Originally posted by caltour:
Meangreen, do you know if I can replace that lower idler pulley without having to reset the timing? My Haynes manual (I know, I know) seems to indicate that I can replace the pulley without removing the belt. It looks like I could just fasten the belt tightly with clamps (so it doesn't slip out of time) and then just replace the idler pully. What do you think?

Like you suggested, I am considering buying the entire timing belt kit. But the kit costs over five times the cost of the one idler pully that's broken ($39 from Signature Lincoln Mercury). The other pullies and the belt have no apparent wear or damage.





It'd be a little bit tricky, but if I were doing it, and wanting to do it easy, I'd get it at TDC #1, with the valve cover off, with the cam alignment tool handy, incase I needed it...I'd lock the belts to the cam pulleys with a couple of plastic spring hand-clamps, as you stated, stuff a rag or something between the crank gear/pulley and the top of the oil pan/oil pump housing...that way your belt should be pretty secure. With everything in time, I'd loosen the tensioner bolt, but don't move it anymore than you have to, if any at all, then remove the lower guide/idler pulley, using the proper Torx bit/socket...you might be able to sneak the new one right back in, but you'll have to reset the tension. With the belt still secured with the clamps at the cam pulleys and at the crank, you might want to install the new spring and spring anchor bolt [dealer items...sounds like you're going to the dealer anyway]...now all you have to do is remove the clamps and set and torque the tensioner.

With a little luck you'll have no problems.

...or you could do as Haynes suggests and sneak the new one in...tension might be pretty close with the new replacement part...just make sure that it's at least as tight, afterwards, as before you started the job.

You could always get a second opinion on the belt tension, afterwards, if you're not sure.

Good luck.