I have searched, and I have seen cooling system problems, but I havn't seen this issue. Perhaps I looked for the wrong keywords, if that's the case, my apologies.
My girl has a 97 Ford Contour. When the car warms up, it runs between the "L" and the "bracket" on the temp gauge.
Sometimes, depending where she is going, it gets a tad bit higher.
To me, this seems a problem, even though it is in the "normal" status.
I do not believe it's the thermostat. It warms up normally, and the top coolant hose gets warm.
i was thinking, perhaps a bad radiator cap. Maybe it's not building enough preasure to kick the fan on at the proper time??
Btw, the cap on this car, is the cap just the resavoir cap?
I was told that a similar thing happend to another Contour, and that it was either 2, or 1 of the 2 sensors.
1. Coolant Temp Sensor
2. Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECT)
The Haynes manual states that you have to unbolt something where the top hoses near the oil fill hole is at. The big hose, not sure of it's name.
The only thing I see, is a few bolts that look like the whole unit unbolts.
Is that correct, or am I missing a sensor?
Anyways, has this happend to anyone, and do you know the fix?
If so, what part, and any help/guidance will be appreciated.
I think the specs for the radiator cap is 18 lbs, so I may get the cap pressure tested.
Thanks alot!
Jeremy
Originally posted by Marky:
I4, or V6?
Oh, I'm sorry I forgot to mention that.
4 banger, 2.slow DOHC
My '95 ZETEC ran hot too, what coolant mix are you using, changed it recently?
Originally posted by Marky:
My '95 ZETEC ran hot too, what coolant mix are you using, changed it recently?
Just standard 50/50. Prestone I believe.
It was flushed 2 years ago.
Is the cap on the resavoir the radiator cap in general?
Also, where is this damn thermastat? There are to be 2 sensors near it, but I don't know where it's at. 
Unless Ford did something different with the Zetec, the cap is only for the reservoir. It is pressurized, but there is no cap on the actual radiator. Do the fans kick in when you turn the AC on? I haven't had any cooling issues with the 'Tour, but my mother's Taurus has quite a few. The main culprit was the plastic reservoir tank was leaking slowly. That was a pain to figure out. It still loses coolant, but no problems. We have given up..
In your case, the coolant level is good? I would suggest flushing it out.
Coolant level is fine, right where it has been for the past 4-5 months.
The resavoir cap does have a gasket inside, so I guess it is the only cap for the coolant system.
Yes, the fan does come on when the ac is on.
Pull out the thermostat and try a new one. Also, it could be that the guage is just off. Try using a thermometer to get the engine temp. I'd suggest getting another Zetec to compare to. Maybe let them both idle for the same amount of time, then put the thermometer on the valve cover, or soemthing.
Originally posted by 95UndersteerSleeper:
Pull out the thermostat and try a new one. Also, it could be that the guage is just off. Try using a thermometer to get the engine temp. I'd suggest getting another Zetec to compare to. Maybe let them both idle for the same amount of time, then put the thermometer on the valve cover, or soemthing.
For one, I dont' even know where the thermostat is at.
2, it was doing it before and the thermostat was replaced, and still never corrected the reading shown in the cluster.
So it was doing it, and still doing it after a new thermostat.
As I stated, the heat works fine, and the top hose gets warm. If you squeeze the hose you can feel fluid rushing through once you release it.
From doing the above, it lead me to believe that the thermostat wasn't at fault. It's opening and closing as it should.
Ok, I was skimming. Try checking the temperature. It sounds like the car is fine to me. My guess it the guage is just off.
Originally posted by 95UndersteerSleeper:
Ok, I was skimming. Try checking the temperature. It sounds like the car is fine to me. My guess it the guage is just off.
It could be, but even if so, I'd like to get that corrected. For peace of mind, not to mention if we ever have to sell it, they will be fishy on seeing it sitting in almost red. lol
Well, see if you can confirm it is the guage. If it is, then pull the needle off and put it back on where it should be! It could be the coolant temp sensor, I guess, but that would give you fan issues.
The temperature sender can also affect the gauge. The sender is a totally different unit from the sensor. The sensor affects the fan, but the sender only affects the gauge. My sender died a few months ago (the gauge totally stopped working) and I installed a new sender. The gauge works now, but it reads quite a bit more than it used to read with the old sender. Now, it commonly stays on the L, whereas before with the original sender it read about R-M. I suppose the calibration on those must leave something to be desired.
Well, the local radiator shop said this cap can not be preasure tested.
However, I checked the temperature w/ a thermometer, and it was 185, and the reading was a little past "L".
Is 185 normal? What would cause the bum reading??
There is a sensor above the thermostat, and it has 2 wires. Is that the coolant temp sensor? Should I replace it??
185 is not too bad..
the SENSOR would control the fans coming on, etc.
as long as your fans are kicking on, etc, then the sensor would be fine.
the SENDER controls what the GUAGE says, and has nothing to do with the temp, if its bad...
ray
Originally posted by Ray:
185 is not too bad..
the SENSOR would control the fans coming on, etc.
as long as your fans are kicking on, etc, then the sensor would be fine.
the SENDER controls what the GUAGE says, and has nothing to do with the temp, if its bad...
ray
Ray, so in all reality since my fans do kick on, and the temp reading is where it's at, and the gauge is still reading hella high...it should be the sender?
The sender should be near the thermostat, and is the sensor w/ only one wire leaving it.
Correct? Replace this sensor??
Thanks!!
I, honestly, don't know where it is located on the zetec..
Though, the SENSOR is located on the driver's side of the engine, nestled right about where the hood prop rod is secured.
bentleywarren just stated that he replaced his sender, perhaps he'll mention where it was..
Ray
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
The temperature sender can also affect the gauge. The sender is a totally different unit from the sensor. The sensor affects the fan, but the sender only affects the gauge. My sender died a few months ago (the gauge totally stopped working) and I installed a new sender. The gauge works now, but it reads quite a bit more than it used to read with the old sender. Now, it commonly stays on the L, whereas before with the original sender it read about R-M. I suppose the calibration on those must leave something to be desired.
Where about is this sender, and it does only have 1 wire right? Is it easy to get to, any tips??
The sender and the sensor are both very close together. If I recall correctly, one angles downward, and one points forward (or maybe it's upward). I have replaced both of them in the last few months, and right now I can't remember which is which. If I am recalling correctly, the sender is the one that angles downward. I'll go out to the car in a few minutes, and look and see the number of wires going to each.
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
The sender and the sensor are both very close together. If I recall correctly, one angles downward, and one points forward (or maybe it's upward). I have replaced both of them in the last few months, and right now I can't remember which is which. If I am recalling correctly, the sender is the one that angles downward. I'll go out to the car in a few minutes, and look and see the number of wires going to each.
Well, the top sensor on top of the thermostat has 2 wires. I'm 99.9% sure that's the sensor.
The sender must be below that some where, I'll have to look around.
I guess you will loose coolant when it's removed, I'll have to plug it up real quick I guess.
Okay, I just checked. Both the sender and the sensor have two wires. The sensor is on top, with the wires pointing upwards. The sender is down below, almost directly below the sensor, but just slightly forward of the sensor. Look at the radiator hose, that goes from the engine to the top of the radiator. Look at the place where that radiator hose connects to the engine. The sender is directly underneath that hose. The sender protrudes forward and downward, at about a 45 degree angle.
I'm sure you'll lose some coolant, although I don't recall losing an excessive amount
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
Okay, I just checked. Both the sender and the sensor have two wires. The sensor is on top, with the wires pointing upwards. The sender is down below, almost directly below the sensor, but just slightly forward of the sensor. Look at the radiator hose, that goes from the engine to the top of the radiator. Look at the place where that radiator hose connects to the engine. The sender is directly underneath that hose. The sender protrudes forward and downward, at about a 45 degree angle.
I'm sure you'll lose some coolant, although I don't recall losing an excessive amount
Oh, so is it fairly easy to access?
Thanks alot. 
one thing you might want to check is too see if that big plastic peice that covers the underneath of the rad and part of the engine at the front of the car is on or not. I flushed my rad a month ago and never put back that shroud and well wouldnt ya know the temp went up about a letter or so on the gauge! Im due for an oil change in the next couple days, probably will have time fridaay, so the shroud is going back on, I bet ya any money it goes down.
that lower shield creates a low pressure zone above itself, and draws air across the radiator.
Ray