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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,825
Cool Toe Chris
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Cool Toe Chris
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,825 |
Originally posted by warmonger: Originally posted by Rev. Po-Jay: I did not have the airdam on the underside of the radiator/engine on. I think that it helps to route air to the radiator more effectively. I put it back on, flushed the radiator, and fixed my T-Stat install (it seems I had the gasket on the wrong side of the thermostat, which didn't allow the t-stat to seat properly in the housing) and now she seems cooler. The OBDII scanner confirmed the tems displayed by the gauge. I have a tighter than stock mesh on the front facia that I will remove tonight as well.
Wow! You do know that the addition of a simple air dam to a car can increase cooling efficiency around 20% or more on some cars. If GM actually spends the money on an air dam and claims 20-40% increases in cooling efficiency then you know it must be necessary.
Holy crap! I know what I'm doing tonight.
Chris
NJ
98.5 SVT Silver Frost
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Originally posted by livinsvt: Usualy air dams are more for gas mileage, at least in most Gm cases. They can actualy give 1-2 mpg
Not trying to be an a-hole but:
Air dams are only in place to create turbulence under the car right before the radiator/ac condenser area. The turbulence screws up the smooth flow of air under the car and causes it to push a little pressure upwards, in effect forcing more air into the radiator since Air, as all things in nature takes the path of least resistance. Therefore, more turbulence and higher pressure equals wind resistance...especially since it is forced through the cooling fins of a radiator... another restriction. All that equals more energy required, albeit small amounts. I do not see how gas mileage could be inmproved. I could see more power resulting from it since the engine is cooler with more airflow through the radiator. Cooler equals better timing curves for the pcm and maybe a denser intake charge.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 555
Veteran CEG\'er
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I juse recently installed a new 160 T-Stat. It works great cooling the water temps.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Originally posted by Speed Demons: I juse recently installed a new 160 T-Stat.
It works great cooling the water temps.
Please explain to us how a thermostat cools the water temperature...
Unless the ambient outside temperature is moderate a lower temperature thermostat will make little difference in engine operating temperature.
The cooling is done by the antifreeze's transfer ability (60/40 water/OAT) and the cooling system's efficiency. (radiator core size and fan size & programmed fan kick on temperature which is 216 & 224 )
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 555
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Your right. I actually was thinking more than the words I wrote down.  Yeah I understand the fans (Not the Thermostat) and radiator, etc. controls the coolant temp. I did however flush the radiator and refilled with new coolant + Redline Water Wetter and new 160 T-Stat. Sorry for the mixup.
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Thermostat sets the lowest operating temperature. Fans set the highest operating temperature.
So, sitting in traffic or during stop-and-go, you are a slave to the fan settings. Cruising on the open road, you should be running at or near thermostat temp, assuming your radiator and coolant are efficient.
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Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 555
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
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Interesting that my temps (according to Ford guage) were usually running half ways between R-M in the word NORMAL. Now I can be driving freeways speeds and it's at N. At stop and go traffic its at R.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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OP
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I have a Autometer and it now reads about 215 in traffic and about 185-190 when hauling arse. I have the 160 T-Stat. I truly think that the SVT Radiator is not efficient enough for the 3L in 110 heat. PHX is hot as Hades right now. I am okay with the temps now, but 232 was a bit high for my taste.
SVT Parts For Sale!PM Me.
2006 M6 Cyclone Gray GTO
1995 Mazda Protege Commuter Special
93 FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide
I'm A TROLL Now!~
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Joined: Aug 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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There is no appreciable difference in heat generated between 2.5 and 3L engines under normal load and idle. Only under full throttle where the increased intake charge causes some increased heat would I be concerned about it. I haven't heard of any other SVT 3L setups having difficulty with heat, starting with myself and I toured around phoenix visiting my friend all the time.
I'm beginning to think your radiator may have become less efficient due to sediment buildup or perhaps the cooling fins are full of dust. Think about all the normal 2.5L that do fine in AZ temps with the smaller radiator and ATX. The SVT radiator only really comes into play under track/racing conditions of continuous full throttle. It should be more than sufficient for any 3L.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas!
See My Mods
'05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red
'06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 359
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
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Posts: 359 |
ok, this is one of the very rare exceptions that this information may be helpful. heres the lowdown, I was using these radiator motors for battlebots and you can really push alot more power out of them if you want. Basically they run flawlessly at 24V heres a little motor chart I made of the 2 http://www.mrgoodbytes.com/neco/ev/book1.htmland heres some tweaking you can do to the motor itself http://www.mrgoodbytes.com/neco/ev/I have alot more info I could drag up if any one wants. ~Terry
yes... I am a cougar owner trolling on your board.
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