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Originally posted by caltour:
Kremit, how would they re-set the timing w/o the cam sprocket tool? When they take out the old tensioner, the belt will go slack. Won't that throw off the timing?




Unless they love taking the chances of damaging the engine, the cam sprocket tool is a really smart decision...especially for those that cram wrenches or old files in the ends of the cams

They can throw a belt on, but chances are there will be extra play in the belt between the cam gears for those that replace belts w/o touching the cam gears, on that engine.

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Maybe because I've done it myself (timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys). I didn't do the cam gears because I had already done the stuff once myself and yes it is a bit more work if cam gears have to be touched and more tools are needed. But guess what, if cam gears are not being changed (atleast on pre98s), then timing does not change. You lock the cams in at TDC with ANY piece of decent metal (a file WILL work fine) and you have the crank pulley aligned with the notch on the block. It's all pretty easy stuff to do. The only time I've heard of needing any kind of peg was during an engine rebuild. Ooo but what would I know, I've only done it on my own car.


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Originally posted by caltour:
Kremit, how would they re-set the timing w/o the cam sprocket tool? When they take out the old tensioner, the belt will go slack. Won't that throw off the timing?



Lock the cams with a piece of metal first and have crank pulley pointed at its correct notch. When you install the new tensioner correctly, there will be no slack between any gears/pulleys.

It may be best to listen to zetec owners when it comes to doing work to a zetec.


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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Originally posted by caltour:
Kremit, how would they re-set the timing w/o the cam sprocket tool? When they take out the old tensioner, the belt will go slack. Won't that throw off the timing?





Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Lock the cams with a piece of metal





Best to use the proper tool that is designed for the specific job.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
first and have crank pulley pointed at its correct notch.




Best to have the crank pointed and *locked* with the proper tool that was designed to be placed in the access hole that was designed into the Zetec block, allowing the proper tool to do its job.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
When you install the new tensioner correctly, there will be no slack between any gears/pulleys.





If you can't put the real tool back into the slot, once the belt is installed, then there's too much slack and the cams aren't properly aligned...that's why it provides instructions on how to *adjust* the timing belt by readjusting the cam pulleys.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
It may be best to listen to zetec owners when it comes to doing work to a zetec.




Best to listen to anybody that uses the proper tools and follows the proper procedures, using quality books by Helm, not Haynes, when it comes to working on a Zetec.

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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Maybe because I've done it myself (timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys). I didn't do the cam gears because I had already done the stuff once myself and yes it is a bit more work if cam gears have to be touched and more tools are needed.




More tools...as in: Ford's T74P-6256-B that's listed in Ford's Workshop Manual, in the section for "In-Vehicle Repairs" (Timing Belt Replacement) page number 303-01A-63 ...as one of the 3 tools that they say are required for proper timing belt replacement?

No *extra* tools are needed to get those cams off, I see.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
But guess what, if cam gears are not being changed (atleast on pre98s), then timing does not change. You lock the cams in at TDC with ANY piece of decent metal (a file WILL work fine) and you have the crank pulley aligned with the notch on the block. It's all pretty easy stuff to do. The only time I've heard of needing any kind of peg was during an engine rebuild. Ooo but what would I know, I've only done it on my own car.




You're just making excuses for not buying the tools and doing a job, skipping over some of the required and/or suggested steps, to save money. Doing it isn't the same as doing it exactly right, following all the procedures, using all the tools that are suggested and designed by Ford, for their Zetec, when replacing the timing belt.

Use a file? LOL

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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
The only time I've heard of needing any kind of peg was during an engine rebuild. Ooo but what would I know, I've only done it on my own car.




Not surprised that you've never heard of the *Timing Peg* that is listed as one of the special tools that is mentioned when replacing the *Timing Belt*

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I'm too sick right now to make a decent reply, but I will say again, it's better to listen to a zetec owner when it comes to working on a zetec. I go by experience, you know actually doing the job, and hmm must be doing something right as my car runs fine. Anybody can look in a book and read how it's "supposed" to be done. Just like using spring compressors on the strut assembly before removing them from the car, well I guess since the book says to do it that way, that that's the best way to do it. If you really want to waste time/money doing everything by the book then go ahead and do it that way.

You realize if you replace the timing belt with the cams locked (with any piece of metal, seriously, have you done a timing belt on a zetec?, just a strong piece of metal to hold the cams is needed, not some specially engineered thing) then the cam gears aren't gonna move while replacing the belt. NOW, if you can't fit the piece of metal in to lock the cams, then you could have to remove the gears, but that rarely rarely happens. Cam gears shouldn't need to be touched during a timing belt replacement. The tensioner keeps the belt free of slack once installed, soooo


What did you do with your zetec? Throw it away?


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Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I'm too sick right now to make a decent reply, but I will say again, it's better to listen to a zetec owner when it comes to working on a zetec.





You can't convince me that doing the job right with the right tools, following procedure is the wrong way to do it.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I go by experience, you know actually doing the job,




Doing the job, once, to one engine?

I've worked on 1,000s of cars since '83


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
and hmm must be doing something right as my car runs fine.




I use the right tools, go the extra distance for my customers.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Anybody can look in a book and read how it's "supposed" to be done.




I use Mitchell On Demand DVDs, mainly.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Just like using spring compressors on the strut assembly before removing them from the car, well I guess since the book says to do it that way, that that's the best way to do it.




My compressor is a Branick 7200...a little over 6' tall w/ its stand.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
If you really want to waste time/money doing everything by the book then go ahead and do it that way.




I charge by the hour, and my tools are a nice deduction, so it pays to do the job right the first time.

I bet my customers are glad that I don't use files, wooden boards, high-heeled shoes, etc...

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
You realize if you replace the timing belt with the cams locked




At the back side, that's why the pulley end needs to be loosened, when making adjustments, that's why Zetec's cam pulleys are *not* keyed, like most are. And Ford sure doesn't want mechanics using files, and letting the camshafts be their own *camshaft* holding tools.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
(with any piece of metal, seriously, have you done a timing belt on a zetec?,




Zetec, Hondas/Acuras, Mazdas, Isuzus, Volvos, VWs, Dodges, GMs, Toyotas, Suzukis, etc...


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
just a strong piece of metal to hold the cams is needed, not some specially engineered thing)




I use tools, not scrap.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
then the cam gears aren't gonna move while replacing the belt.




They don't move, that's why they need to be moved, using the right tools, sometimes...you can't just slap the engine cover back on if the belt is not right.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
NOW, if you can't fit the piece of metal in to lock the cams, then you could have to remove the gears, but that rarely rarely happens.




No, I do it about 50% of the time on the Zetecs...I want it to be as good as it can be.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Cam gears shouldn't need to be touched during a timing belt replacement. The tensioner keeps the belt free of slack once installed, soooo




They are, when they're designed to be adjusted/moved, during replacement, like the Zetec...and GMs 3.4, those pulleys have to be reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeal loose when doing a belt replacement...have to rotate the cams 180 degrees, with belt installed, when setting the tension/getting the cams and crank in time.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
What did you do with your zetec? Throw it away?




I don't have a Zetec, mine is a V-6

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I just got back from the mechanic's shop. He took the top timing belt cover and middle timng belt cover off the motor, and found the problem: the timing belt idler pulley on the lower right side is disintegrating. It's missing large chunks! A fine quality part that lasted for 27,000 miles.

The mechanic wanted $400 to replace the pully. He said the pully costs $60 and the rest is labor. He said I really should also replace the belt, the tensioner and the other two idler pullies, and that would be an extra $200, for a total of $600.

I declined (too expensive). So I had the car towed home just now. I've got my repair manual and some hand tools, and I am going to try to replace the idler pully myself. yikes


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It is must be nice to be so over paid that you can throw away aftermarket parts. I do agree on one thing, the cams should not be their own camshaft holders, BUT again, a special tool is not needed, you can use a wrench on a certain part of the cams to hold them. Though I didn't even have to do that because there is another way to hold them as well, but I don't suggest it for everyone to do. I guess you don't even know what kind of file I am talking about. A large file that is used to sharpen blades (not fingernails), a file that is in the same shape/size as the ford tool will perform the same job as the ford tool.

Anyways, I obviously know how to work on a zetec (yes A zetec, so I guess if I had to work on another, I couldn't do it, because I've only worked on A zetec yet it still runs fine ). I think you'd be a mechanic I would avoid, number 1 because you probably over charge for a SIMPLE timing belt replacement, because you think you have to buy hundreds of tools to do it. Yet I can change it in my backyard. Any decent mechanic will know how to change a timing belt (correctly) on a zetec and will already have the tools to do it (even if they aren't all ford specific tools). I know the performance shop that installed my cam gears didn't have all the Ford tools yet they managed to install my cam gears perfectly and in less time (less cost) than they had originally quoted. But I'm sure you could find something to argue about with the owner of the performance shop, an owner that builds and races various race cars. There will always be a "by the book" way and then there will be the "what works" way. I go by the "what works" way because it's cheaper, takes less time, and guess what?,,, it works.


98.5 SVT 91 Escort GT (almost sold) 96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve) FS: SVT rear sway bar WTB: Very cheap beater CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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