Has anyone with an SVT ever had the problem with your wheels being stuck on. I'll tell you what, I tried taking them off in order to paint the calipars and they were literally welded on. I tried force, vibrations... I tried it all, they arent coming off!!
Throw some PB Blaster on there. Pick it up at ur local parts store. If you're lazy, use WD-40. Just let it sit for a while, then give it another whack. I HIGHLY doubt your wheels are literally welded on, just probably slightly rusted/tight as hell.
I tried WD 40 a few times. Still nothing, i'm telling you they are welded on!!...haha
Necessary tool for this task is a 3-4' length of 2x4" then give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside. Clean-up hub and apply anti-sieze compound before re-installing. In really difficult cases, like my Mystique this am, I use a 4x4".
Okay i am going to try that as soon as i get off work today. I'll let everyone know if that works or if my wheels are really welded on.............. ha .. ha ha
aluminum + iron + rotation = electric currents = diffusion = wheels stuck to rotors. as stated above, antiseize compound helps a lot.
if u use wd-40, don't forget to cleean the wheel when you finally take it off
I find it easiest to loosen the lug nuts of the wheel that is stuck, leave the nuts finger tight. Accerlate to 10 MPH or so and hit the brakes hard. Just backing down the driveway 20-30 feet braking hard and one more time coming back usually does the trick.
another very easy way is to use a pry bar between the lower rear shock mount and the rim. that usually works. little bits at a time and rotate the wheel. in the front you can use the ball joint.
Originally posted by horseydug:
Necessary tool for this task is a 3-4' length of 2x4" then give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside. Clean-up hub and apply anti-sieze compound before re-installing. In really difficult cases, like my Mystique this am, I use a 4x4".
And I thought I was the only one.. 
Is there really no other solution than to use anti-seize? I never tried, but how about a very thin piece of plastic or something like that? Anything that could prevent the galvanic corrosion?
start kicking the $hit out if it. Thats what I do when I get mad
When I have had that problem I loosen the lug nuts slightly then then drive aroud the block very carefully. It helps to make some turns.
I will not recommend this though because of the obvious safety concerns.
If the wheels are stuck, you are going to have a real job ahead of you on getting the rotors off.
I use anti-sieze lightly between the rotors and hubs and between the rotors and the wheel to keep this from happining. There is still enough anti-sieze remaining to be effective since the last treatment 50,000 miles and ten tire rotations ago.
Originally posted by Goonz12 (SVT):
start kicking the $hit out if it. Thats what I do when I get mad
That's we all do! From last spring's tire change I have a dead 2x4, a badly wounded 4x4 and a neighbor that had a good laugh!
"Oh yeah I like that car very much, it runs like new!" says the Mystique owner, while hitting his rear wheel like a madman with a almost-destroyed piece of 2x4, splinters flying everywhere... 
Quote:
If the wheels are stuck, you are going to have a real job ahead of you on getting the rotors off.
not in my case. I could actually feel the play in the rotor, w/ the wheel being stuck like no tomorrow. like I mentioned above, corrosion due to currents between different metals.
Well ookay i wen't home after work yesterday and i tried getting those wheels off again. I've tried WD40 and some blaster. Nothing is seeming to work or even budge them!!! I geuss i'm going to have to get some anti seize. All that i want to do is paint my calipars!!!!!! I'll keep updating the tire weld situation.
I use a 3 lb sludge-hammer, short shaft.... best tool I own...
Originally posted by RawBurt:
I geuss i'm going to have to get some anti seize.
Anti-Sieze is to prevent this problem next time. It will not help you remove the wheels now.
There have been some other suggestions that you might want to try.
Good Luck.
Originally posted by alex_96GL:
Quote:
not in my case. I could actually feel the play in the rotor, w/ the wheel being stuck like no tomorrow. like I mentioned above, corrosion due to currents between different metals.
If the wheel is super tight, the rotor wouldn't have play. It could spin but it would be flush and squeezed between the wheel and hub.
Originally posted by bxd20:
If the wheel is super tight, the rotor wouldn't have play. It could spin but it would be flush and squeezed between the wheel and hub.
huh?
think about it: the nuts are off, the wheel is seized to the rotor, but the rotor is not seized to the hub, what is goint to move if you tug the wheel?
I've taken a sledge & tapped around the hub on the front of the wheel, then give the tire & good kick...of course, these were junk steel wheels. Maybe put a block of wood over the center to prevent marring the surface & give it a few good taps w/ a heavy sledge...
Originally posted by horseydug:
Necessary tool for this task is a 3-4' length of 2x4" then give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside. Clean-up hub and apply anti-sieze compound before re-installing. In really difficult cases, like my Mystique this am, I use a 4x4".
As do I.......
I used WD40 and a crow bar.....
Originally posted by horseydug:
give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside.
Just keep whackin'.
Originally posted by R_G:
Originally posted by horseydug:
give the tire a couple of whacks on the inside.
Just keep whackin'.
Sounds kind of personal. 
I work at a tire store and we have this problem all the time. There are a few tricks we use. WD-40 is one of them, although not very often. The first thing we try is a heavy blow from a balled up hand to the tire. Often times this does the trick. If this doesn't work, we use a rubber mallet around the edge of the rim. If that doesn't work, we'll use a dead blow hammer on the backside of the rim. If that doesn't work, we have a 2.5lb sledge with a short handle that we use on the backside of the rim. Not too many wheels will stay stuck when using the sledge. Be careful with this though, as you can damage the rim if you hit it too hard. If by chance the sledge won't take it off, we have a 10 ft. steel pipe that we can usually wedge between the wheel and some part of the car. That will get all but the very toughest wheels off. The very toughest wheels get a combo of WD-40, 10 ft. pipe, and the sledge, all at the same time.
Hopefully some of that will help. Granted, it's a bit easier for us because we have lifts that makes access to the backside of the rim easier.
Also, as was said before, some anti-seize around the hub will help prevent this next time. The anti-seize from Advance AP (and probably other parts stores) that comes in a white bottle with a brown label, about the size of a soda can, seems to work well. It runs about $4 a bottle. It's also worthwhile to put a touch of this in your lug nuts. It will help them to go on, as well as keep them from getting SO tight in the future.
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips Jonathan, these will come handy in a short while...
make sure when you are whacking you leave at least one lug nut on. hate to see you scratch your rim or other car when the rim flies off.
Originally posted by BlackSativa:
It's also worthwhile to put a touch of this in your lug nuts. It will help them to go on, as well as keep them from getting SO tight in the future.Good luck!
Do you mean the portion that contacts the wheel (not the threads)? Putting that on the threads is a bad idea.
Actually, I think that putting antisieze anywhere but on the part of the wheel that contacts the hub is a bad idea.
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Do you mean the portion that contacts the wheel (not the threads)? Putting that on the threads is a bad idea.
Actually, I think that putting antisieze anywhere but on the part of the wheel that contacts the hub is a bad idea.
And why is that? It's not like the lug nuts are going to come off because of it.. I don't see my spark plugs coming off..
Put a jack under to car to support the weight. Take off the lug nuts. VERY carefully, start to lower the car. The weight of the car will break the wheel loose. Jack the car up and pull the wheel off.
Originally posted by Kyo:
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Do you mean the portion that contacts the wheel (not the threads)? Putting that on the threads is a bad idea.
Actually, I think that putting antisieze anywhere but on the part of the wheel that contacts the hub is a bad idea.
And why is that? It's not like the lug nuts are going to come off because of it.. I don't see my spark plugs coming off..
Good Point.
I have certainly had wheels stick to the hubs (even steel wheels), but fortunately I have never yet had a lug nut get frozen to a stud.
Originally posted by JEDsContour:
Good Point.
I have certainly had wheels stick to the hubs (even steel wheels), but fortunately I have never yet had a lug nut get frozen to a stud.
Unless I used anti-seize while changing tires for summer or winter, my wheels are literally soldered to the hubs, whether it's the aluminum wheels or the steelies.
On my '86 Civic Wagovan I had a lug nut that got stuck to its stud. Granted it happened only once, but that day I had to break the stud to be able to change that ?|$/*|&/$ flat tire.. I've used some kind of grease on them since then..
(Can you believe I was thinking "some kind of lubricant on my studs" ? Man I'm glad I didn't write that!) I've been working near the gay district for too long...
I would just like to say that after four long days of hard work and dedication i got the wheels off and painted those calipars red.To finally get these off i jacked up the car loosened all the lugs to about 3 or 4 threads and then literally dropped the car. Sounds kinda bad but it was my last resort and it worked. Thanks for everyone throwing in their two cents.
Originally posted by alex_96GL:
huh?
think about it: the nuts are off, the wheel is seized to the rotor, but the rotor is not seized to the hub, what is goint to move if you tug the wheel?
You're right, I was initially reading it as the wheel being stuck via the studs.