Okay, I made sure to get Mercon non-V and did a single drain & refill. It took only 3.5 quarts. The old fluid looked pretty unclean. I gather that the total amount of fluid is much larger, and that a single drain&fill only changes like half of it? Should I do a second drain&fill to get the fluid to something like new condition? Or should I, as suggested in this article mentioned by usisys12, just leave it alone for a while after refilling it once?

It ought to be part of the FAQ on transmission fluid, perhaps, to mention that the hardest part of doing it yourself can be finding a place that lets you dispose of the old fluid...