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Ok first of all I'm not talking about my car. And no I'm not thinking of pulling mine out.  I work at the airport here in Tampa and we use tractors to pull carts around with. They have a 1984 Ford 300ci straight six in them. Well I have 2 of them that keep overheating. I thought it might be the thermostats so I went to change one of them and it didnt have one. The other one was running 190 degree t-stat but the manual calls for a 160 degree. I put the 190 in today. I didnt notice at the time but the parts store sent me that one instead of a 160. I've tested the fluid in both and its good. I've replaced both radiator caps and it didn't solve it. I dont think its the pump. I've had a older style pump go out before and it sounds like a box of rocks. Both radiator hoses are getting hot so I know I have good flow. I havent seen any leaks or coolant in oil and the fluid level in the radiator seems to be the same. Other than whats ended up on the ground because we don't use overflow bottles. I don't think the system is clogged because these units have just been referbished and have new radiators in them. So basically what I am asking is the cause of my problem not running a t-stat? And because I have a too high of a t-stat? I'm thinking the one without should have one but the one with the high one has me wondering. If it has 190 degree t-stat in it should it stop at 190? I know 190 is the standard for today but I'm not sure about the older engines. Both engines go up to about 240.
Former owner: 1999 Contour SE Sport
Current: 2000 Eclipse GT
There are three ways to do things: the right way, the wrong way, and the Max Power way!
Isn't that just the wrong way?
Yeah, but faster!
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If you are only having problmes after the refurbs, I'd look into that .....
I'm not sure what kind of emission controls, if any, are on those tractors but running without a t/stat in our cars would mean extended warm up times and higher emissions, lower mileage.
You might just have a restricted flow thru the new rads which is causing the overheating. All else being good, running without a t/stat wont cause you to overheat.
Bless our servicemen & women overseas.
L.Cpl Ian Malone, 1st Battalion Irish Guards, R.I.P.
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Originally posted by MarkO:
running without a t/stat wont cause you to overheat.
People used to run without one all the time, thinking it would make the engine run cooler. In some cooling systems, though, the water ran through the radiator too fast to get rid of the heat it picked up. It would lead to overheating.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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Originally posted by CRZYDRVR:
Originally posted by MarkO:
running without a t/stat wont cause you to overheat.
People used to run without one all the time, thinking it would make the engine run cooler. In some cooling systems, though, the water ran through the radiator too fast to get rid of the heat it picked up. It would lead to overheating.
How could the water run through 'too fast' ?
Bless our servicemen & women overseas.
L.Cpl Ian Malone, 1st Battalion Irish Guards, R.I.P.
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I have heard it several times from a few older mechanics I know, just thought I would throw it in here. They said the water flows fast enough to not be able transfer the heat to the cores in the radiator and then go back into the motor hotter than it should. They would reinstall a thermostat and no more overheating problems.
They were talking about older engines, Flatheads, and Y blocks. I figured it couldnt hurt to try installing a thermostat, since one should be there anyway.
-Ken V.
1998.5 SE Praire Tan Zetec ATX
psycho_bass@hotmail.com
Roush springs Roush rear sway bar BAT struts 17" Millie Miglia HT3 and a ton of subtle asthetic mods
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The coolant must be in contact with the inside radiator surfaces in order for heat to be transferred through the radiator walls. If the fluid is moving too fast, the thermal energy does not have enough time to transfer enough heat from the coolant through the radiator to the surrounding air.
A non-contact IR thermometer can be used to check radiator inlet and outlet temperatures. About $50 at Sears.
FWIW, make certain that the fans are working.
Steve
98 Contour SE Sport 2.5 Duratec ATX The wifey's car
89 Taurus SHO - 246K miles
94 SHO ATX - 190K
1997 F-150 5.4L ATX - The Workhorse 150K.
ANY THREAD WITH "OMG" or "WTF" ETC IN THE TITLE WILL BE IGNORED!
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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
The coolant must be in contact with the inside radiator surfaces in order for heat to be transferred through the radiator walls. If the fluid is moving too fast, the thermal energy does not have enough time to transfer enough heat from the coolant through the radiator to the surrounding air.
A non-contact IR thermometer can be used to check radiator inlet and outlet temperatures. About $50 at Sears.
FWIW, make certain that the fans are working.
Steve
That was my thought as well. Yes the fans are working. We don't use electric fans.
But what about the one with the 190 t-stat? The book says it should have a 160 in there. Could it be that 190 is already to hot and then the engine temp just takes off after that? Or should it stay at 190?
Former owner: 1999 Contour SE Sport
Current: 2000 Eclipse GT
There are three ways to do things: the right way, the wrong way, and the Max Power way!
Isn't that just the wrong way?
Yeah, but faster!
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Originally posted by projectSHO89:
The coolant must be in contact with the inside radiator surfaces in order for heat to be transferred through the radiator walls. If the fluid is moving too fast, the thermal energy does not have enough time to transfer enough heat from the coolant through the radiator to the surrounding air.
I accept your point but I'm still not seeing how this is related to the presence or not of a t-stat. If the coolant is not in contact long enough with the rad surfaces, this is a function of the water pump moving the coolant too fast, unless the coolant moves slower in the circuit created by the opening of a t-stat.
I may be TOTALLY off base here and if so, I look forward to being corrected ! 
Bless our servicemen & women overseas.
L.Cpl Ian Malone, 1st Battalion Irish Guards, R.I.P.
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I'm no guru but use the overflow bottles, I'm thinking air pockets?
Paul
Paul
98 Mystique LS 2ea (07/97)(08/98)
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It's true, the thermostat body at least is required to restrict flow otherwise the cooling system doesn't work. I tried it in my racecar to develop the ideal restriction, and found the best thing is to leave the thermostat in place. What you want for good cooling is a swirling of fluid ( turbulent flow ) against the cylinder wall and again through the rad. If you let the fluid flow too fast then the flow straightens into laminar - meaning the cool fluid just shoots through the middle of the flow paths without touching the hot sides.
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