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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,725
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,725 |
Originally posted by MarkO:
No. I suggested hand torquing (using a torque wrench though) the wheels. Also, I suggest not tightening to the 85ft/lbs ..... try 70.
Hand tightened them to 80 the one time and to 65 the other, no difference either way.
thanks for your suggestion
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459 |
Originally posted by MarkO:
No. I suggested hand torquing (using a torque wrench though) the wheels. Also, I suggest not tightening to the 85ft/lbs ..... try 70.
I have been torqueing mine to 95. Why, I don't know...just seemed like a good thing to do at the time. After reading this, I went out and retorqued both front wheels to 70, and today I drove it about 200 miles. It may just be coincidence, but the vibration when I brake seems to be much less noticeable. Also, there seems to be less vibration when I'm cruising.
Notice that I said "seems to be", because there have been times before today when it would cruise as smoothly as could be, but most of the time I had a slight vibration at highway speeds, and a very noticeable vibration when I applied the brakes. I'll keep watch for a few days and see what happens. So far, I'm pleased with the results.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 635
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 635 |
I don't think everyones is the same here, however getting the rotor to fit the hub is very critical. I went with Stazzie's brake over a year ago, everything was fine until emergency high speed braking. It might just have been uneven pad material transfer. Normal braking smooth. Has anyone tried replacing the slider pin bushings. (polymer/plastic) I guess I need to do a search, several years ago one of the brake gurus gave us a heads up on this. Yes lubing the slider pins the high-temp lube made just for this purpose is mandatory. also apply a dab to points of the pads backing plate that contacts the "anchor plate". (the part that holds the caplier and bolts to the hub.) Bendix supplied shims for the outer pads and called them (????? name) as if to elimate the need for that blue anti-squeak compound. I'm thinking maybe of removing the capliers again and applying this to both sides of shim. Then I'll try replacing the slider pin bushings. However I've been wanting to do this for over a year now and haven't time. And since my 1000 mile trip back in March the vibrations under hard braking diminished????? PFM as we use to say at the phone company!  1/1000th's of movement can cause vibrations!!!!! Paul 98 Mystique LS (07/97)
Paul
98 Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 36
New CEG\'er
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New CEG\'er
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 36 |
I just had my front end fixed up....new struts, springs, ball joints, stabilizer links, bearings and topped off with an alignment. Before this repair I had some shake and shimmy there as well when braking. I would brake heavy or light and it would shake but sometimes I would get no shake under "very hard" braking????wierd??!!??, but all is very nice now. So have a good look at your front end. I believe this car is fussy when it comes to the front end of the vehicle. Also.....don't use cheap rotors...they WILL warp!!
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 348
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 348 |
I had my front end checked when it was in for the bearings and they said everything looked good and tight....
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 69 |
alignment
tie rod ends (made my Camry behave better)
I'd have it looked at by a competent alignment shop.
DB
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 1,459 |
Originally posted by bentleywarren:
I have been torqueing mine to 95. Why, I don't know...just seemed like a good thing to do at the time. After reading this, I went out and retorqued both front wheels to 70, and today I drove it about 200 miles. It may just be coincidence, but the vibration when I brake seems to be much less noticeable. Also, there seems to be less vibration when I'm cruising.
Notice that I said "seems to be", because there have been times before today when it would cruise as smoothly as could be, but most of the time I had a slight vibration at highway speeds, and a very noticeable vibration when I applied the brakes. I'll keep watch for a few days and see what happens. So far, I'm pleased with the results.
Well, I may have talked to soon. I checked the Ford shop manual, and it recommended torqueing to 62. This morning I torqued all four wheels to 65, and the vibration started again. I drove about 40 miles, and it vibrated all the way. I can't believe 5 psi could make a difference, but I'll take them back to 70, and see what happens.
95 Contour Zetec, ATX (wrecked, sitting in the barn)
95 Mystique Zetec, MTX
2000 Taurus SEL 3.0L Duratec
1994 Crown Victoria LX 4.6 V8
1993 Chevy Silverado 4.3 V6
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103 |
<snippage> Quote:
Well, I may have talked to soon. I checked the Ford shop manual, and it recommended torqueing to 62. This morning I torqued all four wheels to 65, and the vibration started again. I drove about 40 miles, and it vibrated all the way. I can't believe 5 psi could make a difference, but I'll take them back to 70, and see what happens.
I was reading the forum, trolling for posts of problems that are similar to mine and this is it. I have the same problem with my '96 Mystique. It started happening only 6 months ago so I will dispute some older, similar threads in this forum where posters said "they all do that". I am not willing to live with any vibration in my front end and I have resolved to get to the bottom of this.
I think I can offer a clue here. In January I hit a pothole at 100km/h hard enough to bend a rim, crease the steel belt in my tire and break the wheelcover...all on the front passenger side tire. It was only after this that I noticed the vibration.
I have recently had a 4-wheel alignment performed + 4 new, (and balanced) Dunlop SP Sport 205-60/15 tires and a new driver's side ball joint which was clearly worn. The problem (slight judder...almost feels like a bit of a hop at 60+ mph highway speeds and a juddering under braking) is still there.
I am going to have the tie rods looked at and strongly suspect that is the problem. After all the tie rods are a major player in keeping the major rotating bits under control. I will keep this forum posted.
Thanks for sharing!
/Eric
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
'96 Mystique GS, ATX
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 103 |
Originally posted by Mystic:
<snippage>
Quote:
Well, I may have talked to soon. I checked the Ford shop manual, and it recommended torqueing to 62. This morning I torqued all four wheels to 65, and the vibration started again. I drove about 40 miles, and it vibrated all the way. I can't believe 5 psi could make a difference, but I'll take them back to 70, and see what happens.
I was reading the forum, trolling for posts of problems that are similar to mine and this is it. I have the same problem with my '96 Mystique. It started happening only 6 months ago so I will dispute some older, similar threads in this forum where posters said "they all do that". I am not willing to live with any vibration in my front end and I have resolved to get to the bottom of this.
I think I can offer a clue here. In January I hit a pothole at 100km/h hard enough to bend a rim, crease the steel belt in my tire and break the wheelcover...all on the front passenger side tire. It was only after this that I noticed the vibration.
I have recently had a 4-wheel alignment performed + 4 new, (and balanced) Dunlop SP Sport 205-60/15 tires and a new driver's side ball joint which was clearly worn. The problem (slight judder...almost feels like a bit of a hop at 60+ mph highway speeds and a juddering under braking) is still there.
I am going to have the tie rods looked at and strongly suspect that is the problem. After all the tie rods are a major player in keeping the major rotating bits under control. I will keep this forum posted.
Thanks for sharing!
/Eric
My right rear shock was broken and peeing all over the place. It's been replaced with a quality piece instead of the garbage Gabriel shock that was there.
The front end "flutter" at highway speeds has gone. It felt for all the world like it was a tie rod or something similar but I guess the shock was hopping so badly in the back that it transmitted itself to the front wheels.
I am a happy guy....and surprised. 
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
'96 Mystique GS, ATX
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