Dan,
The bar when installed with all the components; Prothane Polyurethane Endlink Bushings, and Prothane Polyurethane Sway bar bushings (with dacromet coated steel brackets) should eliminate any chance of clunking or creaking, as all interfaces will be supported by poly bushings instead of the junk rubber OEM bushings. The stock endlinks are retained, but the stock bushings on the endlink are replaced (see pictures). The bracket supplied is not used, the way I have the bar on the car. The stock brackets are opened slightly, with the help of a vice and pliers to accomodate the slighter chunkier sway bar bushing, BUT I will provide a template to create a weld on backing plate that can be used to increase the strength of the stock backing plates AND make use of the supplied brackets if people so desire.
I haven't had to use them (the supplied brackets), and I have not visually seen, nor heard any evidence of a problem to require to do so. But the fact that you will have brackets will allow each user to add them if a problem does arrise.


Regards,
Anastazi
Father of the Aussie Bar
anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com

"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music."
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2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150
8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's.
Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502
http://www.geocities.com/qikslvrsvt