Contour Enthusiasts Group Archives Forums Modifications Transaxle uh oh.......

Have used search.....didn't find anything exactly like it....
About three weeks ago my 1998 Mystique w/ Duratec and ATX (almost 80k) started shifting really really really hard right after I picked it up from the dealer after getting radiator service, power steering flush, etc. It started shifting hard after I had been driving at high at about 60-70mph for about an hour.
I took it back to the dealer the next morning. They couldn't get it to shift hard and there was no code.I went ahead and had them replace the TSS because I was planning on doing that anyway.
All was well for the next few weeks until this morning when I was taking a long trip. After driving for about an hour it started shifting very hard ALL the time. I stopped for gas and when I restarted it, it was smooth again. Then after an hour or so it got rough. Shut it off again.....it was smooth and then it got rough after an hour or so. Then my CEL came on. I read the code and it was a TC P1744.
None of the threads that I found when I searched that code mentioned intermittent hard shifting. I did not have an O/D light, just a CEL. I change the fluid regularly (at least once a year) and the fluid is still fairly new. I'm afraid I'm going to have to replace the whole friggin thing..... ......any input or experiences would be greatly appreciated.......

I posted the fix for 1744 last year. Search transaxle for code 1744 and set the date range for All.

You need a new torque converter and updated valve body. Do not drive the car until you fix it because you are boiling your ATF and the next step is a new tranny.

jeff

here it is (I don't know how to do a link) do the search anyway, lots of good info)

A CD4E saved!
After a lot of research and help from the CEG regulars I have fixed my TC slip problem. It seems that the CD4E has a design flaw and that causes poor oil pressure to the TC. The TC bypass valve (in the valve body) is acted upon by the TCC solenoid and directs line pressure to the TC for lock up. The bypass valve gets worn out over time and starts to bind. The two possible outcomes from a worn (binding) bypass valve are;

High converter pressure causing converters to actually burst.
Or
Low converter pressure (and cooler flow) causing slip and heat.

The low converter pressure causes the clutch disks in the TC (used for luck up mode) to slip generating extreme heat when cruising. The PCM detects the slip and puts the transmission in �??bang shift�?� mode. If things get bad enough (if you ignore it and keep driving) the fluid in the TC will supper heat (the check engine or OD light will come on).

All CD4Es should have a valve body modification and new (updated) valves and accumulator pistons installed. If you do this early enough, you can prevent TC failure. The VB can be replaced with the engine and tranny still in the car. The TC requires engine or tranny removal.

Installing an external cooler and or filter is a good idea but will not prevent or delay the bypass valve failure. A new updated valve design is the only cure.

My TC was too far gone (from diving with low pressure) and had to be replaced. I did it myself in the driveway (it took about two days. The VB took about four hours because the cooling system had to be drained (V6).

I paid $275 for a rebuilt and updated VB and $100 for the rebuilt TC. I�??m very happy with the results and am going to give my air tools a few extra drops of oil for all the hard work they did.

jeff


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have you fixed your ford lately?

Web site is:


www.bulkpart.com


Just tried it, it works!

bob

Thanks Bob. By the way that link takes me to Matco Distributing so I recon they may have merged. I have an old link to a valve body assembly with upgraded parts in my favorites from bulkparts.com that isn't working any more.

bulkparts.com/MM007.ASP?pageno=378

MysticFreak, you may want to call Matco on the phone to see if they have any valve body assemblies available - if you want to go that route.