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marv Offline OP
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Anybody any idea how much difference this will actually make? There's a UK company, expensive (£125+VAT for UIM)
that'll coat it with a compound that has a thermal efficiency of less than 1 watt per metre per kelvin.

Not sure how it compares with the jet hot coating, but
once I get a heatshield knocked up properly, I might send it off & see the difference. They've shown a 150°C between a heated side & external air for 'some' applications.

www.zircotec.com I've asked for a brochure & sample and
can test depending on sample size/material


-------------------------- '99 Mondeo ST24 Nice quiet Milltek cat-back exhaust Noisy K&N 57i Wanted: 3L block and a ST200 / SVT to pull bits from
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not sure if it helps but the long lost company dtec had ceramic coatings on their heatshields


98.5 Black SE ATX S&B filter, SVT MAF, optimized SVT TB, mesh grille, removed orange reflectors, painted rear reflector, gutted pre-cats, optimized SVT LIM, 19lb injectors, resonator removed cant afford an svt but lookin for 1 in nc
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In building my heatsheild, another member found for me a small quanity of cermanic coating at an online hobby store. So you might want to do some Google searches, in your area, with that in mind.



Phillip Jackson `98 Mystique LS 262K+ and counting... ATX rebuilt @ 151K "This storm has broken me, my only friend!" RIP Dime
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We've been coating our Cold Air Intakes, dont see why it wouldnt hurt coating a heat shield.


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Heat shields work a little for convection types of heat from the hot air, or rather to block airflow like around a cold air intake so the incoming air has less contact with hot air, but mainly they are for radiant heat sources.

I'll say it again plainly, heat shields are for radiant heat sources.

Heat shields used to block hot air are just that, air dams and are not really blocking heat out, just airflow.
Coatings are for conductive heat. That is say heat conducted through metal or plastic parts. The problem is that the coating has to be between the heat source and the heat sink.
With the parts connected the way they are in an engine, more heat will be conducted through the bolts and gaskets into your intake manifold than will radiate onto the intake manifold unless as on some engines the intake and exhaust manifolds are co-located. Some old honda engines had the intake and exhaust enter right next to each other and in that case a heat shield was required to stop RADIANT heat.
So what am I saying? You are wasting your money if you are putting specialized coatings on heat sheilds between the upper and lower manifold and on most other heat shield applications.

The only place I could see a practical use of coatings is on the inside of your intake pipes and manifold runners. The barrier would be in place between the medium that you are trying to isolate and the heat source.
If you put it on the outside of your pipes then all you are doing is slowing heat transfer from the convection currents of air, which is a pretty poor heat transfer method when compared with conduction anyway. All that means is that in the case of an engine in an engine compartment, heat will travel through the connections, bolts and clamps so much faster than it ever will through air conduction so you aren't doing jack-sh|t to stop it. The air temp will never be hotter than the actual engine temp since the engine and radiator (via coolant from the engine) are what actually heat the damned air!

In a perfect setup you would have the thermal coating completely coating the inside of your intake air path so that the air touched nothing (or nearly nothing) but your thermal barrier until it entered the combustion chamber. This would reduce the conduction of heat into the air from the hot intake pipe. From there the exhaust piping would have the coating on the inside to retain heat in the exhaust rather than into the piping and then radiate onto components outside.
Now using thermal coatings on the outside of very high heat objects like exhaust components will help reduce radiant heat and convective heat transfer from the exhaust pipes to the surrounding components, so that isn't a complete waste. An uncoated heat shield between the exhaust and items you are trying to protect is a much better method than a coating though since we really want to cool the exhaust piping with airflow and NOT let the radiant heat hit other surrounding components. The coating would slow the cooling of the exhaust pipes to the air around it and is a double edged sword.

However, you are not going to keep any of the intake or exhaust piping from heating up!!!!! The piping will still conduct heat from the combustion chamber to every single part that is bolted, clamped, glued or stuck to the engine. Those parts gain more heat through contact than they ever do through hot air flowing through the engine compartment.

Therefore, any money you spend on coatings for anything besides the INSIDE or your intake, combustion chamber, or inside and out of exhaust pipes is probably a waste of money and will not change the heat levels in the components in a measurable fashion.


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and there you have it


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marv Offline OP
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Cheers warmonger.

Always good to be a little less ignorant than I was 5 mins ago It's all perfectly obvious, after it's been pointed out.

Might just stick with carboard then



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All that really does make sense. I remember when I tested my first working heatsheild, for the intake filter, and found that after a run on the highway, the filter element was cool to the touch. Much cooler than anything else around it. Even after a lot of stop and go driving, I noticed that the filter was only warm and not hot, like it was without the sheild. For the sake of measuring by hand, it felt about the same as it did after highway driving without the sheild. At the time, I was thinking to my self, "This thing really doesn't need a thermal coating on it.".

But! If I did still want to apply a thermal coating to the sheild, it would be best to apply the coating to the inside of the sheid? Interesting. So now that brings back up the subject of painting the outside of the sheild. Using a high temp paint of course. I still sorta have a problem with painting the sheild, because it takes so much abuse when removing and whatnot.


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Originally posted by marv:

Cheers warmonger.

Always good to be a little less ignorant than I was 5 mins ago It's all perfectly obvious, after it's been pointed out.

Might just stick with carboard then






Just trying to help since I get so pissed off when I think of people wasting money on something that will be of little to no use. I would rather see someone use the $100 on a piece of intake pipe and a fender mounted cold air intake filter then the coating. I built the intake for my turbo and I keep both the filter and the maf in the fender as a cold air intake. I spent maybe $75 on the piping, clamps and grey metallic paint so that it would look cool. I have a true 3" (76mm) cold air intake from the fender with a little bit of time to take off the bumper, lengthen the MAF wiring harness and some silicon hose and clamps. Not hard, allows sooo much more unrestricted airflow and looks cool besides.




Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Warmonger.. although i disagree with you on somethings and weve been in slugfests before.. that was bad and I commend thee


Ex-cat cams dealer. Today we do motor mounts.. Tommorow. Intake manifolds
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