Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I'm too sick right now to make a decent reply, but I will say again, it's better to listen to a zetec owner when it comes to working on a zetec.




You can't convince me that doing the job right with the right tools, following procedure is the wrong way to do it.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
I go by experience, you know actually doing the job,



Doing the job, once, to one engine?

I've worked on 1,000s of cars since '83


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
and hmm must be doing something right as my car runs fine.



I use the right tools, go the extra distance for my customers.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Anybody can look in a book and read how it's "supposed" to be done.



I use Mitchell On Demand DVDs, mainly.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Just like using spring compressors on the strut assembly before removing them from the car, well I guess since the book says to do it that way, that that's the best way to do it.



My compressor is a Branick 7200...a little over 6' tall w/ its stand.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
If you really want to waste time/money doing everything by the book then go ahead and do it that way.



I charge by the hour, and my tools are a nice deduction, so it pays to do the job right the first time.

I bet my customers are glad that I don't use files, wooden boards, high-heeled shoes, etc...

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
You realize if you replace the timing belt with the cams locked



At the back side, that's why the pulley end needs to be loosened, when making adjustments, that's why Zetec's cam pulleys are *not* keyed, like most are. And Ford sure doesn't want mechanics using files, and letting the camshafts be their own *camshaft* holding tools.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
(with any piece of metal, seriously, have you done a timing belt on a zetec?,



Zetec, Hondas/Acuras, Mazdas, Isuzus, Volvos, VWs, Dodges, GMs, Toyotas, Suzukis, etc...


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
just a strong piece of metal to hold the cams is needed, not some specially engineered thing)



I use tools, not scrap.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
then the cam gears aren't gonna move while replacing the belt.



They don't move, that's why they need to be moved, using the right tools, sometimes...you can't just slap the engine cover back on if the belt is not right.

Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
NOW, if you can't fit the piece of metal in to lock the cams, then you could have to remove the gears, but that rarely rarely happens.



No, I do it about 50% of the time on the Zetecs...I want it to be as good as it can be.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
Cam gears shouldn't need to be touched during a timing belt replacement. The tensioner keeps the belt free of slack once installed, soooo



They are, when they're designed to be adjusted/moved, during replacement, like the Zetec...and GMs 3.4, those pulleys have to be reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeal loose when doing a belt replacement...have to rotate the cams 180 degrees, with belt installed, when setting the tension/getting the cams and crank in time.


Originally posted by Kremithefrog:
What did you do with your zetec? Throw it away?



I don't have a Zetec, mine is a V-6