Head scratching problem 96 Contour

Yeah i was gonna say wasnt the VCT for 98 and up

. Has a new water pump, on it now, soon to have a new battery, just waiting for the head kit to come in. Gonna put the head on torque it down and do a compression test to see if head is leaking. If its leaking then I know its a bunk head and needs to be replaced with a new one. Worst case scenario anyone know of anyone selling a 2.0 zetec head in good shape? I havent found a reasonable one yet so far a few but one wants 800 bucks for it and thats new, another place wants 189 and I think thats a bare head, may be the way to go, but not sure. Looking at different option, pistons look really good, oil is in the intake port thou, Im wondering if its a bad pcv causing that. No oil in the exhaust thou or signs of coolant either. Im alittle worried about the bottom end thou. Dont know how long the guy drove it with a bad head gasket/water pump. There was no coolant int he block only water, water wasnt even green tinted.

Looks like the guy kept putting water in it to keep it from over heating. So maybe the bo0ttom end is ok, Im hoping it i. the oil is pretty nasty, not milky in color just like hershey syrup, which im assuming is from getting the engine hot.

We think the bottom end is fine, engine turns over real easy with starter or by hand. Tryin to think of stuff off the top of my head. Wish I could tow it to the shop I work and and throw it in a bay and work on it there, so much easier then on the ground

But the boss is ya know how that goes.found a wire broke, Which i believe is a coolant sensor wire or the temp sensor wire, Oh didnt they have a recall on the 96 contour for bad injector harness? If so Im gonna see if this car had it done if not gonna get that fixed may be part of the problem, didnt test the injectors to see if they are pulsing. Ill keep you all updated on what is going on with the contour and hopefully when the head goes on itll hold compression, then ill know the head is ok, be a sigh of relief on that part, then its putting the motor back together and seeing if everything was put back right.

well tonite is D day to see if she will fire up, have to replace the pcv, throw the spark plugs in, wires, make sure the friggin timing belt is on right. about hour worth of work, new gaskets all the way around on the upper end. Just hope the guy didnt heat it up enought to where the bottom end is knockin to come out, ill post results later tonite

Any luck?

ok everything is on except the upper mount and a few brackets, why put the mount on if timing is off. Anyways drained the oil, and this is no exageration, but oil filter was like a lead weight alittle coolant came out, no oil, undid the oil pan plug and coolant came out , and then it was like hot fudge coming out of the oil pan. SO drain the pan, put in a quart of lucas oil, and 3.75 quarts of oil, turn it over to prime the motor. Rechecked everything, Getting spark, fuel pump is turning on as well you can hear the relays click, compression is good, check engine light does go off when the engine cranks, so the crank and cam sensor are working, new water pump, new timing belt, new gaskets for the upper end of the engine. Plan is once motor is running get it operating temperature to lossen up the crap in the motor and drain and put fresh stuff in. But the car still wont start. The firing order, I found is
1-4-3-2 Got that off of about.com, and autozone repair area. On the coil its still original, and thats marked for the cylinders, so we know the wires are correct. Now here is the question I have on the crank pulley there is 2 notches. the notch closest to the holes on the pulley is the correct one to line up to on timing correct? Or is it the second notch? The diagrams we saw shows closest to the holes in the balancer. Lining up to the bottom edgee of the pointer on the block. Making sure cylinder one is TDC. Which it is based on the notch closest to the 3 holes in the balncer/pulley. We cranked the engine over , still refuses to start. Getting fuel to the plugs because we took out the plug 1 and 3 and they were both wet with fuel. Not enough fuel pressure? Bad gas? I do not know how long the car has been sitting i failed to ask that but it is a full tank in the car. But my hunch is since I havent grabbed the fuel pressure tester yet, if pump is turning on and plugs are getting fuel, and there is spark. Fuel system is fine. But who knows, i mean look where the pcv valve is on these motors

. So it leads me to believe its possible the timing isnt correct. Using the wrong notch on the balancer is my guess. I just hope the pickup isnt clogged on the oil pump cause of that sludge i saw coming out of the motor.

. So Im kind of clueless now to as why its not firing but I am leaning towards timing is off. But I really dont think it is but, one never knows since these motors are super sensitive to timing. When they run good, they run great, when they are under the weather, well you all know how the Zetec's get. Am i over looking the obvious? As the journey continues to solve this bizarre mystery. OH before I forget, There is a sense by the pcvb valve that goes into the tranny, I do not kn ow what sensor it is or whats its purpose but that connector to that sensor is destroyed. Anyone know what that sensor is? I was thinking something to do with Traction control if the car has it, havent looked yet. Maybe one of you can shed some light on it. I know I need to replace the connector going to the coolant sensor, wires are frayed by the connector and that one going to a non removable sensor going to the trans. Just like to hear the car fire so I can determine if I have to put new bearings in the bottom end. Thanks for your time

Quote:

Making sure cylinder one is TDC.

My guess is still that valve timing is off.

The big three need to be in order for an engine to start.

1) Start by checking the spark. Remove a spark plug, reconnect a wire to it and ground it. Have somebody crank the engine while you look to see if it is sparking.

Got Spark?

2) Fuel. You've already checked this one. You've said that there is a gas smell while cranking. We can safely assume you are getting gas.

Got Fuel?

3) Compression. Do you have a compression tester? Check the compression by removing all of the plugs. Crank the engine and look for compression at each cylinder. If you are low on some/all cylinders, I'd suspect crank to valve timing is off. (especially when you reported backfiring).

Got compression?

Even if the rings are worn to an extreme, the engine will still fire and run, albeit with a lot of smoke rolling off the exhaust.

Just make very sure that the cam and crank are properly phased. I have the '97 Ford Automobile CD and am in the process of looking up the valve timing setting procedures. Stay tuned....

The CD section on Contour Zetec says;

...
19. Turn the engine to top dead center.
20. Using Camshaft Alignment Tool T94P-6256-CH and Camshaft Sprocket Holding Tool T74P-6256-B, align the camshafts by installing tool into slots on rear of camshafts.

Installation:

1. Loosely install timing belt tensioner, bolt, and belt. Adjust belt tension. Tighten bolts to 35-40 N-m (26-30 lb-ft).
...

Picture of plug wire routing...

yes got lots of spark, getting fuel, Im gonna do the TDC the old fashion way put a screw driver in the spark plug hole and do it that way, i used a alignment tool, even had to loosen the cam sprockets to make sure timing belt was tight putting it on counter clockwise. Ill have to agree with you I think the timing is off as well but did you find out anything on the 2 knotches on the balancer? Just curious to know. Yes I have a compression checker. but anyways I know it has to be lined up with the tab on the block but is it the second one or first one, one book says, first the other shows close to the holes. We had the cams aligned so I know those are right I think maybe TDC isnt fully TDC so I guess a screwdriver resting in the spark plug will show me best TDC versus the timing notch on the balancer and block. But number one cylinder is passenger side correct becuz based on the picture you show its the driver side which is number one. Maybe im just getting aggravated and just throwing wrenches at it instead of stepping back and evaluating the scenario

yes based on the picture number one is drivers side.. well if thats correct then I know exactly what the problem is.

firing order..... ya know its the most obvious thing you always over look if this is what i see based on the picture.

Quote:

But number one cylinder is passenger side correct becuz based on the picture you show its the driver side which is number one.

The picture above is misleading with respect to the numbering scenario. The circled #1 indicated "ignition wires" in general. I don't believe it had anything to do with which plug/cylinder is #1. The purpose of putting that picture up was to give you an idea about how to connect the wires to the coil as there may have been some concern on which wire went to which plug. I'll have to look at that CD again and find out which is which number wise, but I'd guess #1 would be nearest to the "front" of the engine.

Originally posted by sysanalyst:

Quote:

The purpose of putting that picture up was to give you an idea about how to connect the wires to the coil as there may have been some concern on which wire went to which plug.

I know how to connect the wires to the coil I work on cars for a living . But anyways What I need to know is Firing order is 1-4-3-2 or 1-3-4-2

which is Correct?

If that is firing order next question is looking at the motor from the front of the car is it 1-2-3-4 or 4-3-2-1

Problem Ive seen to many contradictory things in books and sites. One says this is the way shows the coil numbered one way, then ill see another one and the coil is numbered another way. OK

Next thing I need to know is Look at this picture.

Based on this picture it is notch closest to the holes in the pulley is this correct?

If so then the motor is timed like it should be. Cams were aligned, and I used tire crayon to highlight the notch and the key on the side of the block. The timing belt was put on backwards and we lossened the cam sprokets to get any play out of the belt from crank to exhaust cam, exhaust cam to intake cam. No play there what so ever. Well lets start with this and see if I have something backwards or not done properly.

Note that Chilton on demand has the spark plug wiring order incorrect for the Zetec (per this thread).

http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=trouble&Number=1039060&fpart=1&PHPSESSID=

yes check all sensors. if a sensor is bad like the cam sensor. the engine will crank but will never start.

Originally posted by Halogram:

Originally posted by sysanalyst:

Quote:

The purpose of putting that picture up was to give you an idea about how to connect the wires to the coil as there may have been some concern on which wire went to which plug.

I know how to connect the wires to the coil I work on cars for a living . But anyways What I need to know is Firing order is 1-4-3-2 or 1-3-4-2

which is Correct?

If that is firing order next question is looking at the motor from the front of the car is it 1-2-3-4 or 4-3-2-1

Problem Ive seen to many contradictory things in books and sites. One says this is the way shows the coil numbered one way, then ill see another one and the coil is numbered another way. OK

Next thing I need to know is Look at this picture.

Based on this picture it is notch closest to the holes in the pulley is this correct?

If so then the motor is timed like it should be. Cams were aligned, and I used tire crayon to highlight the notch and the key on the side of the block. The timing belt was put on backwards and we lossened the cam sprokets to get any play out of the belt from crank to exhaust cam, exhaust cam to intake cam. No play there what so ever. Well lets start with this and see if I have something backwards or not done properly.

I was not trying to impugn your intelligence, and if that is what happened, I truly apologize. Heck, I'm a computer analyst with a Contour, only work on them now and again, definitely not an auto repair professional. Just trying to display which wire goes to which plug - hardware is sort of challenging to us softwre people - didn't know your background.

I've looked at our '98 SE Zetec and it looks like it is wired as in the picture, meaning each wire from the coil goes to the plug as pictured on that "confusing" diagram with the #1 pointing a what should be #4 cylinder.

As far as the crank pulley marks, darn, even the factory manual indicates the "big" notch is there as a reference to keep all pistons off of TDC. I'd take that to mean that the big mark means next to nothing, although very confusing.

All told, I'd do the dial indicator method of finding TDC, lock the crank, align the cams, put on the belt (there was a n 8 step procedure for adjusting it on the CDROM) and run a compression test before buttoning her up.

Here is a silly idea;

Hook up a timing light to what is believed to be #1 plug, have somebody turn over the engine. Shine the light against the crank pulley and find out if either notch is TDC for once and for all. Also, if possible, point the light down #1 plug hole to make sure the spark is occuring when the piston is near the top of the bore (and that no valves are open on that cylinder either).

Know it must be horribly frustrating trying to figure this one out when even the factory manuals don't do a good job of displaying repair details.

Let me know if any pictures from under the hood of a '98 Contour 2.0 zetec would be of help? Perhaps a picture of the coil top with the numbers on it and which plugs the wires go to.

Good luck.

My 2.0 went crazy when the battery went south as well.
This sounds like timing to me. The first time I changed my belt, the intake side was 1 cog off. The car ran brutal!
While you have the head off, insure it isn't warped. Bad water pump causes aluminum to away fast.
PCM relay?

Cylinder 1 is passenger side by the timing cover. Valves should be closed, cam lobes not pushing down on valves. My 1995 Ford binder says TDC and lock cams with tool, the notches are not discussed at all...

Originally posted by FavoriteMystaque:
Cylinder 1 is passenger side by the timing cover. Valves should be closed, cam lobes not pushing down on valves. My 1995 Ford binder says TDC and lock cams with tool, the notches are not discussed at all...

The notches are discussed on the installation instructions. They instruct to turn the crank to the "big notch" in order to make sure all pistons are down when installing the cylinder head (since some of the valves may be in an open condition depending upon camshaft position). This would lead me to believe that the notches cannot be trusted to indicate much of anything.

ok here is something we noticd on the car which may be the litle problem as to why the car wont fire.

this is the sensor im talking about see it to the right of the cat, is that the crank position sensor? cause pretty much right by it is the pcv valve, if it is that connector is fubar beyond repair, all brittle and mangled up. Does ford sell a replacement connector for this? Ok and there is a sensor that goes to the top of the water neck housing. One below and one above. the below one is the temperature gauge whats the one above it in the housing itself, those wires are fubar as well, not touching one another but bare wire is showing on that one. So basicaly what your saying is to look down spark plug #1 hole and TDC it from there then, take the alignment tool align the cams and try that. Ok luckily its a non-interference motor. Also even if the head was warped it should still fire. According to the person i bought it from the car was running with coolant and what not in the oil and then just quit running, so that tells me MAYBE that one or the other meaning crank sensor or cam sensor is screwed up, but wouldnt the check engine light stay on while cranking if no signal is found from those?

friday im gonna check the cam and crank sensor anyone know what ohms/resistance they are suppose to be at?

That's looking like the crank position sensor plug in the photo. I looked up the powertrain diagnostics from Ford, they tell you how to test everything scientifically (with an oscilloscope) except the resistance of the sensors!

Measure both, they should be close in resistance. If one is open circuit,or dead short, bad. Maybe someone has some laying around they can test? Maybe just connect everything and try it next.

I think you found your culprit. The item you have pictured that is on the block and just behind the flywheel is indeed the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor). It is very difficult to remove as I was going to replace mine (as a maint. item) but was unable to remove it. I couldn't imagine the engine running without it as it is the "distributor pickup" in effect and provides the signal for the engine spark timing. If it were me and I found the connector to be in unservicable shape, I'd clip one off a donor vehicle in a "heap yard" and splice it on in.

Is your Zetec running today?

ok been awhile car was put aside for a few months due to money flow. Anyways, got the car running, new, plugs, wires, IAC, MAF, fuel filter, upper gaskets, air filter, pcv (what a pain). Now the car ran good when we first fired it up cold, no missing nothing. Got warm, and started chattering, and misfiring/rough idle. We thought IAC, so we changed the IAC. Now its complete oppisite, hard start when cold, and idles when warmed up, but idle is very rough like its starving. Now we hit the fuel shrader valve since we didnt get ahold of a fuel pressure tester yet, and hardly any fuel comes out of the valve. Is that normal, or should we go ahead and pressure check it. Sounds like a possible fuel pump problem with lack of proper pressure. Maybe it could be a possible semi clogged cat, but we drove the car and wasnt up to par on power but wasnt lacking it. Car is makin us

You should have around 35-40 PSI at the fuel rail. If it just dribbled out, you don't have much pressure.

Do the pressure check.

Steve

Replaced fuel pump, car fired up running nice and smooth, 15seconds into startup it died, started it back up, ran 15 more seconds and then dies. The new IAC we put on makin a weird noise, so we put back the old one. wont even fire off old one, Defective new IAC???, Bad TPS? Dont make sense, getting fuel, geting spark, new IAC, new MAF, new gaskets on the upper end, new water pump, new fuel filter, new pcv, quadruple checked the vacuum lines, thinkin maybe we bumped one off, new plugs, new wires, , running out of things to replace here, LOL. Getting the essentials for it to run, but we think IAC may be problem. Any other things to look at? We may be over looking? SUggestons would be apprieciated. Thanks in advance. Ill say this once again, never had a car give me this much problems lol.

Bump

Originally posted by Halogram:
Replaced fuel pump, car fired up running nice and smooth, 15seconds into startup it died, started it back up, ran 15 more seconds and then dies. The new IAC we put on makin a weird noise, so we put back the old one. wont even fire off old one, Defective new IAC???, Bad TPS? Dont make sense, getting fuel, geting spark, new IAC, new MAF, new gaskets on the upper end, new water pump, new fuel filter, new pcv, quadruple checked the vacuum lines, thinkin maybe we bumped one off, new plugs, new wires, , running out of things to replace here, LOL. Getting the essentials for it to run, but we think IAC may be problem. Any other things to look at? We may be over looking? SUggestons would be apprieciated. Thanks in advance. Ill say this once again, never had a car give me this much problems lol.

The IAC is for idle only with foot off the pedal. Some Zetecs were equipped with a idle air bypass valve also.

When the engine is started it is running open loop. Depending on ECT data and warmup time of the heated O2 sensors, the engine will go closed loop. I would appear that this is when it dies.

To keep from replacing everything on the engine, I suggest attaching a recording scanner and starting the engine with your foot down some on the gas. The sensor data should reflect the problem at 15 seconds.

well the problem is , fuel pump was replaced, car fired right up without gas pedal assitance. ran great for 15 seconds or so, then died, figured ok restart it and give it light throttle to keep it running, seemed to make it worse. Pressure on the gas peddle made it stutter then die. No CEL at all during this stuff, either. From the first time it fired, to now, it hasnt throw a CEL at us, and its starting to annoy us. We got another IAC and havent put it on yet, the old IAC is still on the car. We figured the car has 140k on it, just replace all visible vacuum lines, rubber ones, since that is very inexpensive and see what that does.It doesnt add up, First time car s together, firesd up runs as smooth as can be, then it got to operating temperature, drove it around the block 2 times, idle went bad, rough idle, clattering noise, would stall occassionally. Then we narrowed it down to IAC since it has almost every sensor replaced on the engine, new IAC on, wouldnt idle anymore, would run when you put the throttle down alittle bit. But far as idling it wouldnt, so we turned to the fuel pump, we were right there, was getting crap for pressure. Replaced it, car fired up without pedal assistance, and ran for 15 seconds or so, and just died, started it up again, this time put slight pressure on gas pedal to keep it from dying, didnt work. Sounds like to us its a vacuum leak or hate to say it, cracked head????? Didnt decide to show its ugly face till the engine got to operating temp. Dont know but Ive not read alot of problems with these heads cracking or am I just that blind? lol Thats where the car sits now, Cranks, starts but wont idle nor can you give it gas to keep it running. ANy other suggestions, besides putting it in the pasture and shooting it. Im out of ideas.

Is the oil level where it should be? Worth a look if you haven't checked it. Did you align the IAC when reinstalling it? Also, maybe the alternator isn't charging up, try charging the battery fully with a charger, so the battery has capacity to run the car a while, and check the voltage at the battery terminals is above 14 volts.