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I'm using a Turbo XS high performance single stage controller. I plan on putting on a Profec B eventually but time has been an issue lately. I know it's not the exhaust because I pulled it at the down pipe. I know it's not the intake because I pulled it just after the maf. The heads are ported to 288 cfm per cylinder on intake and 242 on exhaust. So that's not it. The rest of the motor is flat top 9:1 Diamond racing pistons, total seal classic rings with Pauter billit rods. The intercooler is rated at 700 cfm so I'm sure that's not it. It's a Spearco 2-171 core. I work part time here at Street Flight basically just writing chips. I get a little hands on work with my car only usually. I don't have AIM but I do use msn messanger.


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its more than likely your boost controller. Manual BC tend to do that. Also alot of the XS bov i have come across leak liek no ones business, its those damn washers they use for adjustment. sole reason i now only use HKS SSQV and Blitz Bov. They are the only ones on the market that don't seem to leak consistently (by which i mean never leak, and is consistent about it). Whats are your a/f levels? How much timing are you running? Have you tried bumping up the octane, therefore you can run some more timing as well as run a leaner curve? I knwo fords o2 sensors don't like it too much, but it would be worth a try. 388 is not all the 57trim has got I would love to see a 430+ whp contour...

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why are manual boost controllers more leaky than electronic ones since it's simply a differene in monitoring the boost vs. the actual mechanism of control?

are there any other electronic bc that are recommended over the profec?
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Because electronic has a stepping motor. And does not send a vaccum/boost reference to the wastegate till desired boost is reached (ie: the wastegate will stay closed until desired boost). Manuals do not do this. They slowly bleed vaccum/boost to the wastegate. therefore slowly creeping open the wastegate. I will explain in full detail later. I will make diagrams for each to illustrate what i am talking about.

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Originally posted by turbodude:
1. its more than likely your boost controller. Manual BC tend to do that.

2. Also alot of the XS bov i have come across leak liek no ones business, its those damn washers they use for adjustment. sole reason i now only use HKS SSQV and Blitz Bov.

3. Whats are your a/f levels?

4. How much timing are you running?

5. Have you tried bumping up the octane, therefore you can run some more timing as well as run a leaner curve?



1. That is a possibility for the boost to fall off but not a likely one for the power level to completely plateau.

2. Leaking boost is always a possibility but again a leak that large would be found fairly easily. Minor (i.e. hard to find pin hole) leaks would slightly slow boost generation and hamper holding peak boost but nothing considerable.

3. A/F Is "roughly" around 12 to 1. If could use some work up top as it drops to almost ~11 to 1 above 5500rpm.

4. Timing is maxed for pump gas.

5. That completely DEFEATS the point of using "pump gas"
I am sure a lot more could be rung out with race fuel of 100, 110, 120 octane...


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1. That is a possibility for the boost to fall off but not a likely one for the power level to completely plateau.

Sure it does, my dyno graphs used to plateau all the time. Full boost reached early and plateaus then falls off. Power has to plateau at some point.

A/F Is "roughly" around 12 to 1. If could use some work up top as it drops to almost ~11 to 1 above 5500rpm

12 to 1 is still kinda risky in my book for pump gas but its cool, 11 to 1 up top, power can definately be made there. I shoot for a mid to high 11 when tuning, i try to stay away from the 12's in boost.

I am sure a lot more could be rung out with race fuel of 100, 110, 120 octane...

Thats exactly my point, I am sure alot more power can be made as well. The point i was making was upon the remark of the 57trim compressor being maxed out... So i was trying to give him options to surpass that "max hp" figure. Just trying to help, would hate for someone to upgrade to a trim level that realy doesn't suit the power goal if they don't have to

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Bueller? Bueller?

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FYI,

Chris has the benchmark for 2.5, I've got the mark for 3L and highest overall on a mustang dyno.

Rick

Sorry Chris, just had to get in here with the new guy.


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That's OK Mustang dyno's don't count so it doesn't bother me.


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Hey, and I have the most with the lowest psi (~8.5psi) and totally stock engine components, along with the lowest-cost construction of the whole lot!
Where does that fit in?

Turbodude:

Thanks for the input. I was using a home-built manual boost controller to raise the boost to ~8-9psi and it was very tricky. This one uses a ball and spring but it also has a controlled leak for when the engine drops out of boost in order to vent the wastegate. I noticed some squirly stuff happening when I raised the boost much over 8psi. I am waiting until I get back from Iraq to get a better boost controller and to convert my stock manifolds back to headers. When those are done I'll dyno again and then decide which set of cams I am going to stay with.

I tuned my engine to 12:1 with a total variation across the A/F curve of 11.8:1 to 12.3:1. This was on 91 to 93 octane and it shows to be very promising. I am still running on a conservative timing curve as I can't afford to get back to SF in arizona where we can do a few actual runs and with the chip and change the timing. Better safe than sorry.

Oh yeah, I'm running a (I think) T3/TO4e 60 trim with a .83 exhaust. It spools to full boost in the 3500+ range.

Tom


Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760 356/334 wHP/TQ at 10psi on pump gas! See My Mods '05 Volvo S40 Turbo 5 AWD with 6spd, Passion Red '06 Mazda5 Touring, 5spd,MTX, Black
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