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Wait...does your battery light flicker when you jump on it...Because when my alternator started to go bad the light would come on everytime i floored it.


Also, have you had any other problmes besides the obvious...check engine lights....problmes starting??(besides recently)


have you done regular maintnence??? If you have to jump it it may be something else.....when you try to start it with out jumping, does the start crank over at all or is there no power at all.

I think you might want to hold off ont eh fuel pump for now...honestly get a charging system tester, or try and get to your local kragens (they test for free) they can test your whole charging system and see if theres anyhting wrong.

Or just take the batter to them to see if theres a dead cell.....was it running fine before this??

Lupe


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IS there a big FUEL smell at all....i may have your answer if you do....


On 1999 returnless cars they have a sensor that moitors fuel in the rail..well theres a little diafram in it the prevents fuel from going into a vacum line.

its directly under the throttle body on the fuel line itself.


On 1998 return systems, its the fuel pressure regulator....this may be your problem....ill ahve to double check my ford CD at home to see the fuel system for a return system.


But if your smelling a larg amount of fuel, this could be your problem.

Lupe


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hey lupe, sorry didn't respond so promptly, busy week with weddings. anyway, to answer your question, yeah bro, it doesn't even turn or attempt to turn, its like its completely dead. my dad tried charging it with his little machine, but the meter was showing that the battery wasn't accepting a charge...

he then took a "hydrometer" to test the specific gravity of the battery and showed that there was leaks, and i had a bad battery.

But it all comes down to the Stalling above 4,500RPM's on first, second, and third gears. is that fuel pump related? i mean the car kicks down, bears down, like it wants to die, no hang, not gradual, very sudden and abrupt...


Jeff Silva E0 Contour SVT Silver -STEEDA PEDALS -K&N Drop In -Ford Racing Wires (w/Bosch +2's) -Cleared Headlights -Yokohama AVS ES100's -Alpine CDA7893 w/MBQuartz -EUROLITE 9006/893
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when i had the problme it was my FPS (fuel pressuer sensor) had gone bad...on 98's with return systems, they have a FPR (fuel pressure regulator).

It would stall on me at low and high RPM's.

The way to find out is if there is a strong odor of gas comming from the upper intake, or the Air Filter area...or even in general form the engine bay.


Now, it is slightly possible that your problem is related to the electrical system.

My reconmendation is to replace the battery first...drive around for a bit and see if your having problems still.


Lupe


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I'm having a very similar problem. It was only jerking at high RPMs with low fuel. Now, after a 400 drive across California it's completely dying on me. Half tank, full tank - it's all the same; stalls at over 50 all the same I think it's time to replace the fuel pump, but it costs a bunch if you don't do it yourself. It should be doable [except for getting that metal ring off] for about a $100 [cost of new pump @ kragen].


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Originally posted by lovemycontour:
I'm having a very similar problem. It was only jerking at high RPMs with low fuel. Now, after a 400 drive across California it's completely dying on me. Half tank, full tank - it's all the same; stalls at over 50 all the same I think it's time to replace the fuel pump, but it costs a bunch if you don't do it yourself. It should be doable [except for getting that metal ring off] for about a $100 [cost of new pump @ kragen].





Yours sounds more like a fuel pump problem.....the only reason im going at Silver's in a diffrent way is because he also experienced an electrical problem.


I reconmend having it checked out by a shop you trust....you will not pull a check engine light, but when my fuel pump went bad, my mechanic pulled a "hidden" code, that does not throw a check engine. And it was a faulty fuel pump.

Lupe


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Lupe, thanks for all the insight bro. Nice to know you're just down the way in San Jose, maybe when i get this crunkity car fixed up we i can hook up with you guys. Thanks again. i'm attempting to pick up a battery tonight so i'll let you know what the verdict is.


Jeff Silva E0 Contour SVT Silver -STEEDA PEDALS -K&N Drop In -Ford Racing Wires (w/Bosch +2's) -Cleared Headlights -Yokohama AVS ES100's -Alpine CDA7893 w/MBQuartz -EUROLITE 9006/893
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Originally posted by SilvaSVT98:
Lupe, thanks for all the insight bro. Nice to know you're just down the way in San Jose, maybe when i get this crunkity car fixed up we i can hook up with you guys. Thanks again. i'm attempting to pick up a battery tonight so i'll let you know what the verdict is.




Hey man I'm in San Jose for summer too Let's replace the fuel pumps together!


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dude... hell yeah! i'm down with that! I dont' know $#!T about cars man! i learn 3/4's the stuff i know up on this forum and thats no lie. Putting a new battery in tommorow morning. Will post the results and see if it still stalls. oh yeah... DO NOT BUY "EXIDE" Batteries. I was told not to get one buy someone at Sears but i did anyway and it only lasted for one and a half years.


Jeff Silva E0 Contour SVT Silver -STEEDA PEDALS -K&N Drop In -Ford Racing Wires (w/Bosch +2's) -Cleared Headlights -Yokohama AVS ES100's -Alpine CDA7893 w/MBQuartz -EUROLITE 9006/893
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hey Lupe, replaced the battery and took it for a test drive... took the REVs up to 7,000, car doesn't stall... drove like it usually does. Dont' know what to think. Should i go about like the battery was the problem and what caused the stalling. or should i be cautious about the fuel pump. What sort of things should i look for to make sure this pump is okay?????


Jeff Silva E0 Contour SVT Silver -STEEDA PEDALS -K&N Drop In -Ford Racing Wires (w/Bosch +2's) -Cleared Headlights -Yokohama AVS ES100's -Alpine CDA7893 w/MBQuartz -EUROLITE 9006/893
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