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Installed Bosch +4s back when they came out years ago and added a set of Magnacore wires. Never gave me trouble. Wife's Tour went through OEM wires one by one. I installed a set of regular Bosch wires and the problems went away. I changed plugs on both cars mainly because I wanted to remove them while they can still be removed. After awhile they sieze to the head. They may last 100,000 miles under the right conditions but I wanted better performance and a coating of anti-sieze on the threads.

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Only ones I priced/bought were the Autolites. I paid over $70, but some have found sets for under $50 because they searched well.


Must be that jumbly-wumbly thing happening again.
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I've found it prudent to swap out plugs every 30K on the 'Tour. OK, it's a little aggressive, but I've learned to be that way with my cars an it hasn't failed me yet.

Basic maintenance can do wonders to a car that's not performing up to par.


JaTo e-Tough Guy Missouri City, TX 99 Contour SVT #143/2760 00 Corvette Coupe
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I ran my first set of plugs 60,000 miles and the second set for 75,000 miles. Both times, I never could tell ANY difference in performance or gas mileage when the plugs were replaced. I'm going to try to get 100,000 miles out of this last set, if I even keep the car that long.


-Mark- '99 Mystique LS, totally original (including the original water pump and the premium stereo)! Bought new in December 1998 for $21,000. 208,000 miles
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Originally posted by Shawn95GTRag:

It wasn't so much that I had a problem changing the plugs... It was just that I couldn't get the spark plug wires off the plugs. I bought a spark plug wire tool for $5 that made getting the wires off the back 3 cylinders possible.





I'm planning on changing my plugs and wires in a week or two. What special tool are you talking about?



1999 Cabernet Red Contour SE Sport V6 24V ATX Southern California 1995 White Ford Explorer XLT
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What dou you guys think about running a colder plug, like the NGK-TR55's?? my buddy has a GTP and runs them and noticed a difference. Also what about the Ford Racing wires? are they alright?? what is the stock plug gap anyways? thanks. Alsoi know this is a little off topic but where the heck can i find a B&M Shifter for a decent price?


Brullen "Quiet" Cat-back, K&N Drop In, B&M Short Throw Shifter, Autolite Double Platinums, Autolite Pro Series Wires. ---More to come
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Originally posted by AdamSVT:
What dou you guys think about running a colder plug, like the NGK-TR55's?? my buddy has a GTP and runs them and noticed a difference. Also what about the Ford Racing wires? are they alright?? what is the stock plug gap anyways? thanks. Alsoi know this is a little off topic but where the heck can i find a B&M Shifter for a decent price?



I would not run a colder plug.

However the plug you mentioned is the stock heat range. A step colder in NGK is TR6

Step colder in Motorcraft is: AWSF22C, AWSF22FS, AWSF22PP, AGSF22PPM


I still would not recommend a colder plug for a NA car. Some of the hybrids with CR over 11 and aggressive timing could likely make use of them. Especially if less then optimal octane fuel is not available.

I found my 2.5L at ~10.3CR and ridiculous advance would not detonate on either heat range plug - stock 3 or colder 2. The stock heat range plugs (AGSF32PPM) did seem to give a tick better gas mileage though so I stuck with them for better efficiency.


I also would not run FMS wires. Hit or miss.

Stock wires are good but expensive for stock.

Magnecor are the best but again very pricey.

Folks have reported good luck with Autolite Professional wires as well. They also are well priced.


2000 SVT #674 13.47 @ 102 - All Motor! It was not broke; Yet I fixed it anyway.
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