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How simple (or not) was the install? I got some Bosch +4's and Ford Racing 9mm wires. Do I need anything besides the basic 5/8" deep socket and extention to do the swap? Upon visual inspection, most of the plugs look easy enough to reach, but what about cylinder 3 (driver's side rear)? Please don't tell me I need to pull off the intake manifold. Any help is appreciated, thanks!
'99 Cougar V6 5spd - I/H/E, Koni/GC
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Originally posted by Wayne Nelson: How simple (or not) was the install? I got some Bosch +4's and Ford Racing 9mm wires. Do I need anything besides the basic 5/8" deep socket and extention to do the swap? Upon visual inspection, most of the plugs look easy enough to reach, but what about cylinder 3 (driver's side rear)? Please don't tell me I need to pull off the intake manifold. Any help is appreciated, thanks! You will need a 10mm and a 7mm socket. It's easiest to remove the coil to replace the back 3 plugs. There is a howto in the howto section. --Matt
00' SVT Contour, Black and Blue #954 of 2150 Stock....
2003 Red Fire Convertable Cobra due in September...
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Thanks for the info, Matt! Tough call for me, either spend $50 to make my shop do it, or spend a little more; and get a torque wrench, some compressed air and solvent. Not to mention a decent rubberized socket that won't get stuck in the cylinder head, the one I have now has a much tighter grip on the plug than the drive. I noticed you have the same wires and plugs. How many miles were on your car when you switched, and did you notice anything different (or better)?
'99 Cougar V6 5spd - I/H/E, Koni/GC
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Originally posted by Wayne Nelson: Thanks for the info, Matt! Tough call for me, either spend $50 to make my shop do it, or spend a little more; and get a torque wrench, some compressed air and solvent. Not to mention a decent rubberized socket that won't get stuck in the cylinder head, the one I have now has a much tighter grip on the plug than the drive. Use a little "lube" on the inside of the plug socket. You could put some vaseline on the ceramic insulator before you slide it in the socket. Also, I think it is always better to spend the money on tools!!!! You will have them next time you need them, aaannnnddd you can NEVER have too many tools! 
GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!
Ted tdavidk76@hotmail.com '95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX. Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods. Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
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Originally posted by Wayne Nelson: Thanks for the info, Matt! Tough call for me, either spend $50 to make my shop do it, or spend a little more; and get a torque wrench, some compressed air and solvent. Not to mention a decent rubberized socket that won't get stuck in the cylinder head, the one I have now has a much tighter grip on the plug than the drive.
I noticed you have the same wires and plugs. How many miles were on your car when you switched, and did you notice anything different (or better)?Well...I put Bosch +4s w/ Taylor wires on my car at about 8k miles. Those were great! At about 12k miles my engine was replaced. The dealership wouldn't install the Bosch +4s and the taylor wires. When I saw Ford come out with some for the Cougar, I decided to make the switch. I installed them at 14k miles. Yes, I noticed better throttle response. --Matt
00' SVT Contour, Black and Blue #954 of 2150 Stock....
2003 Red Fire Convertable Cobra due in September...
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Originally posted by Wayne Nelson: How simple (or not) was the install? I got some Bosch +4's and Ford Racing 9mm wires. Do I need anything besides the basic 5/8" deep socket and extention to do the swap? Upon visual inspection, most of the plugs look easy enough to reach, but what about cylinder 3 (driver's side rear)? Please don't tell me I need to pull off the intake manifold. Any help is appreciated, thanks! I find that a swivel-head ratchet is nice for the back 3 plugs, but not necessary. What is nice is changing plugs on a hot engine and burning yourself on the manifold Lay a towel on it if you do it hot. I wish there were some phenolic spacers available for our cars.......that upper intake gets WAYYYY too hot IMO
'98 Tropic Green Tour SE Sport V-6 ATX "I promise I wont modify it honey, it's a family car!"
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You should not chancge the plugs on a hot motor any ways you could damage the threads. 
98 E1 99 SE to inlaws 02" Explorer
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Originally posted by jetace: You should not chancge the plugs on a hot motor any ways you could damage the threads.  good call......the motor needs to be cool or cold when you change the plugs because of our aluminum parts
www.shox.com Dealer Koni's 135 a piece Eibach's 190 a set KYB's 70 a piece H+R's 225 a set see profile for website, aol name, etc Business:WestEndMobil@yahoo.com Personal:Corey_pimp1@yahoo.com 1998.5 SCSVT ($16000 takes it) 2001 GSXR-1000 1988 Corsica (the beater)
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Getting the rear plugs out is easier than putting the new ones in. I find it much easier if you use a length of rubber tubing. The tubing will allow you to guide the plug into the hole and begin the tightning. If you're a couple of threads off you don't have to worry about stripping anything because the tube will just start slipping around the end of the sparkplug. When it's going in right and the tube is slipping, finish the job up with the ratchet. I but my tube/hose at an AutoZone for under a buck. And don't forget the anti-sieze compound.
Clinton '96 T-Red Contour SE V6 ATX '01 Radium Sentra SE -Waiting for- '02 CD Silver Focus SVT
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