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This is what Demon said to me in a PM: "I just used a good industrial expanding foam sealant from Home Depot. This stuff was very thick to begin with. High pressure exanding urethane. It definitely firmed up the unibody. I noticed it right away. It also brings with it a bit more vibration, but IMO that's a minor trade off. Some may say it just gives a better 'Road Feel'" Not having checked on prices, I can't say for sure how much cheaper the HD stuff is, but at least with the Foamseal stuff, you know you have the right foam, and the guesswork is gone. It's the same stuff spec'd by Ford for the Mustang, as well as by Lexus and Infiniti for various cars. And, if you get the wrong stuff, there is no going back
98 Silver Frost SVT
97 BMW 540I Sport, six speed
"Blue is for sky, black is for soil, and white is for simplicity, purity and hope for the future"
"A coveted car should never stunt your life, but should make it more rich and interesting."
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To me this is worthwhile doing. Stiff structure means a lot to both racing machines as well as the production vehicles. So was there a tutorial available as to where to inject the foam in our Contours? That info will save tremendous amount of time. Where is Demon, btw?
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Joined: Dec 2001
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where exactly do you fill the foam?
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Joined: May 2002
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I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
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Originally posted by Phil Rohtla: Originally posted by Kremithefrog: Not much more money? Maybe not to someone that has a CSVT, but to someone with a 96 zetec it is.
It's not much more money at all, even if you blew all of your money on FMS Wires, UDP, MSD, CTA Intake, SVT sway bar, Superchip, Roush Springs, 17" Rage 5.0s, Optimized TB, Adj. Cam Gears, Corbeau A4s, RSTB, CF Hood. 
That said, Demon told me that the stuff he got at Home Depot worked.
Yeah it is. Because my money has been used on that stuff and now I have to use the money I have on college. How can you tell me it's not much more money when it's MY money? Wow, I guess I should just give it to you to spend since you really know how to spend it. It would cost ATLEAST $60 more. That's a good bit to me especially when I have a cheaper alternative that is almost/just as good.
And like I said, I can't find that stuff at Home Depot, anyone have a name for it?
ibub, let's keep the thread on topic.
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by ssmumich00: where exactly do you fill the foam?
I want to know too. If its not too big of a job, Im going to start it this weekend.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 21,653 |
98.5 SVT
91 Escort GT (almost sold)
96 ATX Zetec (i brake to watch you swerve)
FS: SVT rear sway bar
WTB: Very cheap beater
CEG Dragon Run - October 13-15
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Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,301
Addicted CEG\'er
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Originally posted by Kremithefrog: The frame rails.
Ok, but unibody cars dont exactly have framerails
Has anyone that has done this mod have any input?
Last edited by CRZYDRVR; 06/29/04 10:06 AM.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,399
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hey, cool your jets. I was kidding. That's what this  symbolises. Back on topic, I am just saying that if it's $60 more (and I was a student too -- twice, as well as working for Foot Locker for a year), why not go with the stuff that you KNOW is the right stuff, rather than take the risk with something that, once it is in there, ain't coming out EVER. Demon didn't/couldn't give me the name of the foam he used. He just said it was the most expanding, highest PSI stuff that he could find at Home Depot. To quote (and I hope he doesn't mind me quoting a PM): "I used a hard durometer self expanding polturethane foam. I filled every rail and hole accessible from the bottom. *basically the 2 major uni-frame rails under the cabin and the 2 small rear rails." Now, this is all well and good, but understand the risks of such things. Many of the expanding foams available expand so much that they tell you not to use then near windows as they can apply enough pressure to distort the window frame and the headers. Do you want that to happen to your car, especially since once it sticks, is difficult or impossible to be removed? I cannot pretend to be an expert on the topic, but I did my research on this a while ago. I decided against it for the reason that I live in Ottawa, and corrosion is a problem. If you have any corrosion started where this stuff has been injected, it would be difficult, if not impossible to repair. And by the way Kremit, I bought my SVT because I liked it, but also because it was way cheaper than my other options.
98 Silver Frost SVT
97 BMW 540I Sport, six speed
"Blue is for sky, black is for soil, and white is for simplicity, purity and hope for the future"
"A coveted car should never stunt your life, but should make it more rich and interesting."
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Kermit, Phil, I hate to see you guys sour over differences of opinions. Can we focus on the hardware modification only?
So here is my take on Phil's concerns: * need to use the right foam, too much expansion a concern * need to use the right foam, corrosion a concern * current CSVT perfect as is, no need for foam upgrade
Kermit and others: * which is the cheaper alternative foam? * where do we inject the foam? * how much difference will this really make?
What I gathered so far(mainly based on Demon's experience): * Home Depot stuff ok * inject through holes on the bottom * front two rails and rear two rails
My addtional thoughts/questions: * what about the rocker panels that runs from front to rear? * what about the A/B/C pillars that provides the torsional strength? * what about the front subframe that control arm is attached to? * when foam is injected should the car be off the ground so after it hardens it is preloaded? * shouldn't we look for minimally expanding foam(max density and hardness)? * who else has done this besides Demon?
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Read some information here! And here! Also here! last one! The links are the same ones that Todras found in the first posting I found.
dion
98 SVT, 200 whp/190 lb. ft tq (tuned by ADC), 3.0, P&P heads w/2.5L valves, optimized TB, MSDS, SCA 2.5" catback, SHOshop UIM/LIM, underdrive pulley set, TD's, Koni/H&R, BAER/TCE, Progress, CF1 products
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