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http://www.sounddomain.com/id/deaf_pride
1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

It's not a Contour, but there are some people here that I hope could help me out

That is the list of the equipment. I have reduced the amount of alternator whine through troubleshooting, although I still have some left.

Positive and negative terminals were replaced with side post termiaals. Power and ground cables were connected via some 4 gauge copper ring terminals. Ground is about 6" long and attatches to the factory grounding point under the hood. Other ground point is in the trunk. It is a bolt where I sanded off all surrounding paint. My MM shows 12V there.

First time hooking this up... gain on amp was a little high... whine (engine off) was kinda loud. Turning engine on made things a hell of a lot worse. I took the car for a drive to a non-residential area for testing. Lowering the gain made a world of difference, but now the amp is really quiet. The gain could be turned up more as there is no distortion (minus the whine)... I got my fronts/sub gains set to where I like them, but again it would be nicer to have the highs louder.

I took the car home. After talking to my longtime mentor/guru CT, I followed his advice. I took a pair of extra RCAs, ran them from my truck's Xover to Jane's amp. There was absolutely no noise with both engines off, either engine on, or both engines on. Running this pair of RCAS from the h/u, OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE, and to the amp made no difference in comparison to her installed RCAs.

So I'm doubting it's the grounding point for the amp; I have done worse groundings with noise. It's not the RCAs because I swapped out another pair and got the noise. This leads me to the head unit ground wire....

I disconnected the ground wire on the harnesses. THE DAMNED HEAD UNIT STILL OPERATED, but with an increasing amount of whine. I found a bolt in the dash, used a screwdriver to get to bare metal, and touched a wire from that point to the h/u's ground wire. The whine decreased almost to where I could not hear it. Turning the engine on created whine, but again not as intense.

This is where I'm at now.... I ran a wire directly from my h/u to the ground terminal on my amp. It sounds ghetto but it's the best I got so far. At this very moment there is absolutely no whine with the engine off. However, there is a reduced intensity of whine with the engine off. The h/u volume goes up to 35. When the volume is at 20 you can't even hear the whine. Again the gain needs to go up anyway. But raising the gain also amplifies the whine even more.

What could you suggest? I have considered running a ground wire directly to the negative post on the battery for the h/u. I am out of ideas

Tempe

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Maybe you've got a ground loop problem with the HU's ground. Try a Ground Loop Isolator?

I'd also ground the HU a a good metal spot in the dash as opposed to the amp's ground terminal (in the trunk I'm assuming?).

Good luck,
-Colin


1999 Ford Contour SVT #900/2760 (SOLD) 2005 Mazda 6s 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4
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BTW, that Lanzar rack amp is the same one I've got installed in my CSVT (fronts to custom Vifa components and rears bridged to a Lambda PB12-LE). I'll eventually bi-amp the components (going active with an Audiocontrol 2XS) and use another Lanzar rack amp to drive the sub. Very nice amp for the $79 I paid for it.


1999 Ford Contour SVT #900/2760 (SOLD) 2005 Mazda 6s 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege 1998 Ford Ranger 4x4
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Originally posted by cthomp21:
I'd also ground the HU a a good metal spot in the dash as opposed to the amp's ground terminal (in the trunk I'm assuming?).




Good idea, but...

Originally posted by Tempe:
I disconnected the ground wire on the harnesses. THE DAMNED HEAD UNIT STILL OPERATED, but with an increasing amount of whine. I found a bolt in the dash, used a screwdriver to get to bare metal, and touched a wire from that point to the h/u's ground wire. The whine decreased almost to where I could not hear it. Turning the engine on created whine, but again not as intense.




Grounding to the amp results in less whine. I always thought that those isolators didn't really do anything and that having a solid ground would eliminate alternator whine. This ground is super-solid. Oh well...

You are a half-hour south of me! I'm in North Aurora nowadays

Tempe

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Originally posted by cthomp21:
Very nice amp for the $79 I paid for it.




I paid $55 shipped for that amp. The guy even threw a few old 168 pin PC133 ram sticks in for me too

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it sounds like the h/u is grounding out through it's chassis somehow. i'd completely pull the h/u from the dash and try it that way. also, you may want to visually check all wiring coming off the h/u for a errant ground.

my $.02!


02 Mustang GT... Tuned by Nelsons. Low 12's, anyone? .....______ ___|______\_____ |/-\_________/-\_| .\_/...............\_/
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That's what some people are saying. Just some background the harness for the Kenwood is brand new. I had to order a replacement cuz the original was all crappy. I got the h/u used. The harness that goes into the stock wiring is also new. How could it ground out?

Someone on CAF said that might be happening. Remember how my h/u worked with the ground disconnected. He said it might be grounding through the antenna........

HOULY CRAP!!!!!! i THINK I KNOW WHAT'S WRONG!!!

I got one of those GM to normal antenna adaptors. This cable is shoved inside my dash cuz GM left no damned room in there for anything. I could yank the one panel off the dash, pull the plug out so its not touching anything, and then I'll get back to you.

Tempe

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That does not fix it. Purpously touching the adaptor to metal does nothing. However, removing the antenna plug does eliminate some static that occurs with engine off. The whine remains at full volume.

Tempe

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just for giggles, see how it sounds with the h/u pulled from the dash.


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Either way.. pullin RCAs out removes all hum..

Tempe

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