Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums General Troubleshooting Cooling Fan Short '98 SVT

I've got 2 questions for the group, hopefully someone can help cuz the mechs have just about said they won't touch my car anymore. Driving around town one day, I noticed the temp shooting up quite rapidly (got up to near the 'L'). I pulled over and noticed the cooling fans were not working. Call me dumb, but i suppose the fans should have kicked on long before the temp reached that high. Took it in to get serviced and they can't find anything "wrong" with it, yet it keeps blowing a 60 Amp fuse under the hood. I've replaced the temperature sending unit and still the same. If you disconnect the temp sending unit(not the sensor), the AC stops working but at least the fans do kick on but never turn on, logicaly i supposed since they have no signal from the sending unit. Otherwise, the fans won't come on at all. Any suggestions?

Question #2
Are there any "pre-drilled" holes on the firewall that would allow me to run some wires for my amp into the pasenger cabin, preferably on the driver side? Thanks

-ROD

1: I'm not sure, but when the car is cool, do the fans turn by hand freely? They do fail eventually and will take more juice to turn & blow fuses... One of mine froze once and stopped working, however the fuse never blew so I may be off on the cause.

2: If you remove the wiper arms and the plastic pieces at the base of the windshield you'll see a round rubberish cap that unscrews from the firewall. You can puncture a hole in that cap and run the wires into there. I did. I used a razor knife and cut an X into the cap, then pushed the wire through. The X resealed itself pretty good against the large Amp wire and I've never had any leakage or any problems at all. Like I said, the cap is a rubber type cap that unscrews. Just push the wire through, comes out a little above the break pedals I believe.


Good luck!

Thanks for the wiring tips. Got that done today. As for the fan situation, still no solution. The fans turn freely and the mechanic "tested" them by applying temporary direct current to them. He also placed an inline 30Amp fuse on the current wire and it held up, which leads to further questions. If the 30A fuze held up, why is it blowing a 60A fuze when we connect it to the normal circuitry? Where else can we test to find out where the extra current is being drawn from?

And one final unrelated question. On the "How To" section, when changing the transaxle fluid, when it says "if using regualr ATF" is that referring to regular Dextron III stuff or is referring to the synthetic stuff. Or better yet, if I use synthetic ATF, do i need the friction modifier? Thanks in advance.