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#982063 06/16/04 07:06 PM
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Hey all,
I am just wondering what suspension upgrades are available without lowering my svt. I realize that lowering results performance gain so I will be forced to give up some. However, if I go more than about 1/4" lower I will have trouble getting in my driveway, and my town (Boulder) has some sucko roads that love to jump up and scrape the bumpers. It sounds like strut tower braces only help much with very spirited driving. Rear sway bar sounds pretty good if I can figure out how to upgrade the mounts. What other options do I have? Would urethane bushings make a difference? I would love to have progressive springs, could I somehow lift my car then put on lowering springs?

Thanks,
Dave
'99 silver frost svt

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I'd be interested in just upgrading the dampers and leaving the springs at stock height, and doing the bushings and rear sway bar.


"Think of it, if you like, as a librarian with a G-string under the tweed." Clarkson on the Mondeo.
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Keep your stock springs, install Konis or Bilsteins, upgrade the rear swaybar, and replace your worn bushings with poly, where possible, or at least fresh OEM rubber. It all makes a difference, even the bushings.


Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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Cool, I can use konis with stock springs? Will this help with body roll, or just give me better contact with the road (I'm assuming no body roll improvement).

Thanks,
Dave
'99 silver frost svt

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Body roll is mostly based on your springs!

-Andy


Andy W. The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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I noticed improved handling with no loss of ride quality by installing front and rear strut braces.

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Originally posted by RogerB:
Keep your stock springs, install Konis or Bilsteins, upgrade the rear swaybar, and replace your worn bushings with poly, where possible, or at least fresh OEM rubber. It all makes a difference, even the bushings.




I agree that this is your best approach. I may add that the 95 to 97 SE rear springs are stiffer than the SVT rear springs while keeping stock ride height and may be worth considering.


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I dont know, but maybe you could get ground controls and just put them on the highest setting.


98 csvt t-red.. sho-shop intake, b&m, fidanza, spec1 clutch, Torsen, DMD,optimized Y& TB, Brullen, rear strut bar,h&r's,17" konig traffik's. "I say what I mean and I do what i say"
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Originally posted by dubkatz:
I dont know, but maybe you could get ground controls and just put them on the highest setting.




Yeah..with spring rates roughly 2.5 times higher than the stockers...

Stock SVT Springs with Konis....


T-red E0 SVT ATS 17x7.5 Comp Lites, 215/45/17 Falken 512s, Ausi Bar, Boxed subframe, Poli all around, Warmonger's Opt Y, Opt TB, AFE, DMD, NGK's, Bendix Ti, Alpine, Polk, Mobil-1 0W-40, Redline MTL.
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Originally posted by Andy W.:
Body roll is mostly based on your springs!

-Andy




Actually, that's why I recommended the upgraded swaybars. The two work together.


Function before fashion. '96 Contour SE "Toss the Contour into a corner, and it's as easy to catch as a softball thrown by a preschooler." -Edmunds, 1998
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