I dont know where to begin...Tony (csvt1214) will also describe as he was there helping me with the clean up..
We did a whole UIM/LIM clean up..new manifold gaskets, egr gasket, TB gaskets..changed the plugs to the autolite P740 or whatever it is..wires to the magnecor 8.5..everything went smooth..only thing we were having some problemm with were the wires..they seem to be very lose on the plugs even though we pushed hard on them to make sure they were stuck on but yet again they would come off with the slightest force which was very odd..another thing that broke was the Vaccum hose that feeds in the UIM, we kinda taped it for temporary untill i can get a new one from ford..I'm not gnona drive it untill i have that, we taped it just so we could fire it up and see if she was normal, but no, somthing had to go wrong
all said and done came time to start, wouldnt start, the engine was turning but no start..Tony and I read up that some maybe used the gas peddle pumping methood so we tried that..nothing..only heard minor pop sounds during the car trying the start..then my battery died after trying to start it for a while..jumped it and then got back to starting it again..it was starting to turn over and finally it did with rediculous rough idle so we kept it reved high for a bit..after almost 5 min we let go so that it could idle on its own for a bit..(we did pull the computer fuse before starting to reset it)..we then took it for a minor test drive to see if kick somthin in the engine..Tony drove and he said he was flooring it with absoloutly NO power..and my exhaust was EXTRA EXTRA loud, we drove it around the block and came back to my house, popped open the hood and saw the front header lit up red
he shut of the car and we smelled somthin burning..luckily there was no smell of gas or anything like that around the UIM/LIM..but that fron header was lit up for a good 10 min untill it cooled down (it was pouring out too) we checked everything, all the wires seemed to have been in place..the wires connecting to the coil pack were all in the right order. I dont get it everything we did was exactly as told in the HowTo's..What got Tony confused was the fact that why my front header was soo hott that it was lit up red?!? It still idle'd rough..after we killed the engine I dare not start it untill i know whats going on, the nearest autozone is like 10 miles so I cant go get a code reading, I know I'll get a bunch once I go back and try to restart it..Tony will chime in on more details..
I dont know what happened? why the hell was the header lit up!?!?and just the front one too, not the back one
First of all did u clean hte intakes while o nthe car??
So did u dump alot of cleaner down the intakes??
The migh tbe the problem too much cleaner was spayed or poured into th elim to clean it resulting in a flood of fluid in the combustion chamber!!
Pop noises is miss fire, did u make sure hte wires are all in correct fireing order. don;t mess up the front wires 132 fireing order
Originally posted by Arhethia:
First of all did u clean hte intakes while o nthe car??
So did u dump alot of cleaner down the intakes??
The migh tbe the problem too much cleaner was spayed or poured into th elim to clean it resulting in a flood of fluid in the combustion chamber!!
Pop noises is miss fire, did u make sure hte wires are all in correct fireing order. don;t mess up the front wires 132 fireing order
Both manifolds were cleaned after being removed from the engine. All holes were plugged up to avoid anything dropping into the heads.
We will have to check the firing order again, but we did check it and everything appeared to be in the correct order.
My guess would be:
1. Main Problem: crossed spark plug wire(s).
2. Too much cleaner inside the engine prior to startup. Did you turn over the engine AFTER the cleaning with the spark plugs OUT to pump any cleaning solvent out of the combustion chambers?
Cleaner will burn out within a minute.
Excessive unburned gas from a mixture problem or lots of missing will get to the CAT and cause very high temperatures. If only the front CAT glowed red then the main problem is on that bank.
Carefully pull the plug boots back some, snap onto an old plug, and then push the boot back down.
I'm having a similar problem. I just finished the cleaning, and it's all back together. It cranks, but there's no popping or any sounds of life at all. I got some cleaner in the cylinders, but I cranked it with the plugs out last night. There's no CEL other than a coolant level. Ideas?
I have spark, and there's gas on the plugs, so I seem to have fuel. WTF? I put in a tighter TH fix plug while I was in there, but I was on the gas while cranking, so that doesn't seem like it could be it. I'll let them cyliners dry out and try again later without the plug, I guess.
Yep! I found about five other threads where you gave that advice. Sure enough, a little oil in the cylinders got it going after a LOT of cranking and stumbling. It smoothed out now, and all seems fine!
Well today I went out to start just to see if it'll behave differently. It started right up but I could tell it was rough (alot better then last night though) I kep it running for a bit and ocasionally heard pop sounds from the back which prolly is backfire, I dont smell gas in the engine bay so thats good
I havent driven it yet, just want it to settle down and etc. The car is very turbulent though..everything is shaking really hard. You can see my steering wheel jittering strongly. It doesnt seem the car has smoothed out, or will it later on? I need to order that vacuum hose because its barely on the UIM and I can hear it leakin out
another side note..after leaving the car started for about 15min..I started to hear popping sounds. I rev'd the engine and I heard loud continuous pop sounds, then I shut the engine off..
Just for grins, go and check the spark plug wiring again.
Firewall side
4- 6 -5 <--coil pack
3-2-1
1-2-3 <--engine
4-5-6
Radiator side
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Just for grins, go and check the spark plug wiring again.
That's certainly where my money is. Of every PM, phone call, and IM I've received about running rough after cleanings, its been the wiring order.
Goonz, If You Are Talking About One Of The Hard Vacuum Lines That Goes Into The Upper Intake. You Can No Longer Buy Those Individually Through Ford...Without Buying The UIM Assembly!!!! AAARRGGHH!!! I Ran Into That Problem After Cleaning My Manifolds. I Went To The Junkyard And Pulled The Hard Line. Paid like Five Bucks.
My Car Wouldn't Start Due To That Leak. But I Also Have Another Theory About The No Start Problem People Sometimes Have. I've Noticed That When Our Cars Are Shut Off For Maintenance Reasons For A Good Amount Of Time That They Will Crank But Not Start Right Away. I Believe This Is Due To The Hydraulic Lifters Leaking Down And Oil Pressure Is Not Readily Available To Pump Up The Lifters. No Lifters=No Valve Opening=No Start. This Has Been Most Noticeable When The Cars Are On Jackstands On The Front Of The Vehicle. Sorry To Go Off On A Tangent, But Thought It May Be Relevant In Some Of These No Start Cases. If You Believe This May Be Your Culprit Some Time, Pull your Fuel Pump Fuse And Crank For A Bit To Build Oil Pressure.
The Rough Idle Could Be Either The Plug Wires Crossed Or Even The Vacuum Line Leaking!!! But With The Glowing Header, I've Got To Go With Ray And Say The Plug Wires Are Crossed Somewhere.
Originally posted by Oscar Nominated Ray:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Just for grins, go and check the spark plug wiring again.
That's certainly where my money is. Of every PM, phone call, and IM I've received about running rough after cleanings, its been the wiring order.
sure enough it was..car runs smooth and starts right up..instead of being 465 on the coilpacl, it was 546! I wasnt the one who did that area 
anywho about the vacuum line, maybe i should try a junk yard then, are the se and SVT lines are different?
No They Are The Same, That's What I Used And Fits Perfectly. Just Be Careful Not To Break The Small Plastic Retaining Ring That Is Left In The UIM Boss. If You Look On Your UIm You;ll See That The Line Pops Into This Ring (Actually It Is More Like A Sleeve). In Order To Pull One From The Junk Yard, It Is Much Safer To Have The UIM Removed From That Vehicle So you Can Use A Pocket Screwdriver to Pop The Line Out From The Bottom. This Will Help To Ensure That You Don't Break The Line Or The Plastic Retainer That Holds It In Place If You Need That Piece Too. Good Luck!!!
Originally posted by Pale Horse:
No They Are The Same, That's What I Used And Fits Perfectly. Just Be Careful Not To Break The Small Plastic Retaining Ring That Is Left In The UIM Boss. If You Look On Your UIm You;ll See That The Line Pops Into This Ring (Actually It Is More Like A Sleeve). In Order To Pull One From The Junk Yard, It Is Much Safer To Have The UIM Removed From That Vehicle So you Can Use A Pocket Screwdriver to Pop The Line Out From The Bottom. This Will Help To Ensure That You Don't Break The Line Or The Plastic Retainer That Holds It In Place If You Need That Piece Too. Good Luck!!!
Whats with the capitalization of every word?
Originally posted by Pale Horse:
No They Are The Same, That's What I Used And Fits Perfectly. Just Be Careful Not To Break The Small Plastic Retaining Ring That Is Left In The UIM Boss. If You Look On Your UIm You;ll See That The Line Pops Into This Ring (Actually It Is More Like A Sleeve). In Order To Pull One From The Junk Yard, It Is Much Safer To Have The UIM Removed From That Vehicle So you Can Use A Pocket Screwdriver to Pop The Line Out From The Bottom. This Will Help To Ensure That You Don't Break The Line Or The Plastic Retainer That Holds It In Place If You Need That Piece Too. Good Luck!!!
Yea I'll hit up my local junkyard tommorow
Originally posted by acammer:
Whats with the capitalization of every word?
All of his posts are like that. No one knows why. It's got to be his software, but what exactly I don't know.
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by Pale Horse:
No They Are The Same, That's What I Used And Fits Perfectly. Just Be Careful Not To Break The Small Plastic Retaining Ring That Is Left In The UIM Boss. If You Look On Your UIm You;ll See That The Line Pops Into This Ring (Actually It Is More Like A Sleeve). In Order To Pull One From The Junk Yard, It Is Much Safer To Have The UIM Removed From That Vehicle So you Can Use A Pocket Screwdriver to Pop The Line Out From The Bottom. This Will Help To Ensure That You Don't Break The Line Or The Plastic Retainer That Holds It In Place If You Need That Piece Too. Good Luck!!!
Yea I'll hit up my local junkyard tommorow
if you cant find one i got them.
Originally posted by I-Dom-In-VIII:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by Pale Horse:
No They Are The Same, That's What I Used And Fits Perfectly. Just Be Careful Not To Break The Small Plastic Retaining Ring That Is Left In The UIM Boss. If You Look On Your UIm You;ll See That The Line Pops Into This Ring (Actually It Is More Like A Sleeve). In Order To Pull One From The Junk Yard, It Is Much Safer To Have The UIM Removed From That Vehicle So you Can Use A Pocket Screwdriver to Pop The Line Out From The Bottom. This Will Help To Ensure That You Don't Break The Line Or The Plastic Retainer That Holds It In Place If You Need That Piece Too. Good Luck!!!
Yea I'll hit up my local junkyard tommorow
if you cant find one i got them.
you have a PM
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by Oscar Nominated Ray:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Just for grins, go and check the spark plug wiring again.
That's certainly where my money is. Of every PM, phone call, and IM I've received about running rough after cleanings, its been the wiring order.
sure enough it was..car runs smooth and starts right up..instead of being 465 on the coilpacl, it was 546! I wasnt the one who did that area anywho about the vacuum line, maybe i should try a junk yard then, are the se and SVT lines are different?
Damn! 
I think my brain was starting to shut down on me at 1 AM after working on the car all day. Sorry dude. 
Crap. I have a fuel leak. Everything was fine, it held pressure and worked beautifully. After running for a bit it acted rich, then VERY rich, and then I could see gas squirting out. Looks like I'll be doing this again next weekend, too. Maybe it is time to get all the injector o-rings done, huh?
The reason I'm posting is because I want to get an injector to have on hand in case one of them went - should I pick one up at Auto zone or someplace, or do I need to go to Ford, and how much are they?
Originally posted by Auto-X Fil:
Crap. I have a fuel leak. Everything was fine, it held pressure and worked beautifully. After running for a bit it acted rich, then VERY rich, and then I could see gas squirting out. Looks like I'll be doing this again next weekend, too. Maybe it is time to get all the injector o-rings done, huh?
The reason I'm posting is because I want to get an injector to have on hand in case one of them went - should I pick one up at Auto zone or someplace, or do I need to go to Ford, and how much are they?
Goonz has an extra set of O-rings for ya.
Phil, I wish i knew before I came back to SC. I have a bag of injector o-rings left over from when I did my UIM/LIM cleaning.
I have the nose o-rings, but I didn't use them because I didn't want to mess with the injectors that are only two years old. I'm looking to get a spare injector.
You can still buy the vacume lines through Ford. I snapped both my lines in a cleaning last week and I got a new set through Bill J. They're not cheap. Here's the part #'s.
F5RZ-2420-AE List $23.53 Inet $17.52
F6RZ-9E498-AD List $34.07 Inet $25.37
Those are for the two vacume lines and the inserts that plug into the UIM are:
F5RZ-2A411-A List $10.95 Inet $8.15 each
DyComet, for reference, can you specify which vacuum line is which?
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by Oscar Nominated Ray:
Originally posted by Tony2005:
Just for grins, go and check the spark plug wiring again.
That's certainly where my money is. Of every PM, phone call, and IM I've received about running rough after cleanings, its been the wiring order.
sure enough it was..car runs smooth and starts right up..instead of being 465 on the coilpacl, it was 546! I wasnt the one who did that area
Good lord how many of us have done that same thing!!!
Originally posted by DyComet:
You can still buy the vacume lines through Ford. I snapped both my lines in a cleaning last week and I got a new set through Bill J. They're not cheap. Here's the part #'s.
F5RZ-2420-AE List $23.53 Inet $17.52
F6RZ-9E498-AD List $34.07 Inet $25.37
Those are for the two vacume lines and the inserts that plug into the UIM are:
F5RZ-2A411-A List $10.95 Inet $8.15 each
your right, I just called Bill J. and ordered the needed parts, should be here wednesday
The first part # is for the brake booster and the second just says emissions assy. for the part. Glad to help
Originally posted by DyComet:
The first part # is for the brake booster and the second just says emissions assy. for the part. Glad to help
yea thanks alot man, I only needed these 2 part #'s
TUBE ASY - BRAKE BOO - F5RZ-2420-AE $17.51
CONNECTOR-BRAKE BOOS - F5RZ-2A411-A $8.51
alright guys I got it in and she works well
anywho on my first test drive with it running normally I notcied the following..
**The idle is still messed up, like it dips down then up then down then up..
it was like that before and i was hoping cleaning all this might do somthing..btw I changed my IAC 3 months ago
**I drove it aroung untill it was warmed up, then in first gear I got it up to 6k and then shifted to see if she'd do well. It was very smooth, but after it seemed as if I didnt have power. It ran fine but when I'd punch it say in 2nd gear, the rpm's would be going up, but gradually, didnt feel that punch? or is it me cause I havent driven my car in like a week.
**NO gas smell anywhere after my test drive, my pully's seem to be very loud, prolly cause it sat in my garage forever. The car has a complete different sound now, I love it..
but yea any info on problem 2 would be appreciated
Dirty MAF, bad TPS or you got something in the IAC. You took it off for the cleaning right? You did buy the IAC from a Ford dealer too right.
Originally posted by todras:
Dirty MAF, bad TPS or you got something in the IAC. You took it off for the cleaning right? You did buy the IAC from a Ford dealer too right.
new IAC from Bill J..took it off before cleaning BUT some cleaner got in the IAC..we cleaned it out to our best..
I dont get the loss of power however that I was feeling?
Reset the computer, just for Shlits & Giggles, if you haven't already. If that doesn't help, it's probably the piece of shop cloth that tore off and fell into your heads. Nothing to worry about.
Mark
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by todras:
Dirty MAF, bad TPS or you got something in the IAC. You took it off for the cleaning right? You did buy the IAC from a Ford dealer too right.
new IAC from Bill J..took it off before cleaning BUT some cleaner got in the IAC..we cleaned it out to our best..
I dont get the loss of power however that I was feeling?
Check your IMRC...and how you routed the cable. I've seen people route the cable too close to the water pump pulley...and (insert chain saw sound here)...ba'bye
Check the IMRC cable as well where it connects to the LIM. Sounds like your seconderies aren't opening up to me...
I reset the computer before I went out on my drive..it seems like it is the secondaries, I have low end power, but after 3K I have nothing..idle is really really bad now, it now stalls after going up and down!
anywho I snapped these shots but observe the IMRC cable, its going under the fuel rail, is that bad, is it suppose to be above?
in the pictures it seems as if the IMRC cables are are hitting the water pump pulley, they actually arent, theres enough clearence, just enough
sorry for the messy engine bay, thats the last thing on my mind
what you think?
Looks like its pulled pretty tight at the fuel rail there, maybe its binding?
I still have my old IAC which really didnt look that bad. You think changing to my old IAC would do me good? I also checked the IMRC cable under the fuel line, didnt seem it was under all that pressure, seemed to be just fine..Im running outa options, why arent my secondaries working! or are they and im just not feeling a thing! ahh i hate this! i need to get my shilt together
while having my TB off, I dont think I took off the sensor attached to it..umm is that bad?
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
I still have my old IAC which really didnt look that bad. You think changing to my old IAC would do me good? I also checked the IMRC cable under the fuel line, didnt seem it was under all that pressure, seemed to be just fine..Im running outa options, why arent my secondaries working! or are they and im just not feeling a thing! ahh i hate this! i need to get my shilt together
while having my TB off, I dont think I took off the sensor attached to it..umm is that bad?
...you guys got that cleaner all over your uim didnt you???? that doesnt come off,now you have to have that thing repowder coated 
....turn the car on,and push on the linkage,look for the secondaries to open and close..could be stuck open/closed...plastic clip for the front bank could've broke too....if its stuck open it'll cause a rough idle
Originally posted by tour96se:
...you guys got that cleaner all over your uim didnt you???? that doesnt come off,now you have to have that thing repowder coated .
Chris has a point, it ate some of the powder coating off my UIM and it now looks like crap. 
looks like your wires are sitting on top of your sec. linkage
I'd check your TPS. That messed up my idle without throwing a code.
guys you think an old fuel filter might be the problem to bad idle? just a thought
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
guys you think an old fuel filter might be the problem to bad idle? just a thought
Yes.
alright, I checked the secondaries and they are opening..thankfully..however I dont know why but the car feels slow in first gear? the rev's go up fast as they are suppose to but still it feels slow..my intake is freakin loud as hell now!! its a CAI and is suppose to be mellow but its sounding a lot like my old ru-3530..hmm..anywho what else can I check for?
Originally posted by tour96se:
...you guys got that cleaner all over your uim didnt you???? that doesnt come off,now you have to have that thing repowder coated .
Any particular reason that engine paint wouldn't work? 
ok I just went out for another drive this time a little further down..I noticed no high end power, but the secondaries are opening..weird..and also while cruising at like 45mph in 5th gear, the car is jittering, its not smooth, usually 5th is my smooth gear..it was jittering an awfull lot untill i decided to turn back and head home before somthin else..on the way back I pushed first gear to 6K and my speedometer read 30mph, thats not right, way to slow..wtf is goin on!?!? I changed my IAC and ordered a new TPS to fix the idle up..IAC didnt do it so hopefully the TPS would and cleaning out my MAF..but that power thing, pissin me off now!!!
Bro,
I'll be the one to say it. You're gonna have to pull your UIM and make sure that both sides of the LIM are opening. Perhaps one of the little clips broke, and only one side is operational. Plus that way you can do a better inspection to make sure everything is tight, where its supposed to be, etc...
The only time I had my vehicle pull to 6000rpm and not have power was when my IMRC failed. You need to rule out the big basic items before you start playing around with smaller items (TPS, etc...)
Originally posted by Mod-Deth:
Bro,
I'll be the one to say it. You're gonna have to pull your UIM and make sure that both sides of the LIM are opening. Perhaps one of the little clips broke, and only one side is operational. Plus that way you can do a better inspection to make sure everything is tight, where its supposed to be, etc...
The only time I had my vehicle pull to 6000rpm and not have power was when my IMRC failed. You need to rule out the big basic items before you start playing around with smaller items (TPS, etc...)
oh man that was my last resort..today i cleaned the MAF, changed the TPS..im running outa options now 
Originally posted by Mod-Deth:
Bro,
UIM and make sure that both sides of the LIM are opening. Perhaps one of the little clips broke, and only one side is operational. Plus that way you can do a better inspection to make sure everything is tight, where its supposed to be, etc...
What little clips? Are you talking about the IMRC grommets?
Those have been replaced with brand new ones. They aren't loose like the old ones.
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
oh man that was my last resort..today i cleaned the MAF, changed the TPS..im running outa options now
Let me guess....you still didn't change the fuel filter? 
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
oh man that was my last resort..today i cleaned the MAF, changed the TPS..im running outa options now
Let me guess....you still didn't change the fuel filter?
no not yet..i'll do that tommorow when my garage is dry
well i think i may know what the major problem is..in the begining you know how I said that my headers were lit glowing red cause of all the heat, which was the result of the wire sequence being messed up. I think during that 10min testdrive where all this happened, I may of clogged my cat which had caused the headers to glow red. As a result I have no power because the car cant have a proper flow back. Another thing I also noticed was that while idling I cant hear the exaust in the back, like Id be standing behind and it sound like a lexus, cant hear anything, maybe my cat is preventing flow? what you guys think? and is there a test I can to really see this is the problem? cause my car does smell like rotten eggs all the time before too
remove your downstream o2s.. see if it clears up... this eliminates the main cat.
if not, replace and remove the upstreams to elim. the precats.
Drop the the catback along with the cat, unless it's built into the y-pipe. Then you could drop the y-pipe.
Mark
I think glowing headers are a pretty clear indicator. Mixed up plug wires shouldn't cause them to glow. I don't think the firing order would create enough exra heat to do that. Sounds like the main cat is a pretty good start. Time to upgrade to a hi-flow cat.
Originally posted by todras:
Sounds like the main cat is a pretty good start. Time to upgrade to a hi-flow cat.
I have to make sure because if it is..trubendz y-pipe with cat, here I come
another not upon installing my fuel filter, I started the car to see if there were any leaks. I noticed over at my cat that the joint where the y-pipe meets the cat, there was smoke comming outa there..i guess thats not a good sign now is it?
also my CEL just came on but i have no means of checking it because I cant drive my car to auto zone
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
another not upon installing my fuel filter, I started the car to see if there were any leaks. I noticed over at my cat that the joint where the y-pipe meets the cat, there was smoke comming outa there..i guess thats not a good sign now is it?
also my CEL just came on but i have no means of checking it because I cant drive my car to auto zone
Finally a freakin' CEL. I knew there was something waiting to pop up. The car can not run like that CEL free.
I'm not sure what you mean about where the smoke is coming from. Are you talking about the flange at the end of the y-pipe? If so, you probably just need a new donut gasket.
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
another not upon installing my fuel filter, I started the car to see if there were any leaks. I noticed over at my cat that the joint where the y-pipe meets the cat, there was smoke comming outa there..i guess thats not a good sign now is it?
also my CEL just came on but i have no means of checking it because I cant drive my car to auto zone
Finally a freakin' CEL. I knew there was something waiting to pop up. The car can not run like that CEL free.
I'm not sure what you mean about where the smoke is coming from. Are you talking about the flange at the end of the y-pipe? If so, you probably just need a new donut gasket.
yea i know huh..it is at the end of the y-pipe flange..wtf is a donut gasket?
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
Originally posted by CSVT1214:
Originally posted by Goonz SVT:
another not upon installing my fuel filter, I started the car to see if there were any leaks. I noticed over at my cat that the joint where the y-pipe meets the cat, there was smoke comming outa there..i guess thats not a good sign now is it?
also my CEL just came on but i have no means of checking it because I cant drive my car to auto zone
Finally a freakin' CEL. I knew there was something waiting to pop up. The car can not run like that CEL free.
I'm not sure what you mean about where the smoke is coming from. Are you talking about the flange at the end of the y-pipe? If so, you probably just need a new donut gasket.
yea i know huh..it is at the end of the y-pipe flange..wtf is a donut gasket?
It's a "ceramic type" of gasket shaped like a dount that goes between the 2 pipes where they join. When they are old they can just fall apart in your hand. Mine did.
Guys is there anyway I can clean my pre-cats once I have the y-pipe off. Im planning on taking off my y-pipe and cat this weekend to inspect the damage. I figured once I have that stuff off if theres anyway I can get as much crud off of the pre-cats as I could, hopefully I'll feel a noticable difference..
Sure there is, gut the mofo's
undo the cat-back, see if it's the main cat first. I had a "high flow" dynomax bullet cat go bad on me within 100 miles of it's install and my whole exhaust system was glowing red! I gutted the POS and everything was back to normal.
If it's not the main cat, it's the precats. Either gut them after removing them from the car first (I have a set already gutted and in high temp primer that are waiting for someone to pick a color of high temp paint, and a new home
MIL eliminators too) or get your mits on some MSDS or Weapon R's if you still can.
This is the best reason to add high performance mods
FYI, My 2.5L ran like crap after it's UIM/LIM/TB cleaning for a few miles. But, it cleared right up and ran great.