Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Duratec Performance TH Fix advisory!

The main reason I did the TH Fix was to kill the Moosing. My 99 SVT was doing it constantly. I will try removing it today to see if the moosing is a winter problem only.
I also think that shifting is smoother and there is enhanced "Engine Braking" when the plug (TH Fix) is in place.

I don't really have a choice....I NEED the THF. My car will randomly rev at 4000, yes 4000RPM at idle without the THF. Maybe I should have Ford take a look at it before my warranty is up in 4K miles.

I didn't say I threw away the cap. I'm going to give it a couple days and if the hang gets annoying...well.

Well... let's see here.. Moosing has a fix.. But it involves changing the IAC valve and hoses.. You should by all means take it to the dealership and get it fixed before your warranty runs out. Mine hasn't moosed yet..(57k) But I keep the throttle body cleaned.. As far as the cap is concerned.. I'm keeping mine.. But not to reinstall.. Just to have around. Performance has picked up a great bit without the cap installed.. Driveability has actually been better without then with it in.. I'll take the revs..

Dom

I have the updated IAC valve in my '99 SE MTX, still had the moose. TH fix dynoed a little less in one of Ray's dyno runs... The few that it costs is worth it IMHO... plus if you bump up the size of the TB via a Mustang unit, that little IAC passage isn't so important. I'll try a few runs with my "special" set up tonight to see if it makes any difference.

You've got to find the right size to drill the cap. My idle is a perfect 750. Rock steady. I've driven it with and without the cap recently with no difference in performance other than the irritating throttle hang.

Throttle hang may have been worse on my car. I didn't really bother me unless I was in traffic. It wasn't a problem during hard driving.

Sounds like the IAC valve sticking open. I get this happening about every 6 months. I just pull it off and give it a good clean and the problem is gone.

// Chris Root
// '99 SVT Black / Midnight blue (#2743/2760), new engine @5000Km, revised tranny @20000Km!
// B&M Edge Shifter w/ Mondeo ST200 knob, KKM pedals, K&N, Ray's TH Fix, Fog Mod
// Mobil 1 Synth 5W30, Ford "Gold" MTX fluid, 885 fogs, 50W Halogen reverse lights
// recontents: dash clock, Mystique rear dome light, front bumper braces

Chris...Can you shoot me an email briefly explaining what I need to do to clean the IAC. I am fairly competent under the hood, so minimal explanation should be necessary.

Thats why I love this site

Regards,

I am sorry! When I asked that Q I was asking it to Dom (cardoc). I was wondering if he didn't reset the computer and give it time to learn without the THF. This may give him false results on his little test.
I took my THF (1/4") out a while back because I was having idling problems. I was getting good acceleration also after removing the THF, and the shifts as someone said remained in the power band. I liked that, but I also knew how shi+y my car was drivability wise without the THF. So I unhooked the battery put the THF back in and let the car learn with the THF in again and havn't had any problems with idle since. If I were to go to the track I would probably take it out because I did realize that with the hang my shifts were much stronger, stayed right in the middle of the power. But I did a very short one hour test of this, so I don't know if the car was just running good with the extra air it wasn't used to having. Also I had just put the SVT air box on a day or so before my little test. So I had put to many veriables into my test to get acurate results. I just wanted to make sure Dom was being scientific before he put out info.

Hey Ted... Yes.. this was scientific and all.. lol And whatever you do the first piece of advice I can give you is to NEVER remove the battery cable.. It takes forever to re-learn itself and ends up only getting 200 miles to a tank until three months later it finally learns. I'm up to 325 miles a tank now and loving it.. If I reset the damn thing now it will set me clear back and give me no better performance. Ford has a way with programming these modules to have "Fuzzy logic" to control things in it's own way.. let's just say the computers have a personality of their own..lol and causing the computer to go "brain dead" as little as possible helps out the most. The G-Tech performance meter said it all to me... I could feel that it was stuttering and struggling under 4 grand.. But then it showed in my acceleration times.. Once out it came back up to better than original times.. (Last time I checked it was when the exhaust was first installed).. would you believe without the cap it runs .8 faster 0-60 and I also gained .2 by adding the resistor to the intake?? Hehe... It's getting quicker.. And I'm still on my 2.5 ... not on my 3.0 yet.

All in all after driving for a week without it (Which should give the computer time to adjust) It still runs the same as when I first un-installed the cap... It pulls harder in the midrange and it seems to pull just a little stronger on the top end (just a little)...

Adding the Mustang TB is something I'm going to do shortly.. As I have one sitting on my desk..lol But I still don't think that it will compensate for the TH cap.

Dom