Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Zetec Maintenance water pump replace?

My stocker had a metal impellar.

not to hijack, but whilst you're talking about them....

should I take mine out to inspect it or can I just turn it to tell if it's gone? It's not seeping anything thru the weep hole, but everything is off and don't feel like 473.xx dollars later.

well.. go replace it if evrything is off.. and get a lifetime warrenty on the part..

I paid $522 for timing belt, tensioner, water pump,
and all the other goodies involved, including labor.
Had the work done in a private shop a few months ago.

$500 isn't a bad deal. Price included FORD water punp
(claimed to be $125 retail). Shop charges labor
strictly by the flat-rate book.
I can dig out the invoice for anybody interested.
gary_jabo ----- Atlanta

I like to have money though while I'm alive. Though I'm not really one to talk.

To check it, if it drips from the black plastic casing, that conseals the timing belt, then its the weap hole drippin, plus it make a little wuup wuup wuup noise..
like a little bird..



Replacing:

Its a pain in the ass...
Get a straight edge, and hold it across your cam cogs, and use whiteout to make marks across it, and on the 3 teeth that line up before you remove the timing belt, if you do it yourself.

It took me about 4 1/2 hours to change serp., timing, and water pump. Everything is fine, its not retarded or anything (the timing that is).

My biggest 2 struggles where the crank pully removal and putting the hose back on the pump..


Oh, and scraping the old gasket off the waterpump wasnt fun..

But I suggest taking it to a shop if you feel you really cant do it. I saved about 200 - 250.

150 for pump w/ lifetime warrenty.
20 for T belt
and 15 ? for the serp.

I dunno exact prices, but around there.

When you disassemble everything, lay the parts on a workbench in the order you take them off, and put the bolts for individual parts in baggies, to keep them seperated, with the coresponding part they attatch.


To get the crank bolt off, I put a socket on it, with a socket wrench and cheater bar, clicked it till it was on the frame, and flipped the starter for like .2 sec till it broke loose. Took 2 tries..

Make sure you disable fuel or spark though.. bad idea if the engine cranks up.. lol

Just sharing some info from my experience..

Or for us MTX'ers


Clicky

Breaker bar needed for sure!

do you have to replace the crank pully when doing this job or only if it's damaged ?