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What's the part # for the Taylor wires, for the V-6, in blue, from Summit (unless you got them somewhere else)?

Thanks.


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Quote:
Originally posted by gheller-iii:
What's the part # for the Taylor wires, for the V-6, in blue, from Summit (unless you got them somewhere else)?

Thanks.

i would like to know also!
smile


Anthony
98 black Csvt #630 of 6535
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Quote:
Originally posted by gheller-iii:
What's the part # for the Taylor wires, for the V-6, in blue, from Summit (unless you got them somewhere else)?

Thanks.


You can do a search on Summit's web site for Taylor part # TAY-072607. They cost me $43.99!


GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!

Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
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Hey gheller-iii,
If you are going to our meet at Summit and are planning on buying your Taylors while you are there, I suggest you ordor them first to make sure they are instock, then just pick them up when you are there.


GOD BLESS AMERICA!!!

Ted
tdavidk76@hotmail.com
'95 SE • DOB-4/20/95 • every option • Champagne • Duratec • MTX.
Mods: Taylor wires • Bosch +4 • Eibach/Sachs Super Gas (half done) • rear BAT urethane bushings • SVT air box (thanx Dom!) • fogs w/parks • 885 50w fog bulbs • Ray's THF • rear dome • lighted moonroof switch(thanx again Dom!) • tranny cocktail • minor stereo mods.
Yet to install: Front Eibach/Sachs • Front BAT urethane swaybar bushings.
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Quote:
Originally posted by todras:
I saw a Tour with Ford Motorsport plug wires at SZ. I wonder how much they are? They were even blue.


Todras,
That was KoolAid's car. I installed them for him and they are in the $40 range. BAT Sells them.


1998 SVT Contour E1, Black
2001 Honda SuperHawk VTR1000F
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I was told that you need to replace the upper manifold to replace the rear plugs and wires. Is that true? It didn't look like it and I don't want to have to pay for a new gasket and the extra labor. Thanks!


98 Black E0 #946 of 6535
Koni struts & Eibach springs
24mm Aussiebar
Pro Flow 75mm MAFS calibrated to KKM filter
Wilwood Brake Kit with cross-drilled rotors
Clutchmaster's Stage 1 Clutch & Fidanza Flywheel
Custom Dual Exhaust with an Xpipe
MSDS Headers
Custom Cold Air Intake with KKM filter
Dyno'd at 177 hp and 156 ft-lbs
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Quote:
Originally posted by NYKnicksSVT:
I was told that you need to replace the upper manifold to replace the rear plugs and wires. Is that true? It didn't look like it and I don't want to have to pay for a new gasket and the extra labor. Thanks!


Total Bullsh!t. Who ever told you that needs a green lougie(sp?) (which I can supply seeing as a I have a cold right now) spat right in his eye. F**ken irratates me when people make up frogsh!t stories about mods/instals. e.g. 10 hours to lower a Contique and new upper manifold to change plugs!
I am not having a go at you, just the person who outright lied to you. ford Technician/Service Manager perhaps?
anyhow, I've done my wire and plugs. It took about an hour to do. For the tricky part all you have to do is unbolt the coil pack off the rear bank to access the rear plugs. And on the fronts you have to unclip the electric connector to the secondries controller and unbolt it from the cam cover also.
Other than that, the only special tool you need is a long extension, about 6". I used a 3/8" drive socket kit to do the spark plug change. Plus make sure you use antiseize on the plug threads. wink


Regards,
Anastazi
Father of the Aussie Bar
anastazi.sarigiannis@aam.com

"Computer games don't affect kids. I mean if Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all run around in a darkened room, munching pills and listening to repetitive music."
-----------------------------------

2000 Silver Frost SVT #1126 of 2150
8" AFE/"Big-Mouth" Intake, Modified BAT Pipe, IAT Mod - A'PEXi S-AFC, Superchip, No Secondaries, Cobra/CSVT Hybrid MAF, Magnaflow True Duals, MYSTERY Mod, Autolite AWSF22FS's and FMS Wires, ES MM Inserts, Cross Drilled/Slotted Rotors w/ Greenstuffs, APR DTM Spoiler, Escort Cossie Vents, NACA Duct, Mirko Splitter, Koni's & H&R Springs, 24mm "Aussie" Sway Bar, 18" Enkei RS-5, 225/40R18 KDW-2's.
Pioneer DEH-P7000R, TS-6975's, TS-6855's, MTX BE104, MTX Blue Thunder PRO502
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Quote:
Originally posted by NYKnicksSVT:
I was told that you need to replace the upper manifold to replace the rear plugs and wires. Is that true? It didn't look like it and I don't want to have to pay for a new gasket and the extra labor. Thanks!


No way do you have remove anything to get to the rear plugs (apart from the plug wires). It's a very simple operation with a ratchet, plug socket and extensions (maybe a universal, but I've never needed one).


JaTo
Overland Park, KS
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It's also in the FAQ .


-Louis
1998 Black E0 #3826, lightly modded
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Thanks! I'll check the FAQ and might try it myself. It's nice to know that people who work on cars are genuine, honest, and won't rip you off. :p


98 Black E0 #946 of 6535
Koni struts & Eibach springs
24mm Aussiebar
Pro Flow 75mm MAFS calibrated to KKM filter
Wilwood Brake Kit with cross-drilled rotors
Clutchmaster's Stage 1 Clutch & Fidanza Flywheel
Custom Dual Exhaust with an Xpipe
MSDS Headers
Custom Cold Air Intake with KKM filter
Dyno'd at 177 hp and 156 ft-lbs
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