Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 54
W
Member
OP Offline
Member
W
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 54
How simple (or not) was the install? I got some Bosch +4's and Ford Racing 9mm wires. Do I need anything besides the basic 5/8" deep socket and extention to do the swap? Upon visual inspection, most of the plugs look easy enough to reach, but what about cylinder 3 (driver's side rear)? Please don't tell me I need to pull off the intake manifold. Any help is appreciated, thanks!


'99 Cougar V6 5spd - I/H/E, Koni/GC
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 597
M
Member
Offline
Member
M
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 597
Quote:
Originally posted by Wayne Nelson:
How simple (or not) was the install? I got some Bosch +4's and Ford Racing 9mm wires. Do I need anything besides the basic 5/8" deep socket and extention to do the swap? Upon visual inspection, most of the plugs look easy enough to reach, but what about cylinder 3 (driver's side rear)? Please don't tell me I need to pull off the intake manifold. Any help is appreciated, thanks!


You will need a 10mm and a 7mm socket. It's easiest to remove the coil to replace the back 3 plugs. There is a howto in the howto section.

--Matt


00' SVT Contour, Black and Blue #954 of 2150
Stock....

2003 Red Fire Convertable Cobra due in September...
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 54
W
Member
OP Offline
Member
W
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 54
Thanks for the info, Matt! Tough call for me, either spend $50 to make my shop do it, or spend a little more; and get a torque wrench, some compressed air and solvent. Not to mention a decent rubberized socket that won't get stuck in the cylinder head, the one I have now has a much tighter grip on the plug than the drive. mad

I noticed you have the same wires and plugs. How many miles were on your car when you switched, and did you notice anything different (or better)?


'99 Cougar V6 5spd - I/H/E, Koni/GC
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618
T
Moderator
Offline
Moderator
T
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 618
Quote:
Originally posted by Wayne Nelson:
Thanks for the info, Matt! Tough call for me, either spend $50 to make my shop do it, or spend a little more; and get a torque wrench, some compressed air and solvent. Not to mention a decent rubberized socket that won't get stuck in the cylinder head, the one I have now has a much tighter grip on the plug than the drive. mad

Use a little "lube" on the inside of the plug socket. You could put some vaseline on the ceramic insulator before you slide it in the socket.
Also, I think it is always better to spend the money on tools!!!! You will have them next time you need them, aaannnnddd you can NEVER have too many tools! laugh


GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!

Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 597
M
Member
Offline
Member
M
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 597
Quote:
Originally posted by Wayne Nelson:
Thanks for the info, Matt! Tough call for me, either spend $50 to make my shop do it, or spend a little more; and get a torque wrench, some compressed air and solvent. Not to mention a decent rubberized socket that won't get stuck in the cylinder head, the one I have now has a much tighter grip on the plug than the drive. mad

I noticed you have the same wires and plugs. How many miles were on your car when you switched, and did you notice anything different (or better)?


Well...I put Bosch +4s w/ Taylor wires on my car at about 8k miles. Those were great! At about 12k miles my engine was replaced. The dealership wouldn't install the Bosch +4s and the taylor wires. When I saw Ford come out with some for the Cougar, I decided to make the switch. I installed them at 14k miles. Yes, I noticed better throttle response.

--Matt


00' SVT Contour, Black and Blue #954 of 2150
Stock....

2003 Red Fire Convertable Cobra due in September...
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,296
1
Member
Offline
Member
1
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,296
10" socket extension.


UBRF.org , Western New York's Premiere Automotive Forum.

Yeah, I got some bolt-ons.
Car Pics
Video of Brullen cat-back on a \'95 SE
How-to: Short Shifter for Pre-98 MTX

"heres the deal $2 grand buy in winner gets the cash and the girl and the respect. We'll race from 0 to Inf. until I win." - someone on the internet
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 144
I
Member
Offline
Member
I
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 144
Quote:
Originally posted by Wayne Nelson:
How simple (or not) was the install? I got some Bosch +4's and Ford Racing 9mm wires. Do I need anything besides the basic 5/8" deep socket and extention to do the swap? Upon visual inspection, most of the plugs look easy enough to reach, but what about cylinder 3 (driver's side rear)? Please don't tell me I need to pull off the intake manifold. Any help is appreciated, thanks!


I find that a swivel-head ratchet is nice for the back 3 plugs, but not necessary. What is nice is changing plugs on a hot engine and burning yourself on the manifold wink

Lay a towel on it if you do it hot.
I wish there were some phenolic spacers available for our cars.......that upper intake gets WAYYYY too hot IMO


'98 Tropic Green Tour SE Sport V-6 ATX
"I promise I wont modify it honey, it's a family car!"
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 104
J
Member
Offline
Member
J
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 104
You should not chancge the plugs on a hot motor any ways you could damage the threads. eek


98 E1
99 SE to inlaws
02" Explorer
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,915
C
Member
Offline
Member
C
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,915
Quote:
Originally posted by jetace:
You should not chancge the plugs on a hot motor any ways you could damage the threads. eek


good call......the motor needs to be cool or cold when you change the plugs because of our aluminum parts


www.shox.com Dealer
Koni's 135 a piece
Eibach's 190 a set
KYB's 70 a piece
H+R's 225 a set

see profile for website, aol name, etc
Business:WestEndMobil@yahoo.com
Personal:Corey_pimp1@yahoo.com
1998.5 SCSVT ($16000 takes it)
2001 GSXR-1000
1988 Corsica (the beater)
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 445
G
Member
Offline
Member
G
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 445
Getting the rear plugs out is easier than putting the new ones in. I find it much easier if you use a length of rubber tubing. The tubing will allow you to guide the plug into the hole and begin the tightning. If you're a couple of threads off you don't have to worry about stripping anything because the tube will just start slipping around the end of the sparkplug. When it's going in right and the tube is slipping, finish the job up with the ratchet. I but my tube/hose at an AutoZone for under a buck. And don't forget the anti-sieze compound.


Clinton
'96 T-Red Contour SE V6 ATX
'01 Radium Sentra SE
-Waiting for-
'02 CD Silver Focus SVT
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  GTO Pete 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5