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#99108 06/22/01 05:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KnuKonceptz:
What I cant understand is that people want the rpms to drop fast, why?


I dunno, but it doesn't feel right to most drivers - especially when lollygagging around town, shifting from 1st to 2nd always causes a lurch, it's possible that Ford thought it was a matchup for revs but it's too high

also, it's VERY noticible when you have people in the car and they yell "hey take your foot off the gas!" and you tell them - I did - 10 seconds ago... frown

anyways, I like my TH-Fix for that, and for killing Mr. Moose smile


Todd Christ SVT Contour Registry
MODS: KKM Intake, SHO Shop Y-Pipe, Bullit Fuel Door, Edelbrock RPM Resonator
'98 E0 SVT Contour #1037 of 6535
#99109 06/22/01 07:50 AM
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I agree with Alex. The early cars seem to have better results with the TH fix. A must do for the 95-97 Duratecs. Driveability is much improved with the fix.


Barry-2002 WRX-Sedona Red Pearl
K&N Air Filter- 225/50-16 SP5000's/Cusco Front Crossmember Brace/Borla Exhaust
JoeP Manual Boost Controller/Kartboy Solid Rear Endlinks
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Will Always Be Immaculate
#99110 06/22/01 12:22 PM
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I'm going to put my THF cap back in today, folks. (I might experiment with smaller or larger holes sizes, too.) I cannot stand the hanging revs any longer, and it's only been two days! I'm not totally sure if I am benefiting from improved mid-range response, so I don't see the need to keep it out.

In response to my getting terrible gas mileage without the fix, yeah - it was that bad on the way to work yesterday. BUT....going home in the afternoon, things improved with the gas gauge going UP instead of down! Strange.... (Would messing with the THF have an affect on the gas gauge???)


-Tim, Former crush: a '95 Contour GL 2.5L, 5-speed. Current love: 2001 Toyota Tundra SR5 King-cab 4x4.
#99111 06/22/01 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Cardoc:
I drilled a 7/64" hole


That seems a little small to me. I have two plugs...one drilled to 13/64 and 15/64. I have been using the 15/64 until 2 days ago when I removed it. Shifting does take a little getting used to but it seems to have a bit more low range torque. It is going to take a few more days to tell if I like it or not.


98.5 SE Sport badgeless, MTX, KKM, SVT exhaust with resonator intact.
1985 Z51 Vette with many mods. Only used when the Tour appears to be outclassed.
#99112 06/24/01 07:27 PM
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Well, I removed the TH Fix and sure enough I felt more mid range power, high rpms in 4th and 5th seemed better.

On a second note, I now have "the moose" arghhhhh........So now i have to decide weather or not to deal with the mooseing or not. To be honest I really dont mind the way the car drives without it, the "hang" is obviously noticable but seems easier to keep the car in the power band now.

On a third note....after I removed the TH Fix, I reset the PCM by removing fuses 4 and 11. I posted a more detailed explanantion in the "Problems" forums. After I did this the CEL light which had been on for 3 months, was now gone! So that was a bonus! laugh


Simon W. Las Vegas.
96 SE V6 MTX Tereador Red (1st Blown Engine, better be the last!)
1999 SVT Engine
SVT Exhaust w/custom DTM Tips and optimized Y-pipe and no Res (thanks to Po-Jay!). LSD Quaife(thanks to Terry!), SCA CAI w/KKM, Grizzly clutch, FMS 9mm wires, Airknights custom short shifter.

"You can only get more rice at one time by ordering Chinese" - Davo7SVT
"it's only nuts and bolts" - Terry Haines
"Drive it like you stole it" - Me!
#99113 06/24/01 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by tdavidk:
Did your computer have time to learn [b]without the THF? Or was it still running with the "idea" that it was still installed?[/b]


i still say this whole "learning" thing is just a myth. never seen any hard proof that the computer needs to be reset, or learn a mod. show me some documentation or a dyno plot that shows a difference between a non-reset computer w/ mod, and a reset computer w/mod... then i MIGHT start to think this is true...


i am offically a troll... so take my information and advice with a grain of salt.

08/15/2001 - 11/05/2001 : 1999 Ford Contour SVT : 170fwhp - 147.9 fwtq
07/17/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Roush Mustang GT Stage 1
11/05/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Ford F-150 SVT Lightning
#99114 06/24/01 09:51 PM
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also if this was true then you could stick a sock in your air filter and performance wouldn't drop because the car would still "think" it was getting enough air. it just doesn't make sense... what is the point of an MAF if the pcm just uses "stored/expected" values to determine how much fuel to use. if the pcm reads in more air, it will adjust fuel accordingly. just as if it reads in less air, it will adjust fuel accordingly... i think it is all in your head about having to reset the computer... just doesn't make sense...


i am offically a troll... so take my information and advice with a grain of salt.

08/15/2001 - 11/05/2001 : 1999 Ford Contour SVT : 170fwhp - 147.9 fwtq
07/17/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Roush Mustang GT Stage 1
11/05/2001 - __/__/____ : 2001 Ford F-150 SVT Lightning
#99115 06/25/01 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bret:
also if this was true then you could stick a sock in your air filter and performance wouldn't drop because the car would still "think" it was getting enough air. it just doesn't make sense... what is the point of an MAF if the pcm just uses "stored/expected" values to determine how much fuel to use. if the pcm reads in more air, it will adjust fuel accordingly. just as if it reads in less air, it will adjust fuel accordingly... i think it is all in your head about having to reset the computer... just doesn't make sense...


Well....the car would be getting more air than expected (opened up the IAC passage). Not less as if you plugged it up. This passage is also after the MAF! This is why I thought it might make a difference.
I really don't know much about the OBD systems or the ECMs, so I can't tell you if it is "all in my head" or not. I am just going by what the knowledgeble people on this forum have said about them.


GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!

Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
#99116 06/25/01 02:12 AM
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Simon W. Las Vegas.
96 SE V6 MTX Tereador Red (1st Blown Engine, better be the last!)
1999 SVT Engine
SVT Exhaust w/custom DTM Tips and optimized Y-pipe and no Res (thanks to Po-Jay!). LSD Quaife(thanks to Terry!), SCA CAI w/KKM, Grizzly clutch, FMS 9mm wires, Airknights custom short shifter.

"You can only get more rice at one time by ordering Chinese" - Davo7SVT
"it's only nuts and bolts" - Terry Haines
"Drive it like you stole it" - Me!
#99117 06/26/01 05:00 AM
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Bret, if you don't like the above statement as proof, ages ago someone posted the approved Ford relearn routine, which is about a page long. Of course, I don't have a link for you. Maybe someone else?


Marco Tatta
98.5 SE MTX, Duratec
EGR block, fog light
fix, custom shift boot, monsterflow intake, Ecotek valve
Quasi dual cardoctor exhaust.
Hacksaw short shift, Momo race "s" carbon knob, ghetto rear strut bar, 16 inch cougar wheels with 225/50/16 kumho 712s
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