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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262
Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
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Zippy Zetec on his last legs.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,262 |
Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Funny, I remember telling you that on my 2.5L I ran nothing but 20w-50 in AZ in the summer and 10-w40 in the winter and you thought that was too thick. I still run 10-40 in texas right now, or did when I left 
Why the change of heart from 0w-30?
I always felt the thicker oil was better protection against spun bearings and was worth the trade-off of any frictional losses.
A 20 weight IS too thick at start up. 
Even a 10 weight has lower start up flow ability.
I never ran 0W30. I ran 5W30 Mobil 1.
Mobil 1 does not make a 5W40.
holy crap! 20W-50!!thats like molasses man!!!!  
Regards, Cole.
Relegating to troll status sometime this week.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,810 |
Do tell. I have experience in hot climates with oil and I will tell you that 20w-50 proved to be a very good oil for deep summer. The oil in the pan at startup is proably 85-90 degrees already when you get up in the morning!
10w-40 for the rest of the year is good. I can only tell you this, I haven't spun a bearing and I've tore down three motors. The factory bearings looked like new using this oil combination based upon the temperatures.
In texas I run 10w-40 and 5w-30 for summer and winter respectively.
Tom
*edit*
- those temps are at first startup, after everything is up to operating temp it is a nightmare.
- Torn down 3 duratec motors that used that combo, 1 2.5L and 2 3L's.
Last edited by warmonger; 06/04/04 05:59 AM.
Former owner of '99 CSVT - Silver #222/2760
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,676
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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hmmmm, tom, I guess I'll follow what you do then, 10W-40 for summers and 5W-30 for winters. . .I only change my oil twice a year anyways, so that should keep things simple. . .
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 114
CEG\'er
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CEG\'er
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 114 |
Twice a year??
Arent you suppost to do it every 3 months or 2,500 - 3,000??
Optimal.. that is..
Thats what I thought..
96 GL ATX
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197
I have no life
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I have no life
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 21,197 |
Originally posted by LilTour:
Twice a year??
Arent you suppost to do it every 3 months or 2,500 - 3,000??
Optimal.. that is..
Thats what I thought..
Not on synthetic.
-'96 SE MTX 3L
-'98 SVT 1,173 of 6,535
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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And with the miles I put on her, I only need to twice a year. . .I MAYBE put on 5k miles a year. . .but todras is right, with synthetic and the new clevite bearings+escape oilpan/windage tray/pickup tube I should be ok changing that often. . .
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 2,127
Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
Joined: May 2000
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Originally posted by DemonSVT:
Originally posted by warmonger:
Funny, I remember telling you that on my 2.5L I ran nothing but 20w-50 in AZ in the summer and 10-w40 in the winter and you thought that was too thick. I still run 10-40 in texas right now, or did when I left
Why the change of heart from 0w-30?
I always felt the thicker oil was better protection against spun bearings and was worth the trade-off of any frictional losses.
A 20 weight IS too thick at start up.
Even a 10 weight has lower start up flow ability.
I never ran 0W30. I ran 5W30 Mobil 1.
Mobil 1 does not make a 5W40.
Whoo, I get to bust DemonSVT
Actually Mobil DOES make a 5W40, but you had look at a truck stop until recently. Mobil makes a synthetic 5W40 called Delvac 1 and it is also rated for passenger car service.
Peep Here: Delvac 5W40 Notice it is rated for SJ and SL (That's spark ignition for you oil noob's) The "C" ratings are for compression ignition engines, IE diesels.
You can now get the same oil, with a picture of an SUV on the bottle:
Mobil 1 Truck and SUV 5W40
If you look at the datasheets for both, the spccs are identical. The only thing not listed on the SUV branded oil are the special engine builder and european (ACEA) specifications.
I think some guys over at BobIsTheOilGuy.com sacrificed some virgin oil to the oil analysis gods and determined the two are the same oil.
So you could get for a long time if you looked, and now it's easier to find Mobil 1 5W40.
FWIW,
TB
"Seems like our society is more interested in turning each successive generation into cookie-cutter wankers than anything else." -- Jato 8/24/2004
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Hard-core CEG'er
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Hard-core CEG'er
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I decided on Amsoil 10W-30 for year around use. And I realize I'm bringing this dead thread back to life, but I was reading over it and realized there wasn't much of a conclusion from my end. . .
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 652
Veteran CEG\'er
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Veteran CEG\'er
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 652 |
Oil viscosity you decide to run all depends on how tight you run your bearing clearances. In many cases, 20w-50 isn't too thick to run on a rebuilt Duratech if your clearances are set a bit looser than stock. I think stock Contours run pretty tight from the factory, so I personally, only use 10w-40 at thickest in the summer in mine. But I wouldn't run 20w-50 on a motor that has .0005 to .0015 bearing clearance though. It might chance starving the bearings for the first 10 seconds of cold start. Maybe not significant time, but it is extra wear nevertheless
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