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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,506
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,506 |
Originally posted by ScottK:
get the SVT stocker. It's a sachs with a very good friction material and pressure plate - plus it's only 280 shipped from Bill Jenkins for the kit!
I should point out....For future refrence, the SVT Ford OE clutch is made by LUK not Sachs...I worked with a wholesale distributor for a year (SSF Imported Autoparts in South San Francisco, CA) and I did my research on both and in the process found out the SVT was made by LUK.
I know its not useful info, but I did not want any wrong info to get around.
Lupe
3.0 SVT hybrid...all the fixens...Track/Race ready very soon!!!!!! 20,000 + miles
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 458
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 458 |
i have a friend who works at ford and as you know ford sells clutch disk, p.p. and bearing separate. i got the price for the disk and p.p. and it was like 290 dollors when to advance auto and told them to price match for the performance clutch they had. it was like 4bills and they went down to 300. the clutch is a biotch to push down. but i grabs nice. no shudder and no problems. its made by perfection and its called the "zoom" clutch. i dunno 300 but and a 60k waranty for the "upgrade" clutch they sell. not bad to me.
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 9,602 |
Originally posted by dallasb84:
i have a friend who works at ford and as you know ford sells clutch disk, p.p. and bearing separate. i got the price for the disk and p.p. and it was like 290 dollors when to advance auto and told them to price match for the performance clutch they had. it was like 4bills and they went down to 300. the clutch is a biotch to push down. but i grabs nice. no shudder and no problems. its made by perfection and its called the "zoom" clutch. i dunno 300 but and a 60k waranty for the "upgrade" clutch they sell. not bad to me.
Too bad the Zoom clutch uses a stock (NOT SVT) PP.
Also I bet the friction material is not on par with the SVT unit either. It may say performance but it's not much more then a glorified stock replacement.
You have to understand any aftermarket part is made based off the "standard" parts. Not SVT specs!
"Your friend" would have been better off going with the SVT parts with the sole exception of the warranty you stated. However if the clutch never fails then there is no exception and if it does fail you are still stuck paying or doing all the work again.
2000 SVT #674
13.47 @ 102 - All Motor!
It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 458
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 458 |
demon yeah i agree that the clutch i bought might be a glorified non svt part but the i wish i had pictures of the one i got. the pressure plate didnt look the same at all and from what i know about clutches. i could be wrong and this is an opinion but the one i got was alot more beefier than my svt clutch. it was bigger and its springs (part where the throw out bearing pushes on) the apexes or whatever you call it were in different places. i was skeptical too but i didnt see any negative qualities with the clutch. no chattering harder feel and not to focus on center force but i had a centerforce II on my 300zx and that clutch was horrid i would never recomend that to anyone. it slipped and lasted maybe a whole 5 months before it had to get changed. sent it back to them and they said they would give me 15% off on a new one same part number and i was like screw that. if you want a PERFORMANCE CLUTCH go with the spec. alot of people have beef with it alot dont and it is a performance clutch by definition. but for daily driving and a little more grab im happy with the one i got. I WILL BE UPGRADING TO A SPEC WITH A FLYWHEEL. prices i saw on gb are to die for. but will wait for my turbo before i do this.
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 65
CEG\'er
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OP
CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 65 |
Any of you have hints or tips regarding installing a new clutch in the driveway? I looked it up in a Chilton's manual and it appeared to be quite an ordeal. What exactly needs to be removed? The Chiltons mentioned some stuff about removing air conditioning components etc. Is it best to drop the trans or to raise it out of hte car? What special tools are required? COuld a shadetree mechanic pull it off if he had enough time and a high enough morale to keep himself together during the process? Where do you support the engine when you unbolt the trans? Wheres the best place to place jackstands and what is the minimum heihgt at which to set them for this install? ANy of these answers and more would be appreciated. I REALLY DONT WANT TO SPEND LOTS OF MONEY ON A CLUTCH INSTALL! I love working on cars, I just don't want to get myself into soemthing I can't get out of. HAving my drivetrain in shambles would not be a good situation to be stuck in! Lastly, is there anybody out htere that has done seomthign like this before and would be willing to help out for a lunch or two and a few bucks(less than 900 of them) Thanks in advance for any help you all might provide.
"Redline is just a suggestion... Sometimes isa necessary to missa use the car..." -Enzo Ferrari
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,065 |
Read that chiltons man. Get an engine hoist. Read the damn chiltons. MORE!
BTW way to be cheap cheap. 
Do the labor, spend some nice $$ on the Clutch and flywheel tho.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,325
Hard-core CEG\'er
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Hard-core CEG\'er
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,325 |
Originally posted by 99SVT666:
Any of you have hints or tips regarding installing a new clutch in the driveway? I looked it up in a Chilton's manual and it appeared to be quite an ordeal. What exactly needs to be removed? The Chiltons mentioned some stuff about removing air conditioning components etc. Is it best to drop the trans or to raise it out of hte car? What special tools are required? COuld a shadetree mechanic pull it off if he had enough time and a high enough morale to keep himself together during the process? Where do you support the engine when you unbolt the trans? Wheres the best place to place jackstands and what is the minimum heihgt at which to set them for this install? ANy of these answers and more would be appreciated. I REALLY DONT WANT TO SPEND LOTS OF MONEY ON A CLUTCH INSTALL! I love working on cars, I just don't want to get myself into soemthing I can't get out of. HAving my drivetrain in shambles would not be a good situation to be stuck in! Lastly, is there anybody out htere that has done seomthign like this before and would be willing to help out for a lunch or two and a few bucks(less than 900 of them) Thanks in advance for any help you all might provide.
It's a very lot of work IMHO - check here for a boring blog of my clutch change:
My clutch change
3 of us here in SD have done trannies out the bottom, engine intact and it's not that bad. Get the service CD from todras and follow it step by step till everythings done 
I know one guy here did the whole thing in his garage, out the bottom, in only seven hours!
97 Contour SE MTX
K&N 3530, UR UDP, 19# Injectors, mystery mod, FMS wires, Fordchip.com chip, SVT: TB, Flywheel, clutch, exhaust
04 Grand Caravan SXT
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