Originally posted by Johnnytar:
I have a buddy with '99 Contour with same problems...gonna go see him tomorrow and use advice found here. Added problem is that his is a Contour which is both gas and propane fired. He bought it from the State after they used a fleet of them for a couple years, I guess. Anyone see any additional problems because of this? Anyone have any previous experience with these cars? Thanks much!

Propane???

He forgot to mention the optional stove in the trunk.

Karl

anywho back on topic, I recieved my coilpack today. Put it in hoping it would fix the missfire and what not. It didnt, Im pretty much at a loss now. Only thing that comes to my mind are my new Magnecore wires being sh!t..I know im not the only one having this problem, I remember Rick (bucksot77) posting about him having random missfires and what not, he too was running Magnecores. My friend and fellow CEG'r Tony (csvt1214) is also having this missfire problem, he too has newly acquired Magnecores..Now what do I do? I threw away my old stock wires after keeping them for 2 months thinking nothing would happen and a week late all this. Now where do I go?

Could these really be faulty Magnecore wires?

I'd go to RockAuto or over to Autozone and pick up new wires to be sure. Like it was stated, you are not the first to replace OEM wires with the magnecore set and have problems. I would get the motorcraft wire set from Rock Auto personally, unless you need it same-day, then I would try the Duralast from AutoZone. I have the Duralast from autozone on my 99se, and there is no misfire, but I often wonder if it would run any better with performance wires or not.

you think I should contact Joe at SP and see if I can return these damm wires, I didnt pay $110 to get missfires

especially from magnecores

Its always the rear plugs that misfire!Soooo try my idea
and throw in 3 rear bosch 4 plugs!!I have them in all 3
of my duratechs....

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
you think I should contact Joe at SP and see if I can return these damm wires, I didnt pay $110 to get missfires

especially from magnecores

Don't blame the magnacores, yet!

I am running them in my 3L.

I had them on my 2.5L when the misfire started. I switched back to my 9mm FMS wires and the misfire was still there.

Get a voltometer and test the wires yourself. If you have a manual for your car there is an explanation of how to test your wires!

Try this!

fair enough, I'll try it tommorow, thanks pete..if my wires are legit then it obviously has to be my plugs then correct?

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
fair enough, I'll try it tommorow, thanks pete..if my wires are legit then it obviously has to be my plugs then correct?

Most likely...I replaced my plugs once with the brand new coil and they foiled again. I took the coil back under warranty and am now running a brand new one in my 3L, with new plugs, and the old magnacores.

Try checking plug gaps, I ran mine at .050, a little less than specified for the standard Duratec, so they spark earlier. Seems good over 6 months.

Originally posted by FavoriteMystaque:
Try checking plug gaps, I ran mine at .050, a little less than specified for the standard Duratec, so they spark earlier. Seems good over 6 months.

Closing the gap also diminishes spark intensity. My experience has been that you should set at the high end of spec for most cars. You don't close the gap unless you have boost.

Originally posted by Big Jim:

Originally posted by FavoriteMystaque:
Try checking plug gaps, I ran mine at .050, a little less than specified for the standard Duratec, so they spark earlier. Seems good over 6 months.

Closing the gap also diminishes spark intensity. My experience has been that you should set at the high end of spec for most cars. You don't close the gap unless you have boost.

(Carson on)

I did not know that

(Carson off)

Yes, I knew that about spark intensity. I do believe Less gap=less voltage=less likely to carbon track, so far so good for me. I imagine if voltage was too low=narrow gap, it could misfire too.

Originally posted by mapoftazifoshoâ�??¢:

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
fair enough, I'll try it tommorow, thanks pete..if my wires are legit then it obviously has to be my plugs then correct?

Most likely...I replaced my plugs once with the brand new coil and they foiled again. I took the coil back under warranty and am now running a brand new one in my 3L, with new plugs, and the old magnacores.

voltage seems fine..so i guess its off to getting new plugs..i have autolites in at the moment so which ones should I go with now?

Try this topic: Plug tracking/misfiring There are links to pictures of carbon tracking in that topic, and you should use silicone grease in the plug boots. Make sure the sparkplug socket wrench is clean as well, to prevent tracking. Try a new set of stock wires (motorcraft/autolite). I hope you fix it, I hated that misfiring when I had it!

We've tried new coil, new wires, and plugs, also playing a bit with the gap and to no avail. I'm now turning to checking the Idle Air Control valve for sticking.

hi,

i am new here and i'm having the same problem.. after changing fuel pump and EGR sensor misfire problem reduced but it's still there annoying at low revs ... do you guys think i should go for plugs/wires/coils replacement??
regarding brands magnecor seems to be very good from your posts but i dont think i can buy them around here so my options are stock, ngk or bosch ..

thx

Welcome to CEG

I would recommend OEM wires and plugs,coil or Autolite versions. This topic was about the V6 Duratec, but I imagine the same applies to the Mondy 2.0 Zetec.

Go ahead and start your own topic, it will be easier to keep track of, and you will get better answers.

Originally posted by BeetleJuice:
hi,

i am new here and i'm having the same problem.. after changing fuel pump and EGR sensor misfire problem reduced but it's still there annoying at low revs ... do you guys think i should go for plugs/wires/coils replacement??
regarding brands magnecor seems to be very good from your posts but i dont think i can buy them around here so my options are stock, ngk or bosch ..

thx

Generally the most common reason for a misfire is spark plugs/wires/coil. So in response to your question.. probably should have been the first group of things you should have replaced.

Originally posted by BeetleJuice:
hi,

i am new here ..... ..

Welcome BeetleJuice

ty for the replies.. i will try the coil/wire/plug's replacement and post the results asap

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by mapoftazifoshoâ�??¢:

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
fair enough, I'll try it tommorow, thanks pete..if my wires are legit then it obviously has to be my plugs then correct?

Most likely...I replaced my plugs once with the brand new coil and they foiled again. I took the coil back under warranty and am now running a brand new one in my 3L, with new plugs, and the old magnacores.

voltage seems fine..so i guess its off to getting new plugs..i have autolites in at the moment so which ones should I go with now?

anyone?

New Autolite double platinums, or Motorcraft equivalent. Pep Boys has them. I had one not thread in because of a "fat" weld on the ground electrode. Avoid Bosch in these cars.

I have champions in at the moment with no issues. I will say tho, that all my misfires were under autlite dbl plats. Coincidence, perhaps, but who knows...

Originally posted by mapoftazifoshoâ�??¢:
I have champions in at the moment with no issues. I will say tho, that all my misfires were under autlite dbl plats. Coincidence, perhaps, but who knows...

i shall try champions tommorow..

They make double platinum and Iridium for the SVT (www.championsparkplugs.com.) That's a famous brand, hope it runs perfectly afterwards! Use some silcone grease on the plug boots and make sure your socket wrench is clean, to avoid misfires.

my car just started doing this on Easter on the way back on a 3 hour trip from my parents house.

We just recently rebuilt the engine.. it has almost 2k on it now.. ran perfectly on the way there.. only random issue I ever had prior was a high idle at times..

New Ford Racing wires
New Autolite Double Plats

You think I should swap the coilpack? it is the original but I do have a spare from a cougar I bought for spare parts. Also, we didn't replace the fuel filter.. umm, who the hell knows how old that could be.

I kept thinking that I got bad gas ... as the only thing I did once we got to my parents house was fill the tank prior to parking it.. I added 1/2 tank of premimum from a pump that was rusty and I thought perhaps I might have been the only person who used premimum in like.. forever.

In the 3 hour trip we misfired 2 times pretty badly where the tach went down to about 500 rpm's while attempting to go 60 mph.. and then about 4 other smaller misfires..

It sat all day yesterday.. I tried to take it to the pet store and immediately it started misfiring again pretty badly..

Mine seems to misfire bad on a cold engine but lessen when warm..

ideas? thanks in advance.. I really love this car and it kills me that its again sitting in my driveway not being driven

Maybe bad plug wires from the get go. I know of someone that had the FMS wires and they failed out of the box. He got Megnecore's and was good to go.

http://www.apexperformance.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=627&cid=10

but wouldn't they have acted up right away? like I said almost 2k on the rebuild and no misfiring prior even on the 3 hour trip down - just on the way back and now with any trip taken

I just put in both a new set of Magnecors and a set of Autolite double plats. No troubles here. I hope you get this figured out. Good luck.

They can act up anytime. If you have any spare wires even stock throw those on and see what happens.

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:
but wouldn't they have acted up right away? like I said almost 2k on the rebuild and no misfiring prior even on the 3 hour trip down - just on the way back and now with any trip taken

i had a set of plug wires go just like that, without warning, I drove back from New Hampshire on a sunday, didn't driv ethe car monday then on tuesday it got worse as the day went on

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
They can act up anytime. If you have any spare wires even stock throw those on and see what happens.

I replaced my FMS wires and coil with known-to-be-working pices....no helpy....

I'm going to pull a plug and make sure they're double plats tomorrow.

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
They can act up anytime. If you have any spare wires even stock throw those on and see what happens.

I'll try that later when I get home.. I have 2 extra sets of stock wires laying around - guess its worth a try.

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:

Originally posted by Todd aRRRRRRRRR.:
They can act up anytime. If you have any spare wires even stock throw those on and see what happens.

I'll try that later when I get home.. I have 2 extra sets of stock wires laying around - guess its worth a try.

heeey wanna shoot a set my way

hehehehe

they were on my ever growing pile of parts to sell.. looks like right now I might need the extra plug wires and coil packs that I do have

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:
they were on my ever growing pile of parts to sell.. looks like right now I might need the extra plug wires and coil packs that I do have

aww man, i thought u said u had 2 sets of wires which is why i was asking..

anywho I changed my plugs again today, the missfire was still there but it was a lot better, bucking was happening at 2K even..only one buck, then normal...so it has to be my wires?

also I've had my code on for the downstream O2's cause of my headers, its been on for 2 months now so I was wondering, that wouldnt spark somthing like bad air-fuel mix causing my car to miss-fire? Im gettin MIL's soon..

Yah I have 2 sets of OEM Ford wires and now a set of Blue Ford Racing wires sitting in my garage.

I swapped back to a set of OEM wires and I still had a few misfires..

As soon as I turned the key I had a crazy idle that was all over the place.. ranged from 500rpm all the way to 2500rpm all at neutral before I even attempted to drive it.

What controls the idle like that? is there some sort of sensor going out? I'm pretty sure that the wires and plugs are fine on the car.. I didn't swap the coil pack but I made sure that I routed and pressed on everything really well.. infact probably better than the Ford Racing ones were on originally.

Help.. Day 3 of not being able to drive the car is approaching.. The sudden spastastic jerks when attempting to drive makes me want to cry

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:
...I swapped back to a set of OEM wires and I still had a few misfires..

As soon as I turned the key I had a crazy idle that was all over the place.. ranged from 500rpm all the way to 2500rpm all at neutral before I even attempted to drive it.

What controls the idle like that? is there some sort of sensor going out? I'm pretty sure that the wires and plugs are fine on the car.. ....

What CEL codes? Vacuum leak (broken hose)? Incorrect wire sequence?

Duratec V6 Spark Plug wiring order

Firewall side
4- 6 -5 <--coil pack
3-2-1

1-2-3 <--engine
4-5-6
Radiator side
Spark Plug gap 0.054 inch

The wiring order is correct.. I paid attention to the coil pack and how the Ford Racing wires came out and then double checked with my Haynes manual.

I've got a CEL for O2 sensors not working and we've already swapped both upstream sensors with brand new Motorcraft ones.. light went out for about 5 minutes and the engine got super quiet.. light came back on and the engine got loud again.

The shop told me to take it back, which I shall but right now I'm waiting on some parts to arrive from Bill Jenkins before it goes back..

As far as the misfiring and idle problem, I'd like to get that taken care of before as I need to drive it to the shop.. I'm going to swap the coil pack later after work tonight for 5hits and giggles.. if that doesn't fix it then I think its time to test the fuel pressure.

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:
The wiring order is correct.. I paid attention to the coil pack and how the Ford Racing wires came out and then double checked with my Haynes manual.

I've got a CEL for O2 sensors not working and we've already swapped both upstream sensors with brand new Motorcraft ones.. light went out for about 5 minutes and the engine got super quiet.. light came back on and the engine got loud again.

The shop told me to take it back, which I shall but right now I'm waiting on some parts to arrive from Bill Jenkins before it goes back..

As far as the misfiring and idle problem, I'd like to get that taken care of before as I need to drive it to the shop.. I'm going to swap the coil pack later after work tonight for 5hits and giggles.. if that doesn't fix it then I think its time to test the fuel pressure.

Shoot, I drove my 2.5L with a misfire all day long for months!

I couldn't fig out the problem, but I had no other choice. To be honest...I never really fig'd out what was causing it!

WHen I put the 3L in I used the same wires, but a new coil and new champion platium plugs.

another question, my magnecores seem to touch towards the end near the coil pack..i hear that sometimes when wires touch they seem to give out current to the other wire or somthing like that..could that be my problem or not with the magnecores?

I thought they were made from a material specifically designed NOT to do that. I'd have to double check on that. I know mine are touching a BIT by the coil. Maybe try to separate them a bit more?

alright so I took out the new plugs again cause I didnt gap them yesterday. After I gapped them, I applied that boot non-stick stuff onto the plug and inside the boot head..Drove the car around, no low end missfire..although Im not 100% positive, but I did feel power, so im gettin close..

I swapped plug wires back to the OEM ones on Tuesday night.. Last night I swapped coil packs.. removed the battery and checked all my grounds.. Found 1 ground sitting in some standing water - removed it and attached it to the negative battery terminal as it was a ground that was attached to 2 areas of the car - as in a ground grounding itself?

Anyways I got in the car - started it up and the idle was kinda all over the place yet.. CEL was gone -- drove it a few blocks, misfired -- drove it a bit more - took it to the gas station and threw in another 1/2 tank of good premimum gas -- started it up, drove a block, misfired and CEL came back on. Kept driving and in a few more blocks it misfired BAD - really BAD.. it was almost impossible to drive, attempted to give gas harder and it did not help - I had to just put in the clutch and coast to the side, turn it off and back on.. then drive away. When it misfired bad I could smell rotten eggs really strong. Got the car home after a few more misfires and kept it running.. I noticed that the exhaust seemed to almost "rattle" a bit now and shake under the car with it running.

Talked to the person who helped me rebuild everything and he thinks its the fuel filter.. we forgot to change it and the past owner confirmed that the car sat for over a year before I bought it from him (spun bearing)

We gut the cats and built mil eliminators and replaced both upstream sensors due to a code stating that all O2 sensors were not working.

I'm seriously at a loss right now.. I agree that the fuel filter should have been changed immediately but if that doesn't do it, what next?

Beside the fuel pressure test how can you tell your fuel pump is going? I own a return Cougar and this car is also return.. I never had the fuel pump problems of the 2000 up Cougars that I've heard of so I have nothing to reference.. Wouldn't the car just stop running? I had a Saturn SC2 a few years back and I thought I ran outta gas as it just died, I was low - but definately not low enough to run out.. we added a can of gas and it was still dead.. towed it to the dealer and they said it was the fuel pump. Wouldn't the same deal apply to this car? It sputters like all hell and bucks when it misfires but when it does run good its smooth and has normal power.

One step at a time. Try the fuel filter first.

Goonz, I think you solved your problem, there is more power and a nice steady acceleration

when all is well!

Originally posted by FavoriteMystaque:
Goonz, I think you solved your problem, there is more power and a nice steady acceleration when all is well!

well i just got back from class and today on the way back, I def. felt the bucking again at exactly 2k rpm and then it was smooth after, only feel one buck thats all..but yes I do feel power. I guess I'm getting close, now I hafta see if someone will loan me their stock SVT wires..

still looking for the ones i had...no clue where they went

Want to buy my extra set? I have 1 extra set in addition to the ford racing wires.. plus I could also pilfer another set of ford racing ones off the Cougar if needed - I had a misfire episode at CF last year and they tested fine.

BTW -- how should a coil pack look? should all the inner socket holes be clean and metal looking? each of the packs I have a little of white corrosion inside a few of them. The one I took off had 1 with white power inside and the one I put on had 2.

im not spending money unless I know for sure what the problem is which is why I only want to see if someones old SVT set would work..im not buying at the moment..im outa $$

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by FavoriteMystaque:
Goonz, I think you solved your problem, there is more power and a nice steady acceleration when all is well!

well i just got back from class and today on the way back, I def. felt the bucking again at exactly 2k rpm and then it was smooth after, only feel one buck thats all..but yes I do feel power. I guess I'm getting close, now I hafta see if someone will loan me their stock SVT wires..

Yup, mine is misfiring at the exact same RPM also.

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
im not spending money unless I know for sure what the problem is which is why I only want to see if someones old SVT set would work..im not buying at the moment..im outa $$

You pay for shipping to you and back and you can borrow a set of mine as long as you return them or pay for them if it solves your problem.

Bummer, but at least it helped to regap and grease. Just get new stock wires when cash flow allows, install carefully with the silicone grease, clean socket and proper wire arrangement. Good luck. BTW, I found the snaps very stiff to get the wires on the plugs, worth checking.

I either have a bad injector or the wiring/computer is going bad. I keep losing #3 cylinder. It started with an intermittent miss at high speeds in overdrive. It probably was there at lower speeds, but the gear ratio/rpm combo was hiding it. When the car is in OD the engine is working at a lower rpm with no reduction so the loss of one cylinder is more noticable. I'm taking it apart this weekend.

Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
I either have a bad injector or the wiring/computer is going bad. I keep losing #3 cylinder. It started with an intermittent miss at high speeds in overdrive. It probably was there at lower speeds, but the gear ratio/rpm combo was hiding it. When the car is in OD the engine is working at a lower rpm with no reduction so the loss of one cylinder is more noticable. I'm taking it apart this weekend.

Did u do the UIM/LIM rebuild latly?

Originally posted by Tourige:

Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
I either have a bad injector or the wiring/computer is going bad. I keep losing #3 cylinder. It started with an intermittent miss at high speeds in overdrive. It probably was there at lower speeds, but the gear ratio/rpm combo was hiding it. When the car is in OD the engine is working at a lower rpm with no reduction so the loss of one cylinder is more noticable. I'm taking it apart this weekend.

Did u do the UIM/LIM rebuild latly?

Yes - last fall.

thought I would whip in here and give an update as to my condition..

I changed the fuel filter last weekend and after that it got about a million times worse.. Infact after I did that I could barely keep the car running.. Decided that I was going to do a little investigating in areas I could not see as I swapped the damn wires and coil pack 3 times w/o success!

I started searching everywhere for a vacuum leak and all of a sudden I saw the culprit..

I must have hit a pretty nice bump and the Crankshaft position sensor wiring came out of being tucked up inside an engine cavity and fell against the serpentine belt and was rubbing.. it didn't cut it in half but it rubbed the wires completely raw in spots and I assume that it just kept getting worse with each test drive and test rev I did with the engine.

so we cut the wires and spliced it back together and then ziptied the wiring all nice, neat and tight so it cant happen again

The car runs like a goddamn top now..

Not sure if we just didn't push the wiring back on the same pegs or whatever when we rebuilt it and dropped it back into the car or this could happen to someone else with hitting bumps pretty hard -- but if anyone ever has some of the same symptoms I had its worth looking at your wiring to the crankshaft position sensor..

I hope the rest of you have figured out your running problems.

Good for you. Nice investigating work!

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:
its worth looking at your wiring to the crankshaft position sensor..

hmm i should check mine out! where is it located?

Originally posted by Goonz SVT:

Originally posted by NVMYSVT:
its worth looking at your wiring to the crankshaft position sensor..

... where is it located?

From Ford CD.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Raise vehicle on a hoist (or jack up and put on jack stands).
3. On 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles, remove splash shield from RH front fender apron.
4. Disconnect the fuel charging wiring or engine control sensor wiring (depending upon application) from the crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor).
5. Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt and remove crankshaft position sensor.

Installation
1. Make sure crankshaft position sensor mounting surface is clean. If equipped, make sure that the crankshaft position sensor O-ring is in proper location on crankshaft position sensor.
2. CAUTION: Do not overtighten crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt or damage to the crankshaft position sensor may occur.
Position crankshaft position sensor and install retaining bolt. On 2.0L engine-equipped vehicles, tighten retaining bolt to 6-9 N-m (53-80 lb-in). On 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles, tighten retaining bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
3. Properly route fuel charging wiring or engine control sensor wiring (depending upon application) and connect electrical connector to crankshaft position sensor.
4. On 2.5L engine-equipped vehicles, install splash shield. Tighten retaining screws securely.
5. Lower vehicle.
6. Connect battery ground cable.

Picture compliments of Chongo.

Originally posted by chongo:

See if the wires harness is lose. Tough to test it as the PID's on the service cd need the car running.
Autozone sells them for $13.99
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
1998 FORD CONTOUR WELLS SU292 3 MO $13.99

okay my car is still missfiring..after a new coilpack, new wires, new plugs and a new TPS..only thing I haven checked is the crankshaft position sensor yet..I will do that tonight but other then that i have no idea what to do now?

my SZ hopes are slowly fading..

Good Luck Goonz