Been having an issue with a rough idle sinc ei got the car on the road again two weeks ago. This idle issue is also joined by 22-24 MPG highway mileage, if that matters.
After days of searching and testing here is what i've done so far:
1) replaced IAC with one i know was good of my SE(RIP)
2) checked for vac leak....did not find one (my personal culprit for my issues, any know area to check for leak?)
3) replaced EVR with a new one recently installed on my SE
4) has new revised DPFE sensor
5) ran a bottle of injector cleaner through it, no help
6) removed and cleaned MAF wires
7) reset the PCM
8) full UIM\LIM rebuild
9) installed a TPS i know is good
10) ford racing wires with new autolite double plats propperly gapped
I was getting 30 MPG out of my SE w\o the headers.....
I'm not throwing any codes.
FWIW, i'm running stock exhaust off a set of MSDS headers with opt y and MIL eliminators, ru3530.
I'm at my wits end guys, please help.
lol I have the EXACT problem and i hate life at the moment!
im running 3 codes
1121
1131
1151
that dammn TPS is pissing me off! its brand new and still its giving me sh!t..its not broken or anything..
sorry its not the 1121..it was 1120, my bad
I'm not throwing any codes...but thanks.
11) Tested EGR, it's not stuck open(another possibility i found searching)
Originally posted by pole120:
I'm not throwing any codes...but thanks.
11) Tested EGR, it's not stuck open(another possibility i found searching)
Mark told be about some vacuum lines behind the engine which I had no idea what he was talking about lol
Anyone?
I don't know where to go from here...
Is it rough from an cylinder missing or overall rough? Cylinder miss will be heard in the exhaust with a "boomp - boomp" kind of sound. Sometimes the engine is running fine - it's the engine mount that is screwed up. All the usual engine vibrations are being transmitted to the chassis from metal to metal contact.
Check your timing belt and overall timing. Has your belt ever been changed?
Check it closely.
Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
Is it rough from an cylinder missing or overall rough? Cylinder miss will be heard in the exhaust with a "boomp - boomp" kind of sound.
I don't know enough to say...its idling at the propper RPM, just rough. Vibration and shiddering is constant, and my fuel economy sucks. What would you susopect be the cause of a miss?
Josh
Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
Is it rough from an cylinder missing or overall rough? Cylinder miss will be heard in the exhaust with a "boomp - boomp" kind of sound.
I don't know enough to say...its idling at the propper RPM, just rough. Vibration and shiddering is constant, and my fuel economy sucks. What would you susopect be the cause of a miss?
Josh
see my idle dips up and down untill it settles down..it sux!
yea i've got the same problem except my car is licky to get 18 mpg on the highway
Is ther a way to test the injectors....more searching tells me i might have a leak injector..........
I found a site one time on the web that had some tests. IIRC put a pressure gauge on the line, pressurize the system, turn the fuel pump off and observe the pressure. If it drops quickly and goes away the fuel is either leaking down the injector or the pump is leaking back into the tank.
Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
I found a site one time on the web that had some tests. IIRC put a pressure gauge on the line, pressurize the system, turn the fuel pump off and observe the pressure. If it drops quickly and goes away the fuel is either leaking down the injector or the pump is leaking back into the tank.
Good thinking! one more thing i can try this weekend. Do you think ineed a particular pressure gauge?
Josh
Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
I found a site one time on the web that had some tests. IIRC put a pressure gauge on the line, pressurize the system, turn the fuel pump off and observe the pressure. If it drops quickly and goes away the fuel is either leaking down the injector or the pump is leaking back into the tank.
Good thinking! one more thing i can try this weekend. Do you think ineed a particular pressure gauge?
Josh
im almost positive mines the fuel pump
Most AP stores have one for about 40 bucks that fits the schrader valve on the fuel rail. My valve is the smaller one and the gauge I bought has an adapter for it. If you have the return type fuel system you can check the regulator too. The pressure should be about 30-32 psi and when you kill the vacuum to the regulator it should jump to 40. Easy way to kill the vacuum is to pull the vacuum line out of the upper intake and plug the hole real fast.
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by 2X95SEs:
I found a site one time on the web that had some tests. IIRC put a pressure gauge on the line, pressurize the system, turn the fuel pump off and observe the pressure. If it drops quickly and goes away the fuel is either leaking down the injector or the pump is leaking back into the tank.
Good thinking! one more thing i can try this weekend. Do you think ineed a particular pressure gauge?
Josh
im almost positive mines the fuel pump
That's great, now stop posting so i only have to read helpfull posts, don't you have your own thread?
so what was it? I checked my pressure this morning after driving it around and etc and it was 42psi, so that rules out the fuel pump..
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
so what was it? I checked my pressure this morning after driving it around and etc and it was 42psi, so that rules out the fuel pump..
Didn't get around t otrying it yet. I'm also going to look into the coil, and swap out the ford 9mm's for stock once perhaps tonight.
Originally posted by pole120:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
so what was it? I checked my pressure this morning after driving it around and etc and it was 42psi, so that rules out the fuel pump..
Didn't get around t otrying it yet. I'm also going to look into the coil, and swap out the ford 9mm's for stock once perhaps tonight.
yea i ordered a new coil pack over the weekend
Originally posted by Yummy Mummy:
Maybe a vac leak?
I've seachend and re-searched for that exact issue as it seems to match my problems the best, however i have yet to find it (if it exists). I've actually been throwing around the idea fo re-doing the vac system with rubber hose once just to see if it improves.....
Any suggestions, or prices on new vac pieces?
Call jenkins and ask for a price on the hard line bundle of vac hoses. I thought I read a post where it wasn't too bad.
Originally posted by Yummy Mummy:
Call jenkins and ask for a price on the hard line bundle of vac hoses. I thought I read a post where it wasn't too bad.
I have not been pleased with him whatsoever lately, so i'll look elsewhere, thanks Todd.
Well if you can find the part # let me know. Would be good for the 3L forum.
Originally posted by Yummy Mummy:
Well if you can find the part # let me know. Would be good for the 3L forum.
I'll try my best. Fortuantly my old man has some local dealer conections so it shouldn't be a problem.
Josh
Just happened to be on the phone with Bill this afternoon.
He has the vacuum line 'harness' (apparently the only way to get the vacuum lines is the whole bundle of tubes and connectors). Price is ~$75-80.
Tried another set of wires and a coil pack, no help.
Vacuum system IS getting re-done this weekend...and $70 is rediculous, i'll do it my self.
Josh
we've tried wires, coil pack, plugs, and fiddling with the gap now and all to no avail. Gonna try and clean IAC prior to going for fuel pump. Vacuum seems OK...smoke tested by dealer. Runs pretty good on highway but rough idle comes and goes...sometimes stalls out right in the garage. Very perplexing.
I've given up for the time being, but after talking to another CERer who listened to my exhaust something is definitly not right.
Josh
Originally posted by pole120:
I've given up for the time being, but after talking to another CERer who listened to my exhaust something is definitly not right.
Josh
keep me posted Josh, Im right there with ya 
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by pole120:
I've given up for the time being, but after talking to another CERer who listened to my exhaust something is definitly not right.
Josh
keep me posted Josh, Im right there with ya
You too if you try anything else. I STILL have to find time to rebuild my vac system.
Don't engines burn valves anymore? Everyone is looking at electrical/vacuum/fuel systems for rough idle conditions. Eventually you're going to run out of parts to replace. It might be time to do a compression test.
Karl
Originally posted by ck42:
Just happened to be on the phone with Bill this afternoon.
He has the vacuum line 'harness' (apparently the only way to get the vacuum lines is the whole bundle of tubes and connectors). Price is ~$75-80.
Yea you can get the hard lines for cheap at a local parts place. Won't have the fancy bends though or the molded barbs. Just heat the tips with a lighter and push a nail in so it will flare out.