Best rear jack point? - CEG Archives

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So over the past few year I've been jacking the rear right on the y-weld of the exhaust near the back. This was suggested to me by stazi. Well now with my bosal I've spent a good ammount of time with cable ties positioning the system just right amd dont want to mess it up by lifting on it.

My jack wont get to a usual jack point because of the car's height. And when I do go on the exhaust the only place to put the handle of the jack is through the wheel well.

I searched the forum and found a spot and it seems there's a boxed spot on the subframe used as well.

Any advice on a new lift spot is appreciated as I'm tired of lifting the exhaust tips behind the bumper

i use a few peices of wood and lift the car at about the middle of the back door from the side, from under the car you will see a bracket that holds the parking brake cable and right next to that a flat spot just at the front edge of teh rear seat, normally use to jacks and lift both sides at once.

Yeah, but if his car is too low to use the jack points on the sides, then it's DEFINITELY too low to use the side sill w/ wood between the car and the jack.

Either of the tow hooks next to the exhaust pipes. Nothing stronger.

then use some 2x4s and drive the car up on that, my car is lowered on eibachs and now with SVT side skirts this still works to help get the jack under the car ...

Originally posted by BrApple-SeVT:
then use some 2x4s and drive the car up on that, my car is lowered on eibachs and now with SVT side skirts this still works to help get the jack under the car ...

Yeah, that's a good idea.

yeah, quite a few people here drive up onto boards.
It helps a lot.

Originally posted by todras:
Either of the tow hooks next to the exhaust pipes. Nothing stronger.

Mine bent pretty easily with a floor jack and block of wood...

Yea I'll try driving up on wood, I really wanted a less nerve-racking approach. Since everytime on the exhaust it would pop the tips behind the bumprer fairly forcefully and the jack's arm needed to be positioned perfectly so that when lowered the arm clears in the wheel wheel. It sucked raising the thing as the clearance was only like 4" so it took alot of time to pump the thing up to a decent height.
Thanks

Originally posted by Big Daddy Kane:

Originally posted by todras:
Either of the tow hooks next to the exhaust pipes. Nothing stronger.

Mine bent pretty easily with a floor jack and block of wood...

Jack up every Contour I work on there. Never an issue. You sure you know what I'm talking about?

My ass end comes up when I jack from the front... SFC's + RSTB = FTMFW

Originally posted by RawBroken:
My ass end comes up when Steeda walks in the room

Fixed.

Originally posted by RawBroken:
My ass end comes up when I jack from the front... SFC's + RSTB = FTMFW

No, you have it backwards. Front goes down and ass goes up. At least that's how it is for my g/f.

Crap, nevermind. We're talking about Contours.

Both you two fools

Originally posted by The Spelling Nazi:
Yeah, but if his car is too low to use the jack points on the sides, then it's DEFINITELY too low to use the side sill w/ wood between the car and the jack.

so take some wood and roll the car up on it, then jack it from the side like i do

Originally posted by BrApple-SeVT:
then use some 2x4s and drive the car up on that, my car is lowered on eibachs and now with SVT side skirts this still works to help get the jack under the car ...

exactly what i do, a 2x4 piece of cement with a 2x4 of woood on top. just make sure its also still under the wheel when you drop the jack or there might be some crackige.