Previous Thread
Next Thread
Print Thread
Page 2 of 2 1 2
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
I got my parts from here:

http://www.genuine-ford-parts.com/

with a little bit more discount

Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 119
O
CEG\'er
Offline
CEG\'er
O
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 119
hi all.
thanks to TSIN03SE for posting this and helping on my post about bearings in troubleshooting.

see my post over there for my experience.

i was under the impression that control arms were much more expensive.

anyway, i got mine done without removing the control arms, but it was a major b!tch!

it sounds like to get stuff back in, people went:
control arm -> ball joint into spindle -> THEN spindle onto strut. not sure but this might be easier than
spindle on strut then drive shaft in, then onto ball joint (what a PITA).

oh, and for bearings. if it quiets down when you turn right that means the RIGHT bearing is bad. when you turn right the load of the car goes onto the left bearing and quiets down the right.

i only replaced my right bearing and i'm all nice and quiet again. and no, you don't have to replace them in pairs. it's just double the work. :-)

oh, and you don't need a special puller to push the driveshaft out of the hub. a normal three jaw gear puller will work fine.


for sale: E0 (98) Silver Frost SVT/Contour http://contour.org/carprofile/carprofile.cgi?a=display&uid=667 wanted: front SVT bumper mesh, 01/02 S4 avant, nogaro blue.
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
Happy to be of help
One caution I want to throw in is, when I got the bearings they pressed out back, both bearings were shot. It was gritty all over. My car has 91K miles. YMMV.

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 18
M
New CEG\'er
Offline
New CEG\'er
M
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 18
I did mine too without removing the control arm. It was really a pain to seperate the knuckle from the ball joint. Now I ordered new ball joints . It was bad anyway, but I tore the boot in the process. Others I have separated had a tapered ball joint so all you had to do was hit the knuckle with a really big hammer and it would pop out. Not so easy on the contour. Also, the bearing would not press out. The machine shop destroyed the bearing while trying to remove it. They had to weld a bead around the inside of the outer race to shrink it enought to get it out. What a pain!! Hope the otherside doesn't go out anytime soon!!

Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065
M
Hard-core CEG'er
Offline
Hard-core CEG'er
M
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065
You cut tthe bolts out...why not just lower the subframe slightly to get em out...


Born again on 04/09/06 FOR SALE: Moonroof glass and motor MB sunshade PM ME!
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
T
CEG\'er
OP Offline
CEG\'er
T
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 217
Two reasons not to lower the subframe:
1. I didn't want to loosen the factory subframe alignment and deal with realign it.
2. To me, it was easier to cut the bolts with sawzall than to move the subframe around.

But I think it works either way.

Page 2 of 2 1 2

Moderated by  Andy W._dup1, Auto-X Fil 

Link Copied to Clipboard
Powered by UBB.threads™ PHP Forum Software 7.7.5